Discovering El Paso: Concordia Cemetery – El Paso’s “Boot Hill”

Why would you want to spend your day roaming around an old, arid West Texas cemetery? At El Paso’s Concordia Cemetery, it’s all about the history.

Visiting a cemetery on vacation isn’t for everyone: I get that. It’s not something I do with any regularity myself, but when a town has cemetery like El Paso’s Concordia Cemetery and I have a few hours in my schedule, I often yield to my inner history buff.

Every Grave Holds a Story

From the perspective of one seeking to connect with West Texas history, Concordia Cemetery – known as El Paso’s “Boot Hill” – is the mother-load.

The cemetery’s fifty-two acres are the final resting places for over sixty-thousand Texans, including Buffalo Soldiers, gunslingers, Texas Rangers, and a handful of certified Old West outlaws. Concordia was designated a Texas State Historical Cemetery in 2006, and Winner of True West Magazine’s “Best Historic Cemetery” in 2010, 2013 and 2018.

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Buffalo Soldiers Monument

If you don’t stop at Concordia Cemetery for anything else, stop for this.

Just inside the main gate of Concordia Cemetery, you will find a beautiful monument of bronze plaques, granite memorial markers, and native stone dedicated to Buffalo Soldiers – war veterans from four regiments of African American soldiers who served on the frontier after the end of the Civil War.

The remains of forty-some Buffalo Soldiers are buried at Concordia, and the Buffalo Soldier Memorial commemorates both their military service and their contribution to the history of Texas.

It is believed that the name “Buffalo Soldier” began with the Cheyenne warriors in 1867. The Black Soldiers were ferocious and courageous in battle, even when outnumbered. Out of Respect, the Cheyenne referred to these hard-fighting Black men as “Buffalo Soldiers” – reportedly because their hair resembled that of the revered Bison. Because the Buffalo was a sacred animal to the Indians, the calvarymen accepted the title with great pride. The name became a highly respected American Legacy.

– Inscription on the Buffalo Soldiers Memorial, Concordia Cemetery, El Paso, Texas

I found this memorial inscription heartrending.

By my skill the West was tamed but today few know my name. From the plantations of Southern America we came to stake the plains of Texas.

The muddy waters of the Rio Grande we built forts and staked our claims under the command of Grierson and Hatch, we spilled our blood in pursuit of outlaws and indians to catch the 59th minute of the final hour for the honor of it.

We towered the Souix, Cheyenne, Comanche, and Apache bet their life against the Blacks in blue. And we in dress blues at reveille, boots and saddles and the Yellow Rose of Texas made us all that we could be.

After the battle, we became the eyes and ears of the pioneers from slavery to soldiering that took hundreds of years. They called our homes ghettos, but our trials are lauded by sonneteers – the Blacks in Blue, all volunteers. By many names I am called: Negro, Boy, Colored, and Soldier all.

In defense of freedom, we forsook all to heed the shouts of the wall. A hundred years ago and many fallen comrades we pursued Santana in Blue we were clad for the honor of it. And the lives we lost, we were sad. Darker the blue, and the Buffalo Soldiers, too.

We did what we had to do, for God and country. We are Americans, too.

– Inscription on the Buffalo Soldiers Memorial, Concordia Cemetery, El Paso, Texas

Beyond the Buffalo Soldier Memorial, much of the remaining cemetery landscape stands in bleak contrast. There are no flowing gardens or lush green lawns: just acre after acre after acre of regal concrete memorials, crumbling stone markers, and lonely, weatherbeaten wooden crosses.

While official literature suggests that at least sixty-thousand are interred in Concordia, nobody is really sure how many people lay buried beneath sandstone or wooden markers long decayed by the relentless dust storms, beating hot sun, and droughts of West Texas.

Everyone has a Story

This solitary marker called out to me.

What brought you joy, Antonio? How did you live? When did you die? Clearly, someone loves you. In my mind’s eye, I see a lonely figure hunched over a rough-hewn board late into the night, painstakingly carving his grief into each letter of your name. Your brother? Your father?

Who mourns you today, Antonio?

When you stop to think about the People who lay beneath, you start to understand that every grave – prince or pauper – holds a story.

On a lighter note, if I see your gravestone and your name is Cleopatra, I’m going to take a picture. I’ll probably make up a back-story about you, too. It’s going to happen.

Concordia Cemetery is home to a surprisingly broad assembly of folks. There sections in the cemetery dedicated to a wide variety of racial, national, religious, and fraternal groups, including:

Mexican Revolutionary Figures
Chinese Section
Jewish Section
Catholic Section
Mormon Section
Masonic Section
Masonic Veterans Monument
Jesuit Priests Section
Grand Army Republic Veterans
Oddfellows Section

One particularly poignant section of the cemetery is the “Infant Nursery,” filled with unmarked graves for babies who were victims of the Influenza epidemic of 1917-18.

Famous “Residents” of Concordia Cemetery

Notable burials in Concordia include:

James Biggs, for whom Biggs Army Airfield is named.
Moses Carson, younger brother of Kit Carson.
Benjamin S. Dowell, first mayor of El Paso.
John Selman (1839-1896), gunslinger, killer of John Wesley Hardin.
Ernest St. Leon (d. 1898), Texas ranger.

By far, however, the most famous individual interred at Concordia is notorious Wild West gunslinger John Wesley Hardin. Depending on perspective, Hardin is remembered as either a “a friend to the poor” or a murderous brute.

Known as a cowboy, gunslinger, poker player, and later in life a lawyer, Hardin courted trouble most of his life. He reportedly killed his first man when he was fifteen, and claimed to have killed forty-two men throughout his life, though that figure may have been inflated… like his ego. (And on that note, I’m going with murderous brute.)

To dissuade visitors from taking souvenirs (which apparently was quite a problem for awhile), the grave of John Wesley Hardin now fenced and secured by a lock. It also has a nice Texas State Historical Marker detailing Hardin’s life.

Today, many of those who visit Hardin leave trinkets at his gravesite. When we visited, we saw shot glasses, coins, bottle caps, and cartridge shells scattered inside the iron-barred enclosure.

A walking tour of Concordia Cemetery can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour or more. It all depends on what you want to take away.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

Bring a camera, drinking water, and good walking shoes.
The terrain is desolate, with little to no shade, so it can get very hot, particularly in the summer. Wear sunscreen and/or carry a parasol. (Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.)
Walking sticks are available at the cemetery.
Texas Red Ants are not a myth: they will crawl up your shoes and bite you if you stand in one place too long. Keep moving.
Guided night “Ghost Tours” are available if you’re into that kind of thing.

Concordia Cemetery

3700 E Yandell Dr.

El Paso, Texas

915-842-8200

Map of Concordia Cemetery

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Discovering El Paso: 3 Must-see Stops on the Historic Mission Trail

January 17 By Renée ♥ 12 Comments

The El Paso Mission Trail traces a nine-mile segment of the oldest road in North America – the historic El Camino Real [The Royal Road ], taking travelers on a journey that passes by three Texas missions and through 400 years of history.

When you think of West Texas history, what first comes to mind?

Perhaps it’s the Spanish Conquistadores, who arrived on the banks of the Rio Grande back in 1598. Or maybe it’s The Alamo (remember?), or the rich, colorful Mexican influence, or the relentless floods in first half the early Nineteenth Century that changed the course of the Rio Grande.

Or maybe everything you know about West Texas happened back in 1957 at Rosa’s Cantina. (Let’s save that one for another post though, shall we?)

Or maybe it’s El Paso’s historic Mission Trail. Have you heard of it?

The El Paso Mission Trail traces a segment of the oldest (and at one time, the longest) road in North America – the historic El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro [The Royal Road of the Interior]. The short, nine-mile route takes travelers on a journey that passes by three missions and about 400 years of history.

