An Afternoon on the Natchez Trace Parkway {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2}

Stretching 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville Tennessee, the historic Natchez Trace Parkway takes travelers on a journey through history; from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and sweeping vistas.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

[This is the second in our series of posts about our day trip to Tupelo, Mississippi from Memphis, Tennessee. To read about our adventures in Tupelo, please visit Part 1.]

After spending the day in Tupelo, we decided to make our way back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway?

The Natchez Trace is an ancient trail that stretches 444 miles, from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee, and takes travelers by everything from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and green, sweeping vistas.

The original Trace path was carved by migrating prehistoric wildlife making their way between prairie lands and the Mississippi River. Later, Native American tribes picked up the Trace, and in time everyone from conquistadores, trappers, and boatmen to mail carriers and militia was using the Trace as a primary trade route through the region.

The Natchez Trace Parkway follows the path of the original Natchez Trace. Established as a National Park in 1938, the Parkway has since been designated an “All American Road & Scenic Byway.” (A National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the United States Department of Transportation for one or more of six “intrinsic qualities”: archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The Natchez Trace qualifies in all six.)

Traveler Notes: Mr B and I drove the 50-mile section of the Natchez Trace that connects Tupelo with US-72 W in Alabama. In terms of driving time, taking the Trace versus driving directly back to Memphis from Tupelo added about an hour and a half to our trip. We also spent at least three extra hours exploring the stops along the way. Taking the byway was totally worth the extra time and effort: my only regret is that we didn’t have more time to spend taking in more of the route.

Mile 266.0 – Parkway Visitor Center and Headquarters

We got on the Natchez Trace Parkway as we left Tupelo, stopping first at the Parkway Visitors Center and Headquarters, where we got an overview of the Natchez Trace and picked up some brochures and a map. [Specifically, we highly recommend picking up a Natchez Trace Parkway map provided by the National Park Service, which details each of the mile markers and stops along the Trace. We found it invaluable.]

Inside the Visitor Center you will find a park Ranger-staffed information desk, a small book and souvenir store, an auditorium, and a museum about the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center has an orientation film and a number of informative interpretive displays as well.

Official Natchez Trace map [PDF], showing the entire length of the Trace from Mississippi to Tennessee.
Mississippi to Alabama map [PDF], which includes all of the sites in this post.

Mile 269.4 – Old Trace & Confederate Gravesites

This was our first stop on the Natchez Trace. There is a short, relatively easy uphill walk from the parking lot to the Unknown Confederate Gravesite.

Much of the Old Trace had been abandoned by the start of the Civil War. However, the war did leave its mark on the Trace as it did upon the rest of the South. The soldiers marched, camped and fought along portions of this historic old road.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

As we walked the short path to these thirteen “Unknown Confederate” graves, I felt as if the very air around us was vibrating. It was probably just my imagination (or possibly those relentless Southern mosquitos).

That these men died on the wrong side of history is not up for debate here. Nevertheless, these thirteen graves stand in silent testament to the sacrifices made on every side in deadliest war in American history.

These thirteen men (boys, more likely) were someone’s son, or father, or brother, or lover. We don’t know how or why they ended up in this remote clearing far from home, nor do we know what was in each one’s mind and heart. We will never know. All we know is that these thirteen did not survive the fight.

Mile 275.2 – Dogwood Valley

Flowering dogwood is a common small tree throughout the eastern United States from Maine and Michigan south to Texas and Florida. Here the Natchez Trace passes through a small valley with an unusual stand of large dogwood trees. An easy 15 minute walk takes you along a sunken portion of the Old Trace and through the small wooded area named Dogwood Valley.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Dogwood Valley provided us with another short, easy hike. I didn’t get any good pictures of the landscape; mostly because I was busy chasing this darn butterfly – who would not hold still for me no matter how much I pleaded with him!

Mile 278.4 – Twentymile Bottom Overlook

There are a multitude of swamps, streams, and rivers along the lower regions on the Trace, and Twentymile Bottom is one such wetland. This particular stop struck Mr B and I both as a bit anticlimactic: as visitors from one of the greenest corners of the US, this spot was just another vista, and an overgrown one at that. Pretty, yes, but not particularly life-altering.

Traveler Notes: If you are driving a larger RV or pulling a trailer, you might want to consider skipping this stop. The overlook is at the end of a short road with no loop at the end, making it difficult for larger vehicles to turn around.

Mile 286.7 – Pharr Mounds

According to the National Park Service, Pharr Mounds is the largest and most important archaeological site in northern Mississippi. Built by Native American tribes 2,000 to 1,800 years ago, Pharr Mounds is a complex of eight mounds, spread over 90 acres. The mounds, or artificial hills, were built to either hold structures or for burial grounds.

You can only see three of the mounds from the parking lot, and there are no trails out to the mounds. The highest mound is only eighteen feet tall, while others have eroded to the point where it may be difficult to even identify them as hills.

Traveler Notes: This stop has a large parking lot, two picnic tables, some good interpretive information, and a public restroom facility (plumbed).

Mile 308.4 – Cave Spring

Cave Spring, a combination of a cave and a sinkhole, was a particularly interesting stop on our journey. Originally formed by underground water eroding the limestone to create a long room and corridor, the cave weakened over time until it collapsed.

An 800-foot paved path leads you to the mouth of a low cave entrance. Signs warn visitors that the limestone cave is dangerous and will eventually collapse; however, Mr B braved it for this picture because he’s just that kinda guy.

Mile 308.8 – Bear Creek Mound

The village site was occupied as early as 8,000 B.C. by hunters who stayed only long enough to prepare their kill. From the time of Christ to 1000 A.D., migratory people of this area practiced limited agriculture. The nearby fields and streams offered an abundance of nuts, fruits, game and fish. These people shaped this mound and built a crude temple on its summit to house their sacred images.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Traveler Notes: You can easily walk from Bear Creek Mound to the Mississippi-Alabama state line.

Mile 308.9 – Alabama-Mississippi State Line

Between Mr B and I, we have visited nearly every state in the United States. Until this trip, however, neither one of us had ever set foot in Alabama, so we decided to document the occasion.

Obviously, I was the first one in Alabama, because I had to get there first to take this picture of Mr B driving across the state line form Mississippi. (Not that anyone is keeping track or anything. 😉)

Mile 317.0 – Freedom Hills Overlook

Freedom Hills is the site of a short, steep trail that leads to the the highest point on the Natchez Trace in Alabama. There are two benches along the way for resting, and a third bench at the top of the hill.

When Mr B and I took the hike, we took our “good camera,” but both left our cell phones in the car for some reason, so we had to get very creative when it came to taking a picture of the two of us at the top. We jury-rigged a makeshift camera sling in the fork of a tree, and after I set the timer, I had to run down so that we could capture the memory. Let’s just say that it was a challenge and it took more than one try. So while this picture isn’t the greatest and the lighting is terrible, it represents a fun memory for us.

I imagine that this place – along with the entire Natchez Trace – puts on an amazing show of color in the fall.

Mile 320.3 – Buzzard Roost Spring

Buzzard Roost Springs was the last stop we made before getting on Highway 72 for the last leg of our Day Trip from Memphis to Tupelo. It was a peaceful, relaxing way to end our brief tour of Natchez Trace Parkway.

Originally called Buzzard Sleep, the name was changed to Buzzard Roost in 1801 by Levi Colbert, a renowned Chickasaw chief. The spring was a water source for the Colbert house which also served as an inn and stand for travelers on the Old Natchez Trace. Travelers who stopped here remarked that its a good place for they were well received, well fed and kindly treated.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Levi Colbert left behind a gripping legacy. As one of six sons of a Scots father and Chickasaw mother, Levi was in unique position between the two cultures. Both Levi and his brother George became prominent interpreters and negotiators, striving to foster peace with the US government while also maintaining the integrity and interests of the Chickasaw people and their culture.

Traveler Notes: If after, visiting this stop, you find yourself wanting to learn more (as I did) about the Chickasaw people; and more specifically, about the Colbert brothers and their intriguing story, you might want to check out Chickasaw Chief George Colbert: His Family and His Country.

Take Highway US-72 W back to Memphis!

