Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa: Your Perfect Oregon Coast Getaway

Head Out. Stay In. Whatever you choose, you’ll discover your perfect Oregon coastal getaway at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City.

Sunset at Haystack Rock, Pacific City, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Pacific City sunsets can be spectacular. {Image taken 2.25.2017}

When I was a little girl, I lived on the Oregon coast for five glorious summers. One of my most enduring memories from that time is of standing on the edge of the world, looking out into the great vastness of the Pacific Ocean and wondering if somewhere out there, there was a little girl on the other side of the water looking out and wondering about me.

Last month, Mr B and I were invited to stay at the newly opened Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City, Oregon, and as I sat outside on our room’s lovely little private balcony enjoying a few moments of splendid solitude, I found myself once again looking out into that great unknown, and listening to the wind race and the waves crash, and remembering those two little girls an ocean and a lifetime away.

^{Many thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. This post may contain affiliate links.}

Headlands Coastal Lodge: Unpretentious Luxury & Oregon Hospitality

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa is a stunningly beautiful destination, expressly designed as a place to relax, recharge, restore, and rediscover. From the moment you walk through the massive glass and wood front doors, you will find yourself surrounded by warm hospitality, rich wood finishings, and unpretentious luxury.

Located adjacent to Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area in Pacific City, Headlands Coastal Lodge has been twenty years in the making. Owners Mary Jones and Jeff Shons spent those years designing and redesigning the lodge, with the goal of creating a luxury destination that takes full advantage of the Oregon Coast’s rugged natural beauty, and highlights the incredible views of Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock.

You can find the personal influences of Mary Jones and Jeff Schons throughout the lodge. For example, the “Haystack Rock Wall“ showcases a rotating collection of the work by local artists – all featuring the iconic rock. Local art lines the halls and adorns room walls as well.

Mary, who teaches cooking classes to lodge visitors, keeps a kitchen garden just off this gorgeous, hardwood hall.

“Stay In”

Each and every one of the 33 oceanfront rooms at Headlands comes with a balcony and an unobstructed view of Haystack Rock (the Pacific City one, not the Cannon Beach one). {Editorial: As a lifetime Oregonian, I have never understood why a state with nearly thirty names for rain cannot come up with two unique names for two geographically distinct monolithic rocks adjacent to the beach. C’mon, people!}

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa | The Good Hearted Woman

The view from our balcony. [Room 111]

Uniquely, Pacific City is one of the few places in Oregon where you can drive right out onto the beach. Automobile beach access is literally right next door to Headlands, making it particularly appealing for those who may have mobility challenges. Mr B and I are seriously considering bringing my 92-year old mom for a stay so that she can enjoy the beach she loves so much one more time.

Mattress firmness is always a personal issue. That being said, Mr B and I sleep on a lot of hotel mattresses, so I can say with some authority that the mattresses at Headlands are some of the most comfortable we’ve ever slept on.

Mr B and I were absolutely fascinated with the glass-walled shower in our room. The cast iron soaking tub is comfortably sloped and long enough to stretch out in, and generously accommodating for both solo or companion bathing. One of us (not naming names or anything) took both a shower and a bath in one night!

Let’s take a closer look at this shower set-up, shall we? I mean, this is so cool! You can stand in the shower and look out onto the beach – while you shower!!

Our room came with a host of luxury amenities. Mr B and I were both intrigued with the high-tech “Do Not Disturb/Make Up This Room” door card system. To alert resort staff that you are away and your room is ready to be made up, guests need only press “Heading Out” on a switch just inside their room’s entry door to light up a small green “go” light on the room number placard in the hall outside. Conversely, pressing “Staying In” lights up a red “stop” light, letting staff know that you’d like some privacy.

Additional room amenities include a gas fireplace, Bonavita brewing system and freshly ground coffee, Smith tea service and tea kettle, bluetooth lantern speaker, in-room safe, iPad for requesting services, and complimentary WiFi. Well-placed bike hooks and surfboard racks can also be found in every room. In fact, I couldn’t think of a single thing they forgot to include, but if I had, I’m pretty sure someone would have gotten it for us!

As if there weren’t already enough to love about this place, the entire lodge, as well as many of the guest rooms, are dog-friendly!

Cackling Geese ~ Spirit of Headlands

Everywhere you turn at Headlands, you will see the subtle influence of the cackling geese: soaring gracefully across the wrought-iron front door pulls, the front entry desk, the room placards and restaurant menus; even the art on the guest room walls. The cackling geese not only provide a striking logo image, but offer a metaphor for the spirit that Headlands espouses: rugged, beautiful, and ready for adventure. We found the background on these exceptional birds quite interesting.

Pacific City is the only wintering spot in the world of the Semidi Island Aleutian Cackling Geese. Each year, the geese fly south more than 2,000 miles from their small Alaskan nesting islands to Oregon’s North Coast. Every evening during their annual Pacific City stay, they leave the grassy pastures in the Nestucca Valley and soar across a mile of ocean to roost on Haystack Rock—the same towering monolith that Headlands guests can see from their rooms and cottage.

~ Headlands Coastal Lodge

Headlands offers guests surprises around every corner. The stunning “live metal” in the image above can be found in the main lobby’s huge, gender-neutral restroom. {The picture simply doesn’t do it justice.}

Each of the lodge’s three floors also has a “honor pantry,” well-stocked with top-shelf snacks and local favorites, like as Tillamook Ice Cream pints and One Fork Farm Caramels. (Oh. My. Goodness. Seriously, if you haven’t tried One Fork Farm Caramels yet, do so immediately! They are amazing! ➢ Not a sponsored plug – just way too good to not share.)

“Head Out”

Most luxury hotels offer complementary concierge service, but Headlands, embracing the adventurous Pacific Northwest spirit, takes the idea to the next level. “Adventure Coaches” help guests plan specialized outdoor adventures – everything from kayaking, clamming, and cooking classes to hiking, biking, and beach bonfires. (Don’t worry if you didn’t bring a bike: you can get a loaner in the lobby.) They’ll even pack you a lunch from the hotel restaurant!

Tidepools Spa & Wellness Center

Whether you’re in the mood for a good workout, a relaxing soak, or just some quality “me-time,” Headlands in-house spa and wellness center can accommodate your needs.

Tidepools offers both indoor and outdoor exercise options, including a well-stoked weight room, Pilates classes, beach yoga, and surf lessons. (Yes folks, we really do surf here in Oregon.)

If you’re in the mood to relax, you can get a massage or facial, or take a soak in the outdoor hot tub and enjoy the striking ocean view.

Meridian

Meridian at Headlands offers guests a Pacific Northwest-focused menu in a casually elegant setting. Ingredients are locally sourced from the ocean, local farmers, and Mary’s Herb Garden. (I’ll be posting more about Meridian, as well as a recipe from Executive Chef Andrew Garrison, in upcoming posts.) Briefly, the meals we had there were fresh, well-composed, and beautifully presented.

Finally, as far as Oregon coastal accommodations go, Headlands has a decidedly high-end price-tag, but Mr B and I both agree that it is well worth it. Headlands Coastal Lodge would be a perfect destination for a special occasion or well-earned getaway… or when you just need to stare out into the ocean for hours on a windy winter evening and wonder who’s on the other side of the world.

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa

33000 Cape Kiwanda Drive
Pacific City, OR 97135
(503) 483-3000

^{Disclosure: Thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon}

March 15 By Renée ♥ 9 Comments

Visitors to Orenco Woods Nature Park can choose from wide variety of activities, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, picnicking, and enjoying the native wildlife. (Oh, and hangin’ out with giant Twig People. Don’t about forget them.)

