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7 Stunning Reasons to Visit Arches National Park

Mother Nature is a master sculptor and in no place is that more evident than at Arches National Park.

― Stefanie Payne, A Year in the National Parks: The Greatest American Road Trip

When I first set eyes on Arches National Park, it reminded me of what the “alien planet” sets on the original Star Trek series might have looked like if they had had a bigger budget. As we traveled through the park, I was fascinated by all of the artistic inspiration and rich color painted across the desolate high desert landscape. Everywhere I looked, sandstone towers reached and arches bowed; their orange, rust, and red bands constantly shifting in the sun’s sweeping path.

Located in central eastern Utah near the Colorado border, Arches National Park offers visitors a front row seat to some of the most stunning sandstone formations in the world. Over 2,000 documented sandstone arches within the park’s boundaries – more than any other place on the planet. (An arch, by definition, is “an opening in the rock that stretches at least three feet in one direction.”)

Arches National Park has been on my bucket list for some time now, and this summer I finally had the chance to experience it. The middle of summer may not be the optimal time to visit central Utah, but sometimes you just have to grab an opportunity when it’s in front of you, right? (The best time to visit in is the fall or spring.)

Here are seven places in Arches National Park that Mr B and I found especially awe-inspiring:

1. Delicate Arch

[Delicate Arch Hike – 2.6 mile RT/ Moderate to Strenuous]

Delicate Arch, iconic to Utah, is the most famous – and most photographed – arch in the world.

There is a viewpoint along the park road from which drivers can a good view of Delicate Arch. However, if it is at all within your abilities, we strongly encourage you to take the hike to get an up close, personal look. (I’ll be writing more about the Delicate Arch Hike and how to survive it in an upcoming post.)

Getting to Delicate Arch requires a moderately challenging hike, but it is totally worth the effort! Plan for at least 2 1/2 hours to make the hike, go early to avoid the heat and crowds, and don’t even think of hitting the trail without taking twice as much water as you think you need.

Pro Tip: This image was taken at about 9:30am. If you want to photograph Delicate Arch in all its glory, with the sun hitting all those amazing bands of red and rust just right, you’ll have to brave the crowds at sunset.

2. Giant’s Grin

[On the Delicate Arch Trail]

Full disclosure: I totally made that name up.

This place isn’t listed in any of the Arches National Park literature I could find, but it it one of the coolest places we saw at the park. (Literally. In the midmorning heat, it offered us some much needed shade.) I’m sure the ANP Rangers have a name for it, but I don’t know what it is. Whatever it’s called, you can find it a little more than three-quarters of the way up the Delicate Arch trail.

What I do know is that when you arrive at this landmark, you should be smiling, because your destination is just around the corner! Before you continue though, take a minute to enjoy this mammoth formation and the stunning photo op it offers.

One Day in Arches National Park {Moab, Utah}

If you look closely, you can see a couple of our kids cooling off in the recess.

(Did you think of a better name for this ^^^ formation? Leave us a note in the comments!)

3. Three Gossips & Sheep Rock

I don’t know why, but these particular formations just made me smile. I suppose it tickles me that the inspiration for naming Three Gossips is just so universal – nearly everyone has aunties or uncles or siblings or friends who could be those three. And who doesn’t love a giant stone sheep in the desert?

7 Stunning Reasons to Visit Arches National Park {Moab, Utah} | The Good Hearted Woman

The Three Gossips & Sheep Rock

Three Gossips stands about 350 feet at its tallest wall and sits within a grouping of sandstone towers known as the “Courthouse Towers cluster” that also includes The Argon Tower, The Organ, Tower of Babel, Sheep Rock, and The Lamb.

4. Courthouse Tower

The arches may get the most press, but this majestic monolith took my breath away. This image was taken from a roadside pull-out: no hike required.

Courthouse Towers - One Day in Arches National Park {Moab, Utah}

You know how every once and awhile you take a shot that makes you feel like the photography gods are on your side that day?

5. Balanced Rock

Balanced Rock stands an impressive 128 feet tall, and appears as though it is defying gravity. However, it is more a case of erosion wearing away at the base where the 3,600 ton boulder meets the pedestal than any epic balancing act. Eventually, Balanced Rock will come tumbling down as the erosional process continues to shape the landscape. (Sometimes science really works hard to poke a hole in your imagination balloon, doesn’t it?)

