Discovering El Paso: One Day of FREE FUN!

El Paso abounds with FREE fun! Explore the historic Plaza Theater, discover El Paso’s past at the Museum of History, take a scenic drive for an amazing view of three states and two countries – and even visit the downtown pool where live alligators once frolicked!

One of the things I like most about El Paso is the abundance of free fun to be had there. You can enjoy an entire day exploring this thriving city for just the price of lunch!

In two previous “Discover El Paso” posts, I’ve shared our experiences on the Mission Trail and at the historic Concordia Cemetery, both free activities. Today I’m tying our west Texas tour in a bow by sharing an itinerary (read: loose outline) for a completely FREE DAY of activities.

If you have one day to spend in El Paso, and you don’t want to spend a lot of money, you have come to the right place!

NOTE: Sometime during your day, you’re probably going to need to buy lunch and/or dinner, which are not free. To that end, I’ve listed a few El Paso Good Eats at the bottom of the post.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

ONE FREE DAY IN EL PASO

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Downtown El Paso.
Explore the El Paso Museum of History.
Tour the Plaza Theater.
Check out the El Paso County Courthouse.
Grab some lunch at Rosa’s Cantina or Salt & Honey.
Wander through Concordia Cemetery.
Cruise up El Paso’s Scenic Drive & Overlook.
Drive El Paso’s historic Mission Trail **
Treat yourself to a dinner at Cattleman’s. (Be sure to go early and explore the grounds!)

** El Paso’s historic Mission Trail is well worth your time, and if you are visiting town for only one day, you can see it all in a couple of hours if you are dedicated. However, if you have more than a day in town, I suggest that you reserve an entire morning or afternoon for the Mission Trail and just take it casual.

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Downtown El Paso

One of the best ways to explore a new city is boots on the ground. Get out there and walk!

This map illustrates our walking route through downtown El Paso, and will take you by all of the locations listed above.

If you take this route, plan for at least two hours, especially if you are lucky enough to score a tour of the Plaza Theater! This is an easy, level walk that covers just under one mile one way.

Be sure to see:

San Jacinto Plaza
Los Lagartos [Gator Statue] (in San Jacinto Plaza)
DIGIE – Digital Information Gateway in El Paso
El Paso Museum of History
Fray Garcia de San Francisco [Statue] (Right outside the Plaza Theatre)
Plaza Theater
El Paso County Courthouse

NOTE for Nervous Travelers: El Paso often gets a bad rap for its proximity to Juarez, Mexico; however, it actually has a crime rate significantly lower than the national average, and ranked as the 7th safest metropolitan city in the United States in 2018.

SAN JACINTO PLAZA

San Jacinta Plaza opened in 1883 in the heart of downtown El Paso as a place where visitors could relax amid a walled pond and gazebo, seventy-five Chinese elm trees, and a small congregation of alligators.

Because yes: there were alligators.

Live alligators.

Alligator Pool, San Jacinta Plaza, El Paso, Texas [postcard, circa 1913]

From the beginning, the alligators were the central attraction of the plaza, and at one time, the walled pond that served as their home held as many as seven of them.

The alligators were moved to the El Paso Zoo in 1965, and after a brief, failed attempt to bring them back in the mid-70’s, their pond was permanently removed.

The plaza is still fondly known to locals as “La Plaza de los Lagartos,” or Alligator Plaza. Today, a fiberglass sculpture by nationally acclaimed El Paso artist Luis Jiménez honors the original alligators.

Discovering El Paso: Top FREE Things To Do - San Jacinto Plaza | The Good Hearted Woman

Many interesting and historical building are just steps away from San Jacinto Plaza.

SAN JACINTO PLAZA TRAVELER NOTES

San Jacinto Plaza is located on the corner of Oregon and Mills in the heart of Downtown El Paso, Texas. Visitors should be aware that (to my knowledge) there are no restrooms in the Plaza. At the time of our visit, the nearest restrooms appeared to be the ones at the Starbucks across the street.

EL PASO MUSEUM OF HISTORY

The El Paso Museum of History is a small but interesting local museum that promotes the understanding and significance of the rich, multicultural and multinational history of the border region known as “The Pass of the North.”

Like all the attractions on this itinerary, the museum is free. It is also clean, air-conditioned, and has a public bathroom – making it a bargain at twice the price, as my dad used to say. (Especially on a hot day in August!)