Learn more about the Natchez Trace

Visit the Scenic Trace Website
Explore the Natchez Trace Interactive Map
Download the Natchez Trace Visitors Guide

^{Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

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A New Era at Graceland: Elvis Presley’s Memphis

August 15 By Renée ♥ 17 Comments

The newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is vast, eye-opening, humbling, and a must for music lovers of all kinds.

When we were kids growing up in Liverpool, all we ever wanted to be was Elvis Presley. ~ #PaulMcCartney #Beatles Click To Tweet

Tomorrow marks the 40th anniversary of Elvis Presley’s death, and in Memphis this is Elvis Week. The celebration is expected to draw the largest number of visitors ever to Graceland – Presley’s Memphis mansion.

I have to admit, until recently I just didn’t get it. I could not understand why this man – an exceptionally talented entertainer to be sure, but still, just a man – caused so much hype and celebration. I mean, it’s not like he’s the only singer who’s ever touched hearts and made young girls cry, right?

But I learned a few things in Tennessee. First, we visited Studio B and Sun Studios where we experienced Elvis’ beginnings, and the first glimmers began to spark as I understood more about the critical, pivotal role he played in breaking the color barrier in the music world – no small feat in the mid-1950’s. Still, others have broken down social barriers, and they don’t have millions of adoring fans embarking on pilgrimages forty years after they die just to visit their graves. (Jim Morrison notwithstanding.)

It wasn’t until we visited the newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex that things finally fully click. All the hype. All the glorification. All the adoration and idolization. I get it now.

Because it isn’t just about Elvis the Man, or Elvis the Entertainer, or even Elvis the Icon. It’s about something far bigger than that. It’s about how he changed the Music.

"I always felt that someday, somehow, something would happen to change everything for me, and I'd daydream about how it would be. - Elvis Presley | Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

{Elvis is the boy in overalls standing in the top right.}

Many thanks to Graceland and Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex for hosting our visit. This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex opened to the public in March of this year: a 200,000-square-foot, $45 million project across from Presley’s Graceland Mansion. The new Entertainment Complex features fifteen exhibits highlighting the many facets of Elvis’ life (including his early life, his career, his army stint, his cars, his airplanes, and countless items from the family’s personal archives), plus two restaurants, retail stores, and a soundstage. It is an amazing facility, and visitors can easily spend at more than a day exploring.

It was at one of the exhibits – ICONS: The Influence of Elvis Presley – that I gained a completely new perspective on why Elvis is known as The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll. However, before I go on more about the ICONS exhibit and what we took away from it, let me share a few other highlights from Elvis Presley’s Memphis.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum

Elvis is King. Period. - #GeneSimmons #Kiss Click To Tweet

The Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at the Memphis Entertainment Complex gives visitors the opportunity to become completely immersed in Elvis’ career, through hundreds of artifacts, memorabilia, and of course, jumpsuits. {You knew there would be jumpsuits, right?}

Once again – this museum is Vast: I can barely scrap the surface here.

Fun facts

Elvis received his first guitar on his 11th birthday, on on January 8, 1946. It was purchased from Tupelo Hardware Company in Tupelo, Mississippi.
Elvis cut his first recording, “That’s All Right,” at Sun Studio in Memphis on July 5, 1954.
Between 1954 to 1978, Elvis released 108 singles, 30 extended-play singles, 70 albums on RCA Records, four albums on the Pickwick budget label, and five singles on the Sun Records label.

Of his recordings, 150 different albums and singles have been certified gold, platinum or multi-platinum by the Recording Industry Association of America. (Look closely at the image below and you can see some of them hanging on the wall behind the line of white jumpsuits.) He had fourteen Grammy nominations, with three wins – all for gospel recordings.

In addition to recording, Elvis also made thirty-one movies, arguably the most successful of which were Blue Hawaii, Clambake, King Creole, Jail House Rock, and Viva Las Vegas.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

In reflection: “Talent is being able to sell something you are feeling.”

Ever wonder where Paul Stanley and Gene Simmons [of KISS] got their inspiration for all that glam? Hmmm…

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit

Elvis had an extensive, impressive car and motorcycle collection, many of which are on display at the EPM Entertainment Complex. This pink Caddy is my favorite 😉

Pink Cadillac. Do you really need anything else?

There’s nowhere else in the world where you can go from driving a truck to a Cadillac overnight.

– Elvis Presley

1956 Cadillac Eldorado – Originally white. When he bought it, Elvis had the car painted purple and customized the interior.

1956 Lincoln Continental Mark II – came with a price tag of $10,000 when it was introduced in 1955, much more than the average $4000 luxury car of the time.

The first car I bought was the most beautiful car I’ve ever seen. It was second hand, but I parked it outside of my hotel the day I got it. I sat up all night, just looking at it.

– Elvis Presley

1960 MG – Used by Elvis in Blue Hawaii and was part of his personal collection.

VIP Exhibit & Lounge

As part of our Elvis Presley’s Memphis Celebration Package, we received two Elvis Entourage VIP Passes, which gave Mr B and I access to the VIP Exhibit and Lounge. (It also gave us front-of-the-line at access at Graceland Mansion {kind of like a Disney FastPass}, access to a special VIP Only exhibit at Graceland Mansion, an extra day pass, and a Keepsake Backstage Pass.)

The VIP area displays some interesting personal items, including Elvis’ sheriff’s badge and ID, his gold Social Security card, and his wallet with a picture of baby Lisa Marie.

Yeah, that’s me, hanging out on a purple velvet chaise lounge with Elvis. No biggie.

In addition to the exhibits we’ve touched on here, there are displays highlighting Elvis’ early years (Elvis’ Tupelo), military service (Private Elvis), how country music influenced rock ‘n roll, and much more.

If there hadn't been an Elvis, there wouldn't have been the Beatles. #JohnLennon #Beatles Click To Tweet

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis Presley

{This was, for so many reasons, my absolute favorite part of the EPM Entertainment Complex exhibits.}

I guess until recently, I’ve tended to look at the development of music in a relatively linear way; one genre evolving and expanding, with new styles emerging from old and moving forward to form some unique sound that eventually comes into its own. However, our trip to Tennessee gave me a much different mental picture; instead of a timeline marching forward with tangents breaking off at particular intersections in time, I now see the progression of music as more of a web of influence; and like a spiders web, in which one fine silk thread, placed just so, can shake the entire system to its core. Elvis was, and continues to be, a single gossamer thread to which so many others are anchored. The ICONS exhibit clarified this idea beautifully.

Some of the performers who paid tribute to Elvis in the ICONS exhibit were obvious (Bruce Springsteen immediately comes to mind) , but both Mr B and I were genuinely surprised by others.

The first Elvis song I heard was ‘Hound Dog.’ I just heard this voice and it was absolutely, totally in its own place. The voice was confident, insinuating and taking no prisoners. He had those great whoop and diving moments, those sustains that swoop down to the note like a bird of prey. I took all that in. You can hear that all over Led Zeppelin.

– Robert Plant

It was like he came along and whispered some dream in everybody’s ear, and somehow we all dreamed it.

– Bruce Springsteen

I wasn’t just a fan, I was his brother. He said I was good and I said he was good. We Never argued about that. Elvis was a hard worker, dedicated, and God loved him. I love him and hope to see him again. There’ll never be another like him that soul brother.

– James Brown

If your actions create a legacy that inspires others to dream more, learn more, do more, and become more, then you have accomplished something. Elvis did that and more for me and so many others.

– Dolly Parton

Before Elvis, everything was in black and white. Then came Elvis.... Zoom, glorious technicolor. ~ #KeithRichards Click To Tweet

And yes, even adorable Memphis native JT chimed in…

When you come from Memphis, music is in your blood. From the blues artist to Elvis Presley, they have had a major influence on my music. I admire Elvis, always have. He combined all of these different types of music and made it one.

– Justin Timberlake

No one name says more than his... Elvis. It roars while others whisper. ~ #PaulStanley #Kiss Click To Tweet

Whether you are a fan or just a music lover, a day at the Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is so worth your time. Even if you are a lifelong fan like Mr B, you will come away with a new appreciation for Elvis’ life and contributions; and if you are simply a music lover like me, it will likely change your perspective on The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll and his place in music history forever.