Balanced Rock can be seen from the park road, or you can make the very short hike around the formation’s base to get a close-up perspective.

6. The Windows Section

The Windows Section contains a large concentration of arches and is one of the most scenic locations in the park.

Formations in this area include North Window, Turret Arch, and Double Arch, Garden of Eden, Elephant Butte, and Parade of Elephants. (Though, truth be told, I haven’t got the fainted idea which on is which.)

7. Double Arch

Double Arch is a Must-do when visiting Arches National Park! This spectacular flowing formation can be found in the Windows section of the park. Double Arch consists of two arches that share the same stone foundation for both of their outer legs.

The sandy trail to Double Arch is very short and ADA compliant, which means it is considered barrier free. (Barrier-free trails may contain minor obstacles, steeper grades and temporary washouts.)

Taking the walk out to Double Arch is a lesson in perspective: the interlocking arches seem to grow to massive proportions as you get closer, and by the time you climb up into the arches themselves, you’ll finally know what those ants in your ant farm felt like.

Travel Information

Arches National Park Map

Arches National Park is open year-round, 24 hours a day. The park’s Visitor Center is located just inside the park, near the main entrance, with hours varying seasonally.

Park Entry Fees and Passes

Vehicle Entrance to Park – $25 (good for 7 days). This fee includes all occupants of a vehicle.
Individual Entrance to Arches – $10 (good for 7 days). This fee applies to bicycles and walk-ins (per person).
Motorcycle Entrance – $15 per motorcycle (good for 7 days).
America the Beautiful – National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Passis honored. Cost is $80. This is the best deal for people intending to visit multiple parks within a year’s time. You can get NP Parks Pass online or at the park entrance.
Southeast Utah Parks Pass
$50 valid through the month of purchase. Admits 1 private, non-commercial vehicle or its pass holder to Arches and Canyonlands national parks, and Hovenweep and Natural Bridges national monuments.

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50 Miles Along the Natchez Trace Parkway {Day Trip From Memphis}

September 4 By Renée ♥ 18 Comments

Stretching 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville Tennessee, the historic Natchez Trace Parkway takes travelers on a journey through history; from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and sweeping vistas.

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[This is the second in our series of posts about our day trip to Tupelo, Mississippi from Memphis, Tennessee. To read about our adventures in Tupelo, please visit Part 1.]

After spending the day in Tupelo, we decided to make our way back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway?

The Natchez Trace is an ancient trail that stretches 444 miles, from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee, and takes travelers by everything from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and green, sweeping vistas.

The original Trace path was carved by migrating prehistoric wildlife making their way between prairie lands and the Mississippi River. Later, Native American tribes picked up the Trace, and in time everyone from conquistadores, trappers, and boatmen to mail carriers and militia was using the Trace as a primary trade route through the region.

The Natchez Trace Parkway follows the path of the original Natchez Trace. Established as a National Park in 1938, the Parkway has since been designated an “All American Road & Scenic Byway.” (A National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the United States Department of Transportation for one or more of six “intrinsic qualities”: archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The Natchez Trace qualifies in all six.)

Traveler Notes: Mr B and I drove the 50-mile section of the Natchez Trace that connects Tupelo, Mississippi with US-72 W in Alabama. In terms of driving time, taking the Trace versus driving directly back to Memphis from Tupelo added about an hour and a half to our trip. We also spent at least three extra hours exploring the stops along the way. Taking the byway was totally worth the extra time and effort: my only regret is that we didn’t have more time to spend taking in more of the route.

Mile 266.0 – Parkway Visitor Center and Headquarters

We got on the Natchez Trace Parkway as we left Tupelo, stopping first at the Parkway Visitors Center and Headquarters, where we got an overview of the Natchez Trace and picked up some brochures and a map. [Specifically, we highly recommend picking up a Natchez Trace Parkway map provided by the National Park Service, which details each of the mile markers and stops along the Trace. We found it invaluable.]

Inside the Visitor Center you will find a park Ranger-staffed information desk, a small book and souvenir store, an auditorium, and a museum about the Natchez Trace. The Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center has an orientation film and a number of informative interpretive displays as well.

Official Natchez Trace map [PDF], showing the entire length of the Trace from Mississippi to Tennessee.
Mississippi to Alabama map [PDF], which includes all of the sites in this post.

Mile 269.4 – Old Trace & Confederate Gravesites

This was our first stop on the Natchez Trace. There is a short, relatively easy uphill walk from the parking lot to the Unknown Confederate Gravesite.

