One Day in Ashland, Oregon

Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

Ashland, Oregon is more than just a touristy little town with a world-class repertory theater and a pretty park. It is a place where culture and memories run deep, creative inspiration is bountiful, local cuisine is celebrated, and Shakespeare reigns.

I still remember the first play I ever attended in Ashland, many years ago in the Angus Bowmer Theater. It was “Our Town,” Thorton Wilder’s 1938 classic play-within-a-play, set in fictional Grover’s Corners around the turn of the 20^th century. I went with my favorite aunt, who had been raised in a small town not unlike Grover’s Corners, adding yet another layer to Wilder’s theatrical onion and offering us abundant fodder for our post-theater conversation. That weekend, in addition to strolling the shops and lunching in Lithia Park, we attended Shakespeare’s “Taming of Shrew” and George Bernard Shaw’s “Major Barbara” as well. I recall the three days we spent in Ashland as some of my fondest times with my Auntie.

Recently, I’ve had a number of opportunities to revisit Ashland, and while much has changed in the years between my first play and my most recent, much remains the same: the beautiful scenery, the vibrant arts scene, and above all, the cheerful, welcoming community.

If you are planning a visit to Ashland, here are a few must-dos to put at the top of your list:

Stroll: Lithia Park

“One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.”
– from Troilus and Cressida

With ninety-some acres of well-maintained paths, lush green lawns, two duck ponds, a Japanese garden, a formal rose garden, wide open spaces, tennis and badminton courts, and picnic areas, Lithia Park has something for everyone. Set in the center of Ashland adjacent to the theater area, this 125-year city park is daily from dawn until 11pm.

A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Butler-Perozzi Fountain

If you are the sort of person who likes to have a plan, I suggest that you check out the Lithia Park Trail Guide online. Printed guides are also available for purchase at the following locations:

Ashland Parks & Recreation Office, The Grove, 1195 E. Main St.
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Kiosk, on the Plaza in Ashland
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Office, 110 E Main St

Rejuvenate [or maybe not]: Lithia Water

“Glory is like a circle on the water, which never ceaseth to enlarge itself, till, by broad spreading, it disperses to naught.”
– from Henry VI, Part 1

In the early 1900s, the residents of Ashland discovered that their town sat smack next to a lithium-rich spring. At the time, lithium was being touted as a health tonic, and the city tried to capitalize on this trend by building a health spa. Soon however, plans were abandoned as the lithium fad faded.

You can try lithium water today at the downtown Plaza at the northern most tip of Lithia Park, where a multi-spout “Lithia Water” fountain still stands.

Pro-Tip: Be forewarned – [in my opinion] Lithia Water tastes terrible, kind of like that egg salad you left in the fridge a couple too many days.

Discover: Downtown Ashland

“I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it.”
– from As You Like It

Downtown Ashland streets are lined with bright, cozy boutique shops offering a wide variety of goods, including home décor, artisan pottery, handcrafted jewelry and clothing, gourmet foods and wines, and art by both local and internationally recognized artists. Oh, and yarn. Lots and lots of beautiful yarn.

Nosh: Greenleaf Restaurant

“Tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers.”
– from Romeo & Juliet

The Greenleaf Restaurant has offered delicious vegetarian, vegan, organic, gluten-free, & carnivore dining options on Ashland’s Plaza for more than three decades. It’s a great place to pick up a fresh, locally sourced salad or tasty sandwich. Everything on the menu is available to go, and if you ask them nicely, they will even pack you a marvelous picnic lunch to take to Lithia Park!

Flashy Photo-op: Guanajuato Mural

“Live a little; comfort a little; cheer thyself a little.”
– from As You Like It

Dedicated in 2016, “Las Calles” [“The Streets”] was created to honor Ashland’s sister city of Guanajuato City, Guanajuato, Mexico. Located in downtown Ashland on the exterior side wall of Sesame Asian Kitchen restaurant facing Calle Guanajuanto, it represents a “kind of peace wall. A wall that connects two cultures, two cities, two nations.” [- Barry Thalen, mural patron]

Maybe we need more murals.

Marlynn [UrbanBlissLife.com] practices her cheer moves. She’s still got it, baby!