Click here for ticketing Information

Did any of the tributes in the ICONS exhibit surprise you?

Disclosure: Many thanks to Graceland and Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex for hosting our visit. All images here are mine, taken and used with permission from Graceland/Elvis Presley Enterprises, Inc. for use on this website only. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Why You Will Love “The Guest House at Graceland”

August 11 By Renée ♥ 20 Comments

From first impression to last, the vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is a fusion of classic elegance and modern luxury – welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.

^{Many thanks to the The Guest House at Graceland for hosting our stay. This post may contain affiliate links.}
Mr B was over the moon when I told him that I had arranged for us to stay at The Guest House at Graceland. “You mean, we’re going to stay on Elvis’ property?” he asked.

“Yep. Just a block down and right across the street from Graceland Mansion.” He beamed. Almost glowed. I’ve known this man since I was fifteen years old, and I knew that just visiting Graceland was already overflowing his bucket big-time – he’d never even considered that he might get to stay there.

As for me, I wasn’t so sure… secretly, I didn’t know if I could endure (what I imagined would be) all those rhinestones and black velvet paintings in one place, even for Mr B. As it turned out, we were both in for a refreshing surprise.

Driving through the security gates at The Guest House at Graceland, all of my preconceived notions about the place just sort of fell away. From first impression to last, The Guest House is a classic, dignified celebration of Elvis Presley and his legacy.

When Elvis had friends and family visit Graceland, he would have them stay at a hotel down the street. He would have been thrilled to have had his own guest house where they could stay so close by. Lisa and I, and our entire family, are excited that visitors from around the world can now experience our unique resort hotel — The Guest House at Graceland.

– Priscilla Presley

With much of the design overseen by Priscilla Presley herself, Memphis’ newest luxury hotel reflects Elvis’ personal style. The vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is one of classic elegance and modern luxury – welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.

And not a single velvet painting in sight.

Hall - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

I fell in love with the symmetry of The Guest House halls: I found them to be very calming and reassuring.

The lobby is stunning, filled with instantly recognizable close-up images that evoke the spirit of Elvis: cuffs, sunglasses, popped collars. Note the high-backed lobby seats, specifically designed to echo those iconic Elvis collars!

Foyer - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

This picture totally does not do justice to the opulence and elegance of The Guest House lobby.

There are subtle touches of Elvis everywhere, from the understated “EP” wall sconces that line the halls to the close-up jumpsuit details of the wall art. Even the signs that tell you what floor you’re on are iconically Elvis.

The Guest House at Graceland has 450 guest rooms on six floors, as well as a number of uniquely-themed VIP suites. (Lamentably, Mr B and I did not get to stay in one of the VIP suites. Maybe next time 😉)

Our room was clean, comfortable, surprisingly spacious – and notably not overly “Elvisy.” (I personally LOVED the Jail House Rock image on our wall!) The bed was extremely comfortable, with luxury linens and a kitten-soft throw blanket that practically dared me to stop petting it.

Elvis movies, concert footage, and specials are available on room TVs at all times, as well as a 24-hour live-stream of the entrance to Graceland. Free Wi-fi, free airport shuttle service, and shuttle service to Graceland Mansion and the newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is also included in your stay (or you can make the five minute walk on foot). They provide free shuttle service to Downtown Memphis/Beale Street as well.

But as nice as it is to have soft sheets and free shuttle service, we all know that sometimes it’s the little things that really elevate a hotel experience. Some of the amenities that Mr B and I particularly appreciated include the in-room Keurig (Mr B has got to have his coffee!) and the larger-than-average naturally-sourced luxury bath products. (You can buy full-size items in the hotel gift store.) The dual-head rainfall shower was a big plus too.

Clearly, great consideration was taken in designing and appointing The Guest House at Graceland, from the carefully chosen color scheme to the cushions in the guest rooms.

I’m one of those people who touches everything, and with all the textures on the The Guest House walls, I was in heaven.

The Guest House at Graceland has been open less than a year and from our experience, they still have a few minor kinks to smooth out. For example, during our stay a system glitch set fire alarms off all over the hotel at about 1:15am. (Never a good thing, especially for bone-weary travelers.) But… Life. Plus, it gave us a good story. Overall our stay was pleasant, relaxing, and truly memorable.

The service we received at The Guest House was, in all cases, first-rate. We were especially impressed with our hotel attendant, Aramis. (Yes, like the Musketeer 😉 )

I don’t know what Aramis’ actual title at the hotel is. I asked him once, and he replied, “Everything. I do everything.” And apparently, he does. When we first arrived at The Guest House at Graceland, it was Aramis who carried our luggage to our room and introduced us to its amenities. He likewise acted as our concierge during our stay, and directed us to some great local blues and barbecue destinations. At one point, he even served as our shuttle driver.

In every instance, Aramis was gracious, amiable, and proficient. (And if by chance our review has any weight with hotel administration/powers-that-be, we encourage them to give this young man a raise and a promotion: he is an both an exceptional representative of The Guest House and a true ambassador of Memphis hospitality.)

The hotel throughout is, in a word, Beautiful. There are a number of lovely common areas, as well as a ball room, meeting rooms, and other large event spaces.

One of the highlights for Elvis fans at The Guest House at Graceland is the full-scale replica of the Grand Staircase at Graceland, complete with the blue curtain at the top of the stairs, the mirrored wall and the chandelier, just like at the entrance foyer of Graceland.

Staircase - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

PRO TIP: This is a great spot to take that commemorative Graceland photo! (I have no idea how we forgot to do this while we were there.)

As part of our all-inclusive Elvis Presley’s Memphis Celebration Package, we were treated to a wonderful breakfast each morning at Delta’s Kitchen, one of the two full-service restaurants at the hotel. (Note that breakfast is not included with the regular room rate at this time.)

The service at Delta’s Kitchen was friendly and efficient, and the food was all tasty and satisfying. The breakfast buffet offered a broad variety of choices, from fresh fruit to homemade biscuits and gravy to the biggest tray of bacon I’ve ever seen. Made-to-order omelets were also available upon request.

In addition to Delta’s Kitchen, The Guest House at Graceland offers a number of other fine and casual dining choices. The Lobby Lounge is a great place to kick back and relax with your favorite beverage while you nosh on selections from their a la carte light dining menu.

Happy Hour specials are available daily from 4pm until 6pm at the Lobby Lounge.

EP’s Bar & Grill, a Memphis-inspired setting with lots of Southern flair, serves contemporary interpretations of Elvis’ favorite food and beverages.

If you’re not up for a sit-down meal, the Shake Rattle & Go offers grab-&-go favorites to get your day started, including coffee, espresso and delicious baked treats. Open all day, it also features freshly made sandwiches, salads, and snacks.

On-site entertainment options include everything from foosball by the pool to daily showings of Elvis’ movies in the hotel’s full-size, 464-seat movie theater.

The outdoor pool and hot tub are open seasonally. The hotel also offers a 24-hour access fitness room.

The area surrounding The Guest House feels as though it could use some serious renovation, but once inside hotel security gates, the grounds are beautifully attended, and safety and security abounds. Parking was included with our stay in our Celebration Package, and the entrance gate and all parking areas are manned 24/7 by security attendants. (Without the package, self-parking currently costs $10 per day, with valet parking available for an additional fee.)

If you are an Elvis fan heading to Memphis, this is the place to stay – no question; and even if you’re not a big Elvis devotee, if you’re heading to Memphis and plan to go to Graceland, this is a beautiful, memorable destination.

Guest room rates are very reasonable for a luxury hotel of this caliber, varying between approximately $127 (the current deal on TripAdvisor) to $249 a night for standard rooms, depending on the night and the season.

3600 Elvis Presley Blvd
Memphis, Tennessee 38116
901.443.3000
The Guest House at Graceland
^{Disclosure: Many thanks to the The Guest House at Graceland for hosting our stay. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}
Coming up next: The Newly Opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex

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Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe}

July 28 By Renée ♥ 79 Comments

Eat it in Nashville or make it at home. Either way, Nashville Hot Chicken is fiery, spicy, crispy, burn-your-tongue-but-can’t-stop-yourself, eat-it-’til-your-buttons-pop good!

