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What We Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival {Buffalo, Wyoming}

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Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted WomanThe only real connection to the North American Basque community that I personally have is an impossibly thin thread that runs from me through the amazing woman who taught me to ride horses to the Basque man she was married to for many years.

Rena was a former Miss Rodeo Oregon and beautiful beyond words. I was nine. She taught me to races barrels and jump hay bales and ride faster than the wind. She later married a man from the Nevada Basque community, and once while traveling with my parents to Arizona, we took a side trip to see her. One thing that still stands out to me about our visit – besides seeing Rena and her new baby – was the vast, arid landscape of the Nevada range and the half an hour we had to wait on the dusty dirt road while the largest herd of sheep I have ever seen passed across in front of us.

Ever since that long-ago visit, I’ve had a mild fascination with the unique, mysterious Basque community. So when Mr B and I motored into Buffalo, Wyoming last summer for lunch and saw the “North American Basque Festival” banners hanging across Main Street,  I was intrigued and excited to see what was happening.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basques are an “indigenous ethnic group,” unique unto themselves, and may be the oldest ethnic group in Europe. Neither French nor Spanish, their homeland lies between the base of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, comprised of seven traditional provinces that bridge the border between Spain and France. Likewise, their unique language – which they call Euskara – is like no other language spoken in Europe – or the world.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

When I was doing research for this post, I tried to find out how approximately how many people of Basque heritage now live in North America, but reported numbers varied wildly – from less than 100,000 to over a million. What I can tell you is most Basques in North America are descended from 19th century emigrants, and large Basque communities can be found across the western United States and in some Canadian provinces.

Basques began moving to Wyoming in the early 1900s to herd sheep, and the Buffalo continues to celebrate its long history with the Basque community. A small flock of bronze sheep and a bronze herding dog on Main Street remind visitors of Buffalo’s long history with the Basque community. As the plaque that accompanies the bronzes reads:

The heritage of the Basque people runs deep in the history of Johnson County [Wyoming].  Coming from a mountainous, agrarian culture in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, they took to the open range of Wyoming, bringing colorful traditions and a knowledge of raising sheep. They depended on their dogs, often Border Collies as companions and helper to protect and herd the sheep. The Basque farmers remain influential throughout this community to the present day.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

Basques in the North America have embraced their new home, even as they continue to honor their unique heritage. One of the ways they do this is through the many gatherings and festivals that are held in small towns across “Basque country.”

The North American Basque Festival, sponsored by the North American Basque Organization [NABO], has been held annually since 1979, with the location rotating each year. (Buffalo, Wyoming will host the festival and convention again again in 2021.) The three-day festival includes traditional food, music, and dancing; and featured artisans and vendors all celebrating the Basque culture.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

If you happen to be a knitter, crocheter, or spinner, you will love attending a Basque Festival! There were skeins and skeins of wool roving and beautiful, hand-dyed yarns for purchase everywhere!

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

The line for barbecued lamb was ridiculous, stretching for well over a block, to the great disappointment to Mr B. (I don’t eat lamb, so no tears here. It did smell delicious though.)

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

(Hungry for a traditional Basque meal? Try out this recipe for Basque Braised Chicken With Peppers [Chicken Basquaise].)

Everywhere we turned we saw lauburu motifs. The lauburu (or Basque cross) is a symbol of the Basque Country and the unity of the Basque people.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Basque Sheep Wagons

The coolest thing we saw at the Festival was the collection of “Karro kampos,’ or traditional Basque sheep wagons. Basque sheep wagons, which we learned are an invention of the American West, reached their height of popularity in the 1910’s. They continue to be used by some sheep herders, particularly in Idaho, even today.

Serendipity in Buffalo: National Basque Festival {Wyoming} | The Good Hearted Woman

No two wagons that we saw were exactly the same; however, as we peeked into each one, we noticed certain consistencies. For example, the door was always at the front of the wagon, and the bed was always at the back. Most vintage wagons (like the one below) had a wash-pan hanging on the door, a wood stove to the left of the door (going in), and a stove pipe coming out the top.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

I love the detailing on this little cast iron wood stove. This wagon has a stove-pipe popping out the top.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Other wagons had more contemporary interiors, with gas stoves, up-to-date cabinetry, and tiled floors.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

This wagon – proudly displayed by the 4th generation Basque family of George Etchemenoy – was a work of art. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship on the wagon, along with the matching child-sized wagon and wooden tractor, was outstanding.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

Check out the turquoise inlay on the front of the wooden tractor.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

If you have the opportunity to attend a Basque festival, we enthusiastically encourage you to go – you will have a great time and probably learn something in the process! Visit the North American Basque Organization website to learn more.

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman

What I Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival - Buffalo, Wyoming | The Good Hearted Woman


Take a Romantic Winter Getaway to Hood River, Oregon

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Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Every year for Valentine’s Day, Mr B and I take a little romantic getaway. It doesn’t matter if the holiday falls in the middle of the week or on a weekend – we always take at least one day off and head for a quiet destination, usually close to home. This year, as we are wont to do, we headed for the Columbia Gorge.

We left for our getaway after work on a Tuesday afternoon, and drove up to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, arriving well after dark. Stepping into the lobby, we were promptly greeted by an amazingly friendly, enthusiastic hotel employee named Rick, who would act as our concierge, bell-hop, elevator operator, ice-bucket filler, doorman, and hotel historian during our stay.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel – once known as the “Waldorf of the West” – was built by Portland businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson in 1921. The elegant hotel has a rich history (complete with lots of ghost stories!), and at one time hosted such early film icons as Clara Bow, Rudolph Valentino, and Shirley Temple, as well as dignitaries like Presidents Roosevelt and Coolidge.

Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our third floor King room was lovely, with a 180° view of the Columbia River, a large bathroom (by 1921 standards), and an little electric fireplace. Having stayed in a standard room at the Columbia Gorge Hotel the distant past, I can tell you with confidence that our King room was far superior to a standard room. Most notably, it was about twice as big: the space allotted for a standard in 1921 is what realtors like to call “charming” and “cozy.” The King room we stayed was about the same size as a contemporary standard mid-range hotel room.

Window View - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Travel Tip: Weekday rates at the Columbia Gorge Hotel are often literally half that of weekend rates. If you can find the time during the week, it’s quite a deal!

The next morning when room service delivered our breakfast, we discovered that we had ordered twice as much food as we needed! Our breakfast croissants were huge, and each one came with a generous serving of O’Brien potatoes and an adorable little airplane-size bottle of ketchup. Everything arrived fresh, warm, and delicious. No worries about leftovers, either – after we finished eating, we popped our leftovers into the little room fridge to save for a midnight snack and set out to plan our day.

Mama Bear - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Any other Mama Bears out there? 💚 {Sculpture by Ann Fleming; part of Hood River BIG ART Walking Tour}

We had a loose plan to spend the day touring and tasting at a few of the wineries near Hood River, so we started our tour in downtown Hood River, where we stopped in at a cool little espresso bar called Ground to enjoy a warm beverage while charted out our route. Being there on a Wednesday in the middle of winter made our choices very easy – only three of the fifteen or so wineries around the city of Hood River were open for us to visit.

