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Earth & Fire, Inspired {Orcas Island Pottery}

From one generation to the next, through earth and fire, Orcas Island Pottery continues to create and inspire.

In my experience, the need for art is one of the strongest connections humans have, both with the past and with one another. About ten years ago, I had the privilege of visiting the Gallery of Chinese Ancient Ceramics at the Shanghai Museum in Shanghai, China. I remember standing just feet from pottery that dated back thousands of years, separated from each piece by only a thin transparent wall. As I peered through the glass, all I could think about was the long-forgotten hands that created those beautiful pieces; and more broadly, about the inborn and seemingly essential human desire to create. I find that last aspect infinitely intriguing; nearly mystical, in fact. It feeds a question that percolates in my brain often: What place does art, and particularly its creation, have in our survival, both as individuals and as cultures?

I didn’t set out to get all existential on you, but our visit to Orcas Island Pottery caused me to ponder this question once again. We tend to think of such things – the creation of cultural art and artifacts – in terms of ancient history, as in the Shanghai relics or (more close to home) Pacific Northwest Native American/First Nations artifacts. However, in the case of Orcas Island Pottery, that tradition of artisans passing on their wisdom through earth and fire from one generation to the next to create enduring art and artifacts is still burns brightly even today.

Orcas Island Pottery is the oldest pottery in the Pacific Northwest and one of our favorite places on Orcas Island. The pottery opened in 1945, when Joe and Marclay Sherman dug their first clay out of the island banks and created the studio and store that visitors have come to know as an island institution.

Knowledge passed from grandmother and mother to daughter is intrinsic to the Orcas Island Pottery story, and the aspect that intrigues me the most. In 1953, Julia Crandall bought the pottery from the Shermans, who taught Julia and her daughter Trudy all that they knew. In 1989, Trudy’s daughter, Syd Exton, became the manager and lead potter, and inherited the pottery from her grandmother in 1993.

Now some fifteen potters make and display their works at the store. Much of the pottery is displayed outdoors, and the a view across President’s Channel to Waldron Island and beyond, is magnificent.

Despite warnings to the contrary, Orcas Island Pottery really isn’t difficult to find at all – just follow the signs. When you come to the last turn, you will find yourself on unpaved road. Drive down it (you can’t get lost) until you get to the parking lot, and then take the foot path down through the rough garden arbor and into the yard, where you will immediately find yourself surrounded by some of the most uniquely beautiful pottery in the entire PNW region.

There you will find a whimsical pottery garden, complete with fountains, a swing, and a large tree-house for the kids (and kids at heart!).

So, why do humans make art? Certainly, in the case of pottery, it is both functional and beautiful, but a plain clay pitcher holds water as well as one with a tricolor glaze. What makes us strive to transcend functionality and reach for something more?

I believe that we have an instinctive need to Create Beauty. To make, and to endure in some way through our making. Our art communicates who we are and what is important to us. It tells our story. In these ways, it is as necessary to the endurance of humanity as water.

What do you think? Why do we create art?

Planning a trip to Orcas Island? Be sure to check out my Orcas Island Vacation Guide!

The Best Kept Secret on Orcas Island {Plus, Chocolate}

April 4 By Renée 14 Comments

The quiet, remote, revitalizing peace of Orcas Island in the springtime may just be one of the island’s best kept secrets.

(My guess is that there are plenty of uber-mysterious, Goonie-esque, islander-only secrets too, but let’s just save that for the novel, shall we?)

It was the middle of the summer the last time we visited the San Juan islands, and as you might expect, every business was bustling, the farmer’s markets were in full swing, and tourists were everywhere. And while we enjoyed our summer stay on the island enough to want to return, it was our visit this spring that made us want to stay forever (maybe, someday!). Early spring is an extension of the winter slow season on Orcas (“the Rock” in local lingo), and so much of the time, we felt as though we had the whole island to ourselves.

During our time on Orcas Island, we stayed at the Deer Harbor Inn (which we will be posting about in detail later this week). Once we had settled into our room in the lodge, we set out to explore.

Even in the off-season, there are so many things to see and do on the island that we had no trouble filling our days. We were excited to return to some of our favorite spots from our previous visit to Orcas, and the first stop on our itinerary was Orcas Island Pottery. The pottery there is so beautiful, and the story so interesting that we have a whole post about it coming up tomorrow, but here’s a little sneak peek.

Following our stop at Orcas Island Pottery, we continued on to Eastsound, the largest of the four hamlets on the Orcas Island. Eastsound is home to a wide variety of charming shops, specialty boutiques, and restaurants. This is also where you can find such things as a bank, pharmacy, grocery stores and public library. I especially enjoyed our visit to Jillery, a favorite shop for locals and visitors alike. Jillery offers an eclectic mix of artisan-made jewelry, art, and personal, home, and garden accessories.

Everyone who knows me knows I have a weakness for long, beautiful earrings (plus I have a thing for mermaids) so it’s no surprise that I fell in love with this mermaid earring holder!