Last weekend was absolutely Bea-u-tiful here in the Pacific Northwest, so Mr B and I decided to go and explore Orenco Woods Nature Park, a new westside neighborhood park that has been getting a lot of local press attention lately. Here’s just one reason for all the buzz…

But I’ll get back to Hungry Twig Guy later. First, let me take you on a tour around the park.

Orenco Woods Nature Park is a large neighborhood park located in Hillsboro, Oregon, about 30 minutes west of Portland. The 42-acre park is situated on the site of a former nine-hole golf course, between Orchard Park upstream and Noble Woods Park downstream. Rock Creek flows through the park, and Rock Creek Trail snakes through it.

There is a big, open playground near the entrance to the park, with restrooms and drinking fountains for visitors, as well as a large covered picnic area.

This concrete stream channel was one of my favorite features of the playground – it runs downhill alongside one long side of the playground, with strategically placed water pumps set along the “stream bed” that allow kids to feed into the stream with running water during warm weather months, with the water pouring back into Rock Creek after it runs its course. The playground also features sand areas, logs, a large net climber and swings.

The “real” Orenco Apple is a high-quality dessert apple that was introduce to the world c.1840 by the Oregon Nursery Company. The apple is prized for its tender, crisp and juicy flesh, and sweet, piquant flavor.

Rock Creek Trail - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

“The Orenco Apple”

Malcolm McDonald House {Est. 1910}

The McDonald House, which sets inside Orenco Woods Nature Park near the park entrance, was built by Oregon Nursery Company Co-founder Malcolm McDonald. Mr. McDonald erected the sprawling Craftsman-style home in 1912, and his business then sold smaller lots to its employees, who built their own houses nearby.

I had some brief contact with the McDonald house back in the early 2000’s when one of my Girl Scout Troops (I had four) did some volunteer work there. At that time, the house was being used as a shelter and home for young, single mothers. The shelter closed in 2012 when the organization that ran it moved to another location.

Despite the fences, I was glad to see that Hillsboro is taking steps to restore it to its former glory. Planners have proposed exhibiting Orenco’s history in the house and renting it out for private events such as weddings.

In 2015, the McDonald House was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Walking the Rock Creek Nature Trail

A segment of the paved, ADA-accessible Rock Creek Trail runs through the park, connecting to Orchard Park and to the Rock Creek Trailhead at Rock Creek Boulevard just north of Highway 26. You can also walk the much shorter loop around the Orenco Woods Nature Park using the park’s graveled Habitat Trail. Bicycles and on-leash dogs are allowed on the paved trails, but not on the habitat trails [wood chip and gravel].

Arched Bridge - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

This is one of my favorite pictures of the day. The little two boys on the bridge were doing their darnest to beat their Dad racing across the bridge, and all three were having so much fun!

At certain times of day, the bridge cast some pretty interesting shadows.

Orenco Woods Nature Park offers visitors a variety of experiences: rolling hills, open meadows, riparian habitat, and forested areas that are home to a variety of birds and wildlife.

As we walked through the park, Mr B reminisced about the times he had golfed there in years past. “That course was always so wet. I remember that there was a par-three hole where you teed off from a box uphill to a mounded green below. When it was rainy, the green would be entirely surrounded by water.” No wonder the golf course didn’t last too long!

Now that we’ve made it around the park, let’s circle back to that giant face made out of twigs…

Woven Willow and Red Twig Dogwood Branch Sculptures

This guy is just one of seven 18-foot tall faces that guard a line of old growth Doug firs along the stretch of main path that runs from the park entrance to the large arched bridge.

Created by artist Patrick Dougherty (along with a battalion of volunteers), the interactive art installation is constructed entirely from locally obtained twigs and branches.

The piece was initially inspired by masks and totems of Northwest indigenous peoples; however, inspirations changed along the way. Says Dougherty, “they morphed during the building process into caricatures of human surprise. The arrangement of elements corrals the trees and creates among them a room of ancient tree trunks, thick and luxurious. Perhaps this invitation to rub shoulders with the craggy bark of such oldsters is the best part of the work. At the last minute, a hint of the heads of Easter Island statuary emerged as we fitted each head with a suitable hat.”

More than 150 volunteers contributed over 1000 hours to create this monumental, interactive sculpture. [Click here to watch the Stickwork Project Time Lapse Video on YouTube.]

In addition to hiking the Rock Creek Trail and hanging out with giant Twig People, visitors can choose from wide variety of activities at the park, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, and picnicking. Or kick back and enjoy the native wildlife: great blue heron, beavers, red-tail hawks, black-tailed deer, and more all make their homes along Rock Creek and in the adjacent wetlands.

Visitor Information

Orenco Woods Nature Park

7100 NE Birch Street

Hillsboro, Oregon

Orenco Woods Field Guide [Oregon Metro]

Orenco Woods Nature Park is open from sunrise to sunset seven days a week.
The park has restrooms and a large picnic area, as well as a number of smaller, more informal gathering spots.
Significant portions of the park are wheelchair accessible, including the Rock Creek Trail.
Pets are allowed on the Rock Creek Trail portions of the park, but must be on-leash at all times and are not allowed anywhere else at the park.
Don’t bring drones, model planes, model boats and other remote-controlled vehicles – they are not allowed. (Neither is hunting, but do I really need to tell you not to hunt in a park filled with dogs and people?) However, you are welcome to do all the geocaching your little heart desires!

Please leave a comment below! 🏞 What unique parks are in your neighborhood?

What We Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival {Buffalo, Wyoming}

February 28 By Renée ♥ 12 Comments

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

The only real connection to the North American Basque community that I personally have is an impossibly thin thread that runs from me through the amazing woman who taught me to ride horses to the Basque man she was married to for many years.

Rena was a former Miss Rodeo Oregon and beautiful beyond words. I was nine. She taught me to races barrels and jump hay bales and ride faster than the wind. She later married a man from the Nevada Basque community, and once while traveling with my parents to Arizona, we took a side trip to see her. One thing that still stands out to me about our visit – besides seeing Rena and her new baby – was the vast, arid landscape of the Nevada range and the half an hour we had to wait on the dusty dirt road while the largest herd of sheep I have ever seen passed across in front of us.

Ever since that long-ago visit, I’ve had a mild fascination with the unique, mysterious Basque community. So when Mr B and I motored into Buffalo, Wyoming last summer for lunch and saw the “North American Basque Festival” banners hanging across Main Street, I was intrigued and excited to see what was happening.

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basques are an “indigenous ethnic group,” unique unto themselves, and may be the oldest ethnic group in Europe. Neither French nor Spanish, their homeland lies between the base of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, comprised of seven traditional provinces that bridge the border between Spain and France. Likewise, their unique language – which they call Euskara – is like no other language spoken in Europe – or the world.

When I was doing research for this post, I tried to find out how approximately how many people of Basque heritage now live in North America, but reported numbers varied wildly – from less than 100,000 to over a million. What I can tell you is most Basques in North America are descended from 19th century emigrants, and large Basque communities can be found across the western United States and in some Canadian provinces.

Basques began moving to Wyoming in the early 1900s to herd sheep, and the Buffalo continues to celebrate its long history with the Basque community. A small flock of bronze sheep and a bronze herding dog on Main Street remind visitors of Buffalo’s long history with the Basque community. As the plaque that accompanies the bronzes reads:

The heritage of the Basque people runs deep in the history of Johnson County [Wyoming]. Coming from a mountainous, agrarian culture in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, they took to the open range of Wyoming, bringing colorful traditions and a knowledge of raising sheep. They depended on their dogs, often Border Collies as companions and helper to protect and herd the sheep. The Basque farmers remain influential throughout this community to the present day.