Much of the Old Trace had been abandoned by the start of the Civil War. However, the war did leave its mark on the Trace as it did upon the rest of the South. The soldiers marched, camped and fought along portions of this historic old road.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

As we walked the short path to these thirteen “Unknown Confederate” graves, I felt as if the very air around us was vibrating. It was probably just my imagination (or possibly those relentless Southern mosquitos).

Which side of history these men died on is not up for debate here. In the still of this sunlit clearing, these thirteen graves stand in silent testament to the sacrifices made on every side in deadliest war in American history.

These thirteen men (boys, more likely) were someone’s son, or father, or brother, or lover. We don’t know how or why they ended up here, nor do we know the thoughts and desires of their hearts. We will never know. All we know is that these thirteen did not survive the fight.

Mile 275.2 – Dogwood Valley

Flowering dogwood is a common small tree throughout the eastern United States from Maine and Michigan south to Texas and Florida. Here the Natchez Trace passes through a small valley with an unusual stand of large dogwood trees. An easy 15 minute walk takes you along a sunken portion of the Old Trace and through the small wooded area named Dogwood Valley.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Dogwood Valley provided us with another short, easy hike. I didn’t get any good pictures of the landscape; mostly because I was busy chasing this darn butterfly – who would not hold still for me no matter how much I pleaded with him!

Mile 278.4 – Twentymile Bottom Overlook

There are a multitude of swamps, streams, and rivers along the lower regions on the Trace, and Twentymile Bottom is one such wetland. This particular stop struck Mr B and I both as a bit anticlimactic: as visitors from one of the greenest corners of the US, this spot was just another vista, and an overgrown one at that. Pretty, yes, but not particularly life-altering.

Traveler Notes: If you are driving a larger RV or pulling a trailer, you might want to consider skipping this stop. The overlook is at the end of a short road with no loop at the end, making it difficult for larger vehicles to turn around.

Mile 286.7 – Pharr Mounds

According to the National Park Service, Pharr Mounds is the largest and most important archaeological site in northern Mississippi. Built by Native American tribes 2,000 to 1,800 years ago, Pharr Mounds is a complex of eight mounds, spread over 90 acres. The mounds, or artificial hills, were built to either hold structures or for burial grounds.

You can only see three of the mounds from the parking lot, and there are no trails out to the mounds. The highest mound is only eighteen feet tall, while others have eroded to the point where it may be difficult to even identify them as hills.

Traveler Notes: This stop has a large parking lot, two picnic tables, some good interpretive information, and a public restroom facility (plumbed).

Mile 308.4 – Cave Spring

Cave Spring, a combination of a cave and a sinkhole, was a particularly interesting stop on our journey. Originally formed by underground water eroding the limestone to create a long room and corridor, the cave weakened over time until it collapsed.

An 800-foot paved path leads you to the mouth of a low cave entrance. Signs warn visitors that the limestone cave is dangerous and will eventually collapse; however, Mr B braved it for this picture because he’s just that kinda guy.

Mile 308.8 – Bear Creek Mound

The village site was occupied as early as 8,000 B.C. by hunters who stayed only long enough to prepare their kill. From the time of Christ to 1000 A.D., migratory people of this area practiced limited agriculture. The nearby fields and streams offered an abundance of nuts, fruits, game and fish. These people shaped this mound and built a crude temple on its summit to house their sacred images.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Traveler Notes: You can easily walk from Bear Creek Mound to the Mississippi-Alabama state line.

Mile 308.9 – Alabama-Mississippi State Line

Between Mr B and I, we have visited nearly every state in the United States. Until this trip, however, neither one of us had ever set foot in Alabama, so we decided to document the occasion.

Obviously, I was the first one in Alabama, because I had to get there first to take this picture of Mr B driving across the state line form Mississippi. (Not that anyone is keeping track or anything. 😉)

Mile 317.0 – Freedom Hills Overlook

Freedom Hills is the site of a short, steep trail that leads to the the highest point on the Natchez Trace in Alabama. There are two benches along the way for resting, and a third bench at the top of the hill.

When Mr B and I took the hike, we took our “good camera,” but both left our cell phones in the car for some reason, so we had to get very creative when it came to taking a picture of the two of us at the top. We jury-rigged a makeshift camera sling in the fork of a tree, and after I set the timer, I had to run down so that we could capture the memory. Let’s just say that it was a challenge and it took more than one try. So while this picture isn’t the greatest and the lighting is terrible, it represents a fun memory for us.

