Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon}

Take a drive on The Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

Troon Vineyard: Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon Travel} | The Good Hearted Woman

Extending for 50 miles, from the California border to Grants Pass along the Applegate River, the fertile Applegate Valley is home to “fragrant lavender fields, meticulous small family farms growing organic produce, roaming herds of grass-fed cattle, and numerous vineyards and wineries.” [Applegate Valley Wine Trail] So whether you are on a quest for the perfect bottle of Oregon wine or just want to take a beautiful drive through Southern Oregon back-country, you’ll find what you’re looking for on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail.

At this time, the Applegate Valley Oregon Vintners Association includes eighteen unique wineries that produce a diverse array of wines. Today, we’re sharing some highlights from four of those wineries – a perfect itinerary for a day of sightseeing and wine-tasting!

Wooldridge Creek Winery, Creamery & Charcuterie
Troon Vineyard
Schmidt Family Vineyards
Red Lily Vineyards

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

Specialties: Small batch estate wines, sustainability and stewardship, congenial conversation, artisan cheeses, and charcuterie.

First established as a “hobby” vineyard back in the ’70’s, Wooldridge Creek has evolved over the decades into a thriving vineyard, winery, creamery and charcuterie business. Owners Ted, Mary, Greg, and Kara adhere to seven-generation principles, a philosophy that is clearly reflected in their dedication to both community and stewardship of the land.

At Wooldridge Creek, their commitment to sustainability is at the heart of everything they do. They take their role as stewards of the land seriously, and have maintained certifications for the Salmon Safe and LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) programs as well as Pacific Power’s Blue Sky Renewable Energy Program for over a decade. They also participate in their local watershed protection association.

On a personal note, this was one of the friendliest, most welcoming tasting rooms we’ve visited – I could have hung out there all day! (I went back twice in one month, if that says anything.) The grounds are beautiful, with broad, sweeping views of the valley; and the entire place has a much less “fussy” vibe than many tasting rooms do… in other words, it very much appealed to my inner hippie.

In a move very much in keeping with their role as “stewards of the land,” Wooldridge Creek opened their CrushPad Creamery in 2015, making it Oregon’s first joint creamery and winery. The creamery is located on the winery’s crush pad and offers visitors a chance to view the entire cheese making process. They currently source cow and goat milk from two local organic dairies, and make many styles of cheese, from fresh and soft to aged, hard cheeses.

In 2017, Wooldridge made another addition: charcuterie – fermenting local vegetables and curing a selection of meats – to their repertoire. They offer three platters to complement their wine flights: a cheese platter, a charcuterie platter, or a combination of the two.

Wooldridge Creek has 56 acres planted in twelve varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo.

When you visit, be sure to say hello to the winery cat!

Wooldridge Creek Winery
818 Slagle Cr. Rd
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.6364
admin@wcwinery.com

Tasting Room Hours: 11-5 Daily
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon} #traveloregon #travelsouthernoregon Click To Tweet

TROON VINEYARD

Specialties: Zinfandels, unique blends, and “Good Times & Fine Wines”

In 1972, Dick Troon planted one of the first vineyards in the Applegate Valley. Since that time, the Troon estate has grown to 100 acres with over 40 acres of grapes planted. Known for their signature Zinfandels and unique blends, they are also pioneering varietals such as Vermentino and Tannat. (Their Druid Fluids blend is especially popular.)

The exceptionally well-kept grounds give visitors plenty of options for relaxing, including bocce ball courts, picnic tables, and a giant chess game. Guests can play while they enjoy a plate of cheeses and a glass of wine… or they can just sit back and take in the view.

It has always been my assertion that everything tastes better when served with a smile, and Troon wines definitely support this claim. In the last year, Mr B and I have visited both Troon tasting rooms a couple of times, and found their staff to be enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and exceptionally friendly. (BIG kudos to the team in Carlton – they are amazing!)

Troon Vineyard
1475 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, Oregon 97527
541.846.9900
tastingroom@troonvineyard.com

Troon Carlton Wine Bar
250 N. Kutch Street
Carlton, OR 97111
503.852.3084
carlton@troonvineyard.com

Tasting Room Hours: Open Daily 11 am – 5 pm, June-Aug 11 am – 6 pm
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Big reds, country charm, wood-fired pizza, beautiful gardens, and Northwest ambience

Wine and wine making have always been a passion for Cal Schmidt, and in 2000 with the purchase of the old Bennett Ranch on the fertile Kubli Bench, he and his wife Judy realized his lifelong dream of owning a vineyard.

What struck me most about Schmidt Family Vineyards was the care and attention that have been put creating a “complete experience.” In addition to the vineyards themselves, there is a large, picturesque pond, several acres of herb and flower gardens, gazebos, and numerous walking paths for visitors to use as they unwind and enjoy in a beautiful, relaxing setting.

The Craftman-style tasting room at Schmidt Family Vineyards is absolutely stunning.

In addition to their estate wines, Schmidt Family Vineyards offers a quality menu to enhance your wine tasting experience as well, with all food made to order using farm fresh ingredients. We found the wood-fired pizzas to be quite tasty! (Their website also shares recipes, complete with tasting notes!)

Schmidt Family Vineyards

330 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541-846-9985

schmidt@sfvineyards.com

Tasting Room Hours: 7 days a week from 12-5pm. Open on Fridays from 12-8pm.
Food is served 12-4:30 pm, Thurs-Monday
Tasting Fee: $10 for the Vintner Flight & $12 for the Garden Flight (served in test tubes for easily touring the gardens).
The Vintner’s Flight is complimentary to Wine Club Members. The Garden Flight is 50% off for Wine Club Members.

RED LILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Spanish Centric Wines, scenic fall color, and cozy conversation.

Red Lily Vineyards is a small, family-owned winery committed to a single goal — producing the finest Spanish-inspired wines possible. Owners Les and Rachael Martin fell in love with Spanish wines years ago, and have “made it their life’s work to cultivate the highest quality wines possible.”

Like all many of the vineyards in the Applegate Valley, you can visit Red Lily Vineyards anytime, but I highly recommend that you put them on your fall wine-tour itinerary when the autumn chill sets the grounds ablaze with vibrant color.

Red Lily’s tasting room is a beautiful example of architectural reclamation. With views of both the valley and the Applegate River, this former feeder barn turned tasting room offers guests both inside and outside seating, an outdoor fireplace, and outdoor heaters to stay warm and cozy. When we visited, we found the prices to be reasonable and the tasting room staff extremely helpful.

Wine flights are served in a test-tube rack, which initially seemed a bit strange, but as it turned out, made a very practical presentation.

Varietals produced by Red Lily Vineyards include Albarino, Grenache, Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional.