Sidelight: A mural depicting the highlights of Ashland was dedicated June, 2018 in Guanajuato, Mexico.

Fancy-Pants Eats: Larks

“Dost thou think, because thou are virtuous, there shall be no more cakes and ale?”
– from Twelfth Night

Surprisingly, Ashland is a little like the theater district in Manhattan, in that before showtime, restaurants fill up with well-heeled theater-goers out for a night on the town, and empty once the show doors begin to open. One of the most popular places in Ashland for a before-the-theater meal is Larks, located in the beautiful, historic Ashland Springs Hotel.

Larks offers diners a truly authentic Farm-to-Table experience. With seasonal ingredients delivered daily from local farms, Larks’ kitchen, under the direction of Executive Chef Franco Console, creates fresh, flavorful, innovative, regionally-inspired dishes that are the hallmark of fine Pacific Northwest cuisine.

One of Chef Franco’s guiding tenets is “know our farmers,” and he is passionate about creating a connection between his restaurant’s guests and local farmers, ranchers, distillers, and winemakers.

Larks (Pork Chop) - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

My halibut dinner at Larks was succulent and perfectly cooked. So good – I can’t believe I ate the whole thing!

Larks Restaurant {at Ashland Springs Hotel}
212 East Main Street
Ashland, OR 97520
541.488.5558

Out on the Town: Shakespeare & Beyond

I wonder if Angus Bowmer had a glimmer, when he put on Ashland’s first three-day Shakespeare Festival back in 1935, of what his vision would become, and how it would someday shape everything – from pop culture to politics – for his town and far beyond.

“There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”
– from Hamlet

Visiting Ashland during Shakespeare Festival season and not seeing at least one play is like visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. It simply isn’t done. But don’t worry if Shakespeare isn’t your jam, because the Festival puts on a broad selection of productions – everything from classic, long-bearded tragedies to fresh, provocative comedies to political activist dramas, and everything in between. There is sure to be something on the lineup that will bring you to your feet.

With a season that now stretches from February to October, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is the largest repertory theater in the United States. Visit the OSF website for information about tickets and plays.

Allen Elizabethan Theater - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Empty stage, ready for ‘Beauty and the Beast.’ [There are no photos allowed during the actual play.]

^{Disclosure: My dinner at Larks and ticket to Beauty and the Beast were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

McCully House, Jacksonville, Oregon

Corner Sign - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon}

May 29 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Take a drive on The Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

Troon Vineyard: Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon Travel} | The Good Hearted Woman

Extending for 50 miles, from the California border to Grants Pass along the Applegate River, the fertile Applegate Valley is home to “fragrant lavender fields, meticulous small family farms growing organic produce, roaming herds of grass-fed cattle, and numerous vineyards and wineries.” [Applegate Valley Wine Trail] So whether you are on a quest for the perfect bottle of Oregon wine or just want to take a beautiful drive through Southern Oregon back-country, you’ll find what you’re looking for on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail.

At this time, the Applegate Valley Oregon Vintners Association includes eighteen unique wineries that produce a diverse array of wines. Today, we’re sharing some highlights from four of those wineries – a perfect itinerary for a day of sightseeing and wine-tasting!

Wooldridge Creek Winery, Creamery & Charcuterie
Troon Vineyard
Schmidt Family Vineyards
Red Lily Vineyards

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

Specialties: Small batch estate wines, sustainability and stewardship, congenial conversation, artisan cheeses, and charcuterie.

First established as a “hobby” vineyard back in the ’70’s, Wooldridge Creek has evolved over the decades into a thriving vineyard, winery, creamery and charcuterie business. Owners Ted, Mary, Greg, and Kara adhere to seven-generation principles, a philosophy that is clearly reflected in their dedication to both community and stewardship of the land.

At Wooldridge Creek, their commitment to sustainability is at the heart of everything they do. They take their role as stewards of the land seriously, and have maintained certifications for the Salmon Safe and LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) programs as well as Pacific Power’s Blue Sky Renewable Energy Program for over a decade. They also participate in their local watershed protection association.