Recently, I had the opportunity to spend about five hours exploring the Mission Trail with my dear friend Dottie, where we got a crash course on the intriguing, tumultuous history of three of Texas’ oldest mission communities.

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Socorro

Socorro Mission

Our first stop on the El Paso Mission Trail was at Socorro Mission, the second oldest mission in the state, and home of the oldest relics in El Paso.

Piro Indians built Socorro’s first permanent adobe church in 1691 in what was then Socorro, Mexico. Originally dedicated as Nuestra Senora de la Limpia Concepcion de los Piros del Socorro [Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception of the Piros of Socorro], the exterior of Socorro Mission represents a thunderbird, while the interior is in the shape of a cross.

By 1766, the Socorro Mission was being referred to as La Purísima Concepción del Socorro. A series of floods between 1829 and 1840 changed the course of the Rio Grande from north of Socorro to south of the townsite. When the river was declared the US-Mexico boundary, Socorro became part of United States.

The original adobe chapel was damaged during the flooding and later rebuilt about half a mile to the west in 1843. The restored chapel retains the original hand -carved cottonwood and cypress vigas [support beams] from the original structure.

The cross-beams in the ceiling of the Socorro Mission are recognized as the oldest original relics in Texas.

Socorro Mission
328 S. Nevarez Rd.
El Paso, TX 79927

Hours: 10am-4pm (M-F); 9am-6pm (Sat); 9am-1pm (Sun)
Phone: (915) 859-7718

San Elizario

San Elizario Presidio Chapel

San Elizario Chapel and Presidio was established in 1789 as Spanish defense against foreign powers and Indian raids. The flood of 1829 destroyed the chapel, and a new one was built with new adobe bricks from the original Presidio walls in the 1840’s. It continues to be used as an active church to this day.

The present chapel decor dates from 1944 when the church was repainted to honor local soldiers who fought in World War 11. Beautiful stained-glass windows depict flowers, patriotic symbols, and religious symbols.

Note the colorful, decorative, pressed-tin ceiling, and that stunning interwoven hardwood floor.

The San Elizario Chapel was simply beautiful. Dottie and I loved that each contributor to the 1944 redecoration is listed on a mural in the back of the chapel. When you visit, be sure to take some time to fully appreciate all the finely painted images and beautiful woodworking created by those talented, faithful hands.

San Elizario Chapel
1556 San Elizario Rd.
San Elizario, TX 79849

Hours: 7am-9:30am (Mon-Fri)
Open for Mass (Sat/Sun)
Phone: (915) 851-2333

San Elizario Historic District

San Elizario’s Historic District is literally a stone’s throw from the chapel. There you will find restaurants, gift shops, six art galleries, 22 art studios,18 Historic sites, the San Elizario Chapel, The Presidio (fort), the Veterans’ Memorial, and the Old El Paso County jail, and a larger-than-life statue of Billy the Kid.

According to legend, famed outlaw Billy the Kid freed the only man to ever escape from the old El Paso County Jail, in late November 1876.

Be sure to stop by the Los Portales Museum & Info Center, adjacent to the San Elizario Chapel. The docent who was working there the day we visited was both passionate and well-informed about the history of the San Elizario, and excited to share her knowledge with us.

The museum, which is housed in an 1850’s Territorial-style building, features exhibits celebrating San Elizario’s rich and colorful history. Among other things, you’ll learn about the real “First Thanksgiving,” the Spanish presidio, the San Elizario Salt War of 1877, and the first county seat of El Paso county.

Los Portales Museum & Info Center
Admission is free
Hours: 10am2pm (T-Sat); Noon-4pm (Sun); Closed (M)

San Elizario Walking Tour

Ysleta

Ysleta Mission

Ysleta Mission – the oldest mission in Texas – was our final stop on the El Paso Mission Trail. Originally established in 1613 in what is now New Mexico, Ysleta Mission [officially, Corpus Christi de la Ysleta del Sur] was relocated to El Paso in 1680. That was just the beginning of its turbulent history.

After rampaging floodwaters destroyed the El Paso chapel in 1742, and again in 1829, the adobe-walled building was move to its present location 1851. It was rebuilt once again in 1907, after a fire destroyed most of the structure.

The current mission was built by the Tigua Indian community, and now resides in what is recognized as the oldest community in Texas. The Tiguas, who achieved official reservation status in 1968, changed the name of their church to Mission San Antonio de los Tiguas, in 1980 in recognition of their patron saint, St. Anthony.

Today Ysleta Mission is considered the second oldest continually active parish in the United States.

Ysleta Mission
131 S. Zaragosa Rd.
El Paso, TX 79907

Hours: 7am-4pm (M-Sat); Closed (Sun)
Phone: (915) 859-9848

Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center

Practically around the corner from Ysleta Mission, you will find the Tigua Indian Cultural Center. The Tigua Indians are the oldest permanent settlers in Texas. In 1968, the State of Texas and the Federal Government recognized the tribe as a sovereign nation.

The cultural center aims to celebrate the rich culture of the local Tigua Indians through history, art, and dance in a variety of exhibits and events.

Dottie and I visited the during the week, so there wasn’t much going on beyond the static exhibits; however, we learned that on weekends, the Cultural Center stages social dance demonstrations in the courtyard; and on Saturdays, visitors can watch bread baking and taste fresh samples.

Tigua Indian Cultural Center
305 Yaya Lane
El Paso, Texas 79907

Hours: Wednesday – Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Closed: Monday and Tuesday

Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center, El Paso, Texas | The Good Hearted Woman

This bronze statue depicts a Tigua woman named Nestora Granillo Piarote. It stands in front of the Tigua Indian Cultural Center.

Good Eats on the Mission Trail

Somewhere between San Elizario and Ysleta, Dottie and I found ourselves feeling hungry and wishing we had a little something. The brunch spot in San Elizario at which we had planned to eat had been unexpectedly closed, so we Yelped our way to this little family owned hole-in-the-wall in Socorro.

We arrived at Quesadillas Estilo Villa Ahumada just before noon, and were two of only a few in the dining area. The restaurant itself is nothing fancy, but it is clean, comfortable, and affordable. Oh, and the food is awesome, too.

Dottie and I sat down in a booth and looked through the laminated menu for a few minutes. After much discussion, I decided on the Gorditas de la Maiz. We ordered, and then settle into our booth to talk.

Mission Trail Good Eats, El Paso, Texas | The Good Hearted Woman

Gorditas de la Maiz

Our food arrived in less than 10 minutes – just in time for us to look up from our conversation to see the long line at the order counter that had formed since we first arrived.

Tables filled quickly with faded coveralls and worn Wranglers, dusty t-shirts, and heavy work boots: confirmation that we’d stumbled into a local working-class hot spot. We could expect reasonable prices, hearty portions, and most importantly, dependably good food.

That is exactly what we got, too. My gorditas were crisp on the outside and tender inside, and not a bit greasy. Both Dottie and I commented on the the refried beans, which were exceptionally good. (Do you know tasty refried beans have to be for someone to take note of them? Yes: they were that good.) Our meals were fresh, hearty, and delicious; and the portions were so generous that I ended up taking half my meal home to eat later at the hotel.

Quesadillas Estilo Villa Ahumada – 2
131 Horizon Blvd, Ste 5
Socorro, Texas 79927

Phone: (915) 790-0456

Final Thoughts

While El Paso may not be the top destination on your Travel Bucket List, if you get the chance to visit, take it! And if you go, the El Paso Mission Trail should definitely be on your itinerary.

Additional Information: El Paso Mission Trail

Notably, there is a fourth mission on the Mission Trail – Our Lady of Guadalupe Mission – located just across the US-Mexico border in Juarez, Mexico. Unfortunately, Dottie and I had neither the time nor the passports needed to make that visit on our trip; however, if you find yourself in EL Paso with both on hand, it might be worth a trip.