Ground 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our first stop was Cathedral Ridge Winery, one of the only vineyards in Hood River with tasting room hours every day of the week year-round. The winery is located high above the Columbia on the west end of Hood River, with sweeping views of Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the south west. We spent the better part of an hour in the Cathedral Ridge tasting room, where we were greeted warmly and treated like old friends. Pours for our tasting were generous, and extra varieties were introduced as we discussed our preferences with our attentive and knowledgeable host.

Winery - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

After we finished our tasting and purchased a few bottles to take home, we wandered outside to enjoy a walk around the grounds, where wooden benches and outdoor tables set up for picnickers dot the property. The middle of February was a little too chilly for a picnic though, so we instead opted for a quick selfie before we got back in the car.

Me & Me B - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Look! We took a selfie!

We next ventured a little farther out into the country, where we found the Phelps Creek tasting room, which like Cathedral Ridge is open daily and year-round. The tasting room is located on the beautiful Hood River Golf Course, the features wines produced from nearby Estate-grown grapes. This small boutique winery focuses on estate grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; annually producing 5,000 cases total of all varietals.

Phelps Creek 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

One of the things Mr B and I like best about going out with just a tissue-paper plan is you just never know who or what will happen to surprise you. While we were visiting with the host at Phelps Creek, tasting room associate and sports photographer Brian Robb walked in, sat down at the bar and introduced himself. We were in no hurry, so we spent the next half hour chatting with Brian about some of the events he has shot around the world; in particular his experiences photographing World Skiing Racing Championships and the Olympic Winter Games. We thoroughly enjoyed both the company and the conversation at Phelps Creek.

(I have always to laugh at myself when I meet “action” photographers – I can barely get food to hold still for a good shot. Moving targets are usually way beyond my photography skillset.)

Phelps Creek 2 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

After finishing at Phelps Creek, we made the short drive back into town and grabbed a late lunch at The Trillium Cafe in downtown Hood River before stopping at our last tasting room – Stave & Stone.

Stave & Stone 1 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Esthetically, Stave & Stone is the poshest of the three tasting rooms we visited, and the newest as well. The space itself is large and open, with lots of warm hues, subdued lighting, and naturally finished woods all lending a cozy feel. Besides the tasting bar, there are plenty of small gathering spots, too – comfy chairs, cozy booths, cafe tables, and a couch or two.

Stave & Stone 2 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Our tasting room host was upbeat, friendly, and knowledgeable. As she poured our tastings, she enthusiastically shared a little of the history of this five generation winery with us – including the story of “The Old Man” – the last orchard apple tree standing on the family farm. The tree has been immortalized by local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized in an intricate metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

[This Gravenstein tree] symbolizes five generations of Fletchers, a touchstone of the legacy that began with apples and pears. The orchard has been transitioning into a vineyard for awhile now, but we’re keeping this ancient fellow. It is so old, it is nearly hollowed out inside, yet it still manages to produce blossoms and fruit every year. ~ Stave & Stone

Stave & Stone 3 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized the old family Gravenstein tree in a metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

There was still plenty of daylight left when we left Stave & Stone, so we drove back to the hotel and took a stroll around the grounds, first exploring the south side in the front of the hotel.

Gardens - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

The Columbia Gorge Hotel maintains seven acres of beautifully manicured gardens. Phelps Creek (for which the aforementioned winery is named) runs through the property, and natural water features dominate the landscape.

Ducks - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

I tried to get the ducks to pose for a picture, but they weren’t interested. 😉

Statue - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

On the river-side of the Columbia Gorge Hotel, you will find Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, where Phelps Creek flows and falls 207 feet into the Columbia. Once known as Lullaby Falls (apparently for the sleep-inducing properties that its soothing water sounds have on hotel guests) Wah Gwin Gwin now takes its name from a Chinook term meaning “rushing waters.”

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Viewer - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Most people on a romantic getaway like ours would probably choose to dine on a fancy dinner in the hotel’s posh restaurant, Simon’s Cliffhouse and Valentino Bar. However, Mr B and I have along-standing tradition of homemade Shepherd’s Pie on our Valentine’s getaway, no matter where we are. Sometimes it takes a little creativity to pull it off, but so far, we’ve always managed to make it happen. This year, our room had a nice refrigerator to keep things cold, but no microwave to warm it up. Our buddy Rick-the-Awesome-Hotel-Guy saved the day by heating it up for us.

Shepherd's Pie is classic comfort food. One bite of this time-tested family favorite will wrap you in a blanket as warm as a winter fire. It's just that good. {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman

The next morning, we packed up and hopped in the car to make our way back to Portland. Which brings me to this – the first time I’ve seen the Gorge in the daylight with my own eyes since “the fire.”

 * * * * *

If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping you’ll stay with me, because I need to turn a corner and get serious for a moment. I was more than a little anxious about going to the Gorge at all this year. In fact, I’ve consciously avoided driving through it in the daylight ever since September 2nd, when a carelessly set wildfire took off and eventually burned 48,831 acres in the heart of the Gorge, changing its landscape for generations.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

I wish I had taken some pictures while we were driving home that would illustrate the both the devastation and hope. Unfortunately, when Mr B and I were driving through, I was too busy crying to take any pictures. Many thanks to Staci W. [Crafty Staci] for sharing these images of the fire with us. They were taken on her phone from a moving sheriff’s car shortly after the fire started.

If you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest, you may not understand, but for many of us here, the Columbia River Gorge is far more than just the pretty place we keep our waterfalls. The Gorge is where we root our feet to the earth, and where we search our souls, and where we find our solace. When the Eagle Creek fire rushed through last fall, it was as if someone had come in the dark of night and burned down our church. Our synagogue. Our mosque. Our sacred ground.

So, I’m here to report to my PNW brothers and sisters who have not yet gone – what I saw from the highway gave me hope. Now, I know that most of the burn can’t be seen from the road, and we really won’t get a good feel for the whole of the loss until much later, but I did see more trees than I expected still standing tall. The high ridges, particularly on the west end of the Gorge, are lined with blackened evergreen skeletons, but there is far more life happening on the slopes than I imagined, even in the middle of winter. I may not ever see the Gorge in its full majesty again in my lifetime, but my grandchildren might, and that gives me hope.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

Businesses in the Gorge are waiting for people to return. They need us. If you are thinking of taking a getaway and you live in the Pacific Northwest, consider spending some time in the Gorge. It’s still there, waiting for you.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

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McCully House Inn – Jacksonville, Oregon {Plus a Ghost Story!}

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Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

Located in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon, the McCully House Inn is just a few short blocks from the town’s historic downtown district, with restaurants, watering holes, antique stores, artisan shops, and Brittfest within easy walking distance.

Corner Sign - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman
This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.
The McCully House consists of seven deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I stayed in the McCully “Queen Room,” a second floor guest room that overlooks California Street and features a Queen sized pillow-top bed, a sitting area with a lovely two-sided antique desk, and a private bath. The accommodations were spacious, quiet, and private, and the bed was exceptionally comfortable.

Bedroom - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

Each McCully House Inn guestroom features a coffee maker, refrigerator, flat screen television, bottled water, Aveda bath products, and complimentary Wifi. Guests also receive a $10 certificate that con be used at one of five local restaurants, all within walking distance, for breakfast each day.