The museum is very kid-friendly, especially on the ground floor, where you will find a number of interactive displays. We spent about forty minutes there, which is about all you will need.

We probably would have spent longer at the museum, but we didn’t know that there was a second floor. This, I came to learn after the fact, is where much of the historical information and artifacts are found. That brings me to my only complaint about the museum: it would be helpful to visitors to have clear directions or discovery paths so they don’t miss half the exhibits. But really, that’s on us for not exploring more.

DIGIE – Digital Information Gateway in El Paso

Immediately outside the entrance to the El Paso Museum of History, you will find The large touchscreen digital wall. Known as DIGIE [Digital Information Gatewayin El Paso] it is the second digital wall in the world and the first in the United States.

The wall is made up of five huge touch screens that offer an interactive view of the history of El Paso, with images, video, and information covering from present day back through the 1600’s.

This display is extremely well researched and curated, and we all enjoyed interacting with it immensely. (I definitely should have taken video. Next time!)

El Paso Museum of History
510 N Santa Fe St
El Paso, TX 79901-1145

Phone: 915.212.3120

HOURS

Tuesday-Saturday: 9 am to 5 pm
Thursdays: 9 am to 9 pm
Sunday 12 pm to 5 pm
Closed Mondays & City Holidays

More than a hundred brightly-painted murals can be found throughout El Paso. Reflecting a rich Mexican storytelling tradition, these pieces of public art depict El Paso’s history and community pride.

FRAY GARCIA de SAN FRANCISCO MONUMENT

Fray Garcia Monument honors the priest who founded the El Paso area’s first mission. Located the corner of El Paso and San Francisco Streets just outside the entrance to the Plaza Theater.

Sculpted in 1996 by El Paso native John Houser, the 14-foot bronze sculpture is a testament to the great legacy of this Spanish missionary who was known for his kind heart.

PLAZA THEATER

{Officially, The Plaza Theatre Performing Arts Center}’

The Plaza Theater is one of El Paso’s most iconic landmarks. This grand monument to old world elegance hosts two theaters: the 2,050-seat Kendall Kidd Performance Hall, and the smaller 200-seat Philanthropy Theatre. The Plaza hosts concerts, Broadway shows, individual performers, and the annual Plaza Classic Film Festival.

The ladies working at the theater that morning seemed almost excited to show us around.

Tours for the public are held every Tuesday at 12pm, and if you can work your schedule around that, by all mean, do so. Unfortunately, we were there on Friday morning, with no Tuesdays in sight. However, when my BFF Jenny asked at the ticket booth, we were immediately invited us inside.

From the outside, you would never know what awaits you beyond the doors. Once you enter, the opulence and grandeur of the space is stunning.

The Plaza Theater first opened September 12, 1930, with advertisements touting it to be the largest theater of its kind between Dallas and Los Angeles. Over the decades, it presented everything from burlesque shows to stage plays to movies.

In the 1950’s the theater began to fall into disrepair, and at one point in 1989 was scheduled for demolition before the community support was able to raise enough finds to save it. The theater was completely refurbished, with great attention and care given to preserving both its structure and history, and reopened in 2006.

One of my favorite spaces at the Plaza was the ladies lounge.

Additional Information

The Plaza Theatre
1 Civic Center Plaza
El Paso, TX 79901-1153

PHONE: 915-534-0600

Weekly public tours on Tuesdays at 12:00 pm. For information on tours of the Plaza Theatre, please call 915-534-0660.

EL PASO COUNTY COURTHOUSE

While I don’t typically make it a point to stop at the county courthouse when I visit a new city, in El Paso’s case I made an exception. Because their county courthouse is exceptional.

The mural inside the atrium of the El Paso County Courthouse are simply beautiful. Spanning three walls and protected by a glass ceiling, “Our History” depicts artist Carlos Callejo’s vision of El Paso’s history in a vibrant, dynamic blend of past, present, and future.

Justice in the life and conduct of the State is possible only
as it first resides in the hearts and souls of the citizens.

~ Inscription over the entrance to the US Dept of Justice, Washington, DC.

CRUISE EL PASO’S SCENIC DRIVE & OVERLOOK

“Not many cities have a mountain range right in the middle of their city,
and still fewer have a spectacular drive around the rim of their mountains.
El Paso has both.”

El Paso’s spectacular Scenic Drive winds along the southern tip of the Franklin Mountains, affording visitors a stunning view of El Paso, Juarez, Mexico across the Rio Grande, and just a bit of New Mexico.

