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The Good Hearted Woman

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Take a Romantic Winter Getaway to Hood River, Oregon

February 22 By Renée 10 Comments

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Every year for Valentine’s Day, Mr B and I take a little romantic getaway. It doesn’t matter if the holiday falls in the middle of the week or on a weekend – we always take at least one day off and head for a quiet destination, usually close to home. This year, as we are wont to do, we headed for the Columbia Gorge.

We left for our getaway after work on a Tuesday afternoon, and drove up to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, arriving well after dark. Stepping into the lobby, we were promptly greeted by an amazingly friendly, enthusiastic hotel employee named Rick, who would act as our concierge, bell-hop, elevator operator, ice-bucket filler, doorman, and hotel historian during our stay.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel – once known as the “Waldorf of the West” – was built by Portland businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson in 1921. The elegant hotel has a rich history (complete with lots of ghost stories!), and at one time hosted such early film icons as Clara Bow, Rudolph Valentino, and Shirley Temple, as well as dignitaries like Presidents Roosevelt and Coolidge.

Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our third floor King room was lovely, with a 180° view of the Columbia River, a large bathroom (by 1921 standards), and a little electric fireplace. Having stayed in a standard room at the Columbia Gorge Hotel the distant past, I can tell you with confidence that our King room was far superior to a standard room. Most notably, it was about twice as big: the space allotted for a standard in 1921 is what realtors like to call “charming” and “cozy.” The King room we stayed was about the same size as a contemporary standard mid-range hotel room.

Window View - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Travel Tip: Weekday rates at the Columbia Gorge Hotel are often literally half that of weekend rates. If you can find the time during the week, it’s quite a deal!

The next morning when room service delivered our breakfast, we discovered that we had ordered twice as much food as we needed! Our breakfast croissants were huge, and each one came with a generous serving of O’Brien potatoes and an adorable little airplane-size bottle of ketchup. Everything arrived fresh, warm, and delicious. No worries about leftovers, either – after we finished eating, we popped our leftovers into the little room fridge to save for a midnight snack and set out to plan our day.

Mama Bear - Downtown Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Any other Mama Bears out there? ? {Sculpture by Ann Fleming; part of Hood River BIG ART Walking Tour}

We had a loose plan to spend the day touring and tasting at a few of the nearby wineries, so we started our tour in downtown Hood River Oregon, where we stopped in at a cool little espresso bar called Ground to enjoy a warm beverage while charted out our route. Being there on a Wednesday in the middle of winter made our choices very easy – only three of the fifteen or so wineries around the city of Hood River were open for us to visit.

Ground 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our first stop was Cathedral Ridge Winery, one of the only vineyards in Hood River with tasting room hours every day of the week year-round. The winery is located high above the Columbia on the west end of Hood River, with sweeping views of Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the south west. We spent the better part of an hour in the Cathedral Ridge tasting room, where we were greeted warmly and treated like old friends. Pours for our tasting were generous, and extra varieties were introduced as we discussed our preferences with our attentive and knowledgeable host.

Winery - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

The views from Hood River Oregon wine country are tranquil and relaxing.

After we finished our tasting and purchased a few bottles to take home, we wandered outside to enjoy a walk around the grounds, where wooden benches and outdoor tables set up for picnickers dot the property. The middle of February was a little too chilly for a picnic though, so we instead opted for a quick selfie before we got back in the car.

Me & Me B - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Look! We took a selfie!

We next ventured a little farther out into the country, where we found the Phelps Creek tasting room, which like Cathedral Ridge is open daily and year-round. The tasting room is located on the beautiful Hood River Golf Course, the features wines produced from nearby Estate-grown grapes. This small boutique winery focuses on estate grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; annually producing 5,000 cases total of all varietals.

Phelps Creek 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

One of the things Mr B and I like best about going out with just a tissue-paper plan is you just never know who or what will happen to surprise you. While we were visiting with the host at Phelps Creek, tasting room associate and sports photographer Brian Robb walked in, sat down at the bar and introduced himself. We were in no hurry, so we spent the next half hour chatting with Brian about some of the events he has shot around the world; in particular his experiences photographing World Skiing Racing Championships and the Olympic Winter Games. We thoroughly enjoyed both the company and the conversation at Phelps Creek.

(I have always to laugh at myself when I meet “action” photographers – I can barely get food to hold still for a good shot. Moving targets are usually way beyond my photography skillset.)

Phelps Creek 2 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

After finishing at Phelps Creek, we made the short drive back into town and grabbed a late lunch at The Trillium Cafe in downtown Hood River before stopping at our last tasting room – Stave & Stone.