Desk - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

The McCully House Inn is the oldest home in Oregon currently operating as an inn.  It has quite an interesting history, too. It was built in 1861 by John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, only to have him abandon it a year later (along with his wife, Jane, and their three children). Dr. McCully left Jane the McCully House, along with all his debt. To survive, Jane initially turned to baking bread and pies to support her family, and for a short time leased the house out to one Amos Rogers as a boarding house.

Sitting area - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

However, Jane was a trained teacher, and apparently a real go-getter, too. In June of 1862, she opened “Mrs McCully’s Seminary” – the town’s first school for girls – in her family’s old log cabin. By the end of 1862, her seminary had become so popular that she took over running McCully House once again, and held her classes there, where she provided advanced education for both girls and boys for generations of children from Jacksonville’s most prominent families.

Collage - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

That should be the end of the story, but it isn’t. It seems that some folks claim that the McCully House is haunted, although reports vary as to just whom is doing the haunting. The most renown story says the after John McCully died, his ghost returned to haunt the house he had left so abruptly. Mary Ann Ramsden, a long-time resident of McCully House, tells about guests claiming to have seen McCully’s ghost sitting calmly in a chair in their room; however, instead of inciting fear, his presence made them feel “comforted, like he was basically a nice guy.” Other McCully House guests have encountered the visage of an unidentified woman walking the halls and up and down the stairs. Have no fear though: all reports have been of the innocuous variety – footsteps, rocking, doors opening and closing and such. Nothing to get excited about. So far, that is…

Clock face - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

If you’d like a peak at one of the luxury suites, you’re in luck! Check out this post from one of my traveling companions, Marlynn at Urban Bliss Life.

Front door - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

I very much enjoyed my stay at the McCully House Inn, and look forward to staying there again on future trips to Jacksonville.

McCully House
240 East California Street (Corner of California & Fifth Street)
{Part of Country House Inns Jacksonville}
Phone:  (541) 899-2050

Adirondack Chairs - Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman
Disclosure: My stay at McCully House was complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Wander Wisely

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, OregonBrittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Pennington Farms, Applegate ValleyPennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, OregonRogue Creamery, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, OregonLillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Blackberry Buckle Recipe, Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman
Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman
Southern Oregon Travel: McCully House {Jacksonville} | The Good Hearted Woman

Southern Oregon Travel: Pennington Farms {+ Blackberry Buckle Recipe}

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Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms  recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make. 

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley - Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman
If you ever find yourself traveling through southern Oregon’s beautiful Applegate Valley between Medford and Grants Pass, Pennington Farms is one stop you must plan to make. I fell in love with the place the first time I visited.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

So begins the saga of Pennington Farms, which welcomes visitors as soon as they step through the bakery door.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Founded by the Sam and Cathy Pennington back in the mid-‘90s, this 90-acre family-run farm now grows between 38-50 varieties of berries each year, including many hard-to-find heirloom varieties. As stewards of the land, the Pennington family is committed to a farming philosophy that relies on organic, biodynamic methods, with a goal of working in harmony with the earth’s natural rhythm.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

The Country Bakery at Pennington Farms is a delight for the senses and aromatherapy for the soul. Beautiful scratch-made pastries, pies, and cookies, homemade jams and syrups. Surfboards from a former life decorate the walls and seasonal berries line the shelves. Good vibes abound.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Pennington Farms focuses on cultivating harder-to-grow heirloom berries, which typically produce fewer, smaller berries that must be picked by hand. The trade-off for this extra labor is an intensity of true berry flavor that, according to Cathy Pennington, newer hybrid varieties simply don’t deliver.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Berry season is fleeting and fresh berries off the vine have a very short shelf life; nevertheless, with just a minimum of effort you can have berries year-round.

  1. When you bring fresh berries home, cull them and immediately discard any moldy or overripe berries.
  2. Put the remaining berries, unwashed, into a container lined with paper towels to absorb any moisture.
  3. Do not wash berries until just before eating, and then only briefly in cold water.
  4. To freeze berries, distribute dry berries in a single layer on a clean cookie sheet and put them in the freezer until frozen. Remove from freezer just long enough to pour into a plastic freezer container or sealable freezer bag and return them to the freezer immediately. Berries can be frozen for up to one year.
  5. When baking with frozen berries, do not thaw before using.
Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman
5 from 5 votes
Print

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Course Dessert
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour
Total Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Servings 8
Author Pennington Farms, Grants Pass, OR

Ingredients

Batter:

  • 2 cups flour
  • 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup butter softened
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 egg
  • ½ cup milk
  • 2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries

Topping:

  • ½ cup flour
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup butter

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x9 baking dish. 

  2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. 

  3. In a medium mixing bowl, beat butter on high until pale and fluffy. Add sugar and continue mixing until they are thoroughly creamed. Beat in egg. 

  4. With mixer on low, add flour mixture and milk to creamed mixture a little at a time, alternating between the two and beating until smooth. 

  5. Spoon batter into prepared pan. Evenly distribute berries over top. 

Topping

  1. In a small bowl, combine flour and sugar, and then cut in butter with a pastry blender, fork (or your fingers) until the mixture resembles oatmeal. Sprinkle over berries. 

  2. Bake in preheat oven 50-60 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm, preferably with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. 

To get to Pennington Farms, take the “long way” between Grants Pass and Medford on the Jacksonville-Williams Highway [Oregon Route 238]. The Pennington Farms bakery and farm market are open almost year round, and their products are available at the farmers’ markets in Ashland, Medford and Grants Pass, as well as specialty shops throughout the area.

Pennington Farms
11341 Williams Hwy
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.0550
pnnngtnj@aol.com

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

My visit to Penningrton Farms was included as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. 


Wander Wisely

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, OregonBrittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

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One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

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Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville  is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites.  I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

The McCully House - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Jacksonville Trolley - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Shops - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

The Cheesemonger's Wife - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

The Cheesemonger's Wife - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley - Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Applegate Valley - Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Boomtown Saloon - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

  • Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
  • Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
  • Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
  • Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
  • Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links: 

My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. As always, all opinions and images (except as noted) are my own. 

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history. | Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Rogue Creamery {+ 24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes}

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In my last post, I introduced you to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor, a small alliance of artisan culinary shops in Central Point, Oregon, and shared our experiences at Lillie Belle Farms with Jeff Shepherd and his amazing chocolates. Today, it’s all about the Cheese.

Specifically, Blue Cheese…

Rogue Creamery, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

… creamy, salty, savory, delicious, handcrafted, award-winning, internationally-acclaimed Rogue Creamery Blue Cheese.

For many years, I erroneously thought that blue cheese, Roquetfort, Gorgonzola and the like were distinctly different cheeses. And they are… but they aren’t. Like Swiss- and cheddar-style cheeses, there are a wide variety of blue cheeses, each with its own unique flavor and textures, but they can ofttimes be used interchangeably in recipes. So before we go any farther, let’s take a moment to discuss what blue cheese is.