On a personal note, this was one of the friendliest, most welcoming tasting rooms we’ve visited – I could have hung out there all day! (I went back twice in one month, if that says anything.) The grounds are beautiful, with broad, sweeping views of the valley; and the entire place has a much less “fussy” vibe than many tasting rooms do… in other words, it very much appealed to my inner hippie.

In a move very much in keeping with their role as “stewards of the land,” Wooldridge Creek opened their CrushPad Creamery in 2015, making it Oregon’s first joint creamery and winery. The creamery is located on the winery’s crush pad and offers visitors a chance to view the entire cheese making process. They currently source cow and goat milk from two local organic dairies, and make many styles of cheese, from fresh and soft to aged, hard cheeses.

In 2017, Wooldridge made another addition: charcuterie – fermenting local vegetables and curing a selection of meats – to their repertoire. They offer three platters to complement their wine flights: a cheese platter, a charcuterie platter, or a combination of the two.

Wooldridge Creek has 56 acres planted in twelve varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo.

When you visit, be sure to say hello to the winery cat!

Wooldridge Creek Winery
818 Slagle Cr. Rd
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.6364
admin@wcwinery.com

Tasting Room Hours: 11-5 Daily
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon} #traveloregon #travelsouthernoregon Click To Tweet

TROON VINEYARD

Specialties: Zinfandels, unique blends, and “Good Times & Fine Wines”

In 1972, Dick Troon planted one of the first vineyards in the Applegate Valley. Since that time, the Troon estate has grown to 100 acres with over 40 acres of grapes planted. Known for their signature Zinfandels and unique blends, they are also pioneering varietals such as Vermentino and Tannat. (Their Druid Fluids blend is especially popular.)

The exceptionally well-kept grounds give visitors plenty of options for relaxing, including bocce ball courts, picnic tables, and a giant chess game. Guests can play while they enjoy a plate of cheeses and a glass of wine… or they can just sit back and take in the view.

It has always been my assertion that everything tastes better when served with a smile, and Troon wines definitely support this claim. In the last year, Mr B and I have visited both Troon tasting rooms a couple of times, and found their staff to be enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and exceptionally friendly. (BIG kudos to the team in Carlton – they are amazing!)

Troon Vineyard
1475 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, Oregon 97527
541.846.9900
tastingroom@troonvineyard.com

Troon Carlton Wine Bar
250 N. Kutch Street
Carlton, OR 97111
503.852.3084
carlton@troonvineyard.com

Tasting Room Hours: Open Daily 11 am – 5 pm, June-Aug 11 am – 6 pm
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Big reds, country charm, wood-fired pizza, beautiful gardens, and Northwest ambience

Wine and wine making have always been a passion for Cal Schmidt, and in 2000 with the purchase of the old Bennett Ranch on the fertile Kubli Bench, he and his wife Judy realized his lifelong dream of owning a vineyard.

What struck me most about Schmidt Family Vineyards was the care and attention that have been put creating a “complete experience.” In addition to the vineyards themselves, there is a large, picturesque pond, several acres of herb and flower gardens, gazebos, and numerous walking paths for visitors to use as they unwind and enjoy in a beautiful, relaxing setting.

The Craftman-style tasting room at Schmidt Family Vineyards is absolutely stunning.

In addition to their estate wines, Schmidt Family Vineyards offers a quality menu to enhance your wine tasting experience as well, with all food made to order using farm fresh ingredients. We found the wood-fired pizzas to be quite tasty! (Their website also shares recipes, complete with tasting notes!)

Schmidt Family Vineyards

330 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541-846-9985

schmidt@sfvineyards.com

Tasting Room Hours: 7 days a week from 12-5pm. Open on Fridays from 12-8pm.
Food is served 12-4:30 pm, Thurs-Monday
Tasting Fee: $10 for the Vintner Flight & $12 for the Garden Flight (served in test tubes for easily touring the gardens).
The Vintner’s Flight is complimentary to Wine Club Members. The Garden Flight is 50% off for Wine Club Members.

RED LILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Spanish Centric Wines, scenic fall color, and cozy conversation.