Stave & Stone 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Esthetically, Stave & Stone is the poshest of the three tasting rooms we visited, and the newest as well. The space itself is large and open, with lots of warm hues, subdued lighting, and naturally finished woods all lending a cozy feel. Besides the tasting bar, there are plenty of small gathering spots, too – comfy chairs, cozy booths, cafe tables, and a couch or two.

Stave & Stone 2 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our tasting room host was upbeat, friendly, and knowledgeable. As she poured our tastings, she enthusiastically shared a little of the history of this five generation winery with us – including the story of “The Old Man” – the last orchard apple tree standing on the family farm. The tree has been immortalized by local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized in an intricate metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

[This Gravenstein tree] symbolizes five generations of Fletchers, a touchstone of the legacy that began with apples and pears. The orchard has been transitioning into a vineyard for awhile now, but we’re keeping this ancient fellow. It is so old, it is nearly hollowed out inside, yet it still manages to produce blossoms and fruit every year. ~ Stave & Stone

Stave & Stone 3 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized the old family Gravenstein tree in a metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

There was still plenty of daylight left when we left Stave & Stone, so we drove back to the hotel and took a stroll around the grounds, first exploring the south side in the front of the hotel.

Gardens - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Columbia Gorge Hotel – Hood River Oregon

The Columbia Gorge Hotel maintains seven acres of beautifully manicured gardens. Phelps Creek (for which the aforementioned winery is named) runs through the property, and natural water features dominate the landscape.

Ducks - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

I tried to get the ducks to pose for a picture, but they weren’t interested. 😉

Statue - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

On the river-side of the Columbia Gorge Hotel, you will find Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, where Phelps Creek flows and falls 207 feet into the Columbia. Once known as Lullaby Falls (apparently for the sleep-inducing properties that its soothing water sounds have on hotel guests) Wah Gwin Gwin now takes its name from a Chinook term meaning “rushing waters.”

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, behind the Columbia Gorge Hotel – Hood River Oregon

Viewer - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

We love the views of the Columbia River from the rear of the hotel. * Hood River Oregon *

Most people on a romantic getaway like ours would probably choose to dine on a fancy dinner in the hotel’s posh restaurant, Simon’s Cliffhouse and Valentino Bar. However, Mr B and I have along-standing tradition of homemade Shepherd’s Pie on our Valentine’s getaway, no matter where we are. Sometimes it takes a little creativity to pull it off, but so far, we’ve always managed to make it happen. This year, our room had a nice refrigerator to keep things cold, but no microwave to warm it up. Our buddy Rick-the-Awesome-Hotel-Guy saved the day by heating it up for us.

Shepherd's Pie is classic comfort food. One bite of this time-tested family favorite will wrap you in a blanket as warm as a winter fire. It's just that good. {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman

The next morning, we packed up and hopped in the car to make our way back to Portland. Which brings me to this – the first time I’ve seen the Gorge in the daylight with my own eyes since “the fire.”

 * * * * *

FEBRUARY 2018 – Columbia Gorge Recovery: Post Eagle Creek Fire [2017] 

If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping you’ll stay with me, because I need to turn a corner and get serious for a moment. I was more than a little anxious about going to the Gorge at all this year. In fact, I’ve consciously avoided driving through it in the daylight ever since September 2, 2017, when a carelessly set wildfire took off and eventually burned 48,831 acres in the heart of the Gorge, changing its landscape for generations.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

I wish I had taken some pictures while we were driving home that would illustrate the both the devastation and hope. Unfortunately, when Mr B and I were driving through, I was too busy crying to take any pictures. Many thanks to Staci W. [Crafty Staci] for sharing these images of the fire with us. They were taken on her phone from a moving sheriff’s car shortly after the fire started.

If you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest, you may not understand, but for many of us here, the Columbia River Gorge is far more than just the pretty place we keep our waterfalls. The Gorge is where we root our feet to the earth, and where we search our souls, and where we find our solace. When the Eagle Creek fire rushed through in the fall of 2017, it was as if someone had come in the dark of night and burned down our church. Our synagogue. Our mosque. Our sacred ground. 

So, I’m here to report to my PNW brothers and sisters who have not yet visited: what I saw from the highway gave me hope. Now, I know that most of the burn can’t be seen from the road, and we really won’t get a good feel for the whole of the loss until much later, but I did see more trees than I expected still standing tall. The high ridges, particularly on the west end of the Gorge, are lined with blackened evergreen skeletons, but there is far more life happening on the slopes than I imagined, even in the middle of winter. I may not ever see the Gorge in its full majesty again in my lifetime, but my grandchildren might, and that gives me hope.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

Businesses in the Gorge are waiting for people to return. They need us. If you are thinking of taking a getaway and you live in the Pacific Northwest, consider spending some time in the Gorge. It’s still there, waiting for you.