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

I love fried chicken. I don’t eat it often, but I love it. Back when I was a kid, my BFF’s Gramma Barbara kind of adopted me. She was fun and irreverent, and to this day I love her like my own.

Grandma B made ⋆ THE BEST ⋆ southern fried chicken I’ve ever eaten, or ever hope to eat, in my life. Tender, juicy, crispy, and seasoned just right, Gramma B’s chicken was so finger-licking delicious that it tasted like it had been fried in heaven. It was Perfect.

Gramma B will be 95 in a few weeks, so she’s not cooking much these days. Here she is standing the kitchen where she made the last batch of her heavenly fried chicken.

Gramma Barbara tried to teach me to make fried chicken a couple of times, and I think I got the basics down fine, but I could never make it quite as good as she did. I don’t know if was her skillet, or the lard (of course it was the lard) or some other sublime combination of environmental and mystical factors, but her fried chicken was absolutely divine and mine was, at best, pretty darn good.

In my quest to scratch my fried chicken itch, I’ve ordered fried chicken at nearly every place in Portland that serves it, and while some turn out a very decent plate, not even Screen Door – Portland’s refined Southern restaurant and brunch mecca, where the lines go around the block and the chicken and waffles are stacked to the ceiling – not even that rings that elusive Gramma B-worthy, chicken-fried bell for me. There’s always something missing.

Then we went to Tennessee – and discovered Hot Chicken.

Nashville Hot Chicken is heaven and hell in a one transcendent bite.

Nashville Hot Chicken is a hyper-regional specialty with a long, colorful, sordid history involving a philandering man, a jealous woman hell-bent on revenge, and a whole lot ‘a hot pepper juice.

The origins of Nashville Hot Chicken is a finely-woven tale that I simply can’t do justice and still keep this post under a couple thousand words, so I’m not even going to try. (And I don’t need to, because The Bitter Southerner has done a bang-up job telling the story for us: when you have a minute or ten, I strongly encourage you to read this great post about how Nashville Hot Chicken really came be!)

⋆ If you love Spicy and Fried Chicken, are traveling through Nashville, and can only eat one meal, make it THIS ⋆

While Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack is the acknowledged home of the original Nashville Hot Chicken, when we were in town, we opted to go to relative newcomer Hattie B’s Hot Chicken instead.

Reviews said that the lines can get really long here (at the west Nashville location) but we arrived relatively late for a weekday – around 8:30 pm – and had hardly any wait at all.

We ordered two small plates (which turned out to be a ton of food!). Each plate came with a chicken quarter (dark meat for Mr B, light for me) and two sides. Mr B got baked beans and I ordered the potato salad, and we both got coleslaw.

Our chicken arrived very quickly, stacked in a basket between the traditional slice of white bread, topped with a dill pickle. It only took me one bite to know that Hattie B’s Hot Chicken was absolutely amazing. Possibly addictive.

Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken is literally the first chicken I’ve eaten in at least twenty years that even comes close to Grandma B’s fried chicken – with one important caveat: instead tasting like chicken sent from heaven, it tastes more like the devil himself cooked up a batch of fried chicken on his day off.

I need that recipe!!!

When we got back to ~~Oregon~~ our hotel room (like I waited until we went home 😉 ), I immediately searched Nashville Hot Chicken, and was absolutely thrilled to find Hattie B’s recipe right here, in Lee Brian Schrager’s cookbook Fried & True: More than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides.

Well, you can bet that it took me less than a Tennessee minute to order it.(Which, come to think of it, is probably substantially longer than a New York minute, but still…)

When my copy of Fried & True arrived, I opened it to find the pages bursting with great recipes, valuable tips and cooking methods, personal stories, and a true love of fried chicken.

**⋆ If you love Spicy and Fried Chicken and can only make one meal, make it THIS Nashville Hot Chicken Recipe ⋆**

Total props and credit for this Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken recipe go to Fried & True author Lee Brian Schrager. The ingredients list in the recipe below come directly from the book; however, the directions have been rewritten.

After the fry, you have the wet application. I take some soybean oil from the fryer, get it really hot, and add the dry rub into that fat. The heat activates all the spices. You want it hot enough that when you baste it over the fried chicken, the skin stays nice and crispy.

Matt Duckor, The Secret Behind Hattie B’s Legendary Hot Chicken

Note that the following Nashville Hot Chicken recipe is gauged as Medium Hot. Adjust spices according to your own tastes.

Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe}

Cuisine Southern

Author Lee Brian Schrager, Fried & True

Ingredients

For the Dry Brine

1 whole chicken 3 pounds, washed, patted dry, and cut into quarters
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

For the Dip

1 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot sauce

For the Dredge

2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
Vegetable oil for frying

For the Spicy Coating

1/2 hot frying oil or hot lard
3 tablespoons cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Garnish

Dill pickle slices
White bread optional

Instructions

Step 1: The Dry-Brine

In a medium bowl, toss together the chicken pieces, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight. (Up to 24 hours)

Step 2: The Dip & Dredge

Whisk together the milk, eggs, and hot sauce in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the four and salt.
Drag the chicken through the flour mixture, coating evenly. Dip the floured chicken in the milk mixture, and then once again in the flour mixture. Shake off exceess between each step.

Step 3: The Fry

Heat vegetable oil in a deep skillet or deep fryer until it is between 350° - 375° F. The oil needs to be deep enough for the chicken to fully submerge.
The temperature will drop when you add the chicken. Keep the oil at 300° to 325° F while the chicken fries. (See NOTES)
Working in batches, use tongs to carefully add the chicken to the hot oil and fry until crispy. (15-17 minutes for breast quarters; 18-20 minutes for leg quarters.) Remove chicken from oil and allow to drain on wire rack.

Step 4: The Spicy Coating

Ladle hot frying oil into a heatproof bowl. Whisk in cayenne, brown sugar, and spices. Baste the spice mixture over the hot fried chicken.

Step 5: The Serve

If you want to go traditional, serve your Hot Chicken up over a slice of white bread. Garnish with dill pickle slices.

Recipe Notes

IMPORTANT: The oil needs to maintain an optimal temperature of 325° while the chicken is frying. However, the oil temp will drop at least 25° when you add the chicken, so initially you need to heat the oil up to about 350°.

It’s important to maintain the correct temperature for frying chicken of 325° F. If the temperature of oil in the pan drops down below 300°, the chicken will begin to absorb the cooking oil, resulting in greasy, soggy chicken. If it rises above about 340°, the chicken will cook too quickly on the outside, and not get done in the middle. When fried at the correct temperature, the chicken will come out golden brown, having absorbed very little oil.

Read more about Nashville Hot Chicken's rough and tumble history, and get some great recipes in the deal! Hot Chicken Cookbook: The Fiery History & Red-Hot Recipes of Nashville's Beloved Bird.

Hot Chicken Cookbook: The Fiery History & Red-Hot Recipes of Nashville’s Beloved Bird. Read more about Nashville Hot Chicken’s rough and tumble history, and get some great recipes in the deal!

P.S. I’m sharing this recipe on the Weekend Potluck Recipe Linkup. Check it out for more great recipes!

Thank you so much for being a faithful reader and supporter of The Good Hearted Woman. ❤ Be sure to Pin and Print this Nashville Hot Chicken recipe!

What is a favorite regional specialty from your part of the world? Let us know in the comments!

Top 7 Things to Do in Memphis {Music Lovers Edition}

July 26 By Renée ♥ 26 Comments

Memphis is a town that lives and breathes music. Check out our picks for Top 5 Must-dos for Music Lovers, plus two great bonus destinations.

♫ ♪ Put on my blue suede shoes | and I boarded the plane
Touched down in the land of the Delta Blues | In the middle of the pouring rain ♫

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

I still remember the first time I heard “Walking in Memphis” – on KINK in Portland, a year or so before my second daughter was born. At that time, I’d never so much as touched a toe south of West Virginia, but something about that song spoke to a deep-roots place in my belly, and I couldn’t wait until I could get my hands on the whole album. {This, children, was in the days before iTunes or Amazon (or even Napster 😉 ) } – back when you had to wait for a CD to arrive at Music Millenium, and then rush down to grab a copy before they were all gone.