Basques in the North America have embraced their new home, even as they continue to honor their unique heritage. One of the ways they do this is through the many gatherings and festivals that are held in small towns across “Basque country.”

The North American Basque Festival, sponsored by the North American Basque Organization [NABO], has been held annually since 1979, with the location rotating each year. (Buffalo, Wyoming will host the festival and convention again again in 2021.) The three-day festival includes traditional food, music, and dancing; and featured artisans and vendors all celebrating the Basque culture.

If you happen to be a knitter, crocheter, or spinner, you will love attending a Basque Festival! There were skeins and skeins of wool roving and beautiful, hand-dyed yarns for purchase everywhere!

The line for barbecued lamb was ridiculous, stretching for well over a block, to the great disappointment to Mr B. (I don’t eat lamb, so no tears here. It did smell delicious though.)

(Hungry for a traditional Basque meal? Try out this recipe for Basque Braised Chicken With Peppers [Chicken Basquaise].)

Everywhere we turned we saw lauburu motifs. The lauburu (or Basque cross) is a symbol of the Basque Country and the unity of the Basque people.

Basque Sheep Wagons

The coolest thing we saw at the Festival was the collection of “Karro kampos,’ or traditional Basque sheep wagons. Basque sheep wagons, which we learned are an invention of the American West, reached their height of popularity in the 1910’s. They continue to be used by some sheep herders, particularly in Idaho, even today.

No two wagons that we saw were exactly the same; however, as we peeked into each one, we noticed certain consistencies. For example, the door was always at the front of the wagon, and the bed was always at the back. Most vintage wagons (like the one below) had a wash-pan hanging on the door, a wood stove to the left of the door (going in), and a stove pipe coming out the top.

I love the detailing on this little cast iron wood stove. This wagon has a stove-pipe popping out the top.

Other wagons had more contemporary interiors, with gas stoves, up-to-date cabinetry, and tiled floors.

This wagon – proudly displayed by the 4th generation Basque family of George Etchemenoy – was a work of art. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship on the wagon, along with the matching child-sized wagon and wooden tractor, was outstanding.

Check out the turquoise inlay on the front of the wooden tractor.

If you have the opportunity to attend a Basque festival, we enthusiastically encourage you to go – you will have a great time and probably learn something in the process! Visit the North American Basque Organization website to learn more.

Take a Romantic Winter Getaway to Hood River, Oregon

February 22 By Renée ♥ 10 Comments

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Every year for Valentine’s Day, Mr B and I take a little romantic getaway. It doesn’t matter if the holiday falls in the middle of the week or on a weekend – we always take at least one day off and head for a quiet destination, usually close to home. This year, as we are wont to do, we headed for the Columbia Gorge.

We left for our getaway after work on a Tuesday afternoon, and drove up to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, arriving well after dark. Stepping into the lobby, we were promptly greeted by an amazingly friendly, enthusiastic hotel employee named Rick, who would act as our concierge, bell-hop, elevator operator, ice-bucket filler, doorman, and hotel historian during our stay.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel – once known as the “Waldorf of the West” – was built by Portland businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson in 1921. The elegant hotel has a rich history (complete with lots of ghost stories!), and at one time hosted such early film icons as Clara Bow, Rudolph Valentino, and Shirley Temple, as well as dignitaries like Presidents Roosevelt and Coolidge.

Our third floor King room was lovely, with a 180° view of the Columbia River, a large bathroom (by 1921 standards), and an little electric fireplace. Having stayed in a standard room at the Columbia Gorge Hotel the distant past, I can tell you with confidence that our King room was far superior to a standard room. Most notably, it was about twice as big: the space allotted for a standard in 1921 is what realtors like to call “charming” and “cozy.” The King room we stayed was about the same size as a contemporary standard mid-range hotel room.

Travel Tip: Weekday rates at the Columbia Gorge Hotel are often literally half that of weekend rates. If you can find the time during the week, it’s quite a deal!

The next morning when room service delivered our breakfast, we discovered that we had ordered twice as much food as we needed! Our breakfast croissants were huge, and each one came with a generous serving of O’Brien potatoes and an adorable little airplane-size bottle of ketchup. Everything arrived fresh, warm, and delicious. No worries about leftovers, either – after we finished eating, we popped our leftovers into the little room fridge to save for a midnight snack and set out to plan our day.

Mama Bear - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Any other Mama Bears out there? 💚 {Sculpture by Ann Fleming; part of Hood River BIG ART Walking Tour}

We had a loose plan to spend the day touring and tasting at a few of the wineries near Hood River, so we started our tour in downtown Hood River, where we stopped in at a cool little espresso bar called Ground to enjoy a warm beverage while charted out our route. Being there on a Wednesday in the middle of winter made our choices very easy – only three of the fifteen or so wineries around the city of Hood River were open for us to visit.

Our first stop was Cathedral Ridge Winery, one of the only vineyards in Hood River with tasting room hours every day of the week year-round. The winery is located high above the Columbia on the west end of Hood River, with sweeping views of Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the south west. We spent the better part of an hour in the Cathedral Ridge tasting room, where we were greeted warmly and treated like old friends. Pours for our tasting were generous, and extra varieties were introduced as we discussed our preferences with our attentive and knowledgeable host.

After we finished our tasting and purchased a few bottles to take home, we wandered outside to enjoy a walk around the grounds, where wooden benches and outdoor tables set up for picnickers dot the property. The middle of February was a little too chilly for a picnic though, so we instead opted for a quick selfie before we got back in the car.

Me & Me B - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Look! We took a selfie!

We next ventured a little farther out into the country, where we found the Phelps Creek tasting room, which like Cathedral Ridge is open daily and year-round. The tasting room is located on the beautiful Hood River Golf Course, the features wines produced from nearby Estate-grown grapes. This small boutique winery focuses on estate grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; annually producing 5,000 cases total of all varietals.

One of the things Mr B and I like best about going out with just a tissue-paper plan is you just never know who or what will happen to surprise you. While we were visiting with the host at Phelps Creek, tasting room associate and sports photographer Brian Robb walked in, sat down at the bar and introduced himself. We were in no hurry, so we spent the next half hour chatting with Brian about some of the events he has shot around the world; in particular his experiences photographing World Skiing Racing Championships and the Olympic Winter Games. We thoroughly enjoyed both the company and the conversation at Phelps Creek.

(I have always to laugh at myself when I meet “action” photographers – I can barely get food to hold still for a good shot. Moving targets are usually way beyond my photography skillset.)

After finishing at Phelps Creek, we made the short drive back into town and grabbed a late lunch at The Trillium Cafe in downtown Hood River before stopping at our last tasting room – Stave & Stone.

Esthetically, Stave & Stone is the poshest of the three tasting rooms we visited, and the newest as well. The space itself is large and open, with lots of warm hues, subdued lighting, and naturally finished woods all lending a cozy feel. Besides the tasting bar, there are plenty of small gathering spots, too – comfy chairs, cozy booths, cafe tables, and a couch or two.

Our tasting room host was upbeat, friendly, and knowledgeable. As she poured our tastings, she enthusiastically shared a little of the history of this five generation winery with us – including the story of “The Old Man” – the last orchard apple tree standing on the family farm. The tree has been immortalized by local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized in an intricate metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

[This Gravenstein tree] symbolizes five generations of Fletchers, a touchstone of the legacy that began with apples and pears. The orchard has been transitioning into a vineyard for awhile now, but we’re keeping this ancient fellow. It is so old, it is nearly hollowed out inside, yet it still manages to produce blossoms and fruit every year. ~ Stave & Stone

Stave & Stone 3 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized the old family Gravenstein tree in a metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

There was still plenty of daylight left when we left Stave & Stone, so we drove back to the hotel and took a stroll around the grounds, first exploring the south side in the front of the hotel.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel maintains seven acres of beautifully manicured gardens. Phelps Creek (for which the aforementioned winery is named) runs through the property, and natural water features dominate the landscape.