Additional Information:

All of the missions are open to the public, with exception of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which is only open for special occasions.

El Paso Convention & Visitors Bureau
One Civic Center Plaza
El Paso, Texas 79901

Phone: (915) 534-0600
Toll-free: (800) 351-6024
FAX (9150 534-0686

Mission Valley Visitors Information Center
9065 Alameda Avenue
El Paso Texas 79907

Hours: 9am – 4pm (Mon-Fri); 9am – 3pm (Sat/Sun)
Phone: (915) 851-9997

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7 Stunning Reasons to Visit Arches National Park

September 17 By Renée ♥ 21 Comments

Mother Nature is a master sculptor and in no place is that more evident than at Arches National Park.

― Stefanie Payne, A Year in the National Parks: The Greatest American Road Trip

When I first set eyes on Arches National Park, it reminded me of what the “alien planet” sets on the original Star Trek series might have looked like if they had had a bigger budget. As we traveled through the park, I was fascinated by all of the artistic inspiration and rich color painted across the desolate high desert landscape. Everywhere I looked, sandstone towers reached and arches bowed; their orange, rust, and red bands constantly shifting in the sun’s sweeping path.

Located in central eastern Utah near the Colorado border, Arches National Park offers visitors a front row seat to some of the most stunning sandstone formations in the world. Over 2,000 documented sandstone arches within the park’s boundaries – more than any other place on the planet. (An arch, by definition, is “an opening in the rock that stretches at least three feet in one direction.”)

Arches National Park has been on my bucket list for some time now, and this summer I finally had the chance to experience it. The middle of summer may not be the optimal time to visit central Utah, but sometimes you just have to grab an opportunity when it’s in front of you, right? (The best time to visit in is the fall or spring.)

Here are seven places in Arches National Park that Mr B and I found especially awe-inspiring:

1. Delicate Arch

[Delicate Arch Hike – 2.6 mile RT/ Moderate to Strenuous]

Delicate Arch, iconic to Utah, is the most famous – and most photographed – arch in the world.

There is a viewpoint along the park road from which drivers can a good view of Delicate Arch. However, if it is at all within your abilities, we strongly encourage you to take the hike to get an up close, personal look. (I’ll be writing more about the Delicate Arch Hike and how to survive it in an upcoming post.)

Getting to Delicate Arch requires a moderately challenging hike, but it is totally worth the effort! Plan for at least 2 1/2 hours to make the hike, go early to avoid the heat and crowds, and don’t even think of hitting the trail without taking twice as much water as you think you need.

Pro Tip: This image was taken at about 9:30am. If you want to photograph Delicate Arch in all its glory, with the sun hitting all those amazing bands of red and rust just right, you’ll have to brave the crowds at sunset.

2. Giant’s Grin

[On the Delicate Arch Trail]

Full disclosure: I totally made that name up.

This place isn’t listed in any of the Arches National Park literature I could find, but it it one of the coolest places we saw at the park. (Literally. In the midmorning heat, it offered us some much needed shade.) I’m sure the ANP Rangers have a name for it, but I don’t know what it is. Whatever it’s called, you can find it a little more than three-quarters of the way up the Delicate Arch trail.

What I do know is that when you arrive at this landmark, you should be smiling, because your destination is just around the corner! Before you continue though, take a minute to enjoy this mammoth formation and the stunning photo op it offers.

One Day in Arches National Park {Moab, Utah}

If you look closely, you can see a couple of our kids cooling off in the recess.

(Did you think of a better name for this ^^^ formation? Leave us a note in the comments!)

3. Three Gossips & Sheep Rock

I don’t know why, but these particular formations just made me smile. I suppose it tickles me that the inspiration for naming Three Gossips is just so universal – nearly everyone has aunties or uncles or siblings or friends who could be those three. And who doesn’t love a giant stone sheep in the desert?

7 Stunning Reasons to Visit Arches National Park {Moab, Utah} | The Good Hearted Woman

The Three Gossips & Sheep Rock

Three Gossips stands about 350 feet at its tallest wall and sits within a grouping of sandstone towers known as the “Courthouse Towers cluster” that also includes The Argon Tower, The Organ, Tower of Babel, Sheep Rock, and The Lamb.

4. Courthouse Tower

The arches may get the most press, but this majestic monolith took my breath away. This image was taken from a roadside pull-out: no hike required.

Courthouse Towers - One Day in Arches National Park {Moab, Utah}

You know how every once and awhile you take a shot that makes you feel like the photography gods are on your side that day?

5. Balanced Rock

Balanced Rock stands an impressive 128 feet tall, and appears as though it is defying gravity. However, it is more a case of erosion wearing away at the base where the 3,600 ton boulder meets the pedestal than any epic balancing act. Eventually, Balanced Rock will come tumbling down as the erosional process continues to shape the landscape. (Sometimes science really works hard to poke a hole in your imagination balloon, doesn’t it?)

Balanced Rock can be seen from the park road, or you can make the very short hike around the formation’s base to get a close-up perspective.

6. The Windows Section

The Windows Section contains a large concentration of arches and is one of the most scenic locations in the park.

Formations in this area include North Window, Turret Arch, and Double Arch, Garden of Eden, Elephant Butte, and Parade of Elephants. (Though, truth be told, I haven’t got the fainted idea which on is which.)

7. Double Arch

Double Arch is a Must-do when visiting Arches National Park! This spectacular flowing formation can be found in the Windows section of the park. Double Arch consists of two arches that share the same stone foundation for both of their outer legs.

The sandy trail to Double Arch is very short and ADA compliant, which means it is considered barrier free. (Barrier-free trails may contain minor obstacles, steeper grades and temporary washouts.)

Taking the walk out to Double Arch is a lesson in perspective: the interlocking arches seem to grow to massive proportions as you get closer, and by the time you climb up into the arches themselves, you’ll finally know what those ants in your ant farm felt like.

Travel Information

Arches National Park Map

Arches National Park is open year-round, 24 hours a day. The park’s Visitor Center is located just inside the park, near the main entrance, with hours varying seasonally.

Park Entry Fees and Passes

Vehicle Entrance to Park – $25 (good for 7 days). This fee includes all occupants of a vehicle.
Individual Entrance to Arches – $10 (good for 7 days). This fee applies to bicycles and walk-ins (per person).
Motorcycle Entrance – $15 per motorcycle (good for 7 days).
America the Beautiful – National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Passis honored. Cost is $80. This is the best deal for people intending to visit multiple parks within a year’s time. You can get NP Parks Pass online or at the park entrance.
Southeast Utah Parks Pass
$50 valid through the month of purchase. Admits 1 private, non-commercial vehicle or its pass holder to Arches and Canyonlands national parks, and Hovenweep and Natural Bridges national monuments.

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An Afternoon on the Natchez Trace Parkway {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2}

September 4 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Stretching 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville Tennessee, the historic Natchez Trace Parkway takes travelers on a journey through history; from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and sweeping vistas.

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[This is the second in our series of posts about our day trip to Tupelo, Mississippi from Memphis, Tennessee. To read about our adventures in Tupelo, please visit Part 1.]

After spending the day in Tupelo, we decided to make our way back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway?

The Natchez Trace is an ancient trail that stretches 444 miles, from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee, and takes travelers by everything from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and green, sweeping vistas.

The original Trace path was carved by migrating prehistoric wildlife making their way between prairie lands and the Mississippi River. Later, Native American tribes picked up the Trace, and in time everyone from conquistadores, trappers, and boatmen to mail carriers and militia was using the Trace as a primary trade route through the region.