We must have played that CD a thousand times. Dig Down Deep. Walk on Water. Silver Thunderbird (which always makes me think of my dad and his pocket comb). Perfect Love. True Companion. And always, Walking in Memphis; a song which over time became lullaby for my girls about a magical, musical land: like Puff’s Honalee, it almost wasn’t real.

But Memphis is real. And walking down Beale Street – with music pouring out of every brick and around every corner – is a sublime experience. Especially if music feeds your soul.

**5 Memphis Must-Dos for Music Lovers**

1. Take an evening stroll down Beale Street

♫ ♪ …I’m walking in Memphis | Walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale ♫

Formally declared the Home of the Blues in 1977 by an act of Congress, Beale Street is where the cool kids hang out. (Or at least they used to.) Kids like Louis Armstrong, Memphis Minnie, Muddy Waters, and B.B. King. Once of the most iconic streets in America, Beale Street is the heart of downtown Memphis.

Walk down Beale Street any given evening and you’ll hear a musical stew pouring out of open doors all along the three-block stretch – delta blues, jazz, rock ‘n’ roll, R&B, and gospel. Walk through a door, and the music will grab you and pull you in.

♫ ♪ W.C. Handy, won’t you look down over me…

WC Handy Statue - Top 7 Things to Do in Memphis {Music Lovers Edition} | The Good Hearted Woman

WC Handy, Father of the Blues, stands in a WC Handy Park on Beale Street.

Fun Fact: Just a block away from Beale Street, Gibson Guitar’s famous factory produces B.B. King’s signature ES-355 Semi-Hollow body. (See the “bonus” destinations at the bottom of this post.)

2. Visit Graceland

Of course you’re going to Graceland. Of course you are.

♫ ♪ Saw the ghost of Elvis | On Union Avenue
Followed him up to the gates of Graceland | Then I watched him walk right through ♫

Top 7 Things to Do in Memphis {Music Lovers Edition} | The Good Hearted Woman

The actual “Gates of Graceland.”

Sadly, we did not see Elvis (or even his ghost) at Graceland. Nevertheless, it was a surprisingly captivating tour. Not only did I learn a ton about the man, his family, and his music (not to mention the impact he had on American culture), but I found that seeing Graceland in real life brought a measure of earnest humanity to the Elvis mythology. Even if you aren’t a big Elvis fan, a visit to Graceland needs to be on your list. (More on Graceland coming soon.)

The living room at Graceland Mansion.

♫ …there’s a pretty little thing | Waiting for the King | Down in the Jungle Room ♫ ♪

The “Jungle Room” was not nearly as sultry or exotic as I had imagined. :/

Speaking of Graceland…

3. Sign the Wall

It seems like every adventure has at least one defining, unforgettable moment. For Mr B, signing the fieldstone wall at Graceland was one of those moments. It was for me too, but for somewhat different reasons. (We’ll be sharing more about this in a later post.)

All you need to sign the wall is a Sharpie and a few minutes.

PRO TIP #1: If you go at night, the experience will feel more risky and exhilarating!

PRO TIP #2: It’s not risky at all. In fact, it’s totally legal (and even encouraged). Two police cars drove by us while we were signing.

4. Tour Sun Studios

The Birthplace of Rock & Roll.

Founded in 1952 by Sam Phillips, Sun Studios is where it all began.

Our tour of Sun Studios was an entirely different experience than our tour of RCA Studio B. Sun is smaller, grittier… more raw. Ghosts are still singing in the walls.

In the beginning, Sun was home to an impressively wide variety of talent, as Sam Phillips was willing to give anyone who came off the street to record a chance. It didn’t matter what they played, Sam recorded it all: gospel, blues, hillbilly, country, boogie, or western swing. The label had no limits.

Then, in 1954, Elvis Presley walked through the doors of Sun Studios, and Sam found himself with the artist he had been looking for: someone who could perform the blues with passion and energy, and still reach across both musical and racial barriers. Sam and Elvis opened a door that would never again close.

Our tour of Sun Studios started with a climb upstairs to a small but impressive museum filled with some amazing music history artifacts. After learning about Sam Phillips and the artists who recorded there, we went downstairs into the studio itself. Like I mentioned earlier, there are ghosts in those walls, let me tell you. It is an amazing feeling to know you are standing where sounds that changed American music were first recorded.

If I had space and time, I could go on forever about the artists who recorded at Sun Studios over the years. These names are synonymous with the 1950’s music revolution – the artists who gave us that “good ol’ fashioned Rock n’ Roll.”

Sun Studios - Top 7 Things to Do in Memphis {Music Lovers Edition} | The Good Hearted Woman

Not gonna lie: Mr B was thrilled to sing into the Shure 55 microphone at Sun Studios that was once used by Elvis Presley. (He was trying to play it cool. He failed.)

Sun Studios is still an active recording studio, and continues to reflect the diversity and vision that was first embraced over sixty years ago. If we ever have a chance to visit Memphis again, we will take this tour again. It’s that good.

Tours of Sun Studios are given every day at the bottom half of every hour from 10:30 AM through 5:30 PM.

5. Listen to Live Blues

♫ ♪ Now Muriel plays piano | Every Friday at the Hollywood…

As luck would have it, just before leaving for Tennessee, Mr B and I saw Marc Cohn perform nearly every cut from his Walking in Memphis album live at the Aladdin in Portland, on the album’s 25th anniversary tour. The Aladdin is an intimate venue, and we had fourth row seats. Almost as entertaining as the songs Marc sang were the stories he told about writing them. It was fascinating to learn more about Walking in Memphis’ Muriel; the very real, remarkable woman who inspired this piece of the song. {Song Stories: Walking in Memphis}

We didn’t get to see Muriel (sadly, she passed away many years ago) but we did spend an evening listening to the amazing BB King All-Star Band at BB King’s Blues Club on the corner of Beale and 2nd. (We ate some pretty decent barbecue there too!)

The food at BB Kings Blues Club was good. Not great, but definitely a solid Good. (I highly recommend the Shrimp & Cheese Grits.) The music was Awesome.

Have some extra time?

Here are two more great destinations just half a block from Beale Street to add to your itinerary.

6. Tour the Gibson Guitar Factory

The Gibson Factory tour didn’t make our short list because it isn’t what I would categorize as a must-do, can’t-miss thing, but it is definitely worth your time if you find yourself with an extra hour on your hands.

I wish I could show you pictures from the tour, but they don’t let you take them, and my stealth photography skills (as my daughters will tell you) ~~suck~~ are nonexistent.

What I can show you are some beautiful guitars from the Gibson showroom. For example, the guitar above and on the left below – a custom guitar created by a single master luthier over the course of an entire year – is the single most expensive guitar I’ve ever touched. It comes with 14 kt gold hardware, mother-of-pearl inlay, and a $26,669 price tag.

The Gibson Factory tour costs just $10 a person and takes about 45 minutes, start to finish. You get to walk through the entire guitar-making process, from raw wood materials through the intricate process of binding, neck-fitting, painting, buffing, and tuning that creates these iconic musical instruments.

7. Visit the Memphis Rock n’ Soul Museum

If you want a solid, interactive, informative education about the history of Southern music and the Memphis sound, the Memphis Rock n’ Soul Museum is the place to visit. Personally, I think one of my biggest takeaways from this experience was a far clearer understanding of the vital role of the musical pioneers who persisted, for the love of music, through racial, regional, and socio-economic barriers to create music that transformed our country.

According to its creators at the Smithsonian Institution, “Rock ‘n’ Soul: Social Crossroads” is the story of the body of music that had the most influence on the culture and lifestyles of the world during the middle 20th Century unto this day. It affected the way we walked, the way we talked, the way we combed our hair and the way we dressed – not only in Memphis or the nation, but the entire world.

The museum is divided into seven galleries that trace Southern music and the Memphis sound over time. Beginning with Rural Culture, which illustrates the musical traditions of the rural South historically, you move through the roots of Southern music, the social challenges it responded to, and the social changes for which it is responsible. The tour begins with short, informative movie; then you are given an audio headset so you can walk through the rest of the museum at your own pace. (It took us just under an hour to do the whole tour.) Always there is music, from short clips to full-length songs, highlighting each point along the way.