I imagine that this place – along with the entire Natchez Trace – puts on an amazing show of color in the fall.

Mile 320.3 – Buzzard Roost Spring

Buzzard Roost Springs was the last stop we made before getting on Highway 72 for the last leg of our Day Trip from Memphis to Tupelo. It was a peaceful, relaxing way to end our brief tour of Natchez Trace Parkway.

Originally called Buzzard Sleep, the name was changed to Buzzard Roost in 1801 by Levi Colbert, a renowned Chickasaw chief. The spring was a water source for the Colbert house which also served as an inn and stand for travelers on the Old Natchez Trace. Travelers who stopped here remarked that its a good place for they were well received, well fed and kindly treated.

– US Dept of the Interior, National Park Service

Levi Colbert left behind a gripping legacy. As one of six sons of a Scots father and Chickasaw mother, Levi was in unique position between the two cultures. Both Levi and his brother George became prominent interpreters and negotiators, striving to foster peace with the US government while also maintaining the integrity and interests of the Chickasaw people and their culture.

Traveler Notes: If after, visiting this stop, you find yourself wanting to learn more (as I did) about the Chickasaw people; and more specifically, about the Colbert brothers and their intriguing story, you might want to check out Chickasaw Chief George Colbert: His Family and His Country.

Take Highway US-72 W back to Memphis!

Learn more about the Natchez Trace

Visit the Scenic Trace Website
Explore the Natchez Trace Interactive Map
Download the Natchez Trace Visitors Guide

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Tupelo, Mississippi {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 1}

August 20 By Renée ♥ 17 Comments

Looking for a great day trip from Memphis? Check out our real-life itinerary for our day trip from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississippi and back again (including our ridiculously Hobbit-like meal schedule).

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
While on a recent trip to the Memphis area, Mr B and I found ourselves with an extra day on our hands, so we decided to broaden our horizons by taking a day trip to Tupelo, Mississippi, best known as the “Birthplace of Elvis.” And yes indeedee, we saw a heckuva lot of Elvis on this trip, but there’s more to Tupelo than just the history of its favorite son.

Tupelo, as it turns out, has a lot to offer. For example, did you know that the 444-mile historic Natchez Trace Parkway is headquartered in Tupelo? Or that one local man amassed a private collection of automobiles so extensive that Tupelo now boasts the official automobile museum of Mississippi? Or that, in Tupelo, you can legitimately have fried chicken, biscuits, and gravy for breakfast!?!

What follows is the real-life itinerary from our day trip; traveling from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississippi and back again via the Natchez Trace Parkway. I’ve also included our ridiculously Hobbit-like meal schedule in the itinerary (breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, etc.); however, if you are using this as a roadmap for your own day trip, don’t let our eating times or choices hold you back. There are plenty of wonderful places to eat in Tupelo that we didn’t get to. In fact, if you find a great spot to eat in Tupelo, we’d love it if you’d take a minute to share your discoveries in the comments below!

[Travelers: A condensed version of this itinerary can be found at the bottom of this post.]

DAY TRIP: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

📌 We wanted to arrive in Tupelo by 9am, so we had a light breakfast and then hit the road in Memphis about 7:15 am. It took about and hour and forty minutes to drive the 108 miles from Memphis to Tupelo [via I-22].

📌 First stop: Connie’s Chicken.

Connie’s Fried Chicken

821 S Gloster St
Tupelo, MS 38801-4933
662.842.7260

Ready to get your carbs on? If you crave pillow-soft, buttery biscuits, crispy fried chicken, and lots of smooth, savory white gravy like your grandma used to make, Connie’s is your kind of place. This uber-casual comfort food hub serves it all up counter-style with bright smiles, friendly service, and reasonable prices. I had the tenderloin biscuit with gravy, and Mr B had chicken, and we shared a couple of warm blueberry donuts, fresh from the fryer.

📌 From Connie’s, go directly to the Tupelo Visitors Center.

Tupelo Convention & Visitors Bureau

399 E Main Street
Tupelo, Mississippi 38103-1623
662.841.6521

Tupelo has an excellent Visitors Center! Newly opened in 2018, the Tupelo Visitors Center is the perfect starting point for your day. Stop in and get the low down on the best attractions, arts, culture, outdoor recreation, shopping, and Elvis locations in the area.