Ducks - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

I tried to get the ducks to pose for a picture, but they weren’t interested. 😉

On the river-side of the Columbia Gorge Hotel, you will find Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, where Phelps Creek flows and falls 207 feet into the Columbia. Once known as Lullaby Falls (apparently for the sleep-inducing properties that its soothing water sounds have on hotel guests) Wah Gwin Gwin now takes its name from a Chinook term meaning “rushing waters.”

Most people on a romantic getaway like ours would probably choose to dine on a fancy dinner in the hotel’s posh restaurant, Simon’s Cliffhouse and Valentino Bar. However, Mr B and I have along-standing tradition of homemade Shepherd’s Pie on our Valentine’s getaway, no matter where we are. Sometimes it takes a little creativity to pull it off, but so far, we’ve always managed to make it happen. This year, our room had a nice refrigerator to keep things cold, but no microwave to warm it up. Our buddy Rick-the-Awesome-Hotel-Guy saved the day by heating it up for us.

The next morning, we packed up and hopped in the car to make our way back to Portland. Which brings me to this – the first time I’ve seen the Gorge in the daylight with my own eyes since “the fire.”

*** * * * ***

If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping you’ll stay with me, because I need to turn a corner and get serious for a moment. I was more than a little anxious about going to the Gorge at all this year. In fact, I’ve consciously avoided driving through it in the daylight ever since September 2^nd, when a carelessly set wildfire took off and eventually burned 48,831 acres in the heart of the Gorge, changing its landscape for generations.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

I wish I had taken some pictures while we were driving home that would illustrate the both the devastation and hope. Unfortunately, when Mr B and I were driving through, I was too busy crying to take any pictures. Many thanks to Staci W. [Crafty Staci] for sharing these images of the fire with us. They were taken on her phone from a moving sheriff’s car shortly after the fire started.

If you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest, you may not understand, but for many of us here, the Columbia River Gorge is far more than just the pretty place we keep our waterfalls. The Gorge is where we root our feet to the earth, and where we search our souls, and where we find our solace. When the Eagle Creek fire rushed through last fall, it was as if someone had come in the dark of night and burned down our church. Our synagogue. Our mosque. Our sacred ground.

So, I’m here to report to my PNW brothers and sisters who have not yet gone – what I saw from the highway gave me hope. Now, I know that most of the burn can’t be seen from the road, and we really won’t get a good feel for the whole of the loss until much later, but I did see more trees than I expected still standing tall. The high ridges, particularly on the west end of the Gorge, are lined with blackened evergreen skeletons, but there is far more life happening on the slopes than I imagined, even in the middle of winter. I may not ever see the Gorge in its full majesty again in my lifetime, but my grandchildren might, and that gives me hope.

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

Businesses in the Gorge are waiting for people to return. They need us. If you are thinking of taking a getaway and you live in the Pacific Northwest, consider spending some time in the Gorge. It’s still there, waiting for you.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

McCully House Inn – Jacksonville, Oregon {Plus a Ghost Story!}

February 16 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Relax, unwind, and take a trip back through Oregon history – at the McCully House in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon. {Plus a Ghost Story!}

Located in beautiful Jacksonville, Oregon, the McCully House Inn is just a few short blocks from the town’s historic downtown district, with restaurants, watering holes, antique stores, artisan shops, and Brittfest within easy walking distance.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
The McCully House consists of seven deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I stayed in the McCully “Queen Room,” a second floor guest room that overlooks California Street and features a Queen sized pillow-top bed, a sitting area with a lovely two-sided antique desk, and a private bath. The accommodations were spacious, quiet, and private, and the bed was exceptionally comfortable.

Each McCully House Inn guestroom features a coffee maker, refrigerator, flat screen television, bottled water, Aveda bath products, and complimentary Wifi. Guests also receive a $10 certificate that con be used at one of five local restaurants, all within walking distance, for breakfast each day.

The McCully House Inn is the oldest home in Oregon currently operating as an inn. It has quite an interesting history, too. It was built in 1861 by John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, only to have him abandon it a year later (along with his wife, Jane, and their three children). Dr. McCully left Jane the McCully House, along with all his debt. To survive, Jane initially turned to baking bread and pies to support her family, and for a short time leased the house out to one Amos Rogers as a boarding house.

However, Jane was a trained teacher, and apparently a real go-getter, too. In June of 1862, she opened “Mrs McCully’s Seminary” – the town’s first school for girls – in her family’s old log cabin. By the end of 1862, her seminary had become so popular that she took over running McCully House once again, and held her classes there, where she provided advanced education for both girls and boys for generations of children from Jacksonville’s most prominent families.

That should be the end of the story, but it isn’t. It seems that some folks claim that the McCully House is haunted, although reports vary as to just whom is doing the haunting. The most renown story says the after John McCully died, his ghost returned to haunt the house he had left so abruptly. Mary Ann Ramsden, a long-time resident of McCully House, tells about guests claiming to have seen McCully’s ghost sitting calmly in a chair in their room; however, instead of inciting fear, his presence made them feel “comforted, like he was basically a nice guy.” Other McCully House guests have encountered the visage of an unidentified woman walking the halls and up and down the stairs. Have no fear though: all reports have been of the innocuous variety – footsteps, rocking, doors opening and closing and such. Nothing to get excited about. So far, that is…

If you’d like a peak at one of the luxury suites, you’re in luck! Check out this post from one of my traveling companions, Marlynn at Urban Bliss Life.

I very much enjoyed my stay at the McCully House Inn, and look forward to staying there again on future trips to Jacksonville.

McCully House
240 East California Street (Corner of California & Fifth Street)
{Part of Country House Inns Jacksonville}
Phone: (541) 899-2050

^{Disclosure: My stay at McCully House was complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Pennington Farms, Applegate Valley

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

Southern Oregon Travel: Pennington Farms {+ Blackberry Buckle Recipe}

February 9 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Open year-round, a visit to Pennington Farms recalls a simpler time, filled with ripe, juicy berries fresh from the vine and scratch-made baked goods like your grandma used to make.

If you ever find yourself traveling through southern Oregon’s beautiful Applegate Valley between Medford and Grants Pass, Pennington Farms is one stop you must plan to make. I fell in love with the place the first time I visited.

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”

So begins the saga of Pennington Farms, which welcomes visitors as soon as they step through the bakery door.

Founded by the Sam and Cathy Pennington back in the mid-‘90s, this 90-acre family-run farm now grows between 38-50 varieties of berries each year, including many hard-to-find heirloom varieties. As stewards of the land, the Pennington family is committed to a farming philosophy that relies on organic, biodynamic methods, with a goal of working in harmony with the earth’s natural rhythm.

The Country Bakery at Pennington Farms is a delight for the senses and aromatherapy for the soul. Beautiful scratch-made pastries, pies, and cookies, homemade jams and syrups. Surfboards from a former life decorate the walls and seasonal berries line the shelves. Good vibes abound.

Pennington Farms focuses on cultivating harder-to-grow heirloom berries, which typically produce fewer, smaller berries that must be picked by hand. The trade-off for this extra labor is an intensity of true berry flavor that, according to Cathy Pennington, newer hybrid varieties simply don’t deliver.

How to Enjoy Berry Season Year-round

Berry season is fleeting and fresh berries off the vine have a very short shelf life; nevertheless, with just a minimum of effort you can have berries year-round.