Blue Cheese Basics

  • Blue cheese is most often made from cow, sheep, or goat milk.
  • Blue cheese is made by culturing milk with Penicillium, a type of mold.
  • Different blue cheeses are cultured in various ways, using unique strains of Penicullium, giving them their distinct flavor, texture, and aroma.
  • In the European Union, many blue cheeses (e.g., Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton) are protected, and can bear their name only if they have been made in a particular region.

Some Popular Varieties of Blue Cheese

  • Cabrales – Traditionally made from mixing goat and sheep’s milk together, Cabrales has a strong, spicy flavor.
  • Danish Blue – This strong blue cheese is creamy, with a semi-soft texture.
  • Dorset Blue Vinney – This English blue cheese is made with unpasteurized, skimmed cow’s milk, and has a hard texture, a crusty outer layer, and a strong aroma and taste.
  • Gorgonzola – Made with either cow or goat’s milk (sometimes both), Gorgonzola is a firm, creamy cheese with a salty and often slightly sweet taste.
  • Roquefort – Famously green-veined, Roquefort has a tangy, salty flavor with sweet undertones.
  • Stilton – This semi-soft cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, and has a strong aroma and outstanding flavor.

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

There’s something comforting and wonderful about the rustic feel of a real, honest-to-goodness (emphasis on the goodness!) cheese shop, and the Rogue Creamery is about as honest a cheese shop as they come. Founded in 1933 at the height of the depression, Rogue Creamery began producing blue cheese in 1954. Today, they continue to draw both inspiration and resources from Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, and offer award-winning varieties of outstanding handcrafted blue cheese, cheddar cheese, and TouVelle.

Rogue Creamery, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Step inside to sample cheeses to your heart’s content. Hungry travelers can order one of their crazy-good panini-style grilled cheese sandwiches, prepared with more than a generous amount of cheese. A great place to pack a perfect picnic, Rogue Creamery also offers a carefully curated selection of deli items, crackers, fruit, beer, and wine, as well as local artisan jams, jellies and sauces. The staff at the shop is helpful and knowledgeable, and will be more than happy to help you with your selections.

PRO TIP: There are always samples available, but if something you want to try isn’t out, all you need to do it ask.

Rogue Creamery, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. {Gilbert K. Chesterton} Click To Tweet

Rogue Creamery Notes: 

  • Smokey Blue: Referred to in-house as “Beginner Blue,” this smooth, smokey blue packs in all of the flavor (and then some) without the harsh, bitey quality of some blue cheeses. This classic Roquefort-style blue cheese is cold smoked sixteen hours with Oregon Hazelnut shells, resulting in a sweet, creamy, smoky flavor. It crumbles well, and is “easy to eat” as blue cheese goes, and pairs well with well-rounded “food” wines that are on the fruity side and lighter on tannins and acidity.
  • LaDiDa Lavender Cheddar: I know – it sounds weird, but Mr B and I both love this uniquely floral cheese. LaDiDa would be perfect on a dessert tray with chocolate or scones, and paired with a light dessert wine.
  • Caveman Blue: Full-bodied, buttery, and AMAZING! Rogue Creamery uses a unique aging environment to create this golden-hued blue that tastes of sweet, fresh buttermilk with hints of tropical fruit. Caveman’s earthy undertones pair well with a wide range of beverages, from bold reds to sweeter desert wines to full-flavored Stouts.
  • Blue Heaven (Powdered Cheese): Blue Heaven is a proprietary blend of Oregon Blue, Oregonzola, Crater Lake Blue and special reserve blue cheeses. Perfect for sprinkling on salads, breads, popcorn, nuts, and anything else you can think of.

PRO TIP: Not a fan of dry, tannin-rich red wines? Me either. But next time you have the chance, try some with a bite of blue cheese. You may be pleasantly surprised (as I was) to discover that the pairing opens up whole new venues to you. Tannins literally bind to the cheese’s protein and fat, measurably softening the astringent qualities of the tannins, and making the entire tasting experience smoother in the process.

Rogue Creamery, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Blue Cheese is an amazingly versatile cheese; equally perfect on a fruit and cheese plate or as a stand-out ingredient in your next meal. Here’s a little Blue Inspiration 😉 from some of my favorite bloggers.

** Recipes are pictured in order, clockwise from the top left corner of each image. 

Main Dishes

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Salads

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Sides

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Baked Goods

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Appetizers & Small Bites

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Dressings, Sauces, Spreads & Dips

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

Disclosure: My first trip to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own. 

24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes | The Good Hearted Woman

At the Corner of Music & Chocolate {Lillie Belle Farms}

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Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Tucked just off I-5 in the unassuming southern Oregon town of Central Point, you can find divine respite from the road in a luxurious trifecta of world-class cheese, wine, and chocolate. The Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor – aptly coined “a little stretch of heaven” – is a small grouping of distinct artisan shops that have formed a culinary alliance of sorts. Each shop offers on-site tastings, and they occasionally even collaborate on projects together. I have visited there not once, but twice in the last month, sampling prize-winning cheeses from Rogue Creamery, estate-grown wines from Ledger David Cellars, and hand-crafted chocolates from Lillie Belle Farms – all just steps from one another.

Today, however, it’s all about the Chocolate. 

Lillie Belle Farms founder Jeff Shepherd abides at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens. Like an electric anthem, Jeff’s chocolates are a passionate, vibrant expression of his art.

We are savage Rock ‘N’ Roll fans at Lillie Belle! Having attended literally thousands of loud live shows and seen hundreds of bands both old and new, Rock ‘N’ Roll is an integral part of our creative process. You will always hear music pulsing out of our kitchen. In fact, it’s impossible to separate our chocolate life from our musical life. 

~ Jeff Shepherd, Lillie Belle Farms

[Cue: Sugar Magnolia] 😉

The first time I visited Lillie Belle Farms {on a Travel Oregon press tour}, we arrived right at closing time, and Jeff was in the process of transforming himself from chocolate artisan and entrepreneur to band member and guitar player. Now, it might be helpful for me to note that, on this particular trip, most of my traveling companions were significantly younger than me and may have lacked the deep appreciation for the tie-dyed generation and all that we stand for. Jeff, on the other hand, falls approximately into my age demographic, and is every good thing you think of when you think Tie-Dyed Southern Oregon Musician + Chocolate.  In other words, we kinda connected. I mean, what’s not to like about a guy who keeps a set of portable baffle boards in his chocolate kitchen so that he can set up for band practice at a moment’s notice? So while all the rest of my party sprinted across the parking lot to Ledger David for our prearranged wine-tasting, I lingered a few extra minutes at Lillie Belle, chatting with Jeff about his current inspirations and future plans; and while I can’t share everything we talked about at the moment, I can tell you that there is a lot to look forward to!

Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Just a few weeks after my first visit, I had the opportunity to stop at Lillie Belles again, this time with Mr B. We arrived on a Sunday morning just before the doors opened, and there was already a line waiting to get in! Nevertheless, Jeff greeted us warmly and gave us the full VIP treatment, including a tour of the inner sanctum – his kitchen/band practice space. He and Mr B talked band life and bantered about musical preferences and what songs they had covered. Jeff showed us the corner of the kitchen dedicated to Elvis, and his expansive wall of Grateful Dead covers, and his amazing custom traveling chocolate cart covered with backstage passes and concert tickets. (I can’t remember every one, but we visited the week Tom Petty died, so I do remember there being many, many passes for Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers.) By the end of our visit, I was practically ready to invite Jeff and his crew up north for dinner and an impromptu jam session. I’d even let him bring dessert. (hehehe 😉 )

(Want to learn more about Jeff and his “ecclectic mind bending and transformative chocolate madness”? Check out his very entertaining Lillie Belle Farms blog.)