Red Lily Vineyards is a small, family-owned winery committed to a single goal — producing the finest Spanish-inspired wines possible. Owners Les and Rachael Martin fell in love with Spanish wines years ago, and have “made it their life’s work to cultivate the highest quality wines possible.”

Like all many of the vineyards in the Applegate Valley, you can visit Red Lily Vineyards anytime, but I highly recommend that you put them on your fall wine-tour itinerary when the autumn chill sets the grounds ablaze with vibrant color.

Red Lily’s tasting room is a beautiful example of architectural reclamation. With views of both the valley and the Applegate River, this former feeder barn turned tasting room offers guests both inside and outside seating, an outdoor fireplace, and outdoor heaters to stay warm and cozy. When we visited, we found the prices to be reasonable and the tasting room staff extremely helpful.

Wine flights are served in a test-tube rack, which initially seemed a bit strange, but as it turned out, made a very practical presentation.

Varietals produced by Red Lily Vineyards include Albarino, Grenache, Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional.

Red Lily Vineyards

Les and Rachael Martin, Owners
11777 Hwy. 238
Jacksonville OR 97530

Phone: (541) 846-6800
Fax: (541) 846-0601
info@redlilyvineyards.com

Winter Hours (Nov-Apr) Thursday – Sunday
11:00 am – 5:00 pm

Summer Hours (May-Oct) Daily
11:00 am -5:00 pm

Tasting Fee: $5
(Refunded With Purchase of 2 Bottles of Wine)

^{Disclosure: My visit to Wooldridge Creek, Schmidt, and Troon Wineries, including tastings, were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

McCully House, Jacksonville, Oregon

McCully House Inn – Jacksonville, Oregon {Plus a Ghost Story!}

February 16 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Located in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon, the McCully House Inn is just a few short blocks from the town’s historic downtown district, with restaurants, watering holes, antique stores, artisan shops, and Brittfest within easy walking distance.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
The McCully House consists of seven deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I stayed in the McCully “Queen Room,” a second floor guest room that overlooks California Street and features a Queen sized pillow-top bed, a sitting area with a lovely two-sided antique desk, and a private bath. The accommodations were spacious, quiet, and private, and the bed was exceptionally comfortable.

Each McCully House Inn guestroom features a coffee maker, refrigerator, flat screen television, bottled water, Aveda bath products, and complimentary Wifi. Guests also receive a $10 certificate that con be used at one of five local restaurants, all within walking distance, for breakfast each day.

The McCully House Inn is the oldest home in Oregon currently operating as an inn. It has quite an interesting history, too. It was built in 1861 by John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, only to have him abandon it a year later (along with his wife, Jane, and their three children). Dr. McCully left Jane the McCully House, along with all his debt. To survive, Jane initially turned to baking bread and pies to support her family, and for a short time leased the house out to one Amos Rogers as a boarding house.

However, Jane was a trained teacher, and apparently a real go-getter, too. In June of 1862, she opened “Mrs McCully’s Seminary” – the town’s first school for girls – in her family’s old log cabin. By the end of 1862, her seminary had become so popular that she took over running McCully House once again, and held her classes there, where she provided advanced education for both girls and boys for generations of children from Jacksonville’s most prominent families.

That should be the end of the story, but it isn’t. It seems that some folks claim that the McCully House is haunted, although reports vary as to just whom is doing the haunting. The most renown story says the after John McCully died, his ghost returned to haunt the house he had left so abruptly. Mary Ann Ramsden, a long-time resident of McCully House, tells about guests claiming to have seen McCully’s ghost sitting calmly in a chair in their room; however, instead of inciting fear, his presence made them feel “comforted, like he was basically a nice guy.” Other McCully House guests have encountered the visage of an unidentified woman walking the halls and up and down the stairs. Have no fear though: all reports have been of the innocuous variety – footsteps, rocking, doors opening and closing and such. Nothing to get excited about. So far, that is…

If you’d like a peak at one of the luxury suites, you’re in luck! Check out this post from one of my traveling companions, Marlynn at Urban Bliss Life.

I very much enjoyed my stay at the McCully House Inn, and look forward to staying there again on future trips to Jacksonville.