Wavy Line

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Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Wavy Line

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Filed Under: Oregon, Pacific Northwest, Travel Tagged With: Columbia Gorge, Getaways, Hood River, luxury hotels

Mosier Twin Tunnels {Hike}

February 27 By Renée 6 Comments

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

We decided to wrap up our Valentine’s weekend trip to Hood River by stretching our winter-weary hiking legs with a trip up to see the historic Twin Tunnels just west of Mosier, Oregon.  Really more of a stroll than a hike, this short 1.1 mile jaunt (one way, from the Mosier-side trail-head) offers some fabulous views of the Columbia River Gorge.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Once an important link in the scenic Columbia River Highway, the Mosier Twin Tunnels were constructed between 1919 and 1921. From the beginning, the tunnels and the nearby cliffs presented a trouble spot on the historic highway: rockfalls were common and accidents happened frequently.  Eventually abandoned in 1955 after the completion of Highway I-84, the tunnels were soon filled in with rubble and forgotten.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Eastern Portal – Mosier Twin Tunnels

Then, in the 1980’s, interest in restoring the old historic highway began to develop.  In 1995, with help of longtime Oregon Senator Mark Hatfield, work was begun to reopen the tunnels for tourist use. Rubble was removed from inside the tunnels, the walls were rebuilt, and the road was completely resurfaced.

The twin tunnels were reopened in July 2000 for bicycle and foot traffic, and are now part of the 4.6-mile-long “Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail.”

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

The hike itself is mostly flat, with just a slight elevation change, and paved, making it a smooth ride for cyclists and wheelchair hikers.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

I don’t know if it is always this way, but on the day we went, cyclists outnumbered walkers nealry two to one.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Hiking in from the Mosier side, the trail soon comes to the edge of the Gorge and turns west. Here, you’ll walk past stone guardrails and look down to a great view of Eighteen Mile Island, known locally as Chicken Charlie Island.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

This 10-acre island, once owned by one Charles Reither, was  significantly larger before the completion of Bonneville Dam in 1937, and was home to a chicken ranch and a small railroad. It is now the only privately owned island in the Columbia River Gorge.

Just over a half mile into the hike, a beautiful new stone-walled lookout has been built over the Columbia River, and a short distance past the lookout is the east portal of the east tunnel. The entrance to the Eastern Portal has been restored to very much the same as it was nearly 100 years ago (pavement and cement curbs notwithstanding).

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

The second tunnel has two windows, known as adits, looking out over the river. There are steps that once led to viewpoints, but these are now blocked to the public.  They make for some cool images though.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

Beyond the tunnels, the trail continues another 3.5 miles to the Mark O. Hatfield West Trailhead, near Hood River.

Mosier Twin Tunnels Hike

When we took this hike in mid-February, we were already finding the first signs of spring!

This hike was a beautiful way to end our weekend, and a great way to kick off the hiking season here in the Pacific Northwest.  Hopefully we will see you on the trail soon!

Getting there:
Mark O. Hatfield East Trailhead: (Starting from the Mosier side – 1.1 miles to Twin Tunnels)
From I-84 take Exit 69/Mosier. Follow the Historic Columbia River Highway as it curves left toward the town of Mosier. At the base of the bridge, turn left and circle under the bridge.  Drive approximately 1 mile to the trailhead parking lot, which is clearly marked on the left. The actual trailhead is about a football field away from the parking lot.

Mark O. Hatfield West Trailhead: (Starting from the Hood River side – 3.5 miles to Twin Tunnels)
From I-84 take Exit 64/Highway 35, White Salmon & Government Camp. After exiting, turn right at the stop sign and then make another right turn. Head up for 0.4 miles to a four-way intersection and turn left toward the Historic Highway State Park. Wind up the hill for 1.2 miles and turn left into the parking area at Mark O. Hatfield Western Trailhead.

For more information on hiking in the Columbia River Gorge, visit:

  • Friends of the Gorge
  • Curious Gorge – This is a limited online version of the book by the same name, listing 109 different Gorge hikes. In an effort to encourage readers to purchase the actual book, specific hike info is blacked out on this site, but it still gives you a lot of history about each hike, some lovely images, and a pretty good idea of what to expect.
  • Cascade Ramblings – Nice maps and hike basics here.

Filed Under: Hikes, Pacific Northwest Tagged With: Columbia Gorge, Hood River

Hood River BnB {Hood River, Oregon}

February 23 By Renée 9 Comments

An Inspiring Destination. 