No visit to Eastsound is complete without a stop at Katherine Taylor Chocolates. There you will find island-made artisan chocolates, drinking chocolate, Stumptown Espesso, ice cream, and even a soda fountain!

There are so many beautiful sights to see on Orcas Island that you really do need to take an old-fashioned drive in the country. You never know who you might run into!

Cows on Orcas Island | The Good Hearted Woman

We met these beautiful ladies in while driving in the countryside, and stopped to chat for a few minutes. They’re pretty great listeners.

Traveling to the east side of the island, you will find the picturesque hamlet of Olga, and the Orcas Island Artworks, a cooperative gallery. Artworks, which shares space with the Catkin Café (with its all-scratch kitchen!), and the James Hardman Gallery, is housed in a strawberry barreling plant that dates back to 1938.

The lovingly restored landmark now showcases an extensive collection of work by Orcas Island artists and craftspeople, the Artworks Gallery offers paintings, prints, jewelry, pottery, sculpture, glass, wood, fiber and wearable arts, as well as other locally made items and gifts.

Artworks is owned and operated by the artists themselves, which gives visitors the unique opportunity to meet one or more of them on any given day. The day we visited, we were fortunate to meet raku artist and potter Osa Caudill.

One final stop that we must share: The beautiful Moran Mansion Museum, located on the second floor of the Rosario Resort & Spa. Open daily and free of charge for public viewing, a visit to the Moran Mansion at Rosario is stepping back in time.

This beautiful tribute to the Arts & Crafts movement of the early 20th century was built Seattle Shipbuilder and Mayor Robert Moran. The mansion features original photographs from the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, original furnishings and fixtures, and an extensive display of the ships built by the Moran Brothers Company in Seattle.

The centerpiece of the Moran mansion is the Music Room, which features a two-story 1913 Aeolian pipe organ, a 1900 Steinway grand piano, a Belgian stain-glass window picturing the harbor at Antwerp, and two mezzanine libraries overlooking a Tiffany chandelier. (By the way, if you are lucky enough to be there at 4pm on Saturday afternoon, you will be treated to both music and historical narrative in the Music Room.)

Stay tuned! There’s lots more to come about Orcas Island, including an awesome day hike, cheap eats, and [hopefully!] a surprise or two!

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Planning a trip to Orcas Island? Be sure to check out our Orcas Island Vacation Guide!

Why Orcas Island May Be the Most Relaxing Vacation Spot in the Pacific NW

March 29 By Renée 18 Comments

Last week, Mr B and I took the most peaceful, relaxing, inspiring vacation ever – to Orcas Island. We loved it so much that we almost didn’t come home.

Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juan Islands, located off the northern coast of Washington State. Just over an hour by ferry from the mainland city of Anacortes, Orcas is a Pacific NW vacation paradise.

I’ll be sharing the highlights and island must-dos over the course of the next few days, but in the meantime, here’s the nutshell version:

5 Reasons Why Orcas Island May Be the Most Relaxing Vacation Spot in the Pacific NW

[1] The Journey There
When you vacation on an island, getting there is half the fun, and you’re sure to see some wonderful sights along the way. The easiest way to get to Orcas Island is to take the Washington State Ferry from Anacortes, Washington. (If you’re feeling spunky, you can do what I do and pretend it’s a mini-cruise.) If you go, be sure to plan a few hours to stroll Historic Downtown Anacortes before you catch your ferry. (Lots more about this tomorrow!)

Cormorants on the Orcas Island Ferry Pier | The Good Hearted Woman

These two cormorants were part of the meet-n-greet committee at the Orcas Island Ferry Pier.

[2] The Artisan Community
Orcas Island has a thriving community of artisans that throws open doors of welcome to visitors in studios, shops and galleries all over the island. You can spend hours just looking at (or in my case, touching) (or trying not to touch, as the situation warrants) beautiful hand-created pieces of fabulous and functional art. We especially enjoyed all the beautiful pottery.

Orcas Island Pottery | The Good Hearted Woman

A picnic table loaded with Steamer Pots at Orcas Island Pottery.

[3] The Food
The folks on Orcas Island do not mess around when it comes to creating beautiful, delicious food. We ate often and well.

Pan-seared Alaskan Scallops at the New Leaf Cafe

[4] The Active Life
Orcas Island offers a multitude of outdoor sports for the active vacationers. It was a little too chilly this March for swimming, but lots of other activities were definitely accessible, including camping, boating, climbing, hiking, bicycling, and our favorite – kayaking. You can bring your own gear, or borrow from one of a handful of rental places that freckle the island. Day tours are available through several local companies as well.

[5] The Peace & Quiet
Above all else, it was the tranquility of the island experience that captured our hearts. The landscape is idyllic and inspiring, with open fields and farmhouses inland, wooded countryside, and amazing, sweeping vistas. It is, in a word, bliss.

I’ll be featuring Orcas Island food, recipes, destinations and art in upcoming posts, so be sure to stay tuned!

Planning a trip to Orcas Island? Be sure to check out my Orcas Island Vacation Guide!