Discovering El Paso: Top FREE Things To Do - Scenic Drive | The Good Hearted Woman

To get the most out of your drive, pull over at the small park and scenic overlook for a spectacular view across El Paso and Juarez. If you are driving, look for the US flag that will likely be flapping in the relentless wind – you will find a small parking lot at its base, and an extended viewpoint that is ideal for capturing that perfect panorama.

Be aware that the drive is closed to cars on Sundays, making for a pleasant pedestrian stroll or bicycle ride. On hot days, you may welcome the ice cream truck that is often parked there.

Also, and I cannot emphasize this strongly enough: dress for the weather. In cooler weather, it can be VERY windy! And for Pete’s sake, DO NOT (as I did) wear anything that even resembles a dress. (Thank goodness for leggings!!) We visited during the cooler months, but if you are there when it’s hot, be sure to bring sun protection.

Visit El Paso – More Info

Union Depot Visitor Information Center
400 W. San Antonio

(915) 534-0661.

Mon-Fri 9 am-4 pm
Sat 9 am-2 pm

Airport Visitor Information Center
El Paso International Airport – Main Lobby

(915) 534-0658.

Mon-Fri 8 am-8 pm
Sat-Sun 8 am-5 pm

VISIT EL PASO APP: El Paso has a handy “Visit El Paso” app, available for Android or IOS. The app provides up-to-date information about things to see and do in El Paso, and you can also get more information on El Paso’s culture, attractions, hotels, and restaurants.

EL PASO GOOD EATS

As promised, here’s a quick overview of three of the places we dined while visiting El Paso. One is a sentimental favorite, one is a West Texas institution, and one is a Must Try!

Must Try: SALT + HONEY BAKERY CAFE

When I walked into Salt + Honey for the first time, I felt like I had been transported to a new hip-n-trendy Portland brunch spot! Located in El Paso’s historic Five Points, the trendy local favorite is a modern bakery and café that brings together delicious, world-inspired cuisine in an urban-style cafe setting.

Owner Maggie Asfahani has crafted an innovative menu that embraces influences from both her Lebanese heritage and her El Paso roots, and the result is slow food at its best: beautiful, surprising, comforting, and delicious.

Salt + Honey’s offerings include [below, clockwise from upper-left] Baklava Pancakes with baklava nut streusel, vanilla bean ice cream, house spiced honey; Spicy Chicken Sandwich with honey gochujang sauce and sesame ginger slaw (like many menu items, this can be ordered vegetarian as well, substituting cauliflower for the chicken); homemade baklava; and Salt + Honey Burger with angus pattie, sharp cheddar, tomato, arugula, and gochujang mayo on a brioche bun.

I prefer a savory brunch over a sweet one, so I went with the Tacos Borrachos with Michelada-braised brisket, green chile cheese hashbrowns, tomato, and cilantro-lime crema on corn tortillas. The combination was which was amazing – and easily enough for two to share. Tacos Borrachos can be ordered with an egg, too, which I think I will do if I ever get another chance to visit.

My brunch buddy, Dottie, had the Hummus Avocado Toast with tomato, arugula, zaatar, crushed red pepper, maldon salt, olive oil, on whole grain bread. So of course I had to have a bite (because Research), and found it to be amazingly tasty, with a satisfying blend of textures and fresh, bright flavors.

El Paso Good Eats: Salt + Honey, EL Paso, Texas | The Good Hearted Woman

Hummus Avocado Toast with tomato, arugula, zaatar, crushed red pepper, maldon salt, olive oil, on whole grain bread

Service is friendly, prices are reasonable, and portions are generous to say the least.

Salt + Honey serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch all day, Tuesdays through Sundays, and offers locally roasted coffee and cold-pressed juices to compliment their pastries and cakes, which are all baked in-house. Be aware that this is hopping, especially for weekend brunch, so if you visit at peak hours, plan for a bit of a wait.

Salt + Honey
801 N. Piedras St. Suite 6
El Paso, Texas

PHONE: 915.313.4907

Restaurant Hours:
Monday: Closed
Tuesday – Thursday: 7:00am – 4:00pm
Friday: 7:00am – 5:00pm
Saturday-Sunday: 8:00am – 4:00pm

Sentimental Favorite: ROSA’S CANTINA

C’mon in, folks! With a blog named “The Good Hearted Woman” and a husband who listens to Marty Robbins far more than the average Joe, I couldn’t very well visit El Paso without stopping in at Rosa’s Cantina.