But enough about Jeff. Let’s talk about his chocolates.

Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Lillie Belle Farms, named for Jeff’s wife Belle and daughter Lillie,  now moves some 20,000 pounds of chocolate a year, in the form of handmade gourmet chocolate bars, decadent ganache-filled chocolates, liquor-infused chocolates, truffles, fresh berry cups, cherry cordials, and chocolates filled with handmade fondants, butter creams, caramels, and toasted nuts. They even have a Smokey Blue Cheese Truffle Spread; a collaboration with Rogue Creamery that combines an amazing, award-winning Smokey Blue Cheese, organic milk chocolate, and toasted almonds into a surprisingly satisfying spreadable tangy chocolate concoction.

Cheese and chocolate spread notwithstanding, one of the things I appreciated most about Lillie Belle Farms chocolates was the simplicity of the flavor profiles that they employ. What I mean is, lately I’ve been to some food events where I’ve sampled confections that intentionally challenge my palate with a confusing amalgamation of flavors that require me to do some serious cranial calisthenics as my brain tries to isolate and delineate each component. (Chili cilantro salted coffee cream, anyone?) Conversely, the overwhelming majority of Lillie Belle chocolates are single-flavored bites, allowing you to lean back and simply enjoy the experience as the cocoa flavanols rouse your brain and the velvety chocolate caresses your tongue.

{Tangentially, there is some science behind why that strange Blue Cheese ‘n Chocolate combo works, but in a nutshell, it’s apparently because they share at least 73 flavor compounds.}

After much consideration, Mr B and I took home a small fortune’s worth of luxury chocolates – every one a winner. Here are just a few of the standouts from our haul…

Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Recommendations & Notes:

  • Lavender caramels {Lavender infused caramels topped with Fleur de Sel salt}: So good. Just. So. Good.
  • Maker’s Mark Cups {Filled with pecan butter, dark chocolate and a Maker’s Mark whiskey ganache, and topped with a large caramelized pecan}: Mr B LOVED this one. I can’t tell you what I think about it because, he ate it up too fast.
  • Frangelico Cups {Dark Chocolate cup filled with a creamy, Frangelico infused mousse}: Light and sweet without being cloying, this was one of my favorites. Because Frangelico. And Chocolate. Oh my…
  • Raspberry Ganache {organically grown raspberries, infused in a dark chocolate ganache, covered with more dark chocolate and finished with a raspberry floral design}: Bright, clean raspberry flavor paired perfectly with a smooth dark chocolate.
  • Marionberry Bon Bon {organic Marionberry preserves encased in a dark chocolate shell}: Sublime. As far as I’m concerned, you just cannot beat Marionberries and dark chocolate together. Smooth, well-balanced, and deeply satisfying.

Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

Chocolate doesn't ask silly questions. Chocolate Understands. Click To Tweet

You can find Lillie Belle Farms chocolates at Whole Foods, Made in Oregon stores, and Powell’s among other places; or you can order it online. Or do what we did and include it in your next trip to the Rogue River Valley. Lillie Belle Farms is open seven days a week in Central Point, just northwest of Medford on Highway 99.

Lillie Belle Farms
211 N. Front St.
Central Point, OR 97502
(541) 664-2815
1 (888) 899-2022

Shop Hours:
Monday to Friday: 9–5
Saturday: 9–6
Sunday: 11–5

Disclosure: My first trip to Lillie Belle Farms was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own. 

Lillie Belle Farms founder Jeff Shepherd abides at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate - and that is where the magic happens. Like an electric anthem, Jeff's chocolates are a passionate, vibrant expression of his art. | Lillie Belle Farms, Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor | The Good Hearted Woman

A New Era at Graceland: Elvis Presley’s Memphis

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The newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is vast, eye-opening, humbling, and a must for music lovers of all kinds. 

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

When we were kids growing up in Liverpool, all we ever wanted to be was Elvis Presley. ~ #PaulMcCartney #Beatles Click To Tweet

Tomorrow marks the 40th anniversary of Elvis Presley’s death, and in Memphis this is Elvis Week. The celebration is expected to draw the largest number of visitors ever to Graceland – Presley’s Memphis mansion.

I have to admit, until recently I just didn’t get it. I could not understand why this man – an exceptionally talented entertainer to be sure, but still, just a man – caused so much hype and celebration. I mean, it’s not like he’s the only singer who’s ever touched hearts and made young girls cry, right?

But I learned a few things in Tennessee. First, we visited Studio B and Sun Studios where we experienced Elvis’ beginnings, and the first glimmers began to spark as I understood more about the critical, pivotal role he played in breaking the color barrier in the music world – no small feat in the mid-1950’s. Still, others have broken down social barriers, and they don’t have millions of adoring fans embarking on pilgrimages forty years after they die just to visit their graves. (Jim Morrison notwithstanding.)

It wasn’t until we visited the newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex that things finally fully click. All the hype. All the glorification. All the adoration and idolization. I get it now.

Because it isn’t just about Elvis the Man, or Elvis the Entertainer, or even Elvis the Icon. It’s about something far bigger than that. It’s about how he changed the Music.

"I always felt that someday, somehow, something would happen to change everything for me, and I'd daydream about how it would be. - Elvis Presley | Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

{Elvis is the boy in overalls standing in the top right.}

Many thanks to Graceland and Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex for hosting our visit. This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex opened to the public in March of this year: a 200,000-square-foot, $45 million project across from Presley’s Graceland Mansion. The new Entertainment Complex features fifteen exhibits highlighting the many facets of Elvis’ life (including his early life, his career, his army stint, his cars, his airplanes, and countless items from the family’s personal archives), plus two restaurants, retail stores, and a soundstage. It is an amazing facility, and visitors can easily spend at more than a day exploring.

It was at one of the exhibits – ICONS: The Influence of Elvis Presley – that I gained a completely new perspective on why Elvis is known as The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll. However, before I go on more about the ICONS exhibit and what we took away from it, let me share a few other highlights from Elvis Presley’s Memphis.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum

Elvis is King. Period. - #GeneSimmons #Kiss Click To Tweet

The Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at the Memphis Entertainment Complex gives visitors the opportunity to become completely immersed in Elvis’ career, through hundreds of artifacts, memorabilia, and of course, jumpsuits. {You knew there would be jumpsuits, right?}

Once again – this museum is Vast: I can barely scrap the surface here.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Fun facts

  • Elvis received his first guitar on his 11th birthday, on on January 8, 1946. It was purchased from Tupelo Hardware Company in Tupelo, Mississippi.
  • Elvis cut his first recording, “That’s All Right,” at Sun Studio in Memphis on July 5, 1954.
  • Between 1954 to 1978, Elvis released 108 singles, 30 extended-play singles, 70 albums on RCA Records, four albums on the Pickwick budget label, and five singles on the Sun Records label.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Of his recordings, 150 different albums and singles have been certified gold, platinum or multi-platinum by the Recording Industry Association of America. (Look closely at the image below and you can see some of them hanging on the wall behind the line of white jumpsuits.) He had fourteen Grammy nominations, with three wins – all for gospel recordings.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

In addition to recording, Elvis also made thirty-one movies, arguably the most successful of which were Blue Hawaii, Clambake, King Creole, Jail House Rock, and Viva Las Vegas.