When you bring fresh berries home, cull them and immediately discard any moldy or overripe berries.
Put the remaining berries, unwashed, into a container lined with paper towels to absorb any moisture.
Do not wash berries until just before eating, and then only briefly in cold water.
To freeze berries, distribute dry berries in a single layer on a clean cookie sheet and put them in the freezer until frozen. Remove from freezer just long enough to pour into a plastic freezer container or sealable freezer bag and return them to the freezer immediately. Berries can be frozen for up to one year.
When baking with frozen berries, do not thaw before using.

5 from 5 votes

Pennington Farms Blackberry Buckle

Course Dessert

Prep Time 30 minutes

Cook Time 1 hour

Total Time 1 hour 30 minutes

Servings 8

Author Pennington Farms, Grants Pass, OR

Ingredients

Batter:

2 cups flour
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup butter softened
¾ cup sugar
1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries

Topping:

½ cup flour
½ cup sugar
¼ cup butter

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x9 baking dish.
In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
In a medium mixing bowl, beat butter on high until pale and fluffy. Add sugar and continue mixing until they are thoroughly creamed. Beat in egg.
With mixer on low, add flour mixture and milk to creamed mixture a little at a time, alternating between the two and beating until smooth.
Spoon batter into prepared pan. Evenly distribute berries over top.

Topping

In a small bowl, combine flour and sugar, and then cut in butter with a pastry blender, fork (or your fingers) until the mixture resembles oatmeal. Sprinkle over berries.
Bake in preheat oven 50-60 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm, preferably with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

To get to Pennington Farms, take the “long way” between Grants Pass and Medford on the Jacksonville-Williams Highway [Oregon Route 238]. The Pennington Farms bakery and farm market are open almost year round, and their products are available at the farmers’ markets in Ashland, Medford and Grants Pass, as well as specialty shops throughout the area.

Pennington Farms
11341 Williams Hwy
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.0550
pnnngtnj@aol.com

My visit to Penningrton Farms was included as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own.

More Southern Oregon Travel from GHW

Jacksonville, Oregon

Rogue Creamery, Central Point, Oregon

Lillie Belle Farms {Artisan Chocolates}, Central Point, Oregon

Newport Seafood & Wine Festival: 11 Tips to Know Before Your Go

January 23 By Renée ♥ 18 Comments

Knowing what to expect and being prepared will make all the difference when you attend the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival.

A few years ago while attending a casual dinner gathering of Portland food and wine bloggers in Portland, I happen to mention that I had just returned from a weekend at the coast.

Me: “Guess what I just did last weekend, guys!?! (Everyone looks at me expectantly.) “I went to the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival. For the first time.”
Group: [Collective low-key head shaking] “Why, Renée? What were you thinking?!?”
Me: “I know. I should have known. I really should have known.”
Group: [Knowing chuckles and nodding.]
Me: “It was a total frat party.”
Group: “Accurate. It’s a lot better if you’re prepared for it though.”

True story, folks. Be prepared.

11 Things You Need to Know Before Attending the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival | The Good Hearted Woman

Jenny and I met these enthusiastic ladies while waiting in the shuttle line. They attend the Festival every year together to celebrate their friend’s birthday.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

It all started out like an adventure waiting to happen. My BFF Jenny and I packed up the car for much needed a girls’ weekend at the beach, where we planned to spend our time tasting some of the best wines around and eating piles of delicious seafood. Well, we definitely made a memory – no question about that – but we also got an clear-cut reminder that, like Disneyland on a hot August afternoon, expectation and reality are not always the same thing.

That said, let me be clear: the point of this post is not to discourage you from attending the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival: quite the contrary! It is my hope that this post will give you the information you need so that, when you go, you can have a great time; and (most importantly) avoid having any big, unwelcome surprises along the way. In other words, this is the post I wish I had read before I went.

This is the post I wish I'd read *before* I went to the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival {Newport, Oregon} #travel #traveloregon @seafoodandwine Click To Tweet

The Newport Seafood & Wine Festival

Held annually in Newport Oregon on the 4th weekend of February

Every February since 1978, the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival in Newport, Oregon has attracted visitors from around the world. At the Festival, Pacific Northwest wineries pour their finest wines, culinary professionals serve up delectable seafood creations, and local artists and craftsmen showcase a variety of fine art, sculptures, photography, pottery, and jewelry. Knowing what to expect and being prepared will make all the difference in your experience.

[Note that this is a over-21 event. Children are not allowed, nor are pets unless they are a service animal.]

Pre-Festival Prep

1. Book your stay in Newport early. Each year, the Festival draws some 25,000 additional people to this coastal community of 10,000, making overnight options scarce, so if you want to stay in town, be sure to plan ahead. Or, better yet, plan your overnight stay in one of the many nearby coastal towns. Maybe it’s just my imagination, but Newport overnight accommodations during the Festival seem significantly more pricey than they are other times of the year. (Whaaa?!?!) You may find a better deal by staying 20 or 30 minutes north or south of Newport.

2. Purchase your tickets online to save. You can save between 10% and 20% by purchasing your tickets online. Note that Saturday entrance is by E-Ticket only. There is NO GENERAL ADMISSION on Saturday. Standby may be available after 1pm depending on capacity; however, standby tickets are considerably more expensive.

3. Eat a good meal before you go. This is just common sense, especially if you plan to do a lot of wine tasting. You probably want to avoid spicy or heavily seasoned food in order to keep your taste buds neutral, but it’s a good idea to have something in your stomach.

Speaking of food, I think that the single biggest disappointment about the Festival for me when I attended was due wholly to my incorrect perception that because title of the Festival was “Seafood & Wine,” that there would be a balance of, well, seafood and wine. Logically, what followed in my mind was that I would have many luscious seafood options from which to choose for a midday meal.

The reality was, not so much. From my perspective (and I’m sure some would disagree) this Festival is all about the Wine: the seafood is just a nice opening act, and an overpriced one at that. With that said, the food vendor list for this year’s festival seems to have significantly expanded since we attended, so it might be a bit more balanced now.

Getting There

4. Take advantage of the shuttle service. The Newport Seafood & Wine Festival provides a FREE bus shuttle to all patrons of the Festival. The shuttle stops at many of the local hotels, motels and popular Newport neighborhoods. Shuttles stop running 1 hour after the closing of the Festival. On Saturday the hours are extended for service to area restaurants. Even if you are staying a ways out of town, I suggest parking at one of the shuttle stops and taking the shuttle bus to the actual event location, as parking there can be a significant challenge much of the time.

There are also many private groups that obtain a license to operate as a temporary cab service through the City of Newport. These cab services are available throughout the Festival weekend in addition to the regular cab companies in Newport.

5. Go early and leave early. At peak times of the day (particularly on Saturday) there can be a bit of a wait to get in, so be prepared to chill in line for a little while. (And “chill” you will! Remember, this is the Oregon Coast in February, folks.) The upside to this is that you will have the opportunity to meet some truly interesting characters.

The best days to go to avoid the college partiers are Thursday night or Sunday, the later being the most “adult” day of the Festival. Sunday is also a good day for finding deals, as vendors don’t want to tote all that wine back with them.

This couple, like many, dressed up for the occasion.

When You Go

6. Do not drink all the wine. [Read: Don’t be a jackass.] At one point while Jenny and I were threading our way through the crowds, it seemed as though wine glasses were falling to the ground around us like plates at a Greek wedding, due mostly to the fact that their owners had lost the ability to hold onto a glass properly.