(NOTE: If this reference is lost on you, you are probably too young to visit Rosa’s anyway.)

From the outside, Rosa’s looks a little rough around the edges, but don’t let that put you off. Once inside, the vibe is relaxed, the margaritas are top-notch, and you can listen to Marty Robbins sing about Felina from the jukebox all day long if you have enough quarters. Our Tex-mex scored a solid Good on the foodie scale, and our service was fast and friendly.

Rosa’s Cantina
3454 Doniphan Dr
El Paso, Texas

There is a little merch corner where you can buy Rosa’s branded t-shirts, shot glasses, and the like.

Restaurant Hours:
Tuesday – Friday: 11:00 am – 7:00 pm
Saturday & Sunday: Noon – 7:00 pm

Bar Hours:
Tuesday – Thursday: 11:00 am – 12:00 am
Friday & Saturday: 12:00 pm – 2:00 am
Sunday: 12:00 pm – 12:00 am

PHONE: 915.833.0402

Texas Institution: CATTLEMAN’S STEAKHOUSE AT INDIAN CLIFFS RANCH

Cattleman’s is not just a restaurant – it is a Destination!

Cattleman’s Steakhouse is located at Indian Cliffs Ranch, an authentic, working ranch. Indian Cliffs has served as the location for many Hollywood movies, including The Border, Lone Wolf McQuade, Courage Under Fire, Glory Road, and The Jessica Lynch Story.

Apparently, there can be long waits at the restaurant at times, but we didn’t have any trouble getting in. We arrived at opening on a weeknight [5:00pm], gave our name to the front desk, and then spent about half an hour or so wandering the grounds. (To clarify, we didn’t have to wait to be seated – we wanted to see the grounds before it got dark.)

The ranch boasts an extensive petting zoo and an exotic bird collection, and there are free-roaming peacocks everywhere you look. During the day, they offer covered wagon rides that take you around to the areas where movies have been filmed. (The tour is free but the driver does accept tips. It is a first come first serve and leaves out every hour.)

When we finally went back inside to let them know we were ready to be seated, we were taken to our table immediately.

Service was friendly, efficient, and very prompt. I ordered my steak medium rare, and it arrived perfectly cooked. My meal came with a large baked potato, a delicious pineapple coleslaw, rolls, and baked beans. Portions are very generous, so you may want to share. (Or take some home for leftovers.)

While a steakhouse may be fancy by some standards, Cattleman’s has a very casual vibe. Dress up, dress down – either way, you’ll fit right in.

Also, before you leave, be sure to stop by the Movie Tribute Wall which showcases movie posters and other memorabilia from movies that have been filmed there.

Cattleman’s Steakhouse at Indian Cliffs Ranch
3450 S Fabens Carlsbad Road
Fabens, TX 79838

(Approximately 35 minutes from Downtown El Paso)

HOURS
Monday – Friday: 5pm – 10pm
Saturday: 12:30pm – 10pm
Sunday: 12:30pm – 9pm

Phone: (915) 544-3200

And finally, this – because when you have a legit reason to post a picture of Chuck Norris on your blog, you use it…

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Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Discovering El Paso: Concordia Cemetery – El Paso’s “Boot Hill”

February 28 By Renée ♥ 5 Comments

Why would you want to spend your day roaming around an old, arid West Texas cemetery? At El Paso’s Concordia Cemetery, it’s all about the history.

Visiting a cemetery on vacation isn’t for everyone: I get that. It’s not something I do with any regularity myself, but when a town has cemetery like El Paso’s Concordia Cemetery and I have a few hours in my schedule, I often yield to my inner history buff.

Every Grave Holds a Story

From the perspective of one seeking to connect with West Texas history, Concordia Cemetery – known as El Paso’s “Boot Hill” – is the mother-load.

The cemetery’s fifty-two acres are the final resting places for over sixty-thousand Texans, including Buffalo Soldiers, gunslingers, Texas Rangers, and a handful of certified Old West outlaws. Concordia was designated a Texas State Historical Cemetery in 2006, and Winner of True West Magazine’s “Best Historic Cemetery” in 2010, 2013 and 2018.

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Buffalo Soldiers Monument

If you don’t stop at Concordia Cemetery for anything else, stop for this.