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

In reflection: “Talent is being able to sell something you are feeling.”

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Ever wonder where Paul Stanley and Gene Simmons [of KISS] got their inspiration for all that glam? Hmmm…

Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum at Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit

Elvis had an extensive, impressive car and motorcycle collection, many of which are on display at the EPM Entertainment Complex. This pink Caddy is my favorite 😉

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Pink Cadillac. Do you really need anything else?

There’s nowhere else in the world where you can go from driving a truck to a Cadillac overnight.

– Elvis Presley

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

1956 Cadillac Eldorado  – Originally white. When he bought it, Elvis had the car painted purple and customized the interior.

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

1956 Lincoln Continental Mark II – came with a price tag of $10,000 when it was introduced in 1955, much more than the average $4000 luxury car of the time.

The first car I bought was the most beautiful car I’ve ever seen. It was second hand, but I parked it outside of my hotel the day I got it. I sat up all night, just looking at it.

– Elvis Presley

Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

1960 MG – Used by Elvis in Blue Hawaii and was part of his personal collection.

VIP Exhibit & Lounge

As part of our Elvis Presley’s Memphis Celebration Package, we received two Elvis Entourage VIP Passes, which gave Mr B and I access to the VIP Exhibit and Lounge. (It also gave us front-of-the-line at access at Graceland Mansion {kind of like a Disney FastPass}, access to a special VIP Only exhibit at Graceland Mansion, an extra day pass, and a Keepsake Backstage Pass.)

at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

The VIP area displays some interesting personal items, including Elvis’ sheriff’s badge and ID, his gold Social Security card, and his wallet with a picture of baby Lisa Marie.

at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Yeah, that’s me, hanging out on a purple velvet chaise lounge with Elvis. No biggie.

at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

In addition to the exhibits we’ve touched on here, there are displays highlighting Elvis’ early years (Elvis’ Tupelo), military service (Private Elvis), how country music influenced rock ‘n roll, and much more.

If there hadn't been an Elvis, there wouldn't have been the Beatles. #JohnLennon #Beatles Click To Tweet

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis Presley 

{This was, for so many reasons, my absolute favorite part of the EPM Entertainment Complex exhibits.}

I guess until recently, I’ve tended to look at the development of music in a relatively linear way; one genre evolving and expanding, with new styles emerging from old and moving forward to form some unique sound that eventually comes into its own. However, our trip to Tennessee gave me a much different mental picture; instead of a timeline marching forward with tangents breaking off at particular intersections in time, I now see the progression of music as more of a web of influence; and like a spiders web, in which one fine silk thread, placed just so, can shake the entire system to its core. Elvis was, and continues to be, a single gossamer thread to which so many others are anchored. The ICONS exhibit clarified this idea beautifully.

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Some of the performers who paid tribute to Elvis in the ICONS exhibit were obvious (Bruce Springsteen immediately comes to mind) , but both Mr B and I were genuinely surprised by others.

The first Elvis song I heard was ‘Hound Dog.’ I just heard this voice and it was absolutely, totally in its own place. The voice was confident, insinuating and taking no prisoners. He had those great whoop and diving moments, those sustains that swoop down to the note like a bird of prey. I took all that in. You can hear that all over Led Zeppelin. 

– Robert Plant

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

It was like he came along and whispered some dream in everybody’s ear, and somehow we all dreamed it. 

–  Bruce Springsteen

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

I wasn’t just a fan, I was his brother. He said I was good and I said he was good. We Never argued about that. Elvis was a hard worker, dedicated, and God loved him. I love him and hope to see him again. There’ll never be another like him that soul brother. 

– James Brown

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

If your actions create a legacy that inspires others to dream more, learn more, do more, and become more, then you have accomplished something. Elvis did that and more for me and so many others. 

– Dolly Parton

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

Before Elvis, everything was in black and white. Then came Elvis.... Zoom, glorious technicolor. ~ #KeithRichards Click To Tweet

And yes, even adorable Memphis native JT chimed in…

ICONS: The Influence of Elvis at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman

When you come from Memphis, music is in your blood. From the blues artist to Elvis Presley, they have had a major influence on my music. I admire Elvis, always have. He combined all of these different types of music and made it one. 

– Justin Timberlake

No one name says more than his... Elvis. It roars while others whisper. ~ #PaulStanley #Kiss Click To Tweet

Whether you are a fan or just a music lover, a day at the Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is so worth your time. Even if you are a lifelong fan like Mr B, you will come away with a new appreciation for Elvis’ life and contributions; and if you are simply a music lover like me, it will likely change your perspective on The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll and his place in music history forever.

Click here for ticketing Information 

Did any of the tributes in the ICONS exhibit surprise you?

Disclosure: Many thanks to Graceland and Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex for hosting our visit. All images here are mine, taken and used with permission from Graceland/Elvis Presley Enterprises, Inc. for use on this website only. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman
Presley Motors Automobile Exhibit at the Elvis Presley's Memphis Entertainment Complex | The Good Hearted Woman


Why You Will Love “The Guest House at Graceland”

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From first impression to last, the vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is a fusion of classic elegance and modern luxury – welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.

Shoes - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Many thanks to the The Guest House at Graceland for hosting our stay. This post may contain affiliate links.

Mr B was over the moon when I told him that I had arranged for us to stay at The Guest House at Graceland. “You mean, we’re going to stay on Elvis’ property?” he asked.

“Yep. Just a block down and right across the street from Graceland Mansion.” He beamed. Almost glowed. I’ve known this man since I was fifteen years old, and I knew that just visiting Graceland was already overflowing his bucket big-time – he’d never even considered that he might get to stay there.

As for me, I wasn’t so sure… secretly, I didn’t know if I could endure (what I imagined would be) all those rhinestones and black velvet paintings in one place, even for Mr B. As it turned out, we were both in for a refreshing surprise.

Exterior - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Driving through the security gates at The Guest House at Graceland, all of my preconceived notions about the place just sort of fell away. From first impression to last, The Guest House is a classic, dignified celebration of Elvis Presley and his legacy.

When Elvis had friends and family visit Graceland, he would have them stay at a hotel down the street. He would have been thrilled to have had his own guest house where they could stay so close by. Lisa and I, and our entire family, are excited that visitors from around the world can now experience our unique resort hotel — The Guest House at Graceland.

– Priscilla Presley

Front Entrance - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

With much of the design overseen by Priscilla Presley herself, Memphis’ newest luxury hotel reflects Elvis’ personal style. The vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is one of classic elegance and modern luxury – welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.

And not a single velvet painting in sight.