McCully House
240 East California Street (Corner of California & Fifth Street)
{Part of Country House Inns Jacksonville}
Phone: (541) 899-2050

^{Disclosure: My stay at McCully House was complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

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Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

Southern Oregon Travel: Pennington Farms {+ Blackberry Buckle Recipe}

February 9 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make.

If you ever find yourself traveling through southern Oregon’s beautiful Applegate Valley between Medford and Grants Pass, Pennington Farms is one stop you must plan to make. I fell in love with the place the first time I visited.

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

So begins the saga of Pennington Farms, which welcomes visitors as soon as they step through the bakery door.

Founded by the Sam and Cathy Pennington back in the mid-‘90s, this 90-acre family-run farm now grows between 38-50 varieties of berries each year, including many hard-to-find heirloom varieties. As stewards of the land, the Pennington family is committed to a farming philosophy that relies on organic, biodynamic methods, with a goal of working in harmony with the earth’s natural rhythm.

The Country Bakery at Pennington Farms is a delight for the senses and aromatherapy for the soul. Beautiful scratch-made pastries, pies, and cookies, homemade jams and syrups. Surfboards from a former life decorate the walls and seasonal berries line the shelves. Good vibes abound.

Pennington Farms focuses on cultivating harder-to-grow heirloom berries, which typically produce fewer, smaller berries that must be picked by hand. The trade-off for this extra labor is an intensity of true berry flavor that, according to Cathy Pennington, newer hybrid varieties simply don’t deliver.

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Berry season is fleeting and fresh berries off the vine have a very short shelf life; nevertheless, with just a minimum of effort you can have berries year-round.

When you bring fresh berries home, cull them and immediately discard any moldy or overripe berries.
Put the remaining berries, unwashed, into a container lined with paper towels to absorb any moisture.
Do not wash berries until just before eating, and then only briefly in cold water.
To freeze berries, distribute dry berries in a single layer on a clean cookie sheet and put them in the freezer until frozen. Remove from freezer just long enough to pour into a plastic freezer container or sealable freezer bag and return them to the freezer immediately. Berries can be frozen for up to one year.
When baking with frozen berries, do not thaw before using.

5 from 5 votes

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Course Dessert

Prep Time 30 minutes

Cook Time 1 hour

Total Time 1 hour 30 minutes

Servings 8

Author Pennington Farms, Grants Pass, OR

Ingredients

Batter:

2 cups flour
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup butter softened
¾ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries

Topping:

½ cup flour
½ cup sugar
¼ cup butter

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x9 baking dish.
In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
In a medium mixing bowl, beat butter on high until pale and fluffy. Add sugar and continue mixing until they are thoroughly creamed. Beat in egg.
With mixer on low, add flour mixture and milk to creamed mixture a little at a time, alternating between the two and beating until smooth.
Spoon batter into prepared pan. Evenly distribute berries over top.

Topping

In a small bowl, combine flour and sugar, and then cut in butter with a pastry blender, fork (or your fingers) until the mixture resembles oatmeal. Sprinkle over berries.
Bake in preheat oven 50-60 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm, preferably with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

To get to Pennington Farms, take the “long way” between Grants Pass and Medford on the Jacksonville-Williams Highway [Oregon Route 238]. The Pennington Farms bakery and farm market are open almost year round, and their products are available at the farmers’ markets in Ashland, Medford and Grants Pass, as well as specialty shops throughout the area.

Pennington Farms
11341 Williams Hwy
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.0550
pnnngtnj@aol.com

My visit to Penningrton Farms was included as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own.

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

January 18 By Renée ♥ 23 Comments

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

3 Days in Jacksonville [Travel Oregon]
Things to Do in Jacksonville [TripAdvisor]
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Jacksonville [Urban Bliss Life]
I Spent the Night in Historic Jacksonville [Melissa Kaylene]

My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. As always, all opinions and images (except as noted) are my own.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Rogue Creamery {+ 24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes}

November 10 By Renée ♥ 5 Comments

In my last post, I introduced you to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor, a small alliance of artisan culinary shops in Central Point, Oregon, and shared our experiences at Lillie Belle Farms with Jeff Shepherd and his amazing chocolates. Today, it’s all about the Cheese.