The Memphis Rock n’ Soul Museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (The Memphis Rock n’ Soul Museum is literally right across the street from the Gibson Factory, so it’s almost like a two-fer.)

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Blue Guitar - Top 7 Things to Do in Memphis {Music Lovers Edition} | The Good Hearted Woman

Ruby Wilson, known as “The Queen of Beale Street,” was a blues and gospel singer, and an actress. She sang in clubs on Beale Street for over 40 years.

If you could visit Memphis, where is the first place you would go? {Let me know in the comments!}

What We Learned from Bob & Johnny at The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum

July 19 By Renée ♥ 20 Comments

A visit to The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum may change how you think about American music – in all its forms – forever.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

I’ll be honest: initially, Mr B was way more excited about visiting The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum in Nashville than I was. It makes sense; his country musical roots run deep, even back to the old-timey music of a bygone era; while mine lean more toward folk, rock, and blues. What I didn’t understand before our Tennessee trip was how profoundly his music has influenced my music (and vice versa) over time.

The Country Music Museum

Chartered in 1964, the museum portion of The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum has compiled one of the world’s most extensive musical collections, including images and photographs, oral histories, digital archives, and a priceless collection of musical instruments.

Porter - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

I was just a little kid when Porter Wagoner was big on television, but I still remember that jacket. (Seriously. How could anyone forget it?)

The heart of the museum is Sing Me Back Home: A Journey Through Country Music, a permanent exhibition that immerses visitors in the story of country music, as revealed through artifacts, photographs, vintage video and recordings, and interactive touchscreens.

The first thing that hit me as we wandered through the Sing Me Back Home exhibit was how closely our music history is tied to our cultural history in this country. Mr B and I were both particularly moved by some of the instruments on display from the early pioneers of country music. It is awe-inspiring to consider the hands that played these instruments, and their contributions to music, and how those contributions continue to influence the music we listen to today.

Autoharp - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

Sara Carter’s autoharp, Minnie Pearl’s hat, and Bill Monroe’s mandolin.

All those iconic instruments got me thinking… Over the years, how many people listened to Sara Carter play her autoharp as part of America’s first commercial rural country music group? How many skirts swirled across a wooden floor to the sound of Bill Monroe’s mandolin?

Maybelle - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

Maybelle Carter, known as “mother Maybelle,” bought this Gibson L-5 in 1928 for $275. Today it is priceless.

In addition to Sing Me Back Home and its other permanent exhibits, the museum hosts a number of temporary featured exhibits. At the time of our visit, one of these exhibits in particular made a lasting impact on me – Dylan, Cash, and the Nashville Cats.

Dylan, Cash, and the Nashville Cats

Musically, I’ve always been captivated by unlikely collaborations. (Led Zepplin’s Robert Plant and bluegrass queen Allison Krauss’ amazing collab on Raising Sand immediately comes to mind.) But our visit to the museum made it clear that the impact of these cross-genre partnerships can be deep and long-lasting, impacting long-term music culture in a myriad of ways.

Take, for example, the collaboration of Bob Dylan and Johnny Cash. (Surprised? I was!) Dylan, as you ~~hopefully~~ may know, is a musician associated far more closely with 60’s counter-culture, flower children, folk music, and the singer-songwriter enclave than traditional Country Music. And yet, there he was on the second floor of the The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum, standing right next to Johnny Cash (or rather one of Johnny’s black suits).

Johnny on Dylan - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

Bob Dylan is unquestionably a profoundly talented, poetic songwriter, writer, and Nobel prize laureate {yep!}, but singer? Well anyway, I love the sentiment of Johnny’s quote.

It turns out that, in 1966, against the advice and wishes of his record label executives, Bob Dylan came to Nashville to record his classic album Blonde on Blonde. In doing so, he inspired a string of folk and rock musicians to follow his lead, and this following became known as the Nashville Cats.

Dylan, Cash, and the Nashville Cats: A New Music City, currently a featured exhibit at the museum, highlights this iconic musical pairing. Recalling the Nashville music scene in the late ’60s and early ’70s, it illustrates clearly how this unlikely association continues to influence the music, and energize fans and musicians alike.

Other exhibits in The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum showcase contemporary artists, including those who have made a significant impact on country music in recent years. At the time of our visit, these included Jason Aldean, Shania Twain, Taylor Swift, and many others.

The Country Music Hall of Fame

In addition to providing a home for its amazing musical museum, this building is also home to The Country Music Hall of Fame. Membership in the Hall of Fame is the highest honor a country music professional can receive. Performers, songwriters, broadcasters, musicians, and executives in the industry are inducted in recognition of their contributions to the development of country music.

Spiral - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

Wall of gold records at The Country Music Hall of Fame.

The building itself is filled with musical images and symbolism. For example, from the air, the building forms a massive bass clef, and the building’s front windows are built to resemble piano keys.

Stairway - Country Music Hall of Fame | The Good Hearted Woman

Stone bars on the Rotunda’s outside wall symbolize the notes of the Carter Family’s classic song “Will the Circle Be Unbroken.”

If you are visiting Nashville, be sure to plan a visit to The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Whether you are a lifelong country music fan or simply curious, it may very well change how you think about country music forever.

Click here for more information about visiting The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum.

Disclosure: We were compensated for this post. Thanks to the Country Music Hall of Fame for giving us complementary tour tickets. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Home of 1000 Hits: RCA Studio B {Nashville}

July 11 By Renée ♥ 22 Comments

RCA Studio B is the oldest surviving recording studio in Nashville. Here, 1000 hits were brought to life and American music history was made.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
It’s just a small blue X taped out at the intersection of four old-school linoleum tiles. All by itself, it doesn’t look like much at all. Right?

Sometimes, appearances are deceiving: that blue X is the Sweet Spot at the historic RCA Studio B – a distinct point in the universe where countless artists have stood to create musical history.

Here, 1000 hits were brought to life. Stand on this spot, close your eyes, and you can’t help but feel a little chill of excitement in the connection.

Built in 1957, this unassuming little building on Nashville’s famous Music Row became a cradle for what became known as the Nashville Sound. A distinct departure from the “honky-tonk” country music of the time, the Nashville Sound was characterized by smooth strings, sophisticated background vocals, and crooning lead vocals.

Tours of RCA Studio B are arranged through The Country Music Hall of Fame. When our tour group arrived, we were ushered into an anteroom lined on three sides with pictures of musicians past and present. The fourth wall was devoted to Elvis’ recordings. We had plenty of time to scan the walls as our guide played recordings of a wide variety of artists and told us some interesting stories about them.

Mr B should be a Nashville tour guide. (Seriously, Mr B should be a Nashville star, but that’s another story for another day.) Anyway, he grew up on the old-timey country music, and as we looked around the room, he excitedly pointed out singers to me that I’d never even heard of and told me stories about them like they were second cousins.

More than 35,000 songs were recorded at Studio B during the golden age of the Nashville Sound (1957 to 1977) including more than 1,000 American hits, 40 millions-selling singles, and over 200 Elvis Presley recordings. But this place is so much more than numbers, or hit records, or even Elvis. (OK, that last one is probably debatable.)

Elvis is, of course, a big draw for many to Studio B. He recorded over 200 songs here, including Are You Lonesome Tonight, and How Great Thou Art for which he won a Grammy. (Fun fact: All three of Elvis’ Grammys were awarded for Gospel recordings.)

This Steinway, the centerpiece of RCA Studio B’s instrument collection, is known as the “Elvis Steinway Piano.” It is generally considered to be Elvis’ favorite piano, and was the one he used to rehearse before recording some of his greatest hits.

RCA Studio B: Home of 1000 Hits | The Good Hearted Woman

Photo Credit: Prayltno via Flickr [CC BY 2.0]

So many famous fingers have flown across those keys, and you can hear it being played in countless songs recorded at Studio B. (This piano is so famous that it has its very own Facebook page!) It made Mr B and I both wonder at the stories behind all those scratches and dings above the black keys.