At the visitors’ center, you can play with the interactive kids’ map, plan your itinerary, or pick up relevant informational brochures; including Elvis Driving Tour and Elvis Guitar Tour maps. There is also a display that allows you to hear the African American gospel, country, and blues music and musicians that influenced Elvis as a boy, and understand better how he integrated them into his unique musical style.

Elvis Driving Tour

Even if you don’t plan to follow this tour, the brochure provides a good overview of the town and will likely help you plan your day.

Elvis Guitar Trail

These 6-foot tall Elvis-themed guitars are ALL OVER town! More than 25 guitars have become permanent part of downtown Tupelo’s cityscape, and provide visitors with some great photo-ops. {Tip: If you post a photo with one of the guitars, be sure to tag it using #MyTupelo!}

📌 Drive to the “Elvis’ Birthplace.”

Elvis’ Birthplace

306 Elvis Presley Drive
Tupelo, MS 38804-2812
662.841.1245

Elvis Aaron Presley was born in Tupelo, Mississippi, on January 8, 1935, in a 450 square foot, two-room house built by his father, grandfather and uncle. The house is now one of the main attractions of the Elvis’ Birthplace and Museum.

The moment we opened the door to Elvis’ childhood home, an unexpected wave of familiarity swept over me – it smells exactly like my Grandma Lucy’s house!

As we stepped inside, a delightful docent greeted us, and enthusiastically shared both her knowledge of Elvis’ early life and details about the home, as well as her philosophy on a community’s responsibility in raising its children. She was abundantly entertaining.

The actual building where the Presley family attended church services has been moved to the Elvis Birthplace location. It was inside the walls of this small community chapel that Elvis was first introduced to the Southern gospel music that wove its way into his music throughout his life.

Through a multimedia presentation, visitors to the chapel experience a condensed church service, and are introduced to Elvis’ early musical influences; including Brother Frank, who taught Elvis his first guitar chords, and the gospel quartets that inspired his music.

If you want to tour the house or the chapel, you’ll need to purchase tickets, but you can walk the grounds and see the exterior of Elvis’ birthplace (still in its original location) free of charge. Tickets to tour the house, chapel, and museum are available for purchase inside the lobby. The earlier you arrive here, the better: this is the Big tourist attraction in town and it gets busy quickly.

📌 After completing your tour of Elvis’ Birthplace, head over to Johnnie’s Drive-In.

Johnnie’s Drive-In

908 E Main Street
Tupelo, MS 38804-2828
662.842.6748

Mr B and I stopped in at Johnnie’s mostly because we are both hopeless romantics and it sounded like a good idea. We were thrilled when we walked in just as the “Elvis Booth” was being vacated, and took our seats before any other crazy Elvis tourists could steal the honor. Mr B and I decided to skip the food and share a root beer float, which turned out to be a great deal because the friendly waitresses at Johnnie’s kept refilling our glass with root beer every time it got low until we finally finished off the ice cream.

The Elvis Booth at Johnnie's Drive-In - Day Trip from Memphis {Part 1: Tupelo, Mississippi} | The Good Hearted Woman

I’d share a root beer float with this guy anytime!

Posted at the Elvis Booth, just below a picture of Elvis sitting the aforementioned booth:

My name is Paul Cramer, and this is the story of my Elvis picture.

I was a traveling salesman in 1956, selling costume jewelry, for the Gerson Company out of Kansas City, MO. My territory was the South. I visited jewelry stores in Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia and Tennessee.

While I was showing my wares to a jeweler in Tupelo, Mississippi, a teenage girl came into the store. She was out of breath and very excited screaming “Elvis is next-door – Elvis is next door!” I didn’t know who Elvis was, but she told me he was very popular in the South.

I happen to have my camera in my car, so I went next door to the café. Elvis was sitting in a booth with another man and there were a few girls around. I asked him if I could take his picture. He said, “OK,” so I took it!

When I came home, I had the picture developed and put away, not thinking much about it. I forgot about it until I came across it in 1997, 41 years later, as I was looking through old photo albums. This is how I took Elvis’s picture.

We are abysmally bad at taking selfies, but at least we have fun while we try!

📌 Next stop: Downtown Tupelo.

Downtown Tupelo

Visit the Tupelo Hardware Store, where Gladys Presley purchased Elvis his first guitar for $7.