Hall - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

I fell in love with the symmetry of The Guest House halls: I found them to be very calming and reassuring.

The lobby is stunning, filled with instantly recognizable close-up images that evoke the spirit of Elvis: cuffs, sunglasses, popped collars. Note the high-backed lobby seats, specifically designed to echo those iconic Elvis collars!

Foyer - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

This picture totally does not do justice to the opulence and elegance of The Guest House lobby.

Flowers - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

There are subtle touches of Elvis everywhere, from the understated “EP” wall sconces that line the halls to the close-up jumpsuit details of the wall art. Even the signs that tell you what floor you’re on are iconically Elvis.

6th Floor - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The Guest House at Graceland has 450 guest rooms on six floors, as well as a number of uniquely-themed VIP suites. (Lamentably, Mr B and I did not get to stay in one of the VIP suites. Maybe next time 😉)

Our room was clean, comfortable, surprisingly spacious – and notably not overly “Elvisy.” (I personally LOVED the Jail House Rock image on our wall!) The bed was extremely comfortable, with luxury linens and a kitten-soft throw blanket that practically dared me to stop petting it.

The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Elvis movies, concert footage, and specials are available on room TVs at all times, as well as a 24-hour live-stream of the entrance to Graceland. Free Wi-fi, free airport shuttle service, and shuttle service to Graceland Mansion and the newly opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex is also included in your stay (or you can make the five minute walk on foot). They provide free shuttle service to Downtown Memphis/Beale Street as well.

The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

But as nice as it is to have soft sheets and free shuttle service, we all know that sometimes it’s the little things that really elevate a hotel experience. Some of the amenities that Mr B and I particularly appreciated include the in-room Keurig (Mr B has got to have his coffee!) and the larger-than-average naturally-sourced luxury bath products. (You can buy full-size items in the hotel gift store.) The dual-head rainfall shower was a big plus too.

Shampoo - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Keurig - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Clearly, great consideration was taken in designing and appointing The Guest House at Graceland, from the carefully chosen color scheme to the cushions in the guest rooms.

Details - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

I’m one of those people who touches everything, and with all the textures on the The Guest House walls, I was in heaven.

The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The Guest House at Graceland has been open less than a year and from our experience, they still have a few minor kinks to smooth out. For example, during our stay a system glitch set fire alarms off all over the hotel at about 1:15am. (Never a good thing, especially for bone-weary travelers.) But… Life. Plus, it gave us a good story. Overall our stay was pleasant, relaxing, and truly memorable.

The service we received at The Guest House was, in all cases, first-rate. We were especially impressed with our hotel attendant, Aramis. (Yes, like the Musketeer 😉 )

Aramis - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

I don’t know what Aramis’ actual title at the hotel is. I asked him once, and he replied, “Everything. I do everything.” And apparently, he does. When we first arrived at The Guest House at Graceland, it was Aramis who carried our luggage to our room and introduced us to its amenities. He likewise acted as our concierge during our stay, and directed us to some great local blues and barbecue destinations. At one point, he even served as our shuttle driver.

In every instance, Aramis was gracious, amiable, and proficient. (And if by chance our review has any weight with hotel administration/powers-that-be, we encourage them to give this young man a raise and a promotion: he is an both an exceptional representative of The Guest House and a true ambassador of Memphis hospitality.)

Jumpsuit Hall - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The hotel throughout is, in a word, Beautiful. There are a number of lovely common areas, as well as a ball room, meeting rooms, and other large event spaces.

Spaces - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

One of the highlights for Elvis fans at The Guest House at Graceland is the full-scale replica of the Grand Staircase at Graceland, complete with the blue curtain at the top of the stairs, the mirrored wall and the chandelier, just like at the entrance foyer of Graceland.

Staircase - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

PRO TIP: This is a great spot to take that commemorative Graceland photo! (I have no idea how we forgot to do this while we were there.)

As part of our all-inclusive Elvis Presley’s Memphis Celebration Package, we were treated to a wonderful breakfast each morning at Delta’s Kitchen, one of the two full-service restaurants at the hotel. (Note that breakfast is not included with the regular room rate at this time.)

Orange Juice - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The service at Delta’s Kitchen was friendly and efficient, and the food was all tasty and satisfying. The breakfast buffet offered a broad variety of choices, from fresh fruit to homemade biscuits and gravy to the biggest tray of bacon I’ve ever seen. Made-to-order omelets were also available upon request.

Breakfast - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

In addition to Delta’s Kitchen, The Guest House at Graceland offers a number of other fine and casual dining choices.  The Lobby Lounge is a great place to kick back and relax with your favorite beverage while you nosh on selections from their a la carte light dining menu.

Happy Hour 2 - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Happy Hour specials are available daily from 4pm until 6pm at the Lobby Lounge.

Happy Hour - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

EP’s Bar & Grill, a Memphis-inspired setting with lots of Southern flair, serves contemporary interpretations of Elvis’ favorite food and beverages.

EP BAR & Grill - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

If you’re not up for a sit-down meal, the Shake Rattle & Go offers grab-&-go favorites to get your day started, including coffee, espresso and delicious baked treats. Open all day, it also features freshly made sandwiches, salads, and snacks.

Shake, Rattle - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

On-site entertainment options include everything from foosball by the pool to daily showings of Elvis’ movies in the hotel’s full-size, 464-seat movie theater.

Foosball by the Pool - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The outdoor pool and hot tub are open seasonally. The hotel also offers a 24-hour access fitness room.

Pool - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Lounging by the Pool - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

The area surrounding The Guest House feels as though it could use some serious renovation, but once inside hotel security gates, the grounds are beautifully attended, and safety and security abounds. Parking was included with our stay in our Celebration Package, and the entrance gate and all parking areas are manned 24/7 by security attendants. (Without the package, self-parking currently costs $10 per day, with valet parking available for an additional fee.)

Hot Tub by the pool - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

If you are an Elvis fan heading to Memphis, this is the place to stay – no question; and even if you’re not a big Elvis devotee, if you’re heading to Memphis and plan to go to Graceland, this is a beautiful, memorable destination.

Guest room rates are very reasonable for a luxury hotel of this caliber, varying between approximately $127 (the current deal on TripAdvisor) to $249 a night for standard rooms, depending on the night and the season.

3600 Elvis Presley Blvd
Memphis, Tennessee 38116
901.443.3000
The Guest House at Graceland

Disclosure: Many thanks to the The Guest House at Graceland for hosting our stay. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Coming up next: The Newly Opened Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex

Bus Back - The Guest House at Graceland | The Good Hearted Woman

Why You Will LOVE The Guest House at Graceland - From first impression to last, the vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is a fusion of classic elegance and modern luxury - welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.
Why You Will LOVE The Guest House at Graceland - From first impression to last, the vibe at The Guest House at Graceland is a fusion of classic elegance and modern luxury - welcoming, refined, and unique as Elvis himself.

Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe}

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Eat it in Nashville or make it at home. Either way, Nashville Hot Chicken is fiery, spicy, crispy, burn-your-tongue-but-can’t-stop-yourself, eat-it-’til-your-buttons-pop good!