The Natchez Trace Parkway follows the path of the original Natchez Trace. Established as a National Park in 1938, the Parkway has since been designated an “All American Road & Scenic Byway.” (A National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the United States Department of Transportation for one or more of six “intrinsic qualities”: archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The Natchez Trace qualifies in all six.)

Traveler Notes: Mr B and I drove the 50-mile section of the Natchez Trace that connects Tupelo with US-72 W in Alabama. In terms of driving time, taking the Trace versus driving directly back to Memphis from Tupelo added about an hour and a half to our trip. We also spent at least three extra hours exploring the stops along the way. Taking the byway was totally worth the extra time and effort: my only regret is that we didn’t have more time to spend taking in more of the route.

Mile 266.0 – Parkway Visitor Center and Headquarters

We got on the Natchez Trace Parkway as we left Tupelo, stopping first at the Parkway Visitors Center and Headquarters, where we got an overview of the Natchez Trace and picked up some brochures and a map. [Specifically, we highly recommend picking up a Natchez Trace Parkway map provided by the National Park Service, which details each of the mile markers and stops along the Trace. We found it invaluable.]

Inside the Visitor Center you will find a park Ranger-staffed information desk, a small book and souvenir store, an auditorium, and a museum about the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center has an orientation film and a number of informative interpretive displays as well.

Official Natchez Trace map [PDF], showing the entire length of the Trace from Mississippi to Tennessee.
Mississippi to Alabama map [PDF], which includes all of the sites in this post.

Mile 269.4 – Old Trace & Confederate Gravesites

This was our first stop on the Natchez Trace. There is a short, relatively easy uphill walk from the parking lot to the Unknown Confederate Gravesite.

Much of the Old Trace had been abandoned by the start of the Civil War. However, the war did leave its mark on the Trace as it did upon the rest of the South. The soldiers marched, camped and fought along portions of this historic old road.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

As we walked the short path to these thirteen “Unknown Confederate” graves, I felt as if the very air around us was vibrating. It was probably just my imagination (or possibly those relentless Southern mosquitos).

That these men died on the wrong side of history is not up for debate here. Nevertheless, these thirteen graves stand in silent testament to the sacrifices made on every side in deadliest war in American history.

These thirteen men (boys, more likely) were someone’s son, or father, or brother, or lover. We don’t know how or why they ended up in this remote clearing far from home, nor do we know what was in each one’s mind and heart. We will never know. All we know is that these thirteen did not survive the fight.

Mile 275.2 – Dogwood Valley

Flowering dogwood is a common small tree throughout the eastern United States from Maine and Michigan south to Texas and Florida. Here the Natchez Trace passes through a small valley with an unusual stand of large dogwood trees. An easy 15 minute walk takes you along a sunken portion of the Old Trace and through the small wooded area named Dogwood Valley.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Dogwood Valley provided us with another short, easy hike. I didn’t get any good pictures of the landscape; mostly because I was busy chasing this darn butterfly – who would not hold still for me no matter how much I pleaded with him!

Mile 278.4 – Twentymile Bottom Overlook

There are a multitude of swamps, streams, and rivers along the lower regions on the Trace, and Twentymile Bottom is one such wetland. This particular stop struck Mr B and I both as a bit anticlimactic: as visitors from one of the greenest corners of the US, this spot was just another vista, and an overgrown one at that. Pretty, yes, but not particularly life-altering.

Traveler Notes: If you are driving a larger RV or pulling a trailer, you might want to consider skipping this stop. The overlook is at the end of a short road with no loop at the end, making it difficult for larger vehicles to turn around.

Mile 286.7 – Pharr Mounds

According to the National Park Service, Pharr Mounds is the largest and most important archaeological site in northern Mississippi. Built by Native American tribes 2,000 to 1,800 years ago, Pharr Mounds is a complex of eight mounds, spread over 90 acres. The mounds, or artificial hills, were built to either hold structures or for burial grounds.

You can only see three of the mounds from the parking lot, and there are no trails out to the mounds. The highest mound is only eighteen feet tall, while others have eroded to the point where it may be difficult to even identify them as hills.

Traveler Notes: This stop has a large parking lot, two picnic tables, some good interpretive information, and a public restroom facility (plumbed).

Mile 308.4 – Cave Spring

Cave Spring, a combination of a cave and a sinkhole, was a particularly interesting stop on our journey. Originally formed by underground water eroding the limestone to create a long room and corridor, the cave weakened over time until it collapsed.

An 800-foot paved path leads you to the mouth of a low cave entrance. Signs warn visitors that the limestone cave is dangerous and will eventually collapse; however, Mr B braved it for this picture because he’s just that kinda guy.

Mile 308.8 – Bear Creek Mound

The village site was occupied as early as 8,000 B.C. by hunters who stayed only long enough to prepare their kill. From the time of Christ to 1000 A.D., migratory people of this area practiced limited agriculture. The nearby fields and streams offered an abundance of nuts, fruits, game and fish. These people shaped this mound and built a crude temple on its summit to house their sacred images.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Traveler Notes: You can easily walk from Bear Creek Mound to the Mississippi-Alabama state line.

Mile 308.9 – Alabama-Mississippi State Line

Between Mr B and I, we have visited nearly every state in the United States. Until this trip, however, neither one of us had ever set foot in Alabama, so we decided to document the occasion.

Obviously, I was the first one in Alabama, because I had to get there first to take this picture of Mr B driving across the state line form Mississippi. (Not that anyone is keeping track or anything. 😉)

Mile 317.0 – Freedom Hills Overlook

Freedom Hills is the site of a short, steep trail that leads to the the highest point on the Natchez Trace in Alabama. There are two benches along the way for resting, and a third bench at the top of the hill.

When Mr B and I took the hike, we took our “good camera,” but both left our cell phones in the car for some reason, so we had to get very creative when it came to taking a picture of the two of us at the top. We jury-rigged a makeshift camera sling in the fork of a tree, and after I set the timer, I had to run down so that we could capture the memory. Let’s just say that it was a challenge and it took more than one try. So while this picture isn’t the greatest and the lighting is terrible, it represents a fun memory for us.

I imagine that this place – along with the entire Natchez Trace – puts on an amazing show of color in the fall.

Mile 320.3 – Buzzard Roost Spring

Buzzard Roost Springs was the last stop we made before getting on Highway 72 for the last leg of our Day Trip from Memphis to Tupelo. It was a peaceful, relaxing way to end our brief tour of Natchez Trace Parkway.

Originally called Buzzard Sleep, the name was changed to Buzzard Roost in 1801 by Levi Colbert, a renowned Chickasaw chief. The spring was a water source for the Colbert house which also served as an inn and stand for travelers on the Old Natchez Trace. Travelers who stopped here remarked that its a good place for they were well received, well fed and kindly treated.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Levi Colbert left behind a gripping legacy. As one of six sons of a Scots father and Chickasaw mother, Levi was in unique position between the two cultures. Both Levi and his brother George became prominent interpreters and negotiators, striving to foster peace with the US government while also maintaining the integrity and interests of the Chickasaw people and their culture.

Traveler Notes: If after, visiting this stop, you find yourself wanting to learn more (as I did) about the Chickasaw people; and more specifically, about the Colbert brothers and their intriguing story, you might want to check out Chickasaw Chief George Colbert: His Family and His Country.

Take Highway US-72 W back to Memphis!

Learn more about the Natchez Trace

Visit the Scenic Trace Website
Explore the Natchez Trace Interactive Map
Download the Natchez Trace Visitors Guide

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Tupelo, Mississippi {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 1}

August 20 By Renée ♥ 16 Comments

Looking for a great day trip from Memphis? Check out our real-life itinerary for our day trip from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississippi and back again (including our ridiculously Hobbit-like meal schedule).