Tupelo Hardware Company
114 W Main Street
Main & Front Streets
Tupelo, MS 38804-3916

Tupelo Hardware is one of twelve sites in Tupelo that are marked with bronze plaques on the Elvis Presley Driving Tour, signifying it as having played an important role in Elvis’ formative years. It was at this store that Gladys Presley, Elvis’ mother, purchased his first for his 11th birthday in 1946, for $6.95.

Tupelo Hardware is a fully functioning hardware store (with excellent cast iron offerings!), and visitors are welcome during the store’s regular hours.

Beyond the hardware store, Downtown Tupelo is lined with locally owned specialty shops that carry everything from home décor and artwork by local artists to clothes to cigars and wine. You’ll probably see a few Elvis murals, too. 😉

📌 Drive (or walk) to the Tupelo FairPark, where you can enjoy the wide open-space, the Elvis Homecoming statue, city hall, a small children’s park, and a small but refreshing splash pad.

FairPark

71 Troy Street
Tupelo, MS
662.841.6513

In 1956, Elvis returned to Tupelo and performed a Homecoming Concert at the Mississippi/Alabama Fair and Dairy Show Fairgrounds.

Now known as FairPark, it is home to Tupelo’s annual Elvis Festival, held the first week in June each year. The festival features live music, with past past performers including such artists as Little Big Town, Montgomery Gentry, and B.B. King.

Homecoming Statue

📌 Head over to the Tupelo Automobile Museum and spend an hour or so motoring through the past.

Tupelo Automobile Museum

1 Otis Dr (Corner Franklin & Otis Across from BancorpSouth Arena)
Tupelo, MS 38804-4015

I have to admit that the Tupelo Automobile Museum came as a bit of a surprise. You just don’t expect a town the size of Tupelo to be home to one of the most extensive car collections in the United States. It was pretty amazing, and well worth the entrance fee.

The Tupelo Automobile Museum houses over 100 antique, classic, and collectible cars, all chronologically displayed to illustrate the progress of auto design and engineering over the 100 years. The oldest car in the collection is a 1886 Benz; the newest is a 1994 Dodge Viper.

This collection of kid cars brought back some fond memories.

There were plenty of “famous” cars in the collection as well, including BB King’s 1984 Chevy El Camino, Tony Curtis car (the “Leslie Special”) from the movie The Great Race, and of course, one of Elvis’ cars. (Most of Elvis’ cars can be found in Elvis Presley Motors exhibit at the Elvis Presley’s Memphis Entertainment Complex in Memphis.)

📌 Grab a late lunch at the Neon Pig.

Neon Pig

1203 N Gloster Street
Tupelo, MS 38804-1222
662.269.2533

Before heading back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway, we stopped to grab a world-class burger at the Neon Pig. The Neon Pig Café is the only all-in-one butcher shop and restaurant in Mississippi, and lays claim to one of the best burgers in America.

The Neon Pig’s Smash Burger was officially named “Best Burger in America” by thrillist.com in 2015. The Smash Burger is a combination of aged filet, ribeye, sirloin, New York steak, and Benton’s bacon, all ground together to give it a strong, smoky flavor. It is served on a ciabatta bun with bacon bits, cheddar cheese, onion, and a housemade comeback sauce. Mr B and I decided to split one burger, which was more than enough, and ordered coleslaw and potato salad on the side.

I don’t eat enough burgers to know if this is The Best burger in the US, but it was definitely delicious. (In my mind, the distinction of “world’s best burger” will always and forever go to the T-burger from the Twilight Room [i.e., T-Room] on Lombard in Portland, Oregon.) The ciabatto bun held up well to the imposing mass of meats and sauce, and the flavors all played very nicely together. My best advice for eating at the Neon Pig is – DO NOT SKIP the potato salad! It is amazing! I’m certain that it has more bacon products in it than any ten average potato salads, and that’s probably why it’s so crazy-good.

📌 Stop by the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitors Center just outside of Tupelo.

Natchez Park Visitor’s Center

2680 Natchez Trace Pkwy
Tupelo, MS 38804-9715
800.305.7417

The Natchez Trace is a primitive trail once traveled by Native Americans over 8,000 years ago, spanning 444 miles and reaching from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Tennessee. The Natchez Trace Parkway, headquartered in Tupelo, is one of America’s Top 10 National Parks. Guests can explore the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center and discover the parkway’s rich history and inhabitants.

