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The Good Hearted Woman

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What We Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival {Buffalo, Wyoming}

February 28 By Renée 12 Comments

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted WomanThe only real connection to the North American Basque community that I personally have is an impossibly thin thread that runs from me through the amazing woman who taught me to ride horses to the Basque man she was married to for many years.

Rena was a former Miss Rodeo Oregon and beautiful beyond words. I was nine. She taught me to races barrels and jump hay bales and ride faster than the wind. She later married a man from the Nevada Basque community, and once while traveling with my parents to Arizona, we took a side trip to see her. One thing that still stands out to me about our visit – besides seeing Rena and her new baby – was the vast, arid landscape of the Nevada range and the half an hour we had to wait on the dusty dirt road while the largest herd of sheep I have ever seen passed across in front of us.

Ever since that long-ago visit, I’ve had a mild fascination with the unique, mysterious Basque community. So when Mr B and I motored into Buffalo, Wyoming last summer for lunch and saw the “North American Basque Festival” banners hanging across Main Street,  I was intrigued and excited to see what was happening.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basques are an “indigenous ethnic group,” unique unto themselves, and may be the oldest ethnic group in Europe. Neither French nor Spanish, their homeland lies between the base of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, comprised of seven traditional provinces that bridge the border between Spain and France. Likewise, their unique language – which they call Euskara – is like no other language spoken in Europe – or the world.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

When I was doing research for this post, I tried to find out how approximately how many people of Basque heritage now live in North America, but reported numbers varied wildly – from less than 100,000 to over a million. What I can tell you is most Basques in North America are descended from 19th century emigrants, and large Basque communities can be found across the western United States and in some Canadian provinces.

Basques began moving to Wyoming in the early 1900s to herd sheep, and the Buffalo continues to celebrate its long history with the Basque community. A small flock of bronze sheep and a bronze herding dog on Main Street remind visitors of Buffalo’s long history with the Basque community. As the plaque that accompanies the bronzes reads:

The heritage of the Basque people runs deep in the history of Johnson County [Wyoming].  Coming from a mountainous, agrarian culture in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, they took to the open range of Wyoming, bringing colorful traditions and a knowledge of raising sheep. They depended on their dogs, often Border Collies as companions and helper to protect and herd the sheep. The Basque farmers remain influential throughout this community to the present day.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

Basques in the North America have embraced their new home, even as they continue to honor their unique heritage. One of the ways they do this is through the many gatherings and festivals that are held in small towns across “Basque country.”

The North American Basque Festival, sponsored by the North American Basque Organization [NABO], has been held annually since 1979, with the location rotating each year. (Buffalo, Wyoming will host the festival and convention again again in 2021.) The three-day festival includes traditional food, music, and dancing; and featured artisans and vendors all celebrating the Basque culture.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

If you happen to be a knitter, crocheter, or spinner, you will love attending a Basque Festival! There were skeins and skeins of wool roving and beautiful, hand-dyed yarns for purchase everywhere!

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

The line for barbecued lamb was ridiculous, stretching for well over a block, to the great disappointment to Mr B. (I don’t eat lamb, so no tears here. It did smell delicious though.)

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

(Hungry for a traditional Basque meal? Try out this recipe for Basque Braised Chicken With Peppers [Chicken Basquaise].)

Everywhere we turned we saw lauburu motifs. The lauburu (or Basque cross) is a symbol of the Basque Country and the unity of the Basque people.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Basque Sheep Wagons

The coolest thing we saw at the Festival was the collection of “Karro kampos,’ or traditional Basque sheep wagons. Basque sheep wagons, which we learned are an invention of the American West, reached their height of popularity in the 1910’s. They continue to be used by some sheep herders, particularly in Idaho, even today.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

No two wagons that we saw were exactly the same; however, as we peeked into each one, we noticed certain consistencies. For example, the door was always at the front of the wagon, and the bed was always at the back. Most vintage wagons (like the one below) had a wash-pan hanging on the door, a wood stove to the left of the door (going in), and a stove pipe coming out the top.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

I love the detailing on this little cast iron wood stove. This wagon has a stove-pipe popping out the top.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Other wagons had more contemporary interiors, with gas stoves, up-to-date cabinetry, and tiled floors.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

This wagon – proudly displayed by the 4th generation Basque family of George Etchemenoy – was a work of art. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship on the wagon, along with the matching child-sized wagon and wooden tractor, was outstanding.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Check out the turquoise inlay on the front of the wooden tractor.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

If you have the opportunity to attend a Basque festival, we enthusiastically encourage you to go – you will have a great time and probably learn something in the process! Visit the North American Basque Organization website to learn more.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman


Filed Under: Travel, Wyoming Tagged With: festivals

One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

January 18 By Renée 23 Comments

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville  is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites.  I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

The McCully House - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Jacksonville Trolley - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Shops - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

The Cheesemonger's Wife - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

The Cheesemonger's Wife - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley - Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Applegate Valley - Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Boomtown Saloon - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

  • Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
  • Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
  • Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
  • Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
  • Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links: 

  • 3 Days in Jacksonville [Travel Oregon]
  • Things to Do in Jacksonville [TripAdvisor]
  • Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Jacksonville [Urban Bliss Life]
  • I Spent the Night in Historic Jacksonville [Melissa Kaylene]

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Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history. | Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

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Southern Oregon Travel & Food on GHW

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One Day in Ashland, Oregon

Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

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Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail

Take a drive on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

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One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

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McCully House Inn - Jacksonville, Oregon {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

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Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle – the recipe for which they have generously shared with us -is just one of the many delicious treats you can find at Pennington Gardens in Oregon’s Applegate Valley.