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While on a recent trip to the Memphis area, Mr B and I found ourselves with an extra day on our hands, so we decided to broaden our horizons by taking a day trip to Tupelo, Mississippi, best known as the “Birthplace of Elvis.” And yes indeedee, we saw a heckuva lot of Elvis on this trip, but there’s more to Tupelo than just the history of its favorite son.

Tupelo, as it turns out, has a lot to offer. For example, did you know that the 444-mile historic Natchez Trace Parkway is headquartered in Tupelo? Or that one local man amassed a private collection of automobiles so extensive that Tupelo now boasts the official automobile museum of Mississippi? Or that, in Tupelo, you can legitimately have fried chicken, biscuits, and gravy for breakfast!?!

What follows is the real-life itinerary from our day trip; traveling from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississippi and back again via the Natchez Trace Parkway. I’ve also included our ridiculously Hobbit-like meal schedule in the itinerary (breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, etc.); however, if you are using this as a roadmap for your own day trip, don’t let our eating times or choices hold you back. There are plenty of wonderful places to eat in Tupelo that we didn’t get to. In fact, if you find a great spot to eat in Tupelo, we’d love it if you’d take a minute to share your discoveries in the comments below!

[Travelers: A condensed version of this itinerary can be found at the bottom of this post.]

DAY TRIP: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

📌 We wanted to arrive in Tupelo by 9am, so we had a light breakfast and then hit the road in Memphis about 7:15 am. It took about and hour and forty minutes to drive the 108 miles from Memphis to Tupelo [via I-22].

📌 First stop: Connie’s Chicken.

Connie’s Fried Chicken

821 S Gloster St
Tupelo, MS 38801-4933
662.842.7260

Ready to get your carbs on? If you crave pillow-soft, buttery biscuits, crispy fried chicken, and lots of smooth, savory white gravy like your grandma used to make, Connie’s is your kind of place. This uber-casual comfort food hub serves it all up counter-style with bright smiles, friendly service, and reasonable prices. I had the tenderloin biscuit with gravy, and Mr B had chicken, and we shared a couple of warm blueberry donuts, fresh from the fryer.

📌 From Connie’s, go directly to the Tupelo Visitors Center.

Tupelo Convention & Visitors Bureau

399 E Main Street
Tupelo, Mississippi 38103-1623
662.841.6521

Tupelo has an excellent Visitors Center! Newly opened in 2018, the Tupelo Visitors Center is the perfect starting point for your day. Stop in and get the low down on the best attractions, arts, culture, outdoor recreation, shopping, and Elvis locations in the area.

At the visitors’ center, you can play with the interactive kids’ map, plan your itinerary, or pick up relevant informational brochures; including Elvis Driving Tour and Elvis Guitar Tour maps. There is also a display that allows you to hear the African American gospel, country, and blues music and musicians that influenced Elvis as a boy, and understand better how he integrated them into his unique musical style.

Elvis Driving Tour

Even if you don’t plan to follow this tour, the brochure provides a good overview of the town and will likely help you plan your day.

Elvis Guitar Trail

These 6-foot tall Elvis-themed guitars are ALL OVER town! More than 25 guitars have become permanent part of downtown Tupelo’s cityscape, and provide visitors with some great photo-ops. {Tip: If you post a photo with one of the guitars, be sure to tag it using #MyTupelo!}

📌 Drive to the “Elvis’ Birthplace.”

Elvis’ Birthplace

306 Elvis Presley Drive
Tupelo, MS 38804-2812
662.841.1245

Elvis Aaron Presley was born in Tupelo, Mississippi, on January 8, 1935, in a 450 square foot, two-room house built by his father, grandfather and uncle. The house is now one of the main attractions of the Elvis’ Birthplace and Museum.

The moment we opened the door to Elvis’ childhood home, an unexpected wave of familiarity swept over me – it smells exactly like my Grandma Lucy’s house!

As we stepped inside, a delightful docent greeted us, and enthusiastically shared both her knowledge of Elvis’ early life and details about the home, as well as her philosophy on a community’s responsibility in raising its children. She was abundantly entertaining.

The actual building where the Presley family attended church services has been moved to the Elvis Birthplace location. It was inside the walls of this small community chapel that Elvis was first introduced to the Southern gospel music that wove its way into his music throughout his life.

Through a multimedia presentation, visitors to the chapel experience a condensed church service, and are introduced to Elvis’ early musical influences; including Brother Frank, who taught Elvis his first guitar chords, and the gospel quartets that inspired his music.

If you want to tour the house or the chapel, you’ll need to purchase tickets, but you can walk the grounds and see the exterior of Elvis’ birthplace (still in its original location) free of charge. Tickets to tour the house, chapel, and museum are available for purchase inside the lobby. The earlier you arrive here, the better: this is the Big tourist attraction in town and it gets busy quickly.

📌 After completing your tour of Elvis’ Birthplace, head over to Johnnie’s Drive-In.

Johnnie’s Drive-In

908 E Main Street
Tupelo, MS 38804-2828
662.842.6748

Mr B and I stopped in at Johnnie’s mostly because we are both hopeless romantics and it sounded like a good idea. We were thrilled when we walked in just as the “Elvis Booth” was being vacated, and took our seats before any other crazy Elvis tourists could steal the honor. Mr B and I decided to skip the food and share a root beer float, which turned out to be a great deal because the friendly waitresses at Johnnie’s kept refilling our glass with root beer every time it got low until we finally finished off the ice cream.

The Elvis Booth at Johnnie's Drive-In - Day Trip from Memphis {Part 1: Tupelo, Mississippi} | The Good Hearted Woman

I’d share a root beer float with this guy anytime!

Posted at the Elvis Booth, just below a picture of Elvis sitting the aforementioned booth:

My name is Paul Cramer, and this is the story of my Elvis picture.

I was a traveling salesman in 1956, selling costume jewelry, for the Gerson Company out of Kansas City, MO. My territory was the South. I visited jewelry stores in Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia and Tennessee.

While I was showing my wares to a jeweler in Tupelo, Mississippi, a teenage girl came into the store. She was out of breath and very excited screaming “Elvis is next-door – Elvis is next door!” I didn’t know who Elvis was, but she told me he was very popular in the South.

I happen to have my camera in my car, so I went next door to the café. Elvis was sitting in a booth with another man and there were a few girls around. I asked him if I could take his picture. He said, “OK,” so I took it!

When I came home, I had the picture developed and put away, not thinking much about it. I forgot about it until I came across it in 1997, 41 years later, as I was looking through old photo albums. This is how I took Elvis’s picture.

We are abysmally bad at taking selfies, but at least we have fun while we try!

📌 Next stop: Downtown Tupelo.

Downtown Tupelo

Visit the Tupelo Hardware Store, where Gladys Presley purchased Elvis his first guitar for $7.

Tupelo Hardware Company
114 W Main Street
Main & Front Streets
Tupelo, MS 38804-3916

Tupelo Hardware is one of twelve sites in Tupelo that are marked with bronze plaques on the Elvis Presley Driving Tour, signifying it as having played an important role in Elvis’ formative years. It was at this store that Gladys Presley, Elvis’ mother, purchased his first for his 11th birthday in 1946, for $6.95.

Tupelo Hardware is a fully functioning hardware store (with excellent cast iron offerings!), and visitors are welcome during the store’s regular hours.

Beyond the hardware store, Downtown Tupelo is lined with locally owned specialty shops that carry everything from home décor and artwork by local artists to clothes to cigars and wine. You’ll probably see a few Elvis murals, too. 😉

📌 Drive (or walk) to the Tupelo FairPark, where you can enjoy the wide open-space, the Elvis Homecoming statue, city hall, a small children’s park, and a small but refreshing splash pad.