Specifically, Blue Cheese…

… creamy, salty, savory, delicious, handcrafted, award-winning, internationally-acclaimed Rogue Creamery Blue Cheese.

For many years, I erroneously thought that blue cheese, Roquetfort, Gorgonzola and the like were distinctly different cheeses. And they are… but they aren’t. Like Swiss- and cheddar-style cheeses, there are a wide variety of blue cheeses, each with its own unique flavor and textures, but they can ofttimes be used interchangeably in recipes. So before we go any farther, let’s take a moment to discuss what blue cheese is.

Blue Cheese Basics

Blue cheese is most often made from cow, sheep, or goat milk.
Blue cheese is made by culturing milk with Penicillium, a type of mold.
Different blue cheeses are cultured in various ways, using unique strains of Penicullium, giving them their distinct flavor, texture, and aroma.
In the European Union, many blue cheeses (e.g., Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton) are protected, and can bear their name only if they have been made in a particular region.

Some Popular Varieties of Blue Cheese

Cabrales – Traditionally made from mixing goat and sheep’s milk together, Cabrales has a strong, spicy flavor.
Danish Blue – This strong blue cheese is creamy, with a semi-soft texture.
Dorset Blue Vinney – This English blue cheese is made with unpasteurized, skimmed cow’s milk, and has a hard texture, a crusty outer layer, and a strong aroma and taste.
Gorgonzola – Made with either cow or goat’s milk (sometimes both), Gorgonzola is a firm, creamy cheese with a salty and often slightly sweet taste.
Roquefort – Famously green-veined, Roquefort has a tangy, salty flavor with sweet undertones.
Stilton – This semi-soft cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, and has a strong aroma and outstanding flavor.

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

There’s something comforting and wonderful about the rustic feel of a real, honest-to-goodness (emphasis on the goodness!) cheese shop, and the Rogue Creamery is about as honest a cheese shop as they come. Founded in 1933 at the height of the depression, Rogue Creamery began producing blue cheese in 1954. Today, they continue to draw both inspiration and resources from Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, and offer award-winning varieties of outstanding handcrafted blue cheese, cheddar cheese, and TouVelle.

Step inside to sample cheeses to your heart’s content. Hungry travelers can order one of their crazy-good panini-style grilled cheese sandwiches, prepared with more than a generous amount of cheese. A great place to pack a perfect picnic, Rogue Creamery also offers a carefully curated selection of deli items, crackers, fruit, beer, and wine, as well as local artisan jams, jellies and sauces. The staff at the shop is helpful and knowledgeable, and will be more than happy to help you with your selections.

PRO TIP: There are always samples available, but if something you want to try isn’t out, all you need to do it ask.

The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. {Gilbert K. Chesterton} Click To Tweet

Rogue Creamery Notes:

Smokey Blue: Referred to in-house as “Beginner Blue,” this smooth, smokey blue packs in all of the flavor (and then some) without the harsh, bitey quality of some blue cheeses. This classic Roquefort-style blue cheese is cold smoked sixteen hours with Oregon Hazelnut shells, resulting in a sweet, creamy, smoky flavor. It crumbles well, and is “easy to eat” as blue cheese goes, and pairs well with well-rounded “food” wines that are on the fruity side and lighter on tannins and acidity.
LaDiDa Lavender Cheddar: I know – it sounds weird, but Mr B and I both love this uniquely floral cheese. LaDiDa would be perfect on a dessert tray with chocolate or scones, and paired with a light dessert wine.
Caveman Blue: Full-bodied, buttery, and AMAZING! Rogue Creamery uses a unique aging environment to create this golden-hued blue that tastes of sweet, fresh buttermilk with hints of tropical fruit. Caveman’s earthy undertones pair well with a wide range of beverages, from bold reds to sweeter desert wines to full-flavored Stouts.
Blue Heaven (Powdered Cheese): Blue Heaven is a proprietary blend of Oregon Blue, Oregonzola, Crater Lake Blue and special reserve blue cheeses. Perfect for sprinkling on salads, breads, popcorn, nuts, and anything else you can think of.