Just inside the main gate of Concordia Cemetery, you will find a beautiful monument of bronze plaques, granite memorial markers, and native stone dedicated to Buffalo Soldiers – war veterans from four regiments of African American soldiers who served on the frontier after the end of the Civil War.

The remains of forty-some Buffalo Soldiers are buried at Concordia, and the Buffalo Soldier Memorial commemorates both their military service and their contribution to the history of Texas.

It is believed that the name “Buffalo Soldier” began with the Cheyenne warriors in 1867. The Black Soldiers were ferocious and courageous in battle, even when outnumbered. Out of Respect, the Cheyenne referred to these hard-fighting Black men as “Buffalo Soldiers” – reportedly because their hair resembled that of the revered Bison. Because the Buffalo was a sacred animal to the Indians, the calvarymen accepted the title with great pride. The name became a highly respected American Legacy.

– Inscription on the Buffalo Soldiers Memorial, Concordia Cemetery, El Paso, Texas

I found this memorial inscription heartrending.

By my skill the West was tamed but today few know my name. From the plantations of Southern America we came to stake the plains of Texas.

The muddy waters of the Rio Grande we built forts and staked our claims under the command of Grierson and Hatch, we spilled our blood in pursuit of outlaws and indians to catch the 59th minute of the final hour for the honor of it.

We towered the Souix, Cheyenne, Comanche, and Apache bet their life against the Blacks in blue. And we in dress blues at reveille, boots and saddles and the Yellow Rose of Texas made us all that we could be.

After the battle, we became the eyes and ears of the pioneers from slavery to soldiering that took hundreds of years. They called our homes ghettos, but our trials are lauded by sonneteers – the Blacks in Blue, all volunteers. By many names I am called: Negro, Boy, Colored, and Soldier all.

In defense of freedom, we forsook all to heed the shouts of the wall. A hundred years ago and many fallen comrades we pursued Santana in Blue we were clad for the honor of it. And the lives we lost, we were sad. Darker the blue, and the Buffalo Soldiers, too.

We did what we had to do, for God and country. We are Americans, too.

– Inscription on the Buffalo Soldiers Memorial, Concordia Cemetery, El Paso, Texas

Beyond the Buffalo Soldier Memorial, much of the remaining cemetery landscape stands in bleak contrast. There are no flowing gardens or lush green lawns: just acre after acre after acre of regal concrete memorials, crumbling stone markers, and lonely, weatherbeaten wooden crosses.

While official literature suggests that at least sixty-thousand are interred in Concordia, nobody is really sure how many people lay buried beneath sandstone or wooden markers long decayed by the relentless dust storms, beating hot sun, and droughts of West Texas.

Everyone has a Story

This solitary marker called out to me.

What brought you joy, Antonio? How did you live? When did you die? Clearly, someone loves you. In my mind’s eye, I see a lonely figure hunched over a rough-hewn board late into the night, painstakingly carving his grief into each letter of your name. Your brother? Your father?

Who mourns you today, Antonio?

When you stop to think about the People who lay beneath, you start to understand that every grave – prince or pauper – holds a story.

On a lighter note, if I see your gravestone and your name is Cleopatra, I’m going to take a picture. I’ll probably make up a back-story about you, too. It’s going to happen.

Concordia Cemetery is home to a surprisingly broad assembly of folks. There sections in the cemetery dedicated to a wide variety of racial, national, religious, and fraternal groups, including:

Mexican Revolutionary Figures
Chinese Section
Jewish Section
Catholic Section
Mormon Section
Masonic Section
Masonic Veterans Monument
Jesuit Priests Section
Grand Army Republic Veterans
Oddfellows Section

One particularly poignant section of the cemetery is the “Infant Nursery,” filled with unmarked graves for babies who were victims of the Influenza epidemic of 1917-18.

Famous “Residents” of Concordia Cemetery

Notable burials in Concordia include:

James Biggs, for whom Biggs Army Airfield is named.
Moses Carson, younger brother of Kit Carson.
Benjamin S. Dowell, first mayor of El Paso.
John Selman (1839-1896), gunslinger, killer of John Wesley Hardin.
Ernest St. Leon (d. 1898), Texas ranger.

By far, however, the most famous individual interred at Concordia is notorious Wild West gunslinger John Wesley Hardin. Depending on perspective, Hardin is remembered as either a “a friend to the poor” or a murderous brute.