Red Lily Vineyards

Les and Rachael Martin, Owners
11777 Hwy. 238
Jacksonville OR 97530

Phone: (541) 846-6800
Fax: (541) 846-0601
info@redlilyvineyards.com

Winter Hours (Nov-Apr) Thursday – Sunday
11:00 am – 5:00 pm

Summer Hours (May-Oct) Daily
11:00 am -5:00 pm

Tasting Fee: $5
(Refunded With Purchase of 2 Bottles of Wine)

^{Disclosure: My visit to Wooldridge Creek, Schmidt, and Troon Wineries, including tastings, were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Name: Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle
Prep time: 30 min
Cook time: 60 min
Total time: 90 min
Yield: 8
Ingredients: 2 cups flour; 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder; ¼ teaspoon salt; ½ cup butter (softened); ¾ cup sugar; 1 egg; ½ cup milk; 2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries; ½ cup flour; ½ cup sugar; ¼ cup butter

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

McCully House, Jacksonville, Oregon

Corner Sign - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

One Day in Old San Juan {Puerto Rico}

April 20 By Renée ♥ 14 Comments

Old San Juan is replete with amazing history, old world charm, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last month, Mr B and I celebrated our anniversary with a cruise in the eastern Caribbean (she says, casually flipping her hair back, like she takes a cruise every other week). Unlike Mr B, who took a few Caribbean cruises on his own courtesy of the US Navy, I had never even been in the Atlantic Ocean before, much less the Caribbean, so it was a whole new world for me.

Panarama: San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Our week-long cruise took us to ports in Grand Turk, St Thomas, Bahamas, and Puerto Rico, where we had a whole day to wander Old San Juan at our leisure. Coincidentally, our anniversary fell on the day our ship ported in San Juan, and it was a perfect place to celebrate.

Before we go on; a few thoughts on Old San Juan, post-Maria

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I was a little concerned before we departed on our trip about what we might find in Puerto Rico, which is still trying to recover after Hurricane Maria swept through and ravaged the island last fall. The reality is, while clean-up efforts have made great progress, there is plenty of structural damage still in evidence, and things are still not up and running as they should be. For example, just this week, they experienced an island-wide blackout as construction companies worked through technical issues to restore electrical services to residents.

However, much of the island’s economy relies on tourism, and it’s obvious that a great deal of effort and man-hours have gone into rehabilitating the Old San Juan area, which is within easy walking distance of the cruise ship ports. So while it isn’t yet quite as bright and shiny as it once was, Old San Juan is still replete with amazing history – the kind you can literally walk up a touch! – plus charming, colorful architecture, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour

When we arrived in San Juan, Mr B and I chose to forego all of the shore excursions offered by the cruise, and instead stepped out on our own to explore what Old San Juan had to offer. If you decide to go on a walking tour as we did, all you really need is a pair of comfortable walking shoes, a little cash (for street vendors), some serious sun protection, and your phone or camera.

European history on the island began in 1493, when Christopher Columbus landed there and named the island “San Juan Bautista,” in honor of John the Baptist. Subsequently, in 1508, the Spanish government appointed Juan Ponce de León as the first governor of the island. He founded the original settlement in Caparra (now known as Pueblo Viejo), and city soon became Spain’s most important military outpost in the Caribbean. A few years later, the original settlement was relocated to a nearby coastal islet and christened Puerto Rico [Rich Port]. At that point, some confusion arose and somehow there was a name switch; from that time forward, the island has been known as Puerto Rico, and the town, San Juan.

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Monumento al Inmigrante (the Immigrant) stands just west of the cruise port near San Juan Bay.

The first stop on our walking tour was at the Puerto Rico Tourism Company near the end of Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, where we picked up a map of Old San Juan, as well as some very helpful information about getting around the city during the hurricane restoration efforts. (There are also many maps of Old San Juan online: we found this map from Mappery to be particularly helpful.) You can also find large display maps of Old San Juan sprinkled all around the city.

Paseo de La Princesa Promenade

We started our walking tour with a stroll down Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, which was originally built in 1853. When I first heard the name of this relaxing, tree-lined boulevard, I thought to myself, “Oh, how nice… ‘Walkway of the Princess.'” Then I learned that the name has far darker origins.

Paseo de la Princesa is, in fact, named for an infamous prison called La Princesa that was once housed in and beneath what is now the Puerto Rico Tourism Company. During business hours, you can take a free tour of the cells, and even see where prisoners were tortured and shot. However, when the docent at the Tourism Company reception desk mentioned that people often experience “weird things” when they walk through the old prison, we (mostly me) decided to skip it. (Not because I expected to see/hear/feel anything weird, of course. Because that never happens. Ever.)

The walk along the promenade takes you by a rather interesting sculpture garden, home to a wide variety of religious and secular sculptures.

Raices Fountain (aka “Roots Fountain”)

The Raíces Fountain [aka “Roots Fountain”] at the end of Paseo de la Pricesa, is considered to be one of the most romantic spots in Old San Juan. I wish we could have gotten closer, because some of pictures I’ve seen of the fountain up close are stunning; unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the street was blocked off while hurricane restoration efforts were being completed on the waterfront. (I took this image while leaning over the barricade. 📷)

The fountain, completed in 1992, was designed by architect Miguel Carlo to commemorate and celebrate the New World’s 500th anniversary. The collection of bronzes honors Puerto Rico’s mixed African, Spanish and Taino/Amerindian heritage.

Cathedral of San Juan Bautista

Built on the site where the body of Ponce de Leon is entombed, the the Cathedral de San Juan Bautista was the first cathedral church in the Americas, and is an authentic example of classic medieval architecture. The original cathedral was constructed from wood in 1521, but was destroyed by a hurricane and rebuilt in 1540, with improvements and renovations taking place over the centuries, the last time being in 1917.

Parks, Plazas, Monuments & Fountains

It seems that everywhere you go in Old San Juan, there’s another park, plaza, monument, or fountain. This little park across the street from Cathedral of San Juan Bautista is populated with some of the most peculiarly whimsical statues in the city.

Old San Juan is only three square miles, with four-hundred Spanish 16th and 17th century colonial-style buildings lining its narrow streets.

Inside the Old City Wall

San Juan is known as La Ciudad Amurallada (the walled city), and is one of the largest natural harbors in the Caribbean. Originally built to protect the city from foreign invaders and ransacking pirates, the fortress-like walls around Old San Juan are up to forty-two feet tall and up to forty-five feet thick at the base. You can see how the wall runs the entire length of the waterfront in the image below.

The views from atop the wall are nearly endless.

If you walk along the topmost part of the wall along Paseo Del Morro, you will find a small, shady plaza that faces the water. There you can see La Rogativa, a sculpture created by Lindsay Daen to mark San Juan’s 450th anniversary. Paying tribute to a legend borne during a siege in 1797, it portrays a bishop and three women carrying torches in a religious procession. It seems, according to the legend, that the light from the torches caused the British invaders to think they were seeing Spanish reinforcements coming, so they turned and fled.

La Puerta de San Juan

La Puerta de San Juan [The San Juan Gate] is the main gate in Old San Juan’s wall. (You can’t miss it – it’s bright red!) The last remaining of Old San Juan’s six original gates, it was for centuries locked each day at sundown to ward off enemy attacks. An inscription (in Latin) above the door reads: “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord.” Today, if you walk through it from inside the city, you’ll be rewarded with a lovely view of the San Juan Bay on the other side.