If you stop in, be sure to pick up the “Natchez Trace Parkway” map/brochure issued by the US Park Service. We found it to be invaluable as we took our tour of the Trace.

📌 Drive the Natchez Trace north from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72; roughly 11 miles into Alabama from the Tennessee-Alabama state line.

Natchez Trace Parkway

It took us about three hours to drive the 50-some miles the Natchez Trace Parkway from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72, which included plenty of time to take in most of the roadside interpretive sites along the way. There is so much history along this route, spanning cultures across millenia, and it simply wouldn’t do it justice to bury it here at the end of an already lengthy post, so we ‘ll be covering it next week instead. Tune in next week to read all about our adventures in Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2 – Natchez Trace Parkway.

Day Trip from Memphis: Tupelo, Mississippi | The Good Hearted Woman

Coming up next week: 50 Miles of history along the Natchez Trace Parkway {Day Trip from Memphis: Part 2}

📌Return to Memphis: Fill up your gas tank and grab a snack in one of the towns along Highway 72. (We stopped in Corinth, Mississippi.) Travel time back to Memphis from the Natchez Trace / Hwy 72 interchange is about 2 hours [128 Miles]. [Route: Hwy 72 to Hwy 385 to I-240 to I-69.]

DAY TRIP ITINERARY: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

Short Version

To arrive in Tupelo by 9am, plan to hit the road in Memphis about 7:15 am. Eat a little something for breakfast before you leave to tide you over.
Drive from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississipppi via I-22 [Travel time: 1 hour, 40 min. – 108 mi.]
Stop in at Connie’s Chicken for a carb-intensive second breakfast of fried chicken, warm biscuits, gravy, and fresh blueberry donuts.
From Connie’s, go directly to the Tupelo Visitors Center. Take a quick look around, play with the interactive kids’ map, and pick up relevant informational brochures; including Elvis Driving Tour and Elvis Guitar Tour maps.
Drive to the “Birthplace of Elvis.” You can purchase tickets inside the lobby. The earlier you arrive here, the better: this is the Big tourist attraction in town and it gets busy quickly.
After completing your tour of Elvis’ Birthplace, head over to Johnnie’s Drive-In and have a little snack or a root beer float in the “Elvis Booth.”
Next stop: Downtown Tupelo.
Visit the Tupelo Hardware Store, where Elvis purchased his first guitar for $7.
Stroll Downtown Tupelo and check out the cool local shops and murals.
Drive (or walk) to the Tupelo FairPark, where you can enjoy the wide open-space, the Elvis Homecoming statue, city hall, a small children’s park, and a small but refreshing splash pad.
Head over to the Tupelo Automobile Museum and spend an hour or so motoring through the past.
Grab a late lunch at the Neon Pig before heading back to Memphis via the Natchez Trace Parkway. (Be sure to try the potato salad!)
Stop by the Natchez Trace Parkway Visitors Center just outside of Tupelo. Be sure to pick up the “Natchez Trace Parkway” map/brochure issued by the US Park Service.
Drive the Natchez Trace north from Tupelo to where it intersects with Highway 72; roughly 11 miles into Alabama from the Tennessee-Alabama state line.
Fill up your gas tank and grab a snack in one of the towns along Highway 72. (We stopped in Corinth, Mississippi.)
Travel time back to Memphis from the Natchez Trace / Hwy 72 interchange is about 2 hours [128 Miles]. [Route: Hwy 72 to Hwy 385 to I-240 to I-69.]

Total Round-trip Mileage (not including driving all over Tupelo) = 300 miles.

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One Day in Ashland, Oregon

July 12 By Renée ♥ 24 Comments

Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

Ashland, Oregon is more than just a touristy little town with a world-class repertory theater and a pretty park. It is a place where culture and memories run deep, creative inspiration is bountiful, local cuisine is celebrated, and Shakespeare reigns.

I still remember the first play I ever attended in Ashland, many years ago in the Angus Bowmer Theater. It was “Our Town,” Thorton Wilder’s 1938 classic play-within-a-play, set in fictional Grover’s Corners around the turn of the 20^th century. I went with my favorite aunt, who had been raised in a small town not unlike Grover’s Corners, adding yet another layer to Wilder’s theatrical onion and offering us abundant fodder for our post-theater conversation. That weekend, in addition to strolling the shops and lunching in Lithia Park, we attended Shakespeare’s “Taming of Shrew” and George Bernard Shaw’s “Major Barbara” as well. I recall the three days we spent in Ashland as some of my fondest times with my Auntie.