Each time a glass popped and shattered on the asphalt floor, individuals in the nearby crowd expressed one of two distinct reactions: (1) clapping, cheering, and general appreciation for the glass owner’s achievement of apparent inebriation, or (2) head-shaking and eye-rolling at the glass owner’s achievement of apparent inebriation. Personally, and at risk of sounding old and judgy, the truth is, if you drink all the wine, you will end up looking like a jackass to at least half the crowd. If you’re cool with that, great. Just don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Mulled blueberry wine, made from a novelty wine from Springbank Farm in Lebanon, Oregon was one of my favorite things at the Festival. It was especially welcome on a crisp February afternoon.

7. Keep in mind that the Vendors are people, too. Vendors can get cranky after a weekend of dealing with ~~drunken revelers and college carousers~~ wine tasters, so if they seem a bit frustrated at times, try to offer a little compassion and a kind word. (You might even get a free tasting out of it 😉)

10 Things You Need to Know Before Attending the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival | The Good Hearted Woman

This Cardwell Hill Cellars vendor was very friendly, and such a good sport for posing for my “exhausted vendor” pic.

Good to Know:

8. You probably don’t want to take your teetotaling friends. I have a lot of friends who don’t consume alcohol under any circumstances, and I attend many food events at which alcohol is served to which I would feel completely comfortable taking them… but this ain’t one of ’em. The focus of the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival is on Wine first and foremost, and as someone who abstained for much of my adult life, I can tell you, this event just isn’t geared for the non-imbibing demographic, at all.

In addition to wine and seafood, there are a number of artisan & crafter booths at the Festival, and this was one of my favorites! Mugwump designs & creates handbags, wallets, & other fashion accessories using reclaimed/recycled materials.

9. Actual wine tastings are NOT INCLUDED in the price of your ticket. If this is your first large-scale wine tasting event, this may come as a surprise. If you plan to do a lot of tasting, come prepared with a pocket full of small bills.

10. Wine awards are (apparently) like soccer trophies: everyone gets one. However, (and I’m just guessing here) not all awards are created equal. Now, I’m no wine expert by any stretch, especially when it comes to “wine awards.” All I can tell you is that practically every bottle I saw on display had some kind of ribbon or medal hanging around its neck. The Newport Seafood & Wine Festival hands out Gold, Silver, Bronze and Best-In-Show awards, but beyond that there are tons of wine awards on display from countless other competitions.

11. There will be at least four times more people there than you imagine. If you are one of those people like I am (INFP here) who find crowds a little intimidating (or terrifying), I strongly urge you to avoid going on Saturday at all. This is the busiest day of the Festival (followed closely by Friday evening) and the one that attracts the most “revelers” as well. The best time for crowd-shy folks is Thursday night (which is also the media night), or early in the day on Friday or Sunday.

10 Things You Should Know Before Attending the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival.

Image Credit: Oregon Coast Visitors Association [Used with permission.]

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Have you ever attended the Newport Seafood & Seafood Festival? (Or any large-scale wine festival?) Share your best advice or tips in the comments below.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville {Oregon}

January 18 By Renée ♥ 23 Comments

Blending small town ambience with sophisticated taste, this 1850’s gold-rush town is booming with music, wine, and history.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit Jacksonville twice within a few weeks: the first time as part of a press tour hosted by Travel Oregon, and the second with Mr B – who I dragged south a few weeks later because I couldn’t get enough of it on my first visit.

Admittedly, Jacksonville is a little out of the way, but how it has avoided my radar all these years is a complete mystery to me. This charming 1850’s gold mining town is an easy 20- or 30-minute drive from Medford and Ashland, and about 90 minutes from Crater Lake. The mild climate, slow pace, colorful local history, and thriving music and artisan community are just a few of high points that make this idyllic Southern Oregon town such an appealing destination.

One Fine Day in Jacksonville

Stay: The McCully House

One of three Country House Inn properties in and near Jacksonville, the McCully House is located within easy walking distance of historic downtown Jacksonville, local artisan shops, and a variety of dining options. Originally the home of John McCully, Jacksonville’s first doctor, and reportedly the oldest home in Oregon, the McCully House consists of five deluxe guest rooms and two luxury suites. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here: after a long day of traveling, I relished the quiet, private, relaxing vibe of this place.

{Look for a dedicated post about the McCully House coming soon.}

Breakfast: The Jacksonville Inn

Located in the center of Jacksonville, the restaurant at the Jacksonville Inn is the place in town to celebrate those big occasions in life – anniversaries, milestone birthdays, engagements and the like. Richly appointed in deep mahogany hues, the Jacksonville Inn makes you feel as though you are dining in the luxury of a bygone era. Our breakfast, hosted by Travel Oregon, was both elegant and delicious. (I highly recommend the scones – they were melt-in-your-mouth good!) In the spirit of full disclosure, I was there with the press group and establishments tend to put out their best silver, so to speak, when they know you might be writing about them. Nevertheless, our meal was quite good and the service was impeccable.

Jacksonville Inn - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Courtney Pierce, Austin Food Magazine

I’m very picky about my poached eggs, and the ones that came on my Smoked Salmon Lox Eggs Benedict were perfect!

OPTIONS: If you’re looking for something a little less fancy (or pricey) for breakfast, I suggest stopping in at The Mustard Seed Cafe. Known for their biscuits & gravy, great sandwiches and friendly service, this cozy cafe serves up a stellar cinnamon roll, with a side of lively conversation.

Go: Jacksonville Trolley

The Jacksonville Trolley is a great way to discover the people, places, and events that make up historic Jacksonville. The trolley offers five tours a day May through October, as well as private tours and rentals. Tickets are very reasonable ($6 for adults) and only sold in person and on the day of the tours. You can also book the trolley for private events.

Shop: Downtown Jacksonville

Cozy shops with names like Carefree Buffalo, Rebel Heart Books, Farmhouse Treasures, and the Blue Door Garden Store housed in historic 1880’s buildings line Jacksonville’s main thoroughfare, offering everything from kitschy cottage inspirations to finely-crafted artisan creations.

Lunch: The Cheesemonger’s Wife

The Cheesemonger’s Wife is a clean, straightforward eatery that serves up fresh, quality made-to-order European-style sandwiches, cheese plates, and soups. Sandwiches are generous, and filled with some deliciously surprising flavor combinations. They also offer a wide selection of cheeses in the deli case. The space itself is somewhat stark, especially compared to other dining choices in town, but the quality of the food more than makes up for any shortcomings in ambience.

Mr B and I shared a carefully prepared, customized “Vaporetto,” with lots of very fresh, thin-sliced ham and turkey, thin slices of sopressata and mortadella (Italian salamis), and gruyere cheese on a bakery-fresh baguette, and a piping hot bowl of homemade tomato soup. We had more than enough to fill us up, and would eat here again in heartbeat.

Stroll: Historic Jacksonville Walking Tour

Jacksonville was founded in 1851 with the discovery of gold in Rich Gulch, and has somehow survived – despite the railroad bypassing the town and the removal of the county seat to Medford. Now the entire town is a National Historic District, and visiting is taking a step back in time.

You can grab a Jacksonville Walking Tour map/guide at one of many places around town (I got one at the trolley depot) and take a self-guided walking tour. (You can even download an audio narration here for free!) Or, if you are there at the right time, you can catch a “haunted history” guided tour ($5), which offers two options: (1) a Britt Hill tour with saloons, Oregon’s first Chinatown, and two of the most haunted houses in town; and (2) a Courthouse route with tales of brothels, epidemics and hangings. So, fun for the whole family 😉

Jacksonville Railroad - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

Abandoned remnants of the Rogue River Valley Railway, which once carried passengers, freight, and mail between Jacksonville and Medford.

Explore: Applegate Valley

Visit Pennington Farms

Pennington Farms, located in the Applegate Valley just a short drive from Jacksonville, is not your standard roadside farm stand – not by a long shot. Housed in a beautifully renovated rustic barn on their 90-acre berry farm, the Pennington family offers visitors a bountiful variety of berry jams, scratch-made baked goods, and seasonal berries. The drive there is beautiful and well worth the effort.