La Puerta de San Juan ~ “The San Juan Gate”

Castillo San Cristóbal

Castillo San Cristóbal took nearly 140 years to complete and is the largest fortification built by Spain in the New World. The uphill walk there is totally worth the effort, as it offers an amazing, panoramic views of the city and coastline.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro: San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Castilla San Cristóbal, as seen from our cruise ship.

Hiking up to Castillo de Cristóbal from Old San Juan

The symmetry of this shot makes me happy.

Cats of San Juan

One thing you are sure to see in Old San Juan is cats. Everywhere. Hundreds of feral cats live in the city and roam the streets and the waterfront.

A grass-roots group, Save a Gato (cat), supports the well-being of San Juan’s feral cats. They provide them with food and water, and also trap, neuter, vaccinate, and release them.

A cat needs a name, so I called her Audrey. In a sea of sullied strays, she was poised, regal, and stunning.

As we wandered the side streets of Old San Juan, we saw pans of cat food and lean, lazy cats lying everywhere.

Barrachina: Birthplace of the Piña Coloda

We concluded our day in Old San Juan with a celebratory dinner at Barrachina, the birthplace of the piña colada.

I can’t conclusively verify that Barrachina is really “the first” place on earth where someone was inspired to blend ice, coconut, pineapple, and rum into a heavenly, refreshing beverage, but they have a plaque on the front of the restaurant that says it, so it must be true. Regardless, I can unequivocally testify (from intense personal research) that they serve up a pretty delicious piña colada. 😉

Mr B and I usually try to avoid deep-fried anything, but these Grouper fritters (lightly breaded with coconut) just called out to me from the menu, and once they arrived at our table, we were both extremely happy that we ordered them. Served with a side of tarter sauce and fresh lime, they were sweet, tender, and perfectly fried.

Mofongo was easily the most unique (to us) thing we ate on our trip. A Puerto Rican specialty, mofongo is made with mashed fried green plantain, seasoned with garlic and spices, and formed into a dome or bowl. At Barrachina, it is served with your choice of toppings, which include steak, chicken, vegetables, seafood, or shrimp.

Mr B and I both had the Shrimp Mofongo, which was far more filling than we had anticipated. (I’m sure the two piña coladas we had while we waited for our meal had nothing at all to do with that!) In retrospect, although it was very tasty, a single mofongo plate would have been more than enough. Needless to say, we took a to-go bag home for late night snacking on the ship. Win-win!

All Aboard! 🚢

If you are visiting Old San Juan via cruise ship, be sure to take in the views while you are waiting to for the ship to embark. I captured this stunning sunset while sitting on our balcony.

Although Mr B and I didn’t feel the need to use it when we were there, it’s good to know that Old San Juan provides a free trolley service all around the city. The trolley runs every day Monday through Friday from 7am until 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am until 7pm every 15 minutes. You can also rent a bicycle and helmet near the cruise port for the day for a very reasonable price.

Click here for more information about Old San Juan.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa: Your Perfect Oregon Coast Getaway

April 13 By Renée ♥ 14 Comments

Head Out. Stay In. Whatever you choose, you’ll discover your perfect Oregon coastal getaway at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City.

Sunset at Haystack Rock, Pacific City, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Pacific City sunsets can be spectacular. {Image taken 2.25.2017}

When I was a little girl, I lived on the Oregon coast for five glorious summers. One of my most enduring memories from that time is of standing on the edge of the world, looking out into the great vastness of the Pacific Ocean and wondering if somewhere out there, there was a little girl on the other side of the water looking out and wondering about me.

Last month, Mr B and I were invited to stay at the newly opened Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City, Oregon, and as I sat outside on our room’s lovely little private balcony enjoying a few moments of splendid solitude, I found myself once again looking out into that great unknown, and listening to the wind race and the waves crash, and remembering those two little girls an ocean and a lifetime away.

Many thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. This post may contain affiliate links.

Headlands Coastal Lodge: Unpretentious Luxury & Oregon Hospitality

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa is a stunningly beautiful destination, expressly designed as a place to relax, recharge, restore, and rediscover. From the moment you walk through the massive glass and wood front doors, you will find yourself surrounded by warm hospitality, rich wood finishings, and unpretentious luxury.

Located adjacent to Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area in Pacific City, Headlands Coastal Lodge has been twenty years in the making. Owners Mary Jones and Jeff Shons spent those years designing and redesigning the lodge, with the goal of creating a luxury destination that takes full advantage of the Oregon Coast’s rugged natural beauty, and highlights the incredible views of Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock.

You can find the personal influences of Mary Jones and Jeff Schons throughout the lodge. For example, the “Haystack Rock Wall“ showcases a rotating collection of the work by local artists – all featuring the iconic rock. Local art lines the halls and adorns room walls as well.

Mary, who teaches cooking classes to lodge visitors, keeps a kitchen garden just off this gorgeous, hardwood hall.

“Stay In”

Each and every one of the 33 oceanfront rooms at Headlands comes with a balcony and an unobstructed view of Haystack Rock (the Pacific City one, not the Cannon Beach one). {Editorial: As a lifetime Oregonian, I have never understood why a state with nearly thirty names for rain cannot come up with two unique names for two geographically distinct monolithic rocks adjacent to the beach. C’mon, people!}

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa | The Good Hearted Woman

The view from our balcony. [Room 111]

Uniquely, Pacific City is one of the few places in Oregon where you can drive right out onto the beach. Automobile beach access is literally right next door to Headlands, making it particularly appealing for those who may have mobility challenges. Mr B and I are seriously considering bringing my 92-year old mom for a stay so that she can enjoy the beach she loves so much one more time.

Mattress firmness is always a personal issue. That being said, Mr B and I sleep on a lot of hotel mattresses, so I can say with some authority that the mattresses at Headlands are some of the most comfortable we’ve ever slept on.

Mr B and I were absolutely fascinated with the glass-walled shower in our room. The cast iron soaking tub is comfortably sloped and long enough to stretch out in, and generously accommodating for both solo or companion bathing. One of us (not naming names or anything) took both a shower and a bath in one night!

Let’s take a closer look at this shower set-up, shall we? I mean, this is so cool! You can stand in the shower and look out onto the beach – while you shower!!

Our room came with a host of luxury amenities. Mr B and I were both intrigued with the high-tech “Do Not Disturb/Make Up This Room” door card system. To alert resort staff that you are away and your room is ready to be made up, guests need only press “Heading Out” on a switch just inside their room’s entry door to light up a small green “go” light on the room number placard in the hall outside. Conversely, pressing “Staying In” lights up a red “stop” light, letting staff know that you’d like some privacy.

Additional room amenities include a gas fireplace, Bonavita brewing system and freshly ground coffee, Smith tea service and tea kettle, bluetooth lantern speaker, in-room safe, iPad for requesting services, and complimentary WiFi. Well-placed bike hooks and surfboard racks can also be found in every room. In fact, I couldn’t think of a single thing they forgot to include, but if I had, I’m pretty sure someone would have gotten it for us!