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Rogue Creamery {+ 24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes}

This stop at the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor is all about cheese... creamy, salty, savory, delicious, handcrafted, award-winning, internationally-acclaimed Rogue Creamery Blue Cheese.

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At the Corner of Music & Chocolate {Lillie Belle Farms}

Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Disclosure: My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history. | Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Filed Under: One Day in..., Oregon, Pacific Northwest, Southern Oregon, Travel Tagged With: festivals, music, Oregon, Southern Oregon

Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival

April 12 By Renée 4 Comments

Tulips 8

Image courtesy of Gaelynn M. (My little sister!)

Last Wednesday my sister and I had the rare chance to spend the day together, and her only request was to go “somewhere pretty.” So I took her to one of the prettiest places I know of in the Portland area – the Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival in Woodburn. This time of year, the tulip fields are a photographers dream – they are so full of vibrant color that images almost paint themselves into the camera.

Tulip Festival 4.9.1

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Tulip Festival 4.9

Image courtesy of Gaelynn M.

The Tulip Festival, which began in 1985, is a tradition started by Ross and Dorothy Iverson, who raised their children on the 40-some acre family farm, and are passing the tradition onto them and their grandchildren.

The tulip fields are rotated each year with other crops, and this year they are planted a little farther out than recent years. It’s a bit of a walk, but it is definitely worth the effort. You also have the option of riding a shuttle out to the fields, or on a cow train or tulip cart, the latter being one of the numerous children’s attractions at the Festival.

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I love how this filter highlights the contrast in the Leen Van Der Mark tulips so beautifully!

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Does it bother anyone else that this bench is tilted ever so slightly as compared to the horizon?

Tulip stems can be purchased on the spot, or you can order bulbs from their extensive catalog to be shipped just in time for planting season. Mr. B and I did this a couple of years ago, and I remember being so excited when our bulbs arrived in the mail in the fall.

IMG_1840

I fell in love with this tile piece, and I should have bought it, but I didn’t. However, {ahem…May birthday here} you have my permission to nudge Mr. B in this direction. I’m sure they would ship it!

The Tulip Festival has a wonderful gift shop full of all things Dutch and tulipy.   Food and beverages can be purchased on-site at their Tulip Café, including sandwiches, sausages, burgers, fish, and chips, ice cream, elephant ears, kettle corn, espresso, beer and wine.  Nearby in the Crafters marketplace, you can watch a wooden shoe-making demonstration, browse booths for crafts and art, and enjoy local food offerings.

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The tulip farm’s collection of old farming equipment was pretty cool.

Tulips 15

Image courtesy of Gaelynn M.

Walking through the fields got me to thinking about Hazel, an elderly woman I used to work for many, many years ago.  Hazel and her husband, George ran a craft store – Hazel’s – in the center of town.  Something of a local legend, Hazel was well known for surveying the store from her “perch” above on the mezzanine, from where she would offer her opinion, solicited or not, on just about everything to those below.  I remember one time when she overheard a customer’s concerns that some colors Hazel had suggested for a project might clash.

“I want you to think about every flower you can think of,” Hazel said. “Can you remember ever thinking to yourself, ‘Hey those flowers there clash with those other ones?’” When the little woman shook her head, Hazel went on, “Well, there you go. Flowers never clash with one another. You never see anything in nature clashing.” Then Hazel stalked off shaking her head at the woman. She had no patience for people who would not heed her advice.

I never forgot that exchange, and it has influenced more than my art in the years since. Because Hazel was absolutely right, and here the tulip fields bear it out – bright pinks and deep purples grow right alongside vibrant oranges and sunny yellows, and together they create a captivatingly beautiful color palette.

Funny thing about Hazel: she was as endearing as she was opinionated, and the town is a little less colorful now that she is gone.

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The Tulip Festival has something for everyone with a full calendar of events now through May 4th, and includes everything from photography classes to a chicken BBQ to an Easter Egg Hunt.  If you live in the Portland area, take time to attend – you will come away with some beautiful memories.

Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival

33814 S. Meridian Rd., Woodburn, OR 97071
Festival & Gift Shop Hours: 9am – 6pm daily through May 4th
Admission: $5 bikes & motorcycles, $10 a carload, $20 buses
Season Pass: $40

Disclosure: Nothing to disclose – I paid my admission, walked through the fields, took some pictures and came home to share them with you. I received no compensation of any kind for this post.

 

Filed Under: Oregon, Pacific Northwest Tagged With: festivals, flowers, gardening, spring

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