Take an Applegate Valley Wine Tour

The Rogue River Valley provides the warmest, driest growing conditions in Oregon, making it a winemaker’s paradise. Visitors to Jacksonville can visit one of the seven tasting rooms in town, or take a short drive into the valley to visit any one of eighteen wineries on the Applegate Wine Trail, eleven on the Bear Creek Wine Trail, and six on the Upper Rogue Wine Trail.

Unwind: Brittfest

Jacksonville’s Britt Music & Arts Festival – Brittfest – is the Pacific Northwest’s premier outdoor summer performing arts festival. Held in a naturally formed amphitheater on the beautiful hillside estate of 19th century photographer Peter Britt, Brittfest presents dozens of summer concerts, featuring world-class artists in classical music, jazz, blues, folk, bluegrass, world, pop and country music. Brittfest was one of the highlights of my press stay in Jacksonville, and what will draw me south again in years to come.

Brittfest - Travel Oregon: A Day in Jacksonville | The Good Hearted Woman

John Butler Trio and Nattali Rize performed the night we attended Brittfest.

Brittfest is a complete experience, offering a number of high-quality food concessions to visitors as well – everything from crispy fish tacos to German-style Gyros (yes, it’s a thing). On the night we attended, I dined on an absolutely delectable meal of Anticucho De Pollo ($13) – grilled chicken marinated Peruvian style and served with cilantro rice and a green salad – from Peruvian Point. SOOOO good!

Late Night: Boomtown Saloon

After Brittfest, as our little group was walking back to our hotel, we decided to stop in at the Boomtown Saloon in downtown Jacksonville. I found the food there decent (for bar food), the drinks reasonably priced, and the bartender extremely friendly. Entertainment offerings at Boomtown include live music every Saturday night, pool, shuffleboard, and a number of board games. (The shuffleboard table was very popular with our group!) I don’t know what other late night spots are hopping in Jacksonville, but this was a fun place to kick back and drink in some local color.

Fun Facts about Jacksonville

Jacksonville was the first whole town in America to be listed as a National Historical Landmark.
Jacksonville was the childhood home of Pinto Colvig, the original Bozo the Clown.
Rumor has it that much of the town is haunted (including the hotel we stayed in!)
Jacksonville was home to the first Chinatown in Oregon, founded by immigrants from San Francisco.
Jacksonville’s sister city is Lawrence, New Zealand.

If you’d like to learn more about Jacksonville, check out these links:

3 Days in Jacksonville [Travel Oregon]
Things to Do in Jacksonville [TripAdvisor]
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Jacksonville [Urban Bliss Life]
I Spent the Night in Historic Jacksonville [Melissa Kaylene]

My McCully House stay, Britt Festival tickets, breakfast at Jacksonville Inn, and Applegate Valley Wine Tour were complimentary as part of a #TrailsToFeast press trip with Travel Oregon. As always, all opinions and images (except as noted) are my own.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!

Rogue Creamery {+ 24 Delicious Blue Cheese Recipes}

November 10 By Renée ♥ 5 Comments

In my last post, I introduced you to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor, a small alliance of artisan culinary shops in Central Point, Oregon, and shared our experiences at Lillie Belle Farms with Jeff Shepherd and his amazing chocolates. Today, it’s all about the Cheese.

Specifically, Blue Cheese…

… creamy, salty, savory, delicious, handcrafted, award-winning, internationally-acclaimed Rogue Creamery Blue Cheese.

For many years, I erroneously thought that blue cheese, Roquetfort, Gorgonzola and the like were distinctly different cheeses. And they are… but they aren’t. Like Swiss- and cheddar-style cheeses, there are a wide variety of blue cheeses, each with its own unique flavor and textures, but they can ofttimes be used interchangeably in recipes. So before we go any farther, let’s take a moment to discuss what blue cheese is.

Blue Cheese Basics

Blue cheese is most often made from cow, sheep, or goat milk.
Blue cheese is made by culturing milk with Penicillium, a type of mold.
Different blue cheeses are cultured in various ways, using unique strains of Penicullium, giving them their distinct flavor, texture, and aroma.
In the European Union, many blue cheeses (e.g., Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton) are protected, and can bear their name only if they have been made in a particular region.

Some Popular Varieties of Blue Cheese

Cabrales – Traditionally made from mixing goat and sheep’s milk together, Cabrales has a strong, spicy flavor.
Danish Blue – This strong blue cheese is creamy, with a semi-soft texture.
Dorset Blue Vinney – This English blue cheese is made with unpasteurized, skimmed cow’s milk, and has a hard texture, a crusty outer layer, and a strong aroma and taste.
Gorgonzola – Made with either cow or goat’s milk (sometimes both), Gorgonzola is a firm, creamy cheese with a salty and often slightly sweet taste.
Roquefort – Famously green-veined, Roquefort has a tangy, salty flavor with sweet undertones.
Stilton – This semi-soft cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, and has a strong aroma and outstanding flavor.

A Trip Back in Time: Rogue Creamery {Est. 1933}

There’s something comforting and wonderful about the rustic feel of a real, honest-to-goodness (emphasis on the goodness!) cheese shop, and the Rogue Creamery is about as honest a cheese shop as they come. Founded in 1933 at the height of the depression, Rogue Creamery began producing blue cheese in 1954. Today, they continue to draw both inspiration and resources from Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, and offer award-winning varieties of outstanding handcrafted blue cheese, cheddar cheese, and TouVelle.

Step inside to sample cheeses to your heart’s content. Hungry travelers can order one of their crazy-good panini-style grilled cheese sandwiches, prepared with more than a generous amount of cheese. A great place to pack a perfect picnic, Rogue Creamery also offers a carefully curated selection of deli items, crackers, fruit, beer, and wine, as well as local artisan jams, jellies and sauces. The staff at the shop is helpful and knowledgeable, and will be more than happy to help you with your selections.

PRO TIP: There are always samples available, but if something you want to try isn’t out, all you need to do it ask.

The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. {Gilbert K. Chesterton} Click To Tweet

Rogue Creamery Notes:

Smokey Blue: Referred to in-house as “Beginner Blue,” this smooth, smokey blue packs in all of the flavor (and then some) without the harsh, bitey quality of some blue cheeses. This classic Roquefort-style blue cheese is cold smoked sixteen hours with Oregon Hazelnut shells, resulting in a sweet, creamy, smoky flavor. It crumbles well, and is “easy to eat” as blue cheese goes, and pairs well with well-rounded “food” wines that are on the fruity side and lighter on tannins and acidity.
LaDiDa Lavender Cheddar: I know – it sounds weird, but Mr B and I both love this uniquely floral cheese. LaDiDa would be perfect on a dessert tray with chocolate or scones, and paired with a light dessert wine.
Caveman Blue: Full-bodied, buttery, and AMAZING! Rogue Creamery uses a unique aging environment to create this golden-hued blue that tastes of sweet, fresh buttermilk with hints of tropical fruit. Caveman’s earthy undertones pair well with a wide range of beverages, from bold reds to sweeter desert wines to full-flavored Stouts.
Blue Heaven (Powdered Cheese): Blue Heaven is a proprietary blend of Oregon Blue, Oregonzola, Crater Lake Blue and special reserve blue cheeses. Perfect for sprinkling on salads, breads, popcorn, nuts, and anything else you can think of.

PRO TIP: Not a fan of dry, tannin-rich red wines? Me either. But next time you have the chance, try some with a bite of blue cheese. You may be pleasantly surprised (as I was) to discover that the pairing opens up whole new venues to you. Tannins literally bind to the cheese’s protein and fat, measurably softening the astringent qualities of the tannins, and making the entire tasting experience smoother in the process.