FairPark

71 Troy Street
Tupelo, MS
662.841.6513

In 1956, Elvis returned to Tupelo and performed a Homecoming Concert at the Mississippi/Alabama Fair and Dairy Show Fairgrounds.

Now known as FairPark, it is home to Tupelo’s annual Elvis Festival, held the first week in June each year. The festival features live music, with past past performers including such artists as Little Big Town, Montgomery Gentry, and B.B. King.

Homecoming Statue

📌 Head over to the Tupelo Automobile Museum and spend an hour or so motoring through the past.

Tupelo Automobile Museum

1 Otis Dr (Corner Franklin & Otis Across from BancorpSouth Arena)
Tupelo, MS 38804-4015

I have to admit that the Tupelo Automobile Museum came as a bit of a surprise. You just don’t expect a town the size of Tupelo to be home to one of the most extensive car collections in the United States. It was pretty amazing, and well worth the entrance fee.

The Tupelo Automobile Museum houses over 100 antique, classic, and collectible cars, all chronologically displayed to illustrate the progress of auto design and engineering over the 100 years. The oldest car in the collection is a 1886 Benz; the newest is a 1994 Dodge Viper.

This collection of kid cars brought back some fond memories.

There were plenty of “famous” cars in the collection as well, including BB King’s 1984 Chevy El Camino, Tony Curtis car (the “Leslie Special”) from the movie The Great Race, and of course, one of Elvis’ cars. (Most of Elvis’ cars can be found in Elvis Presley Motors exhibit at the Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex in Memphis.)

📌 Grab a late lunch at the Neon Pig.

Neon Pig

1203 N Gloster Street
Tupelo, MS 38804-1222
662.269.2533

Before heading back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway, we stopped to grab a world-class burger at the Neon Pig. The Neon Pig Café is the only all-in-one butcher shop and restaurant in Mississippi, and lays claim to one of the best burgers in America.

The Neon Pig’s Smash Burger was officially named “Best Burger in America” by thrillist.com in 2015. The Smash Burger is a combination of aged filet, ribeye, sirloin, New York steak, and Benton’s bacon, all ground together to give it a strong, smoky flavor. It is served on a ciabatta bun with bacon bits, cheddar cheese, onion, and a housemade comeback sauce. Mr B and I decided to split one burger, which was more than enough, and ordered coleslaw and potato salad on the side.

I don’t eat enough burgers to know if this is The Best burger in the US, but it was definitely delicious. (In my mind, the distinction of “world’s best burger” will always and forever go to the T-burger from the Twilight Room [i.e., T-Room] on Lombard in Portland, Oregon.) The ciabatto bun held up well to the imposing mass of meats and sauce, and the flavors all played very nicely together. My best advice for eating at the Neon Pig is – DO NOT SKIP the potato salad! It is amazing! I’m certain that it has more bacon products in it than any ten average potato salads, and that’s probably why it’s so crazy-good.

📌 Stop by the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitors Center just outside of Tupelo.

Natchez Park Visitor’s Center

2680 Natchez Trace Pkwy
Tupelo, MS 38804-9715
800.305.7417

The Natchez Trace is a primitive trail once traveled by Native Americans over 8,000 years ago, spanning 444 miles and reaching from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Tennessee. The Natchez Trace Parkway, headquartered in Tupelo, is one of America’s Top 10 National Parks. Guests can explore the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center and discover the parkway’s rich history and inhabitants.

If you stop in, be sure to pick up the “Natchez Trace Parkway” map/brochure issued by the US Park Service. We found it to be invaluable as we took our tour of the Trace.

📌 Drive the Natchez Trace north from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72; roughly 11 miles into Alabama from the Tennessee-Alabama state line.

Natchez Trace Parkway

It took us about three hours to drive the 50-some miles the Natchez Trace Parkway from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72, which included plenty of time to take in most of the roadside interpretive sites along the way. There is so much history along this route, spanning cultures across millenia, and it simply wouldn’t do it justice to bury it here at the end of an already lengthy post, so we ‘ll be covering it next week instead. Tune in next week to read all about our adventures in Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2 – Natchez Trace Parkway.

Day Trip from Memphis: Tupelo, Mississippi | The Good Hearted Woman

Coming up next week: 50 Miles of history along the Natchez Trace Parkway {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2}

📌Return to Memphis: Fill up your gas tank and grab a snack in one of the towns along Highway 72. (We stopped in Corinth, Mississippi.) Travel time back to Memphis from the Natchez Trace / Hwy 72 interchange is about 2 hours [128 Miles]. [Route: Hwy 72 to Hwy 385 to I-240 to I-69.]

DAY TRIP ITINERARY: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

Short Version

To arrive in Tupelo by 9am, plan to hit the road in Memphis about 7:15 am. Eat a little something for breakfast before you leave to tide you over.
Drive from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississipppi via I-22 [Travel time: 1 hour, 40 min. – 108 mi.]
Stop in at Connie’s Chicken for a carb-intensive second breakfast of fried chicken, warm biscuits, gravy, and fresh blueberry donuts.
From Connie’s, go directly to the Tupelo Visitors Center. Take a quick look around, play with the interactive kids’ map, and pick up relevant informational brochures; including Elvis Driving Tour and Elvis Guitar Tour maps.
Drive to the “Birthplace of Elvis.” You can purchase tickets inside the lobby. The earlier you arrive here, the better: this is the Big tourist attraction in town and it gets busy quickly.
After completing your tour of Elvis’ Birthplace, head over to Johnnie’s Drive-In and have a little snack or a root beer float in the “Elvis Booth.”
Next stop: Downtown Tupelo.
Visit the Tupelo Hardware Store, where Elvis purchased his first guitar for $7.
Stroll Downtown Tupelo and check out the cool local shops and murals.
Drive (or walk) to the Tupelo FairPark, where you can enjoy the wide open-space, the Elvis Homecoming statue, city hall, a small children’s park, and a small but refreshing splash pad.
Head over to the Tupelo Automobile Museum and spend an hour or so motoring through the past.
Grab a late lunch at the Neon Pig before heading back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway. (Be sure to try the potato salad!)
Stop by the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitors Center just outside of Tupelo. Be sure to pick up the “Natchez Trace Parkway” map/brochure issued by the US Park Service.
Drive the Natchez Trace north from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72; roughly 11 miles into Alabama from the Tennessee-Alabama state line.
Fill up your gas tank and grab a snack in one of the towns along Highway 72. (We stopped in Corinth, Mississippi.)
Travel time back to Memphis from the Natchez Trace / Hwy 72 interchange is about 2 hours [128 Miles]. [Route: Hwy 72 to Hwy 385 to I-240 to I-69.]

Total Round-trip Mileage (not including driving all over Tupelo) = 300 miles.

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One Day in Ashland, Oregon

July 12 By Renée ♥ 24 Comments

Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

Ashland, Oregon is more than just a touristy little town with a world-class repertory theater and a pretty park. It is a place where culture and memories run deep, creative inspiration is bountiful, local cuisine is celebrated, and Shakespeare reigns.

I still remember the first play I ever attended in Ashland, many years ago in the Angus Bowmer Theater. It was “Our Town,” Thorton Wilder’s 1938 classic play-within-a-play, set in fictional Grover’s Corners around the turn of the 20^th century. I went with my favorite aunt, who had been raised in a small town not unlike Grover’s Corners, adding yet another layer to Wilder’s theatrical onion and offering us abundant fodder for our post-theater conversation. That weekend, in addition to strolling the shops and lunching in Lithia Park, we attended Shakespeare’s “Taming of Shrew” and George Bernard Shaw’s “Major Barbara” as well. I recall the three days we spent in Ashland as some of my fondest times with my Auntie.