Photo Credit: Geoff White via Flickr [CC BY-NC-ND 2.0]

Mr B is a diehard Elvis fan, but The Everly Brothers were my personal favorite in the amazing Studio B lineup. (Those harmonies!) One of their signature recordings, All I Have to Do is Dream, is the song Mr B and I always use to warm up when we sing together, and standing in the space where they first recorded it was deeply moving to both of us.

It was during our tour of Studio B that I first became fascinated with the intricate web of musical influence that reaches up from the South to weave its way into American musical history. (I’ll be sharing more about this in future posts.)

Learning about the scope and caliber of the music created in this space took my breath away. (I have to admit, that happened a lot on our Tennessee adventure.) Here’s just a sampling musicians who recorded here:

Roy Orbision recorded two of his biggest hits, Only the Lonely and Crying.
Dolly Parton wrote her mega-hits Jolene and I Will Always Love You on the same day and recorded both here, as she did Coat of Many Colors, her beautiful tribute to her life in Appalachia.
Waylon Jennings recorded, among others, Only Daddy That’ll Walk the Line, That’s The Chance I’ll Have To Take, and Stop The World (And Let Me Off) – years before Outlaw Country was even a flicker.
Charlie Pride recorded Kiss an Angel Good Morning and Is Anybody Going To San Antone here. (My Dad used to sing Charlie Pride while he mowed the lawn. Mr B sings his songs to me now.

Studio B is still a working recording studio, and modern-day artists like Carrie Underwood, Martina McBride, Wynonna, and many others have followed their legendary predecessors into this amazing space. In terms of the evolution of American music, the impact of RCA Studio B and the artists who recorded there cannot be overemphasized; moreover, regardless of your musical tastes, they have unquestionably influenced the music you listen to today.

Next up: The Country Music Hall of Fame

Chairs - RCA Studio B: Home of 1000 Hits | The Good Hearted Woman

If those walls could talk.

**Take the RCA Studio B Tour!**

If you are planning to visit Nashville, RCA Studio B needs to be on your itinerary. Tours are available for a relatively small additional fee (currently about $11) to anyone who purchases admission to The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum. Start to finish, the tour lasts about one hour, and transportation is included.

^{Disclosure: Many thanks to the Country Music Hall of Fame for providing us with complementary tour tickets. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

The Sound Nashville Music Tour ♫ ♪ Songwriters Welcome

June 20 By Renée ♥ 43 Comments

On The Sound Nashville Music Tour, you’ll see the sights and hear the sounds of Nashville – and write a song while you do it!

^{We teamed up with The Sound Music Tour to bring you this sponsored post. This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

There is so much to see and do in Nashville, and one of the best ways to get an introduction to it all is to take a bus tour around town. However, I’ve been on enough tour buses to know that sometimes the “tour talk” can be a little dry. That’s why I was so excited when I stumbled onto The Sound Nashville Music Tour, one of the many Nashville music-centered bus tour companies.

Mr B and I chose The Sound Nashville Music Tour because it uniquely embraces and utilizes the soul of Music City – its singer-songwriter community. On this family-friendly 90-minute tour, the guides are real Nashville songwriters who sing and entertain the group while presenting an engaging overview of the city and its history. And here’s the best part: as the bus putters through the city, the tour guides help the whole group write a song! Then, at the end of the tour, everyone piles off the bus and gets a chance to see it performed live on stage! And don’t worry if you aren’t a songwriter (or can’t even carry a tune): as long as you can clap and smile, you’ll be fine.

Our tour departed promptly from our gathering place in front of the George Jones Museum. When we all had settle ourselves into our seats on the bus, our tour guides, singer-songwriters Glenn Michael and Maddy Rodriguez, introduced themselves and handed out rhythm instruments to everyone.

Glenn and Maddy were engaging and full of fun stories about Nashville, both past and present, and they made sure to include everyone on the tour in the song writing efforts. Glenn gave us a lot by way of Nashville history, and gave us a feel for what songwriters and musicians go through to make their mark in the city. He was full of suggestions about the best places to listen to music or grab a bite to eat, and gave everyone coupons for fried pickles (yes, that is a thing) if we could answer his music trivia questions.

Maddy - Sound Nashville Music Tour 2017 | The Good Hearted Woman

At just 23, Maddy has already won a number of awards for her music, including the Grand Prize in the country category of the John Lennon Songwriting Contest [2014, Session II] for her song Fascinated. (Listen on her website.)

The tour passes by most of the famous music venues in town, including Ryman Auditorium, Music Row, Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, Legend’s Corner, and The Listening Room Cafe; as well as a number of city landmarks like the famous Musica statue, The Gulch, and The Parthenon.

(Did you know that Nashville has a FULL SIZE replica of The Parthenon?!? Me neither!)

Nashville Parthenon | The Good Hearted Woman

The Parthenon in Nashville, Tennessee is a full-scale replica of the original Parthenon in Athens. It was built in 1897 as part of the Tennessee Centennial Exposition.

I should probably also mention that this tour is BYOB, and tourists are encouraged to bring whatever beverage tickles their fancy. There are a couple of places just steps away from the tour meeting point where you can grab growler or a pitcher of mimosas for the road. (For the record, Mr B and I brought water, because we are boring that way sometimes.)

"Sacrifice Something for what means the most" [tattoo] Sound Nashville Music Tour 2017 | The Good Hearted Woman

“Sacrifice Something for what means the most.” I was intrigued with Glenn’s tattoo: there’s a lot in those seven little words, especially for creatives. Glenn started playing music when he was 12, and has played some prestigious clubs across the country. Raised in Connecticut, he now calls Nashville home. Glenn has recorded three records (available on iTunes), and is currently writing songs for his fourth.

Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge

Over the course of the tour, between stretches of Glenn’s informative “tour guide” monologue, he and Maddy suggested lyrics and solicited relevant rhyming words to fill out the “Sound of Nashville” song-frame that they use. For example, someone on our tour suggested “Cheryl Crowe” and “garden hoe.” If you watch the video at the beginning of this post, you’ll hear that line toward the end in the “alternate chorus.”

Legends - Sound Nashville Music Tour 2017 | The Good Hearted Woman

Legends Corner – Mr B took some ribbing from his little brother for this shot. Despite appearances, he is not carrying a purse: it’s a bag full of Patsy Cline CD’s that he bought for his Mama… and my parasol.

Wait. What? Back up… They don’t make up a brand new song every time they pull the bus away from the curb?!?

Nope. Sorry if I’m bursting your bubble or giving away trade secrets, but seriously; think about it. Mr B and I write the occasional song ourselves, so I can tell you from experience that there is no way Glenn and Maddy, or any other songwriter I’ve ever known – no matter how talented they are (yes, even Dan Fogelberg) – could create a catchy, original song twice a day at the drop of a hat, especially with a bus full of tourists. I mean, can you imagine how stressful that would be – for everyone? Nope – using a prefab song with flexible lyrics is the only way to go.

The only problem with the song they use – – ♫♪ Oh I hear the sound of Nashville | everywhere I go…♪♫ – – is that it’s so catchy that it gets into your head and won’t leave. Like the theme from Gilligan’s Island. You’ll be listening to it on constant loop for days on end while you replay all those images from your tour in your head. Which, come to think of it, might not be such a bad thing after all.

TRAVEL TIP

If you take the 11 am tour, we highly recommend stopping in at Another Broken Egg Cafe for brunch. Located just half a block from the George Jones Museum where The Sound tour departs, you’ll find the place bustling, the food and drinks delicious, and the staff friendly and welcoming. (Kudos to our server, Becca, for her bubbly personality, easy conversation, and ability to mix a mimosa in eight seconds flat!)

^{Disclosure: Our thanks to the The Sound Nashville Music Tour for giving us complementary tour tickets. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Nashville & Memphis for Music Lovers {Tips & Itinerary}

June 16 By Renée ♥ 22 Comments

This is our real-life trip itinerary. Follow along as we recap our adventures in Memphis & Nashville over the next few months, or use it to plan your own musical Tennessee vacation. Either way, we’ve got you covered.

Music Lovers Guide to Nashville & Memphis | The Good Hearted Woman

Bucket List 😉

One of the biggest challenges of taking a “whirlwind” trip is designing an itinerary that allows you to experience everything you want while still leaving room for some relaxation and a little serendipity. Mr B and I have no interest in relentless nightmare itineraries that keep us running every single moment of the day: we always like to keep a little wiggle room in our plans, because you just never know.