BLUE CHEESE RECIPE ROUND-UP

Blue Cheese is an amazingly versatile cheese; equally perfect on a fruit and cheese plate or as a stand-out ingredient in your next meal. Here’s a little Blue Inspiration 😉 from some of my favorite bloggers.

** Recipes are pictured in order, clockwise from the top left corner of each image.

Disclosure: My first trip to the Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own.

At the Corner of Music & Chocolate {Lillie Belle Farms}

November 2 By Renée ♥ 21 Comments

Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Tucked just off I-5 in the unassuming southern Oregon town of Central Point, you can find divine respite from the road in a luxurious trifecta of world-class cheese, wine, and chocolate. The Southern Oregon Artisan Corridor – aptly coined “a little stretch of heaven” – is a small grouping of distinct artisan shops that have formed a culinary alliance of sorts. Each shop offers on-site tastings, and they occasionally even collaborate on projects together. I have visited there not once, but twice in the last month, sampling prize-winning cheeses from Rogue Creamery, estate-grown wines from Ledger David Cellars, and hand-crafted chocolates from Lillie Belle Farms – all just steps from one another.

Today, however, it’s all about the Chocolate.

Lillie Belle Farms founder Jeff Shepherd abides at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens. Like an electric anthem, Jeff’s chocolates are a passionate, vibrant expression of his art.

We are savage Rock ‘N’ Roll fans at Lillie Belle! Having attended literally thousands of loud live shows and seen hundreds of bands both old and new, Rock ‘N’ Roll is an integral part of our creative process. You will always hear music pulsing out of our kitchen. In fact, it’s impossible to separate our chocolate life from our musical life.

~ Jeff Shepherd, Lillie Belle Farms

[Cue: Sugar Magnolia] 😉

The first time I visited Lillie Belle Farms {on a Travel Oregon press tour}, we arrived right at closing time, and Jeff was in the process of transforming himself from chocolate artisan and entrepreneur to band member and guitar player. Now, it might be helpful for me to note that, on this particular trip, most of my traveling companions were significantly younger than me and may have lacked the deep appreciation for the tie-dyed generation and all that we stand for. Jeff, on the other hand, falls approximately into my age demographic, and is every good thing you think of when you think Tie-Dyed Southern Oregon Musician + Chocolate. In other words, we kinda connected. I mean, what’s not to like about a guy who keeps a set of portable baffle boards in his chocolate kitchen so that he can set up for band practice at a moment’s notice? So while all the rest of my party sprinted across the parking lot to Ledger David for our prearranged wine-tasting, I lingered a few extra minutes at Lillie Belle, chatting with Jeff about his current inspirations and future plans; and while I can’t share everything we talked about at the moment, I can tell you that there is a lot to look forward to!

Just a few weeks after my first visit, I had the opportunity to stop at Lillie Belles again, this time with Mr B. We arrived on a Sunday morning just before the doors opened, and there was already a line waiting to get in! Nevertheless, Jeff greeted us warmly and gave us the full VIP treatment, including a tour of the inner sanctum – his kitchen/band practice space. He and Mr B talked band life and bantered about musical preferences and what songs they had covered. Jeff showed us the corner of the kitchen dedicated to Elvis, and his expansive wall of Grateful Dead covers, and his amazing custom traveling chocolate cart covered with backstage passes and concert tickets. (I can’t remember every one, but we visited the week Tom Petty died, so I do remember there being many, many passes for Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers.) By the end of our visit, I was practically ready to invite Jeff and his crew up north for dinner and an impromptu jam session. I’d even let him bring dessert. (hehehe 😉 )

(Want to learn more about Jeff and his “ecclectic mind bending and transformative chocolate madness”? Check out his very entertaining Lillie Belle Farms blog.)

But enough about Jeff. Let’s talk about his chocolates.

Lillie Belle Farms, named for Jeff’s wife Belle and daughter Lillie, now moves some 20,000 pounds of chocolate a year, in the form of handmade gourmet chocolate bars, decadent ganache-filled chocolates, liquor-infused chocolates, truffles, fresh berry cups, cherry cordials, and chocolates filled with handmade fondants, butter creams, caramels, and toasted nuts. They even have a Smokey Blue Cheese Truffle Spread; a collaboration with Rogue Creamery that combines an amazing, award-winning Smokey Blue Cheese, organic milk chocolate, and toasted almonds into a surprisingly satisfying spreadable tangy chocolate concoction.

Cheese and chocolate spread notwithstanding, one of the things I appreciated most about Lillie Belle Farms chocolates was the simplicity of the flavor profiles that they employ. What I mean is, lately I’ve been to some food events where I’ve sampled confections that intentionally challenge my palate with a confusing amalgamation of flavors that require me to do some serious cranial calisthenics as my brain tries to isolate and delineate each component. (Chili cilantro salted coffee cream, anyone?) Conversely, the overwhelming majority of Lillie Belle chocolates are single-flavored bites, allowing you to lean back and simply enjoy the experience as the cocoa flavanols rouse your brain and the velvety chocolate caresses your tongue.

{Tangentially, there is some science behind why that strange Blue Cheese ‘n Chocolate combo works, but in a nutshell, it’s apparently because they share at least 73 flavor compounds.}

After much consideration, Mr B and I took home a small fortune’s worth of luxury chocolates – every one a winner. Here are just a few of the standouts from our haul…

Recommendations & Notes:

Lavender caramels {Lavender infused caramels topped with Fleur de Sel salt}: So good. Just. So. Good.
Maker’s Mark Cups {Filled with pecan butter, dark chocolate and a Maker’s Mark whiskey ganache, and topped with a large caramelized pecan}: Mr B LOVED this one. I can’t tell you what I think about it because, he ate it up too fast.
Frangelico Cups {Dark Chocolate cup filled with a creamy, Frangelico infused mousse}: Light and sweet without being cloying, this was one of my favorites. Because Frangelico. And Chocolate. Oh my…
Raspberry Ganache {organically grown raspberries, infused in a dark chocolate ganache, covered with more dark chocolate and finished with a raspberry floral design}: Bright, clean raspberry flavor paired perfectly with a smooth dark chocolate.
Marionberry Bon Bon {organic Marionberry preserves encased in a dark chocolate shell}: Sublime. As far as I’m concerned, you just cannot beat Marionberries and dark chocolate together. Smooth, well-balanced, and deeply satisfying.

Chocolate doesn't ask silly questions. Chocolate Understands. Click To Tweet

You can find Lillie Belle Farms chocolates at Whole Foods, Made in Oregon stores, and Powell’s among other places; or you can order it online. Or do what we did and include it in your next trip to the Rogue River Valley. Lillie Belle Farms is open seven days a week in Central Point, just northwest of Medford on Highway 99.

Lillie Belle Farms
211 N. Front St.
Central Point, OR 97502
(541) 664-2815
1 (888) 899-2022

Shop Hours:
Monday to Friday: 9–5
Saturday: 9–6
Sunday: 11–5

Disclosure: My first trip to Lillie Belle Farms was as part of the #TrailsToFeast Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and photos are my own.

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Lillie Belle Farms chocolates can be found at the unique crossroads of Music and Chocolate – and that is where the magic happens.

Today, however, it’s all about the Chocolate.

Recommendations & Notes:

*** * * * ***

“Once there was a boy named Sam who grew up in the surf and sand
To the mainland he headed on the journey of his life
And ended up finding his wife.
The couple got married and had quite a clan
Sam said, “Let’s leave the city for simpler life”
So to the farm the headed hand-in-hand.”