As if there weren’t already enough to love about this place, the entire lodge, as well as many of the guest rooms, are dog-friendly!

Cackling Geese ~ Spirit of Headlands

Everywhere you turn at Headlands, you will see the subtle influence of the cackling geese: soaring gracefully across the wrought-iron front door pulls, the front entry desk, the room placards and restaurant menus; even the art on the guest room walls. The cackling geese not only provide a striking logo image, but offer a metaphor for the spirit that Headlands espouses: rugged, beautiful, and ready for adventure. We found the background on these exceptional birds quite interesting.

Pacific City is the only wintering spot in the world of the Semidi Island Aleutian Cackling Geese. Each year, the geese fly south more than 2,000 miles from their small Alaskan nesting islands to Oregon’s North Coast. Every evening during their annual Pacific City stay, they leave the grassy pastures in the Nestucca Valley and soar across a mile of ocean to roost on Haystack Rock—the same towering monolith that Headlands guests can see from their rooms and cottage.

~ Headlands Coastal Lodge

Headlands offers guests surprises around every corner. The stunning “live metal” in the image above can be found in the main lobby’s huge, gender-neutral restroom. {The picture simply doesn’t do it justice.}

Each of the lodge’s three floors also has a “honor pantry,” well-stocked with top-shelf snacks and local favorites, like as Tillamook Ice Cream pints and One Fork Farm Caramels. (Oh. My. Goodness. Seriously, if you haven’t tried One Fork Farm Caramels yet, do so immediately! They are amazing! ➢ Not a sponsored plug – just way too good to not share.)

“Head Out”

Most luxury hotels offer complementary concierge service, but Headlands, embracing the adventurous Pacific Northwest spirit, takes the idea to the next level. “Adventure Coaches” help guests plan specialized outdoor adventures – everything from kayaking, clamming, and cooking classes to hiking, biking, and beach bonfires. (Don’t worry if you didn’t bring a bike: you can get a loaner in the lobby.) They’ll even pack you a lunch from the hotel restaurant!

Tidepools Spa & Wellness Center

Whether you’re in the mood for a good workout, a relaxing soak, or just some quality “me-time,” Headlands in-house spa and wellness center can accommodate your needs.

Tidepools offers both indoor and outdoor exercise options, including a well-stoked weight room, Pilates classes, beach yoga, and surf lessons. (Yes folks, we really do surf here in Oregon.)

If you’re in the mood to relax, you can get a massage or facial, or take a soak in the outdoor hot tub and enjoy the striking ocean view.

Meridian

Meridian at Headlands offers guests a Pacific Northwest-focused menu in a casually elegant setting. Ingredients are locally sourced from the ocean, local farmers, and Mary’s Herb Garden. (I’ll be posting more about Meridian, as well as a recipe from Executive Chef Andrew Garrison, in upcoming posts.) Briefly, the meals we had there were fresh, well-composed, and beautifully presented.

Finally, as far as Oregon coastal accommodations go, Headlands has a decidedly high-end price-tag, but Mr B and I both agree that it is well worth it. Headlands Coastal Lodge would be a perfect destination for a special occasion or well-earned getaway… or when you just need to stare out into the ocean for hours on a windy winter evening and wonder who’s on the other side of the world.

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa

33000 Cape Kiwanda Drive
Pacific City, OR 97135
(503) 483-3000

Disclosure: Thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon}

March 15 By Renée ♥ 9 Comments

Visitors to Orenco Woods Nature Park can choose from wide variety of activities, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, picnicking, and enjoying the native wildlife. (Oh, and hangin’ out with giant Twig People. Don’t about forget them.)

Last weekend was absolutely Bea-u-tiful here in the Pacific Northwest, so Mr B and I decided to go and explore Orenco Woods Nature Park, a new westside neighborhood park that has been getting a lot of local press attention lately. Here’s just one reason for all the buzz…

But I’ll get back to Hungry Twig Guy later. First, let me take you on a tour around the park.

Orenco Woods Nature Park is a large neighborhood park located in Hillsboro, Oregon, about 30 minutes west of Portland. The 42-acre park is situated on the site of a former nine-hole golf course, between Orchard Park upstream and Noble Woods Park downstream. Rock Creek flows through the park, and Rock Creek Trail snakes through it.

There is a big, open playground near the entrance to the park, with restrooms and drinking fountains for visitors, as well as a large covered picnic area.

This concrete stream channel was one of my favorite features of the playground – it runs downhill alongside one long side of the playground, with strategically placed water pumps set along the “stream bed” that allow kids to feed into the stream with running water during warm weather months, with the water pouring back into Rock Creek after it runs its course. The playground also features sand areas, logs, a large net climber and swings.

The “real” Orenco Apple is a high-quality dessert apple that was introduce to the world c.1840 by the Oregon Nursery Company. The apple is prized for its tender, crisp and juicy flesh, and sweet, piquant flavor.

Rock Creek Trail - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

“The Orenco Apple”

Malcolm McDonald House {Est. 1910}

The McDonald House, which sets inside Orenco Woods Nature Park near the park entrance, was built by Oregon Nursery Company Co-founder Malcolm McDonald. Mr. McDonald erected the sprawling Craftsman-style home in 1912, and his business then sold smaller lots to its employees, who built their own houses nearby.

I had some brief contact with the McDonald house back in the early 2000’s when one of my Girl Scout Troops (I had four) did some volunteer work there. At that time, the house was being used as a shelter and home for young, single mothers. The shelter closed in 2012 when the organization that ran it moved to another location.

Despite the fences, I was glad to see that Hillsboro is taking steps to restore it to its former glory. Planners have proposed exhibiting Orenco’s history in the house and renting it out for private events such as weddings.

In 2015, the McDonald House was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Walking the Rock Creek Nature Trail

A segment of the paved, ADA-accessible Rock Creek Trail runs through the park, connecting to Orchard Park and to the Rock Creek Trailhead at Rock Creek Boulevard just north of Highway 26. You can also walk the much shorter loop around the Orenco Woods Nature Park using the park’s graveled Habitat Trail. Bicycles and on-leash dogs are allowed on the paved trails, but not on the habitat trails [wood chip and gravel].

Arched Bridge - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

This is one of my favorite pictures of the day. The little two boys on the bridge were doing their darnest to beat their Dad racing across the bridge, and all three were having so much fun!

At certain times of day, the bridge cast some pretty interesting shadows.

Orenco Woods Nature Park offers visitors a variety of experiences: rolling hills, open meadows, riparian habitat, and forested areas that are home to a variety of birds and wildlife.

As we walked through the park, Mr B reminisced about the times he had golfed there in years past. “That course was always so wet. I remember that there was a par-three hole where you teed off from a box uphill to a mounded green below. When it was rainy, the green would be entirely surrounded by water.” No wonder the golf course didn’t last too long!

Now that we’ve made it around the park, let’s circle back to that giant face made out of twigs…

Woven Willow and Red Twig Dogwood Branch Sculptures

This guy is just one of seven 18-foot tall faces that guard a line of old growth Doug firs along the stretch of main path that runs from the park entrance to the large arched bridge.