Known as a cowboy, gunslinger, poker player, and later in life a lawyer, Hardin courted trouble most of his life. He reportedly killed his first man when he was fifteen, and claimed to have killed forty-two men throughout his life, though that figure may have been inflated… like his ego. (And on that note, I’m going with murderous brute.)

To dissuade visitors from taking souvenirs (which apparently was quite a problem for awhile), the grave of John Wesley Hardin now fenced and secured by a lock. It also has a nice Texas State Historical Marker detailing Hardin’s life.

Today, many of those who visit Hardin leave trinkets at his gravesite. When we visited, we saw shot glasses, coins, bottle caps, and cartridge shells scattered inside the iron-barred enclosure.

A walking tour of Concordia Cemetery can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour or more. It all depends on what you want to take away.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

Bring a camera, drinking water, and good walking shoes.
The terrain is desolate, with little to no shade, so it can get very hot, particularly in the summer. Wear sunscreen and/or carry a parasol. (Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.)
Walking sticks are available at the cemetery.
Texas Red Ants are not a myth: they will crawl up your shoes and bite you if you stand in one place too long. Keep moving.
Guided night “Ghost Tours” are available if you’re into that kind of thing.

Concordia Cemetery

3700 E Yandell Dr.

El Paso, Texas

915-842-8200

Map of Concordia Cemetery

THANK YOU for being a faithful reader and supporter of The Good Hearted Woman. ❤ Be sure to Pin this post!

^{Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Discovering El Paso: 3 Must-see Stops on the Historic Mission Trail

January 17 By Renée ♥ 12 Comments

The El Paso Mission Trail traces a nine-mile segment of the oldest road in North America – the historic El Camino Real [The Royal Road ], taking travelers on a journey that passes by three Texas missions and through 400 years of history.

When you think of West Texas history, what first comes to mind?

Perhaps it’s the Spanish Conquistadores, who arrived on the banks of the Rio Grande back in 1598. Or maybe it’s The Alamo (remember?), or the rich, colorful Mexican influence, or the relentless floods in first half the early Nineteenth Century that changed the course of the Rio Grande.

Or maybe everything you know about West Texas happened back in 1957 at Rosa’s Cantina. (Let’s save that one for another post though, shall we?)

Or maybe it’s El Paso’s historic Mission Trail. Have you heard of it?

The El Paso Mission Trail traces a segment of the oldest (and at one time, the longest) road in North America – the historic El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro [The Royal Road of the Interior]. The short, nine-mile route takes travelers on a journey that passes by three missions and about 400 years of history.

Recently, I had the opportunity to spend about five hours exploring the Mission Trail with my dear friend Dottie, where we got a crash course on the intriguing, tumultuous history of three of Texas’ oldest mission communities.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

Socorro

Socorro Mission

Our first stop on the El Paso Mission Trail was at Socorro Mission, the second oldest mission in the state, and home of the oldest relics in El Paso.

Piro Indians built Socorro’s first permanent adobe church in 1691 in what was then Socorro, Mexico. Originally dedicated as Nuestra Senora de la Limpia Concepcion de los Piros del Socorro [Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception of the Piros of Socorro], the exterior of Socorro Mission represents a thunderbird, while the interior is in the shape of a cross.

By 1766, the Socorro Mission was being referred to as La Purísima Concepción del Socorro. A series of floods between 1829 and 1840 changed the course of the Rio Grande from north of Socorro to south of the townsite. When the river was declared the US-Mexico boundary, Socorro became part of United States.

The original adobe chapel was damaged during the flooding and later rebuilt about half a mile to the west in 1843. The restored chapel retains the original hand -carved cottonwood and cypress vigas [support beams] from the original structure.

The cross-beams in the ceiling of the Socorro Mission are recognized as the oldest original relics in Texas.

Socorro Mission
328 S. Nevarez Rd.
El Paso, TX 79927

Hours: 10am-4pm (M-F); 9am-6pm (Sat); 9am-1pm (Sun)
Phone: (915) 859-7718

San Elizario

San Elizario Presidio Chapel

San Elizario Chapel and Presidio was established in 1789 as Spanish defense against foreign powers and Indian raids. The flood of 1829 destroyed the chapel, and a new one was built with new adobe bricks from the original Presidio walls in the 1840’s. It continues to be used as an active church to this day.

The present chapel decor dates from 1944 when the church was repainted to honor local soldiers who fought in World War 11. Beautiful stained-glass windows depict flowers, patriotic symbols, and religious symbols.