Recently, I’ve had a number of opportunities to revisit Ashland, and while much has changed in the years between my first play and my most recent, much remains the same: the beautiful scenery, the vibrant arts scene, and above all, the cheerful, welcoming community.

If you are planning a visit to Ashland, here are a few must-dos to put at the top of your list:

Stroll: Lithia Park

“One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.”
– from Troilus and Cressida

With ninety-some acres of well-maintained paths, lush green lawns, two duck ponds, a Japanese garden, a formal rose garden, wide open spaces, tennis and badminton courts, and picnic areas, Lithia Park has something for everyone. Set in the center of Ashland adjacent to the theater area, this 125-year city park is daily from dawn until 11pm.

A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Butler-Perozzi Fountain

If you are the sort of person who likes to have a plan, I suggest that you check out the Lithia Park Trail Guide online. Printed guides are also available for purchase at the following locations:

Ashland Parks & Recreation Office, The Grove, 1195 E. Main St.
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Kiosk, on the Plaza in Ashland
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Office, 110 E Main St

Rejuvenate [or maybe not]: Lithia Water

“Glory is like a circle on the water, which never ceaseth to enlarge itself, till, by broad spreading, it disperses to naught.”
– from Henry VI, Part 1

In the early 1900s, the residents of Ashland discovered that their town sat smack next to a lithium-rich spring. At the time, lithium was being touted as a health tonic, and the city tried to capitalize on this trend by building a health spa. Soon however, plans were abandoned as the lithium fad faded.

You can try lithium water today at the downtown Plaza at the northern most tip of Lithia Park, where a multi-spout “Lithia Water” fountain still stands.

Pro-Tip: Be forewarned – [in my opinion] Lithia Water tastes terrible, kind of like that egg salad you left in the fridge a couple too many days.

Discover: Downtown Ashland

“I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it.”
– from As You Like It

Downtown Ashland streets are lined with bright, cozy boutique shops offering a wide variety of goods, including home décor, artisan pottery, handcrafted jewelry and clothing, gourmet foods and wines, and art by both local and internationally recognized artists. Oh, and yarn. Lots and lots of beautiful yarn.

Nosh: Greenleaf Restaurant

“Tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers.”
– from Romeo & Juliet

The Greenleaf Restaurant has offered delicious vegetarian, vegan, organic, gluten-free, & carnivore dining options on Ashland’s Plaza for more than three decades. It’s a great place to pick up a fresh, locally sourced salad or tasty sandwich. Everything on the menu is available to go, and if you ask them nicely, they will even pack you a marvelous picnic lunch to take to Lithia Park!

Flashy Photo-op: Guanajuato Mural

“Live a little; comfort a little; cheer thyself a little.”
– from As You Like It

Dedicated in 2016, “Las Calles” [“The Streets”] was created to honor Ashland’s sister city of Guanajuato City, Guanajuato, Mexico. Located in downtown Ashland on the exterior side wall of Sesame Asian Kitchen restaurant facing Calle Guanajuanto, it represents a “kind of peace wall. A wall that connects two cultures, two cities, two nations.” [- Barry Thalen, mural patron]

Maybe we need more murals.

Marlynn [UrbanBlissLife.com] practices her cheer moves. She’s still got it, baby!

Sidelight: A mural depicting the highlights of Ashland was dedicated June, 2018 in Guanajuato, Mexico.

Fancy-Pants Eats: Larks

“Dost thou think, because thou are virtuous, there shall be no more cakes and ale?”
– from Twelfth Night

Surprisingly, Ashland is a little like the theater district in Manhattan, in that before showtime, restaurants fill up with well-heeled theater-goers out for a night on the town, and empty once the show doors begin to open. One of the most popular places in Ashland for a before-the-theater meal is Larks, located in the beautiful, historic Ashland Springs Hotel.

Larks offers diners a truly authentic Farm-to-Table experience. With seasonal ingredients delivered daily from local farms, Larks’ kitchen, under the direction of Executive Chef Franco Console, creates fresh, flavorful, innovative, regionally-inspired dishes that are the hallmark of fine Pacific Northwest cuisine.

One of Chef Franco’s guiding tenets is “know our farmers,” and he is passionate about creating a connection between his restaurant’s guests and local farmers, ranchers, distillers, and winemakers.

Larks (Pork Chop) - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

My halibut dinner at Larks was succulent and perfectly cooked. So good – I can’t believe I ate the whole thing!

Larks Restaurant {at Ashland Springs Hotel}
212 East Main Street
Ashland, OR 97520
541.488.5558

Out on the Town: Shakespeare & Beyond

I wonder if Angus Bowmer had a glimmer, when he put on Ashland’s first three-day Shakespeare Festival back in 1935, of what his vision would become, and how it would someday shape everything – from pop culture to politics – for his town and far beyond.

“There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”
– from Hamlet

Visiting Ashland during Shakespeare Festival season and not seeing at least one play is like visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. It simply isn’t done. But don’t worry if Shakespeare isn’t your jam, because the Festival puts on a broad selection of productions – everything from classic, long-bearded tragedies to fresh, provocative comedies to political activist dramas, and everything in between. There is sure to be something on the lineup that will bring you to your feet.

With a season that now stretches from February to October, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is the largest repertory theater in the United States. Visit the OSF website for information about tickets and plays.

Allen Elizabethan Theater - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Empty stage, ready for ‘Beauty and the Beast.’ [There are no photos allowed during the actual play.]

^{Disclosure: My dinner at Larks and ticket to Beauty and the Beast were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

McCully House, Jacksonville, Oregon

Corner Sign - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail

One Day in Old San Juan {Puerto Rico}

April 20 By Renée ♥ 17 Comments

Old San Juan is replete with amazing history, old world charm, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
Last month, Mr B and I celebrated our anniversary with a cruise in the eastern Caribbean (she says, casually flipping her hair back, like she takes a cruise every other week). Unlike Mr B, who took a few Caribbean cruises on his own courtesy of the US Navy, I had never even been in the Atlantic Ocean before, much less the Caribbean, so it was a whole new world for me.

Panarama: San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Our week-long cruise took us to ports in Grand Turk, St Thomas, Bahamas, and Puerto Rico, where we had a whole day to wander Old San Juan at our leisure. Coincidentally, our anniversary fell on the day our ship ported in San Juan, and it was a perfect place to celebrate.

Before we go on; a few thoughts on Old San Juan, post-Maria

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I was a little concerned before we departed on our trip about what we might find in Puerto Rico, which is still trying to recover after Hurricane Maria swept through and ravaged the island last fall. The reality is, while clean-up efforts have made great progress, there is plenty of structural damage still in evidence, and things are still not up and running as they should be. For example, just this week, they experienced an island-wide blackout as construction companies worked through technical issues to restore electrical services to residents.

However, much of the island’s economy relies on tourism, and it’s obvious that a great deal of effort and man-hours have gone into rehabilitating the Old San Juan area, which is within easy walking distance of the cruise ship ports. So while it isn’t yet quite as bright and shiny as it once was, Old San Juan is still replete with amazing history – the kind you can literally walk up a touch! – plus charming, colorful architecture, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

One Day in Old San Juan: What to do on Your #Cruise Stop 🌺 #PuertoRico #PuertoRicoTravel #ExploreTheWorld #CruiseStop #Travel Click To Tweet

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour

When we arrived in San Juan, Mr B and I chose to forego all of the shore excursions offered by the cruise, and instead stepped out on our own to explore what Old San Juan had to offer. If you decide to go on a walking tour as we did, all you really need is a pair of comfortable walking shoes, a little cash (for street vendors), some serious sun protection, and your phone or camera.