Created by artist Patrick Dougherty (along with a battalion of volunteers), the interactive art installation is constructed entirely from locally obtained twigs and branches.

The piece was initially inspired by masks and totems of Northwest indigenous peoples; however, inspirations changed along the way. Says Dougherty, “they morphed during the building process into caricatures of human surprise. The arrangement of elements corrals the trees and creates among them a room of ancient tree trunks, thick and luxurious. Perhaps this invitation to rub shoulders with the craggy bark of such oldsters is the best part of the work. At the last minute, a hint of the heads of Easter Island statuary emerged as we fitted each head with a suitable hat.”

More than 150 volunteers contributed over 1000 hours to create this monumental, interactive sculpture. [Click here to watch the Stickwork Project Time Lapse Video on YouTube.]

In addition to hiking the Rock Creek Trail and hanging out with giant Twig People, visitors can choose from wide variety of activities at the park, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, and picnicking. Or kick back and enjoy the native wildlife: great blue heron, beavers, red-tail hawks, black-tailed deer, and more all make their homes along Rock Creek and in the adjacent wetlands.

Visitor Information

Orenco Woods Nature Park

7100 NE Birch Street

Hillsboro, Oregon

Orenco Woods Field Guide [Oregon Metro]

Orenco Woods Nature Park is open from sunrise to sunset seven days a week.
The park has restrooms and a large picnic area, as well as a number of smaller, more informal gathering spots.
Significant portions of the park are wheelchair accessible, including the Rock Creek Trail.
Pets are allowed on the Rock Creek Trail portions of the park, but must be on-leash at all times and are not allowed anywhere else at the park.
Don’t bring drones, model planes, model boats and other remote-controlled vehicles – they are not allowed. (Neither is hunting, but do I really need to tell you not to hunt in a park filled with dogs and people?) However, you are welcome to do all the geocaching your little heart desires!

Please leave a comment below! 🏞 What unique parks are in your neighborhood?

What We Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival {Buffalo, Wyoming}

February 28 By Renée ♥ 12 Comments

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

The only real connection to the North American Basque community that I personally have is an impossibly thin thread that runs from me through the amazing woman who taught me to ride horses to the Basque man she was married to for many years.

Rena was a former Miss Rodeo Oregon and beautiful beyond words. I was nine. She taught me to races barrels and jump hay bales and ride faster than the wind. She later married a man from the Nevada Basque community, and once while traveling with my parents to Arizona, we took a side trip to see her. One thing that still stands out to me about our visit – besides seeing Rena and her new baby – was the vast, arid landscape of the Nevada range and the half an hour we had to wait on the dusty dirt road while the largest herd of sheep I have ever seen passed across in front of us.

Ever since that long-ago visit, I’ve had a mild fascination with the unique, mysterious Basque community. So when Mr B and I motored into Buffalo, Wyoming last summer for lunch and saw the “North American Basque Festival” banners hanging across Main Street, I was intrigued and excited to see what was happening.

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basques are an “indigenous ethnic group,” unique unto themselves, and may be the oldest ethnic group in Europe. Neither French nor Spanish, their homeland lies between the base of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, comprised of seven traditional provinces that bridge the border between Spain and France. Likewise, their unique language – which they call Euskara – is like no other language spoken in Europe – or the world.

When I was doing research for this post, I tried to find out how approximately how many people of Basque heritage now live in North America, but reported numbers varied wildly – from less than 100,000 to over a million. What I can tell you is most Basques in North America are descended from 19th century emigrants, and large Basque communities can be found across the western United States and in some Canadian provinces.

Basques began moving to Wyoming in the early 1900s to herd sheep, and the Buffalo continues to celebrate its long history with the Basque community. A small flock of bronze sheep and a bronze herding dog on Main Street remind visitors of Buffalo’s long history with the Basque community. As the plaque that accompanies the bronzes reads:

The heritage of the Basque people runs deep in the history of Johnson County [Wyoming]. Coming from a mountainous, agrarian culture in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, they took to the open range of Wyoming, bringing colorful traditions and a knowledge of raising sheep. They depended on their dogs, often Border Collies as companions and helper to protect and herd the sheep. The Basque farmers remain influential throughout this community to the present day.

Basques in the North America have embraced their new home, even as they continue to honor their unique heritage. One of the ways they do this is through the many gatherings and festivals that are held in small towns across “Basque country.”

The North American Basque Festival, sponsored by the North American Basque Organization [NABO], has been held annually since 1979, with the location rotating each year. (Buffalo, Wyoming will host the festival and convention again again in 2021.) The three-day festival includes traditional food, music, and dancing; and featured artisans and vendors all celebrating the Basque culture.

If you happen to be a knitter, crocheter, or spinner, you will love attending a Basque Festival! There were skeins and skeins of wool roving and beautiful, hand-dyed yarns for purchase everywhere!

The line for barbecued lamb was ridiculous, stretching for well over a block, to the great disappointment to Mr B. (I don’t eat lamb, so no tears here. It did smell delicious though.)

(Hungry for a traditional Basque meal? Try out this recipe for Basque Braised Chicken With Peppers [Chicken Basquaise].)

Everywhere we turned we saw lauburu motifs. The lauburu (or Basque cross) is a symbol of the Basque Country and the unity of the Basque people.

Basque Sheep Wagons

The coolest thing we saw at the Festival was the collection of “Karro kampos,’ or traditional Basque sheep wagons. Basque sheep wagons, which we learned are an invention of the American West, reached their height of popularity in the 1910’s. They continue to be used by some sheep herders, particularly in Idaho, even today.

No two wagons that we saw were exactly the same; however, as we peeked into each one, we noticed certain consistencies. For example, the door was always at the front of the wagon, and the bed was always at the back. Most vintage wagons (like the one below) had a wash-pan hanging on the door, a wood stove to the left of the door (going in), and a stove pipe coming out the top.

I love the detailing on this little cast iron wood stove. This wagon has a stove-pipe popping out the top.

Other wagons had more contemporary interiors, with gas stoves, up-to-date cabinetry, and tiled floors.

This wagon – proudly displayed by the 4th generation Basque family of George Etchemenoy – was a work of art. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship on the wagon, along with the matching child-sized wagon and wooden tractor, was outstanding.

Check out the turquoise inlay on the front of the wooden tractor.

If you have the opportunity to attend a Basque festival, we enthusiastically encourage you to go – you will have a great time and probably learn something in the process! Visit the North American Basque Organization website to learn more.

Take a Romantic Winter Getaway to Hood River, Oregon

February 22 By Renée ♥ 10 Comments

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Every year for Valentine’s Day, Mr B and I take a little romantic getaway. It doesn’t matter if the holiday falls in the middle of the week or on a weekend – we always take at least one day off and head for a quiet destination, usually close to home. This year, as we are wont to do, we headed for the Columbia Gorge.