PRO TIP: Not a fan of dry, tannin-rich red wines? Me either. But next time you have the chance, try some with a bite of blue cheese. You may be pleasantly surprised (as I was) to discover that the pairing opens up whole new venues to you. Tannins literally bind to the cheese’s protein and fat, measurably softening the astringent qualities of the tannins, and making the entire tasting experience smoother in the process.

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Blue Cheese is an amazingly versatile cheese; equally perfect on a fruit and cheese plate or as a stand-out ingredient in your next meal. Here’s a little Blue Inspiration 😉 from some of my favorite bloggers.

** Recipes are pictured in order, clockwise from the top left corner of each image.

Disclosure: My first trip to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own.

At the Corner of Music & Chocolate {Lillie Belle Farms}

November 2 By Renée ♥ 21 Comments

Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Tucked just off I-5 in the unassuming southern Oregon town of Central Point, you can find divine respite from the road in a luxurious trifecta of world-class cheese, wine, and chocolate. The Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor – aptly coined “a little stretch of heaven” – is a small grouping of distinct artisan shops that have formed a culinary alliance of sorts. Each shop offers on-site tastings, and they occasionally even collaborate on projects together. I have visited there not once, but twice in the last month, sampling prize-winning cheeses from Rogue Creamery, estate-grown wines from Ledger David Cellars, and hand-crafted chocolates from Lillie Belle Farms – all just steps from one another.

Today, however, it’s all about the Chocolate.

Lillie Belle Farms founder Jeff Shepherd abides at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens. Like an electric anthem, Jeff’s chocolates are a passionate, vibrant expression of his art.

We are savage Rock ‘N’ Roll fans at Lillie Belle! Having attended literally thousands of loud live shows and seen hundreds of bands both old and new, Rock ‘N’ Roll is an integral part of our creative process. You will always hear music pulsing out of our kitchen. In fact, it’s impossible to separate our chocolate life from our musical life.

~ Jeff Shepherd, Lillie Belle Farms

[Cue: Sugar Magnolia] 😉

The first time I visited Lillie Belle Farms {on a Travel Oregon press tour}, we arrived right at closing time, and Jeff was in the process of transforming himself from chocolate artisan and entrepreneur to band member and guitar player. Now, it might be helpful for me to note that, on this particular trip, most of my traveling companions were significantly younger than me and may have lacked the deep appreciation for the tie-dyed generation and all that we stand for. Jeff, on the other hand, falls approximately into my age demographic, and is every good thing you think of when you think Tie-Dyed Southern Oregon Musician + Chocolate. In other words, we kinda connected. I mean, what’s not to like about a guy who keeps a set of portable baffle boards in his chocolate kitchen so that he can set up for band practice at a moment’s notice? So while all the rest of my party sprinted across the parking lot to Ledger David for our prearranged wine-tasting, I lingered a few extra minutes at Lillie Belle, chatting with Jeff about his current inspirations and future plans; and while I can’t share everything we talked about at the moment, I can tell you that there is a lot to look forward to!

Just a few weeks after my first visit, I had the opportunity to stop at Lillie Belles again, this time with Mr B. We arrived on a Sunday morning just before the doors opened, and there was already a line waiting to get in! Nevertheless, Jeff greeted us warmly and gave us the full VIP treatment, including a tour of the inner sanctum – his kitchen/band practice space. He and Mr B talked band life and bantered about musical preferences and what songs they had covered. Jeff showed us the corner of the kitchen dedicated to Elvis, and his expansive wall of Grateful Dead covers, and his amazing custom traveling chocolate cart covered with backstage passes and concert tickets. (I can’t remember every one, but we visited the week Tom Petty died, so I do remember there being many, many passes for Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers.) By the end of our visit, I was practically ready to invite Jeff and his crew up north for dinner and an impromptu jam session. I’d even let him bring dessert. (hehehe 😉 )

(Want to learn more about Jeff and his “ecclectic mind bending and transformative chocolate madness”? Check out his very entertaining Lillie Belle Farms blog.)

But enough about Jeff. Let’s talk about his chocolates.