Note the colorful, decorative, pressed-tin ceiling, and that stunning interwoven hardwood floor.

The San Elizario Chapel was simply beautiful. Dottie and I loved that each contributor to the 1944 redecoration is listed on a mural in the back of the chapel. When you visit, be sure to take some time to fully appreciate all the finely painted images and beautiful woodworking created by those talented, faithful hands.

San Elizario Chapel
1556 San Elizario Rd.
San Elizario, TX 79849

Hours: 7am-9:30am (Mon-Fri)
Open for Mass (Sat/Sun)
Phone: (915) 851-2333

San Elizario Historic District

San Elizario’s Historic District is literally a stone’s throw from the chapel. There you will find restaurants, gift shops, six art galleries, 22 art studios,18 Historic sites, the San Elizario Chapel, The Presidio (fort), the Veterans’ Memorial, and the Old El Paso County jail, and a larger-than-life statue of Billy the Kid.

According to legend, famed outlaw Billy the Kid freed the only man to ever escape from the old El Paso County Jail, in late November 1876.

Be sure to stop by the Los Portales Museum & Info Center, adjacent to the San Elizario Chapel. The docent who was working there the day we visited was both passionate and well-informed about the history of the San Elizario, and excited to share her knowledge with us.

The museum, which is housed in an 1850’s Territorial-style building, features exhibits celebrating San Elizario’s rich and colorful history. Among other things, you’ll learn about the real “First Thanksgiving,” the Spanish presidio, the San Elizario Salt War of 1877, and the first county seat of El Paso county.

Los Portales Museum & Info Center
Admission is free
Hours: 10am2pm (T-Sat); Noon-4pm (Sun); Closed (M)

San Elizario Walking Tour

Ysleta

Ysleta Mission

Ysleta Mission – the oldest mission in Texas – was our final stop on the El Paso Mission Trail. Originally established in 1613 in what is now New Mexico, Ysleta Mission [officially, Corpus Christi de la Ysleta del Sur] was relocated to El Paso in 1680. That was just the beginning of its turbulent history.

After rampaging floodwaters destroyed the El Paso chapel in 1742, and again in 1829, the adobe-walled building was move to its present location 1851. It was rebuilt once again in 1907, after a fire destroyed most of the structure.

The current mission was built by the Tigua Indian community, and now resides in what is recognized as the oldest community in Texas. The Tiguas, who achieved official reservation status in 1968, changed the name of their church to Mission San Antonio de los Tiguas, in 1980 in recognition of their patron saint, St. Anthony.

Today Ysleta Mission is considered the second oldest continually active parish in the United States.

Ysleta Mission
131 S. Zaragosa Rd.
El Paso, TX 79907

Hours: 7am-4pm (M-Sat); Closed (Sun)
Phone: (915) 859-9848

Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center

Practically around the corner from Ysleta Mission, you will find the Tigua Indian Cultural Center. The Tigua Indians are the oldest permanent settlers in Texas. In 1968, the State of Texas and the Federal Government recognized the tribe as a sovereign nation.

The cultural center aims to celebrate the rich culture of the local Tigua Indians through history, art, and dance in a variety of exhibits and events.

Dottie and I visited the during the week, so there wasn’t much going on beyond the static exhibits; however, we learned that on weekends, the Cultural Center stages social dance demonstrations in the courtyard; and on Saturdays, visitors can watch bread baking and taste fresh samples.

Tigua Indian Cultural Center
305 Yaya Lane
El Paso, Texas 79907

Hours: Wednesday – Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Closed: Monday and Tuesday

Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center, El Paso, Texas | The Good Hearted Woman

This bronze statue depicts a Tigua woman named Nestora Granillo Piarote. It stands in front of the Tigua Indian Cultural Center.

Good Eats on the Mission Trail

Somewhere between San Elizario and Ysleta, Dottie and I found ourselves feeling hungry and wishing we had a little something. The brunch spot in San Elizario at which we had planned to eat had been unexpectedly closed, so we Yelped our way to this little family owned hole-in-the-wall in Socorro.

We arrived at Quesadillas Estilo Villa Ahumada just before noon, and were two of only a few in the dining area. The restaurant itself is nothing fancy, but it is clean, comfortable, and affordable. Oh, and the food is awesome, too.