We left for our getaway after work on a Tuesday afternoon, and drove up to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, arriving well after dark. Stepping into the lobby, we were promptly greeted by an amazingly friendly, enthusiastic hotel employee named Rick, who would act as our concierge, bell-hop, elevator operator, ice-bucket filler, doorman, and hotel historian during our stay.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel – once known as the “Waldorf of the West” – was built by Portland businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson in 1921. The elegant hotel has a rich history (complete with lots of ghost stories!), and at one time hosted such early film icons as Clara Bow, Rudolph Valentino, and Shirley Temple, as well as dignitaries like Presidents Roosevelt and Coolidge.

Our third floor King room was lovely, with a 180° view of the Columbia River, a large bathroom (by 1921 standards), and an little electric fireplace. Having stayed in a standard room at the Columbia Gorge Hotel the distant past, I can tell you with confidence that our King room was far superior to a standard room. Most notably, it was about twice as big: the space allotted for a standard in 1921 is what realtors like to call “charming” and “cozy.” The King room we stayed was about the same size as a contemporary standard mid-range hotel room.

Travel Tip: Weekday rates at the Columbia Gorge Hotel are often literally half that of weekend rates. If you can find the time during the week, it’s quite a deal!

The next morning when room service delivered our breakfast, we discovered that we had ordered twice as much food as we needed! Our breakfast croissants were huge, and each one came with a generous serving of O’Brien potatoes and an adorable little airplane-size bottle of ketchup. Everything arrived fresh, warm, and delicious. No worries about leftovers, either – after we finished eating, we popped our leftovers into the little room fridge to save for a midnight snack and set out to plan our day.

Mama Bear - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Any other Mama Bears out there? 💚 {Sculpture by Ann Fleming; part of Hood River BIG ART Walking Tour}

We had a loose plan to spend the day touring and tasting at a few of the wineries near Hood River, so we started our tour in downtown Hood River, where we stopped in at a cool little espresso bar called Ground to enjoy a warm beverage while charted out our route. Being there on a Wednesday in the middle of winter made our choices very easy – only three of the fifteen or so wineries around the city of Hood River were open for us to visit.

Our first stop was Cathedral Ridge Winery, one of the only vineyards in Hood River with tasting room hours every day of the week year-round. The winery is located high above the Columbia on the west end of Hood River, with sweeping views of Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the south west. We spent the better part of an hour in the Cathedral Ridge tasting room, where we were greeted warmly and treated like old friends. Pours for our tasting were generous, and extra varieties were introduced as we discussed our preferences with our attentive and knowledgeable host.

After we finished our tasting and purchased a few bottles to take home, we wandered outside to enjoy a walk around the grounds, where wooden benches and outdoor tables set up for picnickers dot the property. The middle of February was a little too chilly for a picnic though, so we instead opted for a quick selfie before we got back in the car.

Me & Me B - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Look! We took a selfie!

We next ventured a little farther out into the country, where we found the Phelps Creek tasting room, which like Cathedral Ridge is open daily and year-round. The tasting room is located on the beautiful Hood River Golf Course, the features wines produced from nearby Estate-grown grapes. This small boutique winery focuses on estate grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; annually producing 5,000 cases total of all varietals.

One of the things Mr B and I like best about going out with just a tissue-paper plan is you just never know who or what will happen to surprise you. While we were visiting with the host at Phelps Creek, tasting room associate and sports photographer Brian Robb walked in, sat down at the bar and introduced himself. We were in no hurry, so we spent the next half hour chatting with Brian about some of the events he has shot around the world; in particular his experiences photographing World Skiing Racing Championships and the Olympic Winter Games. We thoroughly enjoyed both the company and the conversation at Phelps Creek.

(I have always to laugh at myself when I meet “action” photographers – I can barely get food to hold still for a good shot. Moving targets are usually way beyond my photography skillset.)

After finishing at Phelps Creek, we made the short drive back into town and grabbed a late lunch at The Trillium Cafe in downtown Hood River before stopping at our last tasting room – Stave & Stone.

Esthetically, Stave & Stone is the poshest of the three tasting rooms we visited, and the newest as well. The space itself is large and open, with lots of warm hues, subdued lighting, and naturally finished woods all lending a cozy feel. Besides the tasting bar, there are plenty of small gathering spots, too – comfy chairs, cozy booths, cafe tables, and a couch or two.

Our tasting room host was upbeat, friendly, and knowledgeable. As she poured our tastings, she enthusiastically shared a little of the history of this five generation winery with us – including the story of “The Old Man” – the last orchard apple tree standing on the family farm. The tree has been immortalized by local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized in an intricate metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

[This Gravenstein tree] symbolizes five generations of Fletchers, a touchstone of the legacy that began with apples and pears. The orchard has been transitioning into a vineyard for awhile now, but we’re keeping this ancient fellow. It is so old, it is nearly hollowed out inside, yet it still manages to produce blossoms and fruit every year. ~ Stave & Stone

Stave & Stone 3 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized the old family Gravenstein tree in a metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

There was still plenty of daylight left when we left Stave & Stone, so we drove back to the hotel and took a stroll around the grounds, first exploring the south side in the front of the hotel.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel maintains seven acres of beautifully manicured gardens. Phelps Creek (for which the aforementioned winery is named) runs through the property, and natural water features dominate the landscape.

Ducks - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

I tried to get the ducks to pose for a picture, but they weren’t interested. 😉

On the river-side of the Columbia Gorge Hotel, you will find Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, where Phelps Creek flows and falls 207 feet into the Columbia. Once known as Lullaby Falls (apparently for the sleep-inducing properties that its soothing water sounds have on hotel guests) Wah Gwin Gwin now takes its name from a Chinook term meaning “rushing waters.”

Most people on a romantic getaway like ours would probably choose to dine on a fancy dinner in the hotel’s posh restaurant, Simon’s Cliffhouse and Valentino Bar. However, Mr B and I have along-standing tradition of homemade Shepherd’s Pie on our Valentine’s getaway, no matter where we are. Sometimes it takes a little creativity to pull it off, but so far, we’ve always managed to make it happen. This year, our room had a nice refrigerator to keep things cold, but no microwave to warm it up. Our buddy Rick-the-Awesome-Hotel-Guy saved the day by heating it up for us.

The next morning, we packed up and hopped in the car to make our way back to Portland. Which brings me to this – the first time I’ve seen the Gorge in the daylight with my own eyes since “the fire.”

*** * * * ***

If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping you’ll stay with me, because I need to turn a corner and get serious for a moment. I was more than a little anxious about going to the Gorge at all this year. In fact, I’ve consciously avoided driving through it in the daylight ever since September 2^nd, when a carelessly set wildfire took off and eventually burned 48,831 acres in the heart of the Gorge, changing its landscape for generations.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

I wish I had taken some pictures while we were driving home that would illustrate the both the devastation and hope. Unfortunately, when Mr B and I were driving through, I was too busy crying to take any pictures. Many thanks to Staci W. [Crafty Staci] for sharing these images of the fire with us. They were taken on her phone from a moving sheriff’s car shortly after the fire started.