What follows is our real-life trip itinerary. This vacation plan – with all the scheduling details already mapped out for you – is designed to take four complete days: a total of two days each in Nashville and Memphis. (Obviously, if you need to travel very far to get to Tennessee, as we did, it will take six days including travel.) If you think you want to plug more action into your days and nights, go for it. As it was, we stayed pretty darn busy!

Throughout the next few months, we’ll be posting detailed recaps about most of our Tennessee adventures, so stay tuned. (I’ll insert related links into this itinerary as they post, too.)

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry. They don’t bite.

Day 1 – NASHVILLE

[Note: “Day 1” is the most tightly scheduled day on this four-day itinerary.]

Book in advance:

Nashville hotel (2 nights)
The Sound Nashville Music (11 am tour)
Studio B (1:30 pm Tour)
Hatch Print Museum (3:30 pm tour)

Enjoy a delicious breakfast (and maybe a pitcher of mimosas!) at Another Broken Egg Café. (It’s half a block from where The Sound tour begins.)
Get an introduction to Music City on The Sound Nashville Music Tour. [Guided Tour Bus]
Grab a quick lunch at Bajo Sexto Taco at the Country Music Hall of Fame. (We ate here mostly because it is located right in the Hall of Fame and the timing between our bus tour and our Studio B Tour was a bit tight.)
Start your self-guided walking tour of the Country Music Hall of Fame. [1:00 pm]
Take the Studio B Tour. [Bus leaves/returns directly from the Country Music Hall of Fame.]
Continue touring the Hall of Fame.
Take the Hatch Show Print Tour. [Located at the Hall of Fame]
Continue touring the Hall of Fame until closing time. [5:00pm]
Walk on down the Honky Tonk Highway on Lower Broadway. Be sure to swing by Legend’s Corner, Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, and the Ernest Tubb Record Shop.
Have a late-night, lip-smacking, finger-licking Nashville Hot Chicken for dinner at Hattie B’s. (The lines will be significantly shorter after 8pm.)
Wrap up the evening listening to some talented up-and-coming singer-songwriters at The Listening Room Café.

Day 2 – NASHVILLE to MEMPHIS

Book in advance:

The Guest House at Graceland (2 nights. Inquire about available packages)
Ryman Auditorium Tour (11 am or earlier)

Check out of your Nashville hotel. Enjoy a relaxing breakfast at one of many delicious Nashville breakfast spots.
Take the Ryman Auditorium Backstage Tour
Eat a fast lunch at White Castle (Oh, yes we did.)
Drive to Memphis (3 hours)
Take the Sun Studio Tour (Tours start on the half-hour. You should easily get into Memphis in time to catch the 4:30 tour. Last tour is at 5:30.)
Check into The Guest House at Graceland.
Drive on out to Beale Street and take a walk to enjoy the sights, sounds, and all the feels.
Stop in for dinner & blues at BB King’s Blues Club on the corner of Beale & 2nd Avenue.
Return to The Guest House and get a good night’s sleep!

Day 3 – MEMPHIS

Book in advance:

Elvis Presley’s Memphis VIP passes
Gibson Guitar Factory Tour (4 pm or 5 pm tour)

Eat breakfast at Delta’s Kitchen at the The Guest House at Graceland.
Ride the hotel shuttle to Elvis Presley’s Memphis.
Take the early tour of Graceland Mansion.
Return to Elvis Presley’s Memphis, and grab some lunch at Gladys’ Diner.
Explore Elvis Presley’s Memphis until mid-afternoon. Be sure to stop at the VIP room to relax and get some great pictures.
About Drive back down to Beale Street.
Tour the Gibson Memphis Guitar Factory.
Tour the Rock & Soul Museum. (Literally right across the street from Gibson. Open until 7 pm most days.)
Enjoy an amazing dinner at Marlowe’s BBQ, just a mile down the road from The Guest House. (Try the BBQ Spaghetti!)
Stop by and sign the Graceland Wall on your way back to The Guest House.

Day 4 – MEMPHIS to NASHVILLE

Book in advance:

Elvis Presley’s Memphis passes
Nashville hotel (1 night)
Grand Ole Opry Concert

Eat an early breakfast at Delta’s Kitchen at the The Guest House.
Check out of The Guest House. (Be sure to get a pass for the parking lot so that you can pick up your car later. You can take your car with you, but it will cost you an extra $10 to park at Graceland.)
Ride The Guest House shuttle to Elvis Presley’s Memphis. Revisit your favorite exhibits from the previous day, check any you might have missed, and be sure to pick up a little something in one of the many gift shops for the folks back home.
Ride The Guest House shuttle back to The Guest House parking lot and pick up your car.
Grab a quick lunch at Krystal. (We did this so that we could compare the two sliders and report back to you. See how we are? 😉 )
Drive back to Nashville. (3 hours)
Visit Carter Vintage Guitar Shop. (Do not skip this. It’s a quick stop, but totally worth it.)
Check into your Nashville hotel.
Ice your vacation cake by attending an iconic Grand Ole Opry Concert.
Catch some late-night live music on the Honky Tonk Highway.

Hey, Renée! Why didn’t you just fly into Nashville, stay two days, and then drive over to Memphis for two days and fly out?

Sigh. Sadly, Mr B and I don’t have a trust fund or unlimited disposable income. We are what is known as “budget travelers,” and one of the ways we keep costs down is by flying in and out of the same airport. (Car rental fees skyrocket when you drop off at a different location from your pick-up.) Moreover, this itinerary is offered simply as a guide: if you are planning a trip to Tennessee, you can do anything you want – it’s your trip!

Disclosure: As always, all opinions are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details.

Love Music? Then Add Tennessee to Your Bucket List!

June 13 By Renée ♥ 30 Comments

If music is the pulse of America, its heartbeat is in Tennessee.

If you love music, you need to add Memphis and Nashville to your Bucket List! Before Mr B and I went on our musical adventure to Tennessee, I thought I knew a lot about the history and evolution of music in America. Not even. We both learned so much on this trip, and I can’t wait to share it all with you!

Back when Mr B and I were in high school together, he was mildly obsessed with Elvis. In a healthy way, but still. He used to listen to Elvis All. The. Time. I, on the other hand, was more of a Boston/Journey/Billy Joel/Fogelberg kinda girl. (Still am.) For me, Elvis was “Dad” music at best, and a little went a long way.

Now as I may have mentioned, Mr B is an extremely talented vocalist. Back in school, he’d often try to emulate Elvis’ tone and style; and vocally, he was as good as any Elvis impersonator as I’ve ever heard. (I still tease him even today that if we ever find ourselves in dire straits, I’m going to make him a bedazzled white jumpsuit and set him out on the curb to sing for our supper.) But my point is, visiting Graceland has been on Mr B’s bucket list almost forever, and this year, I decided that for our anniversary, I was going to fill that bucket up. In other words, this trip was conceived solely for him: I was just going along for the ride.

Then something strange happened along the way: by the time I had our trip all planned out, I was just as excited to go as I knew he would be! As a music maker and songwriter myself, I was completely enthralled with the whole amazing musical journey we were about to embark upon – from the Mother Church of Country Music to Graceland to the Birthplace of the Blues. Needless to say, it took all of the self-control I had to keep my secret until our anniversary in early April.

To present Mr B with his gift, I made a little silver “bucket” and filled it with six laminated cards – one for each day of our trip (including two travel days). When I gave his bucket to him, he spent a few minutes reading through each of the cards, and then… I saw the light go on. The moment he figured it all out is one I will never forget. (Suffice it to say, it may have involved Kleenex.) Priceless doesn’t even begin to paint the picture.

I hope that you will join us as we recap our musical journey over the next few months here on the blog: even if you never plan to set foot in Tennessee, you will definitely appreciate what it has to offer. And for those who are even thinking about visiting Tennessee – especially if you love music like we do – I’m telling you now: you gotta go!!!

NEXT UP: Nashville & Memphis for Music Lovers: 4-Day Travel Itinerary for First-timers