Dottie and I sat down in a booth and looked through the laminated menu for a few minutes. After much discussion, I decided on the Gorditas de la Maiz. We ordered, and then settle into our booth to talk.

Mission Trail Good Eats, El Paso, Texas | The Good Hearted Woman

Gorditas de la Maiz

Our food arrived in less than 10 minutes – just in time for us to look up from our conversation to see the long line at the order counter that had formed since we first arrived.

Tables filled quickly with faded coveralls and worn Wranglers, dusty t-shirts, and heavy work boots: confirmation that we’d stumbled into a local working-class hot spot. We could expect reasonable prices, hearty portions, and most importantly, dependably good food.

That is exactly what we got, too. My gorditas were crisp on the outside and tender inside, and not a bit greasy. Both Dottie and I commented on the the refried beans, which were exceptionally good. (Do you know tasty refried beans have to be for someone to take note of them? Yes: they were that good.) Our meals were fresh, hearty, and delicious; and the portions were so generous that I ended up taking half my meal home to eat later at the hotel.

Quesadillas Estilo Villa Ahumada – 2
131 Horizon Blvd, Ste 5
Socorro, Texas 79927

Phone: (915) 790-0456

Final Thoughts

While El Paso may not be the top destination on your Travel Bucket List, if you get the chance to visit, take it! And if you go, the El Paso Mission Trail should definitely be on your itinerary.

Additional Information: El Paso Mission Trail

Notably, there is a fourth mission on the Mission Trail – Our Lady of Guadalupe Mission – located just across the US-Mexico border in Juarez, Mexico. Unfortunately, Dottie and I had neither the time nor the passports needed to make that visit on our trip; however, if you find yourself in EL Paso with both on hand, it might be worth a trip.

Additional Information:

All of the missions are open to the public, with exception of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which is only open for special occasions.

El Paso Convention & Visitors Bureau
One Civic Center Plaza
El Paso, Texas 79901

Phone: (915) 534-0600
Toll-free: (800) 351-6024
FAX (9150 534-0686

Mission Valley Visitors Information Center
9065 Alameda Avenue
El Paso Texas 79907

Hours: 9am – 4pm (Mon-Fri); 9am – 3pm (Sat/Sun)
Phone: (915) 851-9997

El Paso abounds with FREE fun! Explore the historic Plaza Theater, discover El Paso’s past at the Museum of History, take a scenic drive for an amazing view of three states and two countries – and even visit the downtown pool where live alligators once frolicked!

ONE FREE DAY IN EL PASO

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Downtown El Paso

Be sure to see:

SAN JACINTO PLAZA

EL PASO MUSEUM OF HISTORY

FRAY GARCIA de SAN FRANCISCO MONUMENT

PLAZA THEATER

{Officially, The Plaza Theatre Performing Arts Center}’

Additional Information

EL PASO COUNTY COURTHOUSE

Justice in the life and conduct of the State is possible only as it first resides in the hearts and souls of the citizens.

CRUISE EL PASO’S SCENIC DRIVE & OVERLOOK

“Not many cities have a mountain range right in the middle of their city, and still fewer have a spectacular drive around the rim of their mountains. El Paso has both.”

Visit El Paso – More Info

EL PASO GOOD EATS

Must Try: SALT + HONEY BAKERY CAFE

Sentimental Favorite: ROSA’S CANTINA

Texas Institution: CATTLEMAN’S STEAKHOUSE AT INDIAN CLIFFS RANCH

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Why would you want to spend your day roaming around an old, arid West Texas cemetery? At El Paso’s Concordia Cemetery, it’s all about the history.

Every Grave Holds a Story

Buffalo Soldiers Monument

Everyone has a Story

Famous “Residents” of Concordia Cemetery

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The El Paso Mission Trail traces a nine-mile segment of the oldest road in North America – the historic El Camino Real [The Royal Road ], taking travelers on a journey that passes by three Texas missions and through 400 years of history.

Socorro

San Elizario

Ysleta

Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center

Good Eats on the Mission Trail

Final Thoughts

Additional Information: El Paso Mission Trail

Additional Information:

Thank you so much for being a faithful reader and supporter of The Good Hearted Woman. ❤ Be sure to Pin this post!

Justice in the life and conduct of the State is possible only
as it first resides in the hearts and souls of the citizens.

“Not many cities have a mountain range right in the middle of their city,
and still fewer have a spectacular drive around the rim of their mountains.
El Paso has both.”