If you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest, you may not understand, but for many of us here, the Columbia River Gorge is far more than just the pretty place we keep our waterfalls. The Gorge is where we root our feet to the earth, and where we search our souls, and where we find our solace. When the Eagle Creek fire rushed through last fall, it was as if someone had come in the dark of night and burned down our church. Our synagogue. Our mosque. Our sacred ground.

So, I’m here to report to my PNW brothers and sisters who have not yet gone – what I saw from the highway gave me hope. Now, I know that most of the burn can’t be seen from the road, and we really won’t get a good feel for the whole of the loss until much later, but I did see more trees than I expected still standing tall. The high ridges, particularly on the west end of the Gorge, are lined with blackened evergreen skeletons, but there is far more life happening on the slopes than I imagined, even in the middle of winter. I may not ever see the Gorge in its full majesty again in my lifetime, but my grandchildren might, and that gives me hope.

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

Businesses in the Gorge are waiting for people to return. They need us. If you are thinking of taking a getaway and you live in the Pacific Northwest, consider spending some time in the Gorge. It’s still there, waiting for you.

McCully House Inn – Jacksonville, Oregon {Plus a Ghost Story!}

February 16 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Located in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon, the McCully House Inn is just a few short blocks from the town’s historic downtown district, with restaurants, watering holes, antique stores, artisan shops, and Brittfest within easy walking distance.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

The McCully House consists of seven deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I stayed in the McCully “Queen Room,” a second floor guest room that overlooks California Street and features a Queen sized pillow-top bed, a sitting area with a lovely two-sided antique desk, and a private bath. The accommodations were spacious, quiet, and private, and the bed was exceptionally comfortable.

Each McCully House Inn guestroom features a coffee maker, refrigerator, flat screen television, bottled water, Aveda bath products, and complimentary Wifi. Guests also receive a $10 certificate that con be used at one of five local restaurants, all within walking distance, for breakfast each day.

The McCully House Inn is the oldest home in Oregon currently operating as an inn. It has quite an interesting history, too. It was built in 1861 by John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, only to have him abandon it a year later (along with his wife, Jane, and their three children). Dr. McCully left Jane the McCully House, along with all his debt. To survive, Jane initially turned to baking bread and pies to support her family, and for a short time leased the house out to one Amos Rogers as a boarding house.

However, Jane was a trained teacher, and apparently a real go-getter, too. In June of 1862, she opened “Mrs McCully’s Seminary” – the town’s first school for girls – in her family’s old log cabin. By the end of 1862, her seminary had become so popular that she took over running McCully House once again, and held her classes there, where she provided advanced education for both girls and boys for generations of children from Jacksonville’s most prominent families.

That should be the end of the story, but it isn’t. It seems that some folks claim that the McCully House is haunted, although reports vary as to just whom is doing the haunting. The most renown story says the after John McCully died, his ghost returned to haunt the house he had left so abruptly. Mary Ann Ramsden, a long-time resident of McCully House, tells about guests claiming to have seen McCully’s ghost sitting calmly in a chair in their room; however, instead of inciting fear, his presence made them feel “comforted, like he was basically a nice guy.” Other McCully House guests have encountered the visage of an unidentified woman walking the halls and up and down the stairs. Have no fear though: all reports have been of the innocuous variety – footsteps, rocking, doors opening and closing and such. Nothing to get excited about. So far, that is…

If you’d like a peak at one of the luxury suites, you’re in luck! Check out this post from one of my traveling companions, Marlynn at Urban Bliss Life.

I very much enjoyed my stay at the McCully House Inn, and look forward to staying there again on future trips to Jacksonville.

McCully House
240 East California Street (Corner of California & Fifth Street)
{Part of Country House Inns Jacksonville}
Phone: (541) 899-2050

Disclosure: My stay at McCully House was complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

Southern Oregon Travel: Pennington Farms {+ Blackberry Buckle Recipe}

February 9 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make.

If you ever find yourself traveling through southern Oregon’s beautiful Applegate Valley between Medford and Grants Pass, Pennington Farms is one stop you must plan to make. I fell in love with the place the first time I visited.

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

So begins the saga of Pennington Farms, which welcomes visitors as soon as they step through the bakery door.

Founded by the Sam and Cathy Pennington back in the mid-‘90s, this 90-acre family-run farm now grows between 38-50 varieties of berries each year, including many hard-to-find heirloom varieties. As stewards of the land, the Pennington family is committed to a farming philosophy that relies on organic, biodynamic methods, with a goal of working in harmony with the earth’s natural rhythm.

The Country Bakery at Pennington Farms is a delight for the senses and aromatherapy for the soul. Beautiful scratch-made pastries, pies, and cookies, homemade jams and syrups. Surfboards from a former life decorate the walls and seasonal berries line the shelves. Good vibes abound.

Pennington Farms focuses on cultivating harder-to-grow heirloom berries, which typically produce fewer, smaller berries that must be picked by hand. The trade-off for this extra labor is an intensity of true berry flavor that, according to Cathy Pennington, newer hybrid varieties simply don’t deliver.

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Berry season is fleeting and fresh berries off the vine have a very short shelf life; nevertheless, with just a minimum of effort you can have berries year-round.

When you bring fresh berries home, cull them and immediately discard any moldy or overripe berries.
Put the remaining berries, unwashed, into a container lined with paper towels to absorb any moisture.
Do not wash berries until just before eating, and then only briefly in cold water.
To freeze berries, distribute dry berries in a single layer on a clean cookie sheet and put them in the freezer until frozen. Remove from freezer just long enough to pour into a plastic freezer container or sealable freezer bag and return them to the freezer immediately. Berries can be frozen for up to one year.
When baking with frozen berries, do not thaw before using.

5 from 5 votes

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Course Dessert

Prep Time 30 minutes

Cook Time 1 hour

Total Time 1 hour 30 minutes

Servings 8

Author Pennington Farms, Grants Pass, OR

Ingredients

Batter:

2 cups flour
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup butter softened
¾ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries

Topping:

½ cup flour
½ cup sugar
¼ cup butter

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x9 baking dish.
In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
In a medium mixing bowl, beat butter on high until pale and fluffy. Add sugar and continue mixing until they are thoroughly creamed. Beat in egg.
With mixer on low, add flour mixture and milk to creamed mixture a little at a time, alternating between the two and beating until smooth.
Spoon batter into prepared pan. Evenly distribute berries over top.

Topping

In a small bowl, combine flour and sugar, and then cut in butter with a pastry blender, fork (or your fingers) until the mixture resembles oatmeal. Sprinkle over berries.
Bake in preheat oven 50-60 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm, preferably with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

To get to Pennington Farms, take the “long way” between Grants Pass and Medford on the Jacksonville-Williams Highway [Oregon Route 238]. The Pennington Farms bakery and farm market are open almost year round, and their products are available at the farmers’ markets in Ashland, Medford and Grants Pass, as well as specialty shops throughout the area.

Pennington Farms
11341 Williams Hwy
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.0550
pnnngtnj@aol.com

My visit to Penningrton Farms was included as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own.