Lillie Belle Farms, named for Jeff’s wife Belle and daughter Lillie, now moves some 20,000 pounds of chocolate a year, in the form of handmade gourmet chocolate bars, decadent ganache-filled chocolates, liquor-infused chocolates, truffles, fresh berry cups, cherry cordials, and chocolates filled with handmade fondants, butter creams, caramels, and toasted nuts. They even have a Smokey Blue Cheese Truffle Spread; a collaboration with Rogue Creamery that combines an amazing, award-winning Smokey Blue Cheese, organic milk chocolate, and toasted almonds into a surprisingly satisfying spreadable tangy chocolate concoction.

Cheese and chocolate spread notwithstanding, one of the things I appreciated most about Lillie Belle Farms chocolates was the simplicity of the flavor profiles that they employ. What I mean is, lately I’ve been to some food events where I’ve sampled confections that intentionally challenge my palate with a confusing amalgamation of flavors that require me to do some serious cranial calisthenics as my brain tries to isolate and delineate each component. (Chili cilantro salted coffee cream, anyone?) Conversely, the overwhelming majority of Lillie Belle chocolates are single-flavored bites, allowing you to lean back and simply enjoy the experience as the cocoa flavanols rouse your brain and the velvety chocolate caresses your tongue.

{Tangentially, there is some science behind why that strange Blue Cheese ‘n Chocolate combo works, but in a nutshell, it’s apparently because they share at least 73 flavor compounds.}

After much consideration, Mr B and I took home a small fortune’s worth of luxury chocolates – every one a winner. Here are just a few of the standouts from our haul…

Recommendations & Notes:

Lavender caramels {Lavender infused caramels topped with Fleur de Sel salt}: So good. Just. So. Good.
Maker’s Mark Cups {Filled with pecan butter, dark chocolate and a Maker’s Mark whiskey ganache, and topped with a large caramelized pecan}: Mr B LOVED this one. I can’t tell you what I think about it because, he ate it up too fast.
Frangelico Cups {Dark Chocolate cup filled with a creamy, Frangelico infused mousse}: Light and sweet without being cloying, this was one of my favorites. Because Frangelico. And Chocolate. Oh my…
Raspberry Ganache {organically grown raspberries, infused in a dark chocolate ganache, covered with more dark chocolate and finished with a raspberry floral design}: Bright, clean raspberry flavor paired perfectly with a smooth dark chocolate.
Marionberry Bon Bon {organic Marionberry preserves encased in a dark chocolate shell}: Sublime. As far as I’m concerned, you just cannot beat Marionberries and dark chocolate together. Smooth, well-balanced, and deeply satisfying.

Chocolate doesn't ask silly questions. Chocolate Understands. Click To Tweet

You can find Lillie Belle Farms chocolates at Whole Foods, Made in Oregon stores, and Powell’s among other places; or you can order it online. Or do what we did and include it in your next trip to the Rogue River Valley. Lillie Belle Farms is open seven days a week in Central Point, just northwest of Medford on Highway 99.

Lillie Belle Farms
211 N. Front St.
Central Point, OR 97502
(541) 664-2815
1 (888) 899-2022

Shop Hours:
Monday to Friday: 9–5
Saturday: 9–6
Sunday: 11–5

Disclosure: My first trip to Lillie Belle Farms was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own.

Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

Stroll: Lithia Park

Rejuvenate [or maybe not]: Lithia Water

Discover: Downtown Ashland

Nosh: Greenleaf Restaurant

Flashy Photo-op: Guanajuato Mural

Fancy-Pants Eats: Larks

Out on the Town: Shakespeare & Beyond

Take a drive on The Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

TROON VINEYARD

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

RED LILY VINEYARDS

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make.

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life And ended up finding his wife. The couple got married and had quite a clan Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life” So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Ingredients

Batter:

Topping:

Instructions

Topping

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Explore: Applegate Valley

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

Unwind: Brittfest

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

Blue Cheese Basics

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

Rogue Creamery Notes:

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Main Dishes

Salads

Sides

Baked Goods

Appetizers & Small Bites

Dressings, Sauces, Spreads & Dips

Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Today, however, it’s all about the Chocolate.

Recommendations & Notes:

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”