European history on the island began in 1493, when Christopher Columbus landed there and named the island “San Juan Bautista,” in honor of John the Baptist. Subsequently, in 1508, the Spanish government appointed Juan Ponce de León as the first governor of the island. He founded the original settlement in Caparra (now known as Pueblo Viejo), and city soon became Spain’s most important military outpost in the Caribbean.

A few years later, the original settlement was relocated to a nearby coastal islet and christened Puerto Rico [Rich Port]. At that point, some confusion arose and somehow there was a name switch; from that time forward, the island has been known as Puerto Rico, and the town, San Juan.

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Monumento al Inmigrante (the Immigrant) stands just west of the cruise port near San Juan Bay.

The first stop on our walking tour was at the Puerto Rico Tourism Company near the end of Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, where we picked up a map of Old San Juan, as well as some very helpful information about getting around the city during the hurricane restoration efforts. (There are also many maps of Old San Juan online: we found this map from Mappery to be particularly helpful.) You can also find large display maps of Old San Juan sprinkled all around the city.

Paseo de La Princesa Promenade

We started our walking tour with a stroll down Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, which was originally built in 1853. When I first heard the name of this relaxing, tree-lined boulevard, I thought to myself, “Oh, how nice… ‘Walkway of the Princess.'” Then I learned that the name has far darker origins.

Paseo de la Princesa is, in fact, named for an infamous prison called La Princesa that was once housed in and beneath what is now the Puerto Rico Tourism Company. During business hours, you can take a free tour of the cells, and even see where prisoners were tortured and shot. However, when the docent at the Tourism Company reception desk mentioned that people often experience “weird things” when they walk through the old prison, we (mostly me) decided to skip it. (Not because I expected to see/hear/feel anything weird, of course. Because that never happens to me. Ever.)

The walk along the promenade takes you by a rather interesting sculpture garden, home to a wide variety of religious and secular sculptures.

Raices Fountain (aka “Roots Fountain”)

The Raíces Fountain [aka “Roots Fountain”] at the end of Paseo de la Pricesa, is considered to be one of the most romantic spots in Old San Juan. I wish we could have gotten closer, because some of pictures I’ve seen of the fountain up close are stunning; unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the street was blocked off while hurricane restoration efforts were being completed on the waterfront. (I took this image while leaning over the barricade. 📷)

The fountain, completed in 1992, was designed by architect Miguel Carlo to commemorate and celebrate the New World’s 500th anniversary. The collection of bronzes honors Puerto Rico’s mixed African, Spanish and Taino/Amerindian heritage.

Cathedral of San Juan Bautista

Built on the site where the body of Ponce de Leon is entombed, the the Cathedral de San Juan Bautista was the first cathedral church in the Americas, and is an authentic example of classic medieval architecture. The original cathedral was constructed from wood in 1521, but was destroyed by a hurricane and rebuilt in 1540, with improvements and renovations taking place over the centuries, the last time being in 1917.

Parks, Plazas, Monuments & Fountains

It seems that everywhere you go in Old San Juan, there’s another park, plaza, monument, or fountain. This little park across the street from Cathedral of San Juan Bautista is populated with some of the most peculiarly whimsical statues in the city.

Old San Juan is only three square miles, with four-hundred Spanish 16th and 17th century colonial-style buildings lining its narrow streets.

Inside the Old City Wall

San Juan is known as La Ciudad Amurallada (the walled city), and is one of the largest natural harbors in the Caribbean. Originally built to protect the city from foreign invaders and ransacking pirates, the fortress-like walls around Old San Juan are up to forty-two feet tall and up to forty-five feet thick at the base. You can see how the wall runs the entire length of the waterfront in the image below.

The views from atop the wall are nearly endless.

If you walk along the topmost part of the wall along Paseo Del Morro, you will find a small, shady plaza that faces the water. There you can see La Rogativa, a sculpture created by Lindsay Daen to mark San Juan’s 450th anniversary. Paying tribute to a legend borne during a siege in 1797, it portrays a bishop and three women carrying torches in a religious procession. It seems, according to the legend, that the light from the torches caused the British invaders to think they were seeing Spanish reinforcements coming, so they turned and fled.

La Puerta de San Juan

La Puerta de San Juan [The San Juan Gate] is the main gate in Old San Juan’s wall. (You can’t miss it – it’s bright red!) The last remaining of Old San Juan’s six original gates, it was for centuries locked each day at sundown to ward off enemy attacks. An inscription (in Latin) above the door reads: “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord.” Today, if you walk through it from inside the city, you’ll be rewarded with a lovely view of the San Juan Bay on the other side.

La Puerta de San Juan ~ “The San Juan Gate”

Castillo San Cristóbal

Castillo San Cristóbal took nearly 140 years to complete and is the largest fortification built by Spain in the New World. The uphill walk there is totally worth the effort, as it offers an amazing, panoramic views of the city and coastline.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro: San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Castilla San Cristóbal, as seen from our cruise ship.

Hiking up to Castillo de Cristóbal from Old San Juan

The symmetry of this shot makes me happy.

Cats of San Juan

One thing you are sure to see in Old San Juan is cats. Everywhere. Hundreds of feral cats live in the city and roam the streets and the waterfront.

A grass-roots group, Save a Gato (cat), supports the well-being of San Juan’s feral cats. They provide them with food and water, and also trap, neuter, vaccinate, and release them.

A cat needs a name, so I called her Audrey. In a sea of sullied strays, she was poised, regal, and stunning.

As we wandered the side streets of Old San Juan, we saw pans of cat food and lean, lazy cats lying everywhere.

Barrachina: Birthplace of the Piña Coloda

We concluded our day in Old San Juan with a celebratory dinner at Barrachina, the birthplace of the piña colada.

I can’t conclusively verify that Barrachina is really “the first” place on earth where someone was inspired to blend ice, coconut, pineapple, and rum into a heavenly, refreshing beverage, but they have a plaque on the front of the restaurant that says it, so it must be true. Regardless, I can unequivocally testify (from intense personal research) that they serve up a pretty delicious piña colada. 😉

Mr B and I usually try to avoid deep-fried anything, but these Grouper fritters (lightly breaded with coconut) just called out to me from the menu, and once they arrived at our table, we were both extremely happy that we ordered them. Served with a side of tarter sauce and fresh lime, they were sweet, tender, and perfectly fried.

Mofongo was easily the most unique (to us) thing we ate on our trip. A Puerto Rican specialty, mofongo is made with mashed fried green plantain, seasoned with garlic and spices, and formed into a dome or bowl. At Barrachina, it is served with your choice of toppings, which include steak, chicken, vegetables, seafood, or shrimp.

Mr B and I both had the Shrimp Mofongo, which was far more filling than we had anticipated. (I’m sure the two piña coladas we had while we waited for our meal had nothing at all to do with that!) In retrospect, although it was very tasty, a single mofongo plate would have been more than enough. Needless to say, we took a to-go bag home for late night snacking on the ship. Win-win!

All Aboard! 🚢

If you are visiting Old San Juan via cruise ship, be sure to take in the views while you are waiting to for the ship to embark. I captured this stunning sunset while sitting on our balcony.

Although Mr B and I didn’t feel the need to use it when we were there, it’s good to know that Old San Juan provides a free trolley service all around the city. The trolley runs every day Monday through Friday from 7am until 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am until 7pm every 15 minutes. You can also rent a bicycle and helmet near the cruise port for the day for a very reasonable price.

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Click here for more information about Old San Juan.
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One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

January 18 By Renée ♥ 23 Comments

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

3 Days in Jacksonville [Travel Oregon]
Things to Do in Jacksonville [TripAdvisor]
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Jacksonville [Urban Bliss Life]
I Spent the Night in Historic Jacksonville [Melissa Kaylene]

My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. As always, all opinions and images (except as noted) are my own.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!