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

January 18 By Renée ♥ 23 Comments

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

3 Days in Jacksonville [Travel Oregon]
Things to Do in Jacksonville [TripAdvisor]
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Jacksonville [Urban Bliss Life]
I Spent the Night in Historic Jacksonville [Melissa Kaylene]

My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. As always, all opinions and images (except as noted) are my own.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Rogue Creamery {+ 24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes}

November 10 By Renée ♥ 5 Comments

In my last post, I introduced you to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor, a small alliance of artisan culinary shops in Central Point, Oregon, and shared our experiences at Lillie Belle Farms with Jeff Shepherd and his amazing chocolates. Today, it’s all about the Cheese.

Specifically, Blue Cheese…

… creamy, salty, savory, delicious, handcrafted, award-winning, internationally-acclaimed Rogue Creamery Blue Cheese.

For many years, I erroneously thought that blue cheese, Roquetfort, Gorgonzola and the like were distinctly different cheeses. And they are… but they aren’t. Like Swiss- and cheddar-style cheeses, there are a wide variety of blue cheeses, each with its own unique flavor and textures, but they can ofttimes be used interchangeably in recipes. So before we go any farther, let’s take a moment to discuss what blue cheese is.

Blue Cheese Basics

Blue cheese is most often made from cow, sheep, or goat milk.
Blue cheese is made by culturing milk with Penicillium, a type of mold.
Different blue cheeses are cultured in various ways, using unique strains of Penicullium, giving them their distinct flavor, texture, and aroma.
In the European Union, many blue cheeses (e.g., Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton) are protected, and can bear their name only if they have been made in a particular region.

Some Popular Varieties of Blue Cheese

Cabrales – Traditionally made from mixing goat and sheep’s milk together, Cabrales has a strong, spicy flavor.
Danish Blue – This strong blue cheese is creamy, with a semi-soft texture.
Dorset Blue Vinney – This English blue cheese is made with unpasteurized, skimmed cow’s milk, and has a hard texture, a crusty outer layer, and a strong aroma and taste.
Gorgonzola – Made with either cow or goat’s milk (sometimes both), Gorgonzola is a firm, creamy cheese with a salty and often slightly sweet taste.
Roquefort – Famously green-veined, Roquefort has a tangy, salty flavor with sweet undertones.
Stilton – This semi-soft cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, and has a strong aroma and outstanding flavor.

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

There’s something comforting and wonderful about the rustic feel of a real, honest-to-goodness (emphasis on the goodness!) cheese shop, and the Rogue Creamery is about as honest a cheese shop as they come. Founded in 1933 at the height of the depression, Rogue Creamery began producing blue cheese in 1954. Today, they continue to draw both inspiration and resources from Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, and offer award-winning varieties of outstanding handcrafted blue cheese, cheddar cheese, and TouVelle.

Step inside to sample cheeses to your heart’s content. Hungry travelers can order one of their crazy-good panini-style grilled cheese sandwiches, prepared with more than a generous amount of cheese. A great place to pack a perfect picnic, Rogue Creamery also offers a carefully curated selection of deli items, crackers, fruit, beer, and wine, as well as local artisan jams, jellies and sauces. The staff at the shop is helpful and knowledgeable, and will be more than happy to help you with your selections.

PRO TIP: There are always samples available, but if something you want to try isn’t out, all you need to do it ask.

The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. {Gilbert K. Chesterton} Click To Tweet

Rogue Creamery Notes:

Smokey Blue: Referred to in-house as “Beginner Blue,” this smooth, smokey blue packs in all of the flavor (and then some) without the harsh, bitey quality of some blue cheeses. This classic Roquefort-style blue cheese is cold smoked sixteen hours with Oregon Hazelnut shells, resulting in a sweet, creamy, smoky flavor. It crumbles well, and is “easy to eat” as blue cheese goes, and pairs well with well-rounded “food” wines that are on the fruity side and lighter on tannins and acidity.
LaDiDa Lavender Cheddar: I know – it sounds weird, but Mr B and I both love this uniquely floral cheese. LaDiDa would be perfect on a dessert tray with chocolate or scones, and paired with a light dessert wine.
Caveman Blue: Full-bodied, buttery, and AMAZING! Rogue Creamery uses a unique aging environment to create this golden-hued blue that tastes of sweet, fresh buttermilk with hints of tropical fruit. Caveman’s earthy undertones pair well with a wide range of beverages, from bold reds to sweeter desert wines to full-flavored Stouts.
Blue Heaven (Powdered Cheese): Blue Heaven is a proprietary blend of Oregon Blue, Oregonzola, Crater Lake Blue and special reserve blue cheeses. Perfect for sprinkling on salads, breads, popcorn, nuts, and anything else you can think of.

PRO TIP: Not a fan of dry, tannin-rich red wines? Me either. But next time you have the chance, try some with a bite of blue cheese. You may be pleasantly surprised (as I was) to discover that the pairing opens up whole new venues to you. Tannins literally bind to the cheese’s protein and fat, measurably softening the astringent qualities of the tannins, and making the entire tasting experience smoother in the process.

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Blue Cheese is an amazingly versatile cheese; equally perfect on a fruit and cheese plate or as a stand-out ingredient in your next meal. Here’s a little Blue Inspiration 😉 from some of my favorite bloggers.

** Recipes are pictured in order, clockwise from the top left corner of each image.

Disclosure: My first trip to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own.

Take a drive on The Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

TROON VINEYARD

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

RED LILY VINEYARDS

Old San Juan is replete with amazing history, old world charm, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour

Paseo de La Princesa Promenade

Raices Fountain (aka “Roots Fountain”)

Cathedral of San Juan Bautista

Parks, Plazas, Monuments & Fountains

Inside the Old City Wall

La Puerta de San Juan

Castillo San Cristóbal

Cats of San Juan

Barrachina: Birthplace of the Piña Coloda

All Aboard! 🚢

Head Out. Stay In. Whatever you choose, you’ll discover your perfect Oregon coastal getaway at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City.

Headlands Coastal Lodge: Unpretentious Luxury & Oregon Hospitality

“Stay In”

Cackling Geese ~ Spirit of Headlands

“Head Out”

Tidepools Spa & Wellness Center

Meridian

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa

Visitors to Orenco Woods Nature Park can choose from wide variety of activities, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, picnicking, and enjoying the native wildlife. (Oh, and hangin’ out with giant Twig People. Don’t about forget them.)

Malcolm McDonald House {Est. 1910}

Walking the Rock Creek Nature Trail

Woven Willow and Red Twig Dogwood Branch Sculptures

Visitor Information

Please leave a comment below! 🏞 What unique parks are in your neighborhood?

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basque Sheep Wagons

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

* * * * *

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make.

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life And ended up finding his wife. The couple got married and had quite a clan Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life” So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Ingredients

Batter:

Topping:

Instructions

Topping

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Explore: Applegate Valley

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

Unwind: Brittfest

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

Blue Cheese Basics

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

Rogue Creamery Notes:

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Main Dishes

Salads

Sides

Baked Goods

Appetizers & Small Bites

Dressings, Sauces, Spreads & Dips

*** * * * ***

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”