A year ago, Mr. B. and I hatched a dream – in our second life, we are going to open a Bed & Breakfast. And though it is likely more than a decade away, even now we often stay up late on weekends imagining and planning – acoustic instruments hanging on the walls of a well-lit great room, musical meet-ups and house concerts in the evenings, savory-sweet smells wafting through the house in the morning. Oh, we know it will be plenty of hard work too, and we are prepared for that, but we are so excited about the people we will meet and the possibilities we will discover – the whole of it is a perfect fit for us.

It all started last Valentine’s Day when we stayed for the first time at the Hood River BnB.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

The Hood River BnB is not one of your fancy, European-style Bed & Breakfast establishments: it has an easy-going Northwest vibe and is completely devoid of pretense. Beautifully appointed without being fussy, you will feel welcome and at home from the moment you walk through the front door.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

The front room feels warm, open and inviting.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

There are no TVs in the rooms, but if you must watch, the television in this cozy anteroom will meet your media needs.

The Hood River BnB has four guest rooms in all.  Mr. B and I like to stay in the biggest – The Sky Room.  Airy and full of light, the Sky Room has a reading nook and a great view of the river. It boasts a large private bath with a Jacuzzi tub/shower, a huge walk-in closet, and an incredibly comfortable queen bed.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

The view from the Sky Room.

Mr. B and I love the privacy of the Sky Room too. We always take our music with us, and the little reading alcove gives us the perfect place to kick back and sing to our hearts content without bothering anyone.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

This little library, located on the 2nd floor, is open to all BnB guests. As far as I’m concerned, you just can’t go wrong with a place that keeps a vintage Underwood on the selves.

Other rooms include the Mountain and the River Room – both with great views of Mt. Adams and the Columbia River – and the Sun Room, which has a large connected sun and reading room.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

Breakfast is offered in three waves. Sign up for the early bird session and you might not see the innkeepers, but they will make sure you have something delicious to start your day.

Raspberries | The Good Hearted Woman

The Hood Breakfast offers those rising after 7:30 a family-style breakfast that might include such taste-tempters as Jim’s whole-wheat crepes (our favorite!!), omelets with your choice of fillings, French-toast, or a Hood scramble. Secret-recipe granola and locally grown fruit are always on hand as well.

Mr. B and I love this part of our stay: it is the one time we get to meet the rest of the guests and share a little friendly conversation.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

There is even a breakfast for the “Sleepy-Hoods.” (You know who you are.) You never have to worry about the “end-of-breakfast” because no matter how late you sleep in, there will be something waiting for you.

Western Scrub Jay

We spotted this little guy out the window during breakfast. (I think he is a Western Scrub Jay.)

Mt. Adams | The Good Hearted Woman

You can catch a view of Mount Adams from the breakfast room.

The BnB is within easy walking distance of downtown Hood River, and there is something nearby for everyone. Dozens of hiking trail-heads, wind-surfing, wine-tasting, river walks, antiques, and the best brick-oven pizza we have ever had are just minutes away.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

But it wasn’t the ambiance, or the great food, or the fantastic location, or even the VW Microbus poster in the breakfast room that inspired our dream – it was our hosts, innkeepers Jane and Jim.

Jane & Jim - Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

When you arrive at the Hood River BnB, Jane and Jim welcome you like family.  Intelligent, personable, and easy-going, they like to chat for a few minutes as they introduce you to the house, all the while getting a feel for what you want out of your stay.  They are naturally adept at striking just the right chord between friendly interaction and respect for your privacy.

Jane runs the day-to-day business of the BnB, while Jim splits his time between the BnB and his aerial agricultural imaging work. With California roots (we try not to hold that against them), Jane and Jim opened the Hood River Bnb in 2002, and have now hosted guests from the Pacific Northwest and across the globe, including South America, Australia, Japan, Canada, Africa, New Zealand, India, and all over Europe. Some stay only one night, while others stay a month or more, and many (like us) return year after year.

Hood River BnB | The Good Hearted Woman

Jane and Jim keep this cool map on their front room wall: guests can push a pin to mark either their current home or their place of origin.

It was those connections that truly inspired us.  Mr. B and I both love meeting people, hearing their stories, and sharing their music. That is a full life, and that is our dream. And it all came from a visit with Jane and Jim of the Hood River BnB. I encourage you to check them out – who knows what they may inspire for you!

Mr. B | The Good Hearted Woman

This man.

CONTACT INFO
Hood River BnB
918 Oak Street
Hood River, Oregon 97031
541.387.2997
jane(at)hoodriverbnb(dot)com

P.S. When you call, please tell Jane where you read about them!

Filed Under: Oregon, Pacific Northwest, Travel Tagged With: Columbia Gorge, Getaways, Hood River, Vacation, Valentine's Day

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