Hattie B's Hot Chicken, Nashville | The Good Hearted Woman

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

I love fried chicken. I don’t eat it often, but I love it. Back when I was a kid, my BFF’s Gramma Barbara kind of adopted me. She was fun and irreverent, and to this day I love her like my own. Anyway, Grandma B made ⋆ THE BEST ⋆ southern fried chicken I’ve ever eaten, or ever hope to eat, in my life. Tender, juicy, crispy, and seasoned just right, Gramma B’s chicken was so finger-licking delicious that it tasted like it had been fried up in heaven. It was Perfect.

Gramma B will be 95 in a few weeks, so she’s not cooking much these days. Here she is standing the kitchen where she made the last batch of her heavenly fried chicken.

Gramma Barbara tried to teach me to make fried chicken a couple of times, and I think I got the basics down fine, but I could never make it quite as good as she did. I don’t know if was her skillet, or the lard (of course it was the lard) or some other sublime combination of environmental and mystical factors, but her fried chicken was absolutely divine and mine was, at best, pretty darn good.

In my quest to scratch my fried chicken itch, I’ve ordered fried chicken at nearly every place in Portland that serves it, and while some turn out a very decent plate, not even Screen Door – Portland’s refined Southern restaurant and brunch mecca, where the lines go around the block and the chicken and waffles are stacked to the ceiling – not even that rings that elusive Gramma B-worthy, chicken-fried bell for me. There’s always something missing.

Then we went to Tennessee. Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken is literally the first chicken I’ve eaten in at least twenty years that even comes close to Grandma B’s fried chicken – with one important caveat: instead tasting like chicken sent from heaven, it tastes more like the devil himself cooked up a batch of fried chicken on his day off. It’s fiery, spicy, crispy, burn-your-tongue-but-can’t-stop-yourself, eat-it-’til-your-buttons-pop good. It is heaven and hell in a one transcendent bite.

⋆ If you love Spicy and Fried Chicken, are traveling through Nashville, and can only eat one meal, make it THIS ⋆

Nashville Hot Chicken is a hyper-regional specialty with a long, colorful, sordid history involving a philandering man, a jealous woman hell-bent on revenge, and a whole lot ‘a hot pepper juice. It is a finely-woven tale that I simply can’t do justice and still keep this post under a couple thousand words, so I’m not even going to try. (Plus, I don’t need to, because The Bitter Southerner has done a bang-up job telling the story for us: when you have a minute or ten, I strongly encourage you to read this great post about how Nashville Hot Chicken really came be!)

While Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack is the acknowledged home of the original Nashville Hot Chicken, when we were in town, we opted to go to relative newcomer Hattie B’s Hot Chicken instead. Reviews said that the lines can get really long here (at the west Nashville location) but we arrived relatively late for a weekday – around 8:30 pm – and had hardly any wait at all.

We ordered two small plates (which turned out to be a ton of food!). Each plate came with a chicken quarter (dark meat for Mr B, light for me) and two sides. Mr B got baked beans and I ordered the potato salad, and we both got coleslaw.  Our chicken arrived very quickly, stacked in a basket between the traditional slice of white bread, topped with a dill pickle. It only took me one bite to know that Hattie B’s Hot Chicken was absolutely amazing. Possibly addictive.

Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman

I needed that recipe. 

When we got back to Oregon our hotel room (like I waited until we went home 😉 ), one of the first things I did was search to see what I could find on Hot Chicken, and was absolutely thrilled to find Hattie B’s recipe right here, in Lee Brian Schrager’s cookbook Fried & True: More than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides. Well, you can bet that it took me less than a Tennessee minute to order it.(Which, come to think of it, is probably substantially longer than a New York minute, but still…)

When my copy of Fried & True arrived, I opened it to find the pages bursting with great recipes, valuable tips and cooking methods, personal stories, and a true love of fried chicken.

⋆ If you love Spicy and Fried Chicken and can only make one meal, make it THIS ⋆

Total props and credit for this Hattie B’s Nashville Hot Chicken recipe go to Fried & True author Lee Brian Schrager. The ingredients list in the recipe below come directly from the book; however, the directions have been rewritten.

Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman

After the fry, you have the wet application. I take some soybean oil from the fryer, get it really hot, and add the dry rub into that fat. The heat activates all the spices. You want it hot enough that when you baste it over the fried chicken, the skin stays nice and crispy.

Matt Duckor, The Secret Behind Hattie B’s Legendary Hot Chicken

Note that the following recipe is gauged as Medium Hot. Adjust spices according to your own tastes. 

Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman
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Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe}

Cuisine Southern
Author Lee Brian Schrager, Fried & True

Ingredients

For the Dry Brine

  • 1 whole chicken 3 pounds, washed, patted dry, and cut into quarters
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

For the Dip

  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot sauce

For the Dredge

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt
  • Vegetable oil for frying

For the Spicy Coating

  • 1/2 hot frying oil or hot lard
  • 3 tablespoons cayenne pepper
  • 1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Garnish

  • Dill pickle slices
  • White bread optional

Instructions

Step 1: The Dry-Brine

  1. In a medium bowl, toss together the chicken pieces, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight. (Up to 24 hours)

Step 2: The Dip & Dredge

  1. Whisk together the milk, eggs, and hot sauce in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the four and salt.
  2. Drag the chicken through the flour mixture, coating evenly. Dip the floured chicken in the milk mixture, and then once again in the flour mixture. Shake off exceess between each step.

Step 3: The Fry

  1. Heat vegetable oil in a deep skillet or deep fryer until it is between 350° - 375° F. The oil needs to be deep enough for the chicken to fully submerge.
  2. The temperature will drop when you add the chicken. Keep the oil at 300° to 325° F while the chicken fries. (See NOTES)
  3. Working in batches, use tongs to carefully add the chicken to the hot oil and fry until crispy. (15-17 minutes for breast quarters; 18-20 minutes for leg quarters.) Remove chicken from oil and allow to drain on wire rack.

Step 4: The Spicy Coating

  1. Ladle hot frying oil into a heatproof bowl. Whisk in cayenne, brown sugar, and spices. Baste the spice mixture over the hot fried chicken.

Step 5: The Serve

  1. If you want to go traditional, serve your Hot Chicken up over a slice of white bread. Garnish with dill pickle slices.

Recipe Notes

IMPORTANT: The oil needs to maintain an optimal temperature of 325° while the chicken is frying. However, the oil temp will drop at least 25° when you add the chicken, so initially you need to heat the oil up to about 350°.

It’s important to maintain the correct temperature for frying chicken of 325° F. If the temperature of oil in the pan drops down below 300°, the chicken will begin to absorb the cooking oil, resulting in greasy, soggy chicken. If it rises above about 340°, the chicken will cook too quickly on the outside, and not get done in the middle. When fried at the correct temperature, the chicken will come out golden brown, having absorbed very little oil.

You can read more about Nashville Hot Chicken’s rough and tumble history, and get some great recipes in the deal in Hot Chicken Cookbook: The Fiery History & Red-Hot Recipes of Nashville’s Beloved Bird.
What is something that your parents or grandparents cooked in your childhood that you miss now? Let me know in the comments.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!


Hattie B's Nashville Hot Chicken {Recipe} | The Good Hearted Woman

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