Recently, I’ve had a number of opportunities to revisit Ashland, and while much has changed in the years between my first play and my most recent, much remains the same: the beautiful scenery, the vibrant arts scene, and above all, the cheerful, welcoming community.

If you are planning a visit to Ashland, here are a few must-dos to put at the top of your list:

Stroll: Lithia Park

“One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.”
– from Troilus and Cressida

With ninety-some acres of well-maintained paths, lush green lawns, two duck ponds, a Japanese garden, a formal rose garden, wide open spaces, tennis and badminton courts, and picnic areas, Lithia Park has something for everyone. Set in the center of Ashland adjacent to the theater area, this 125-year city park is daily from dawn until 11pm.

A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Butler-Perozzi Fountain

If you are the sort of person who likes to have a plan, I suggest that you check out the Lithia Park Trail Guide online. Printed guides are also available for purchase at the following locations:

Ashland Parks & Recreation Office, The Grove, 1195 E. Main St.
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Kiosk, on the Plaza in Ashland
Ashland Chamber of Commerce Office, 110 E Main St

Rejuvenate [or maybe not]: Lithia Water

“Glory is like a circle on the water, which never ceaseth to enlarge itself, till, by broad spreading, it disperses to naught.”
– from Henry VI, Part 1

In the early 1900s, the residents of Ashland discovered that their town sat smack next to a lithium-rich spring. At the time, lithium was being touted as a health tonic, and the city tried to capitalize on this trend by building a health spa. Soon however, plans were abandoned as the lithium fad faded.

You can try lithium water today at the downtown Plaza at the northern most tip of Lithia Park, where a multi-spout “Lithia Water” fountain still stands.

Pro-Tip: Be forewarned – [in my opinion] Lithia Water tastes terrible, kind of like that egg salad you left in the fridge a couple too many days.

Discover: Downtown Ashland

“I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it.”
– from As You Like It

Downtown Ashland streets are lined with bright, cozy boutique shops offering a wide variety of goods, including home décor, artisan pottery, handcrafted jewelry and clothing, gourmet foods and wines, and art by both local and internationally recognized artists. Oh, and yarn. Lots and lots of beautiful yarn.

Nosh: Greenleaf Restaurant

“Tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers.”
– from Romeo & Juliet

The Greenleaf Restaurant has offered delicious vegetarian, vegan, organic, gluten-free, & carnivore dining options on Ashland’s Plaza for more than three decades. It’s a great place to pick up a fresh, locally sourced salad or tasty sandwich. Everything on the menu is available to go, and if you ask them nicely, they will even pack you a marvelous picnic lunch to take to Lithia Park!

Flashy Photo-op: Guanajuato Mural

“Live a little; comfort a little; cheer thyself a little.”
– from As You Like It

Dedicated in 2016, “Las Calles” [“The Streets”] was created to honor Ashland’s sister city of Guanajuato City, Guanajuato, Mexico. Located in downtown Ashland on the exterior side wall of Sesame Asian Kitchen restaurant facing Calle Guanajuanto, it represents a “kind of peace wall. A wall that connects two cultures, two cities, two nations.” [- Barry Thalen, mural patron]

Maybe we need more murals.

Marlynn [UrbanBlissLife.com] practices her cheer moves. She’s still got it, baby!

Sidelight: A mural depicting the highlights of Ashland was dedicated June, 2018 in Guanajuato, Mexico.

Fancy-Pants Eats: Larks

“Dost thou think, because thou are virtuous, there shall be no more cakes and ale?”
– from Twelfth Night

Surprisingly, Ashland is a little like the theater district in Manhattan, in that before showtime, restaurants fill up with well-heeled theater-goers out for a night on the town, and empty once the show doors begin to open. One of the most popular places in Ashland for a before-the-theater meal is Larks, located in the beautiful, historic Ashland Springs Hotel.

Larks offers diners a truly authentic Farm-to-Table experience. With seasonal ingredients delivered daily from local farms, Larks’ kitchen, under the direction of Executive Chef Franco Console, creates fresh, flavorful, innovative, regionally-inspired dishes that are the hallmark of fine Pacific Northwest cuisine.

One of Chef Franco’s guiding tenets is “know our farmers,” and he is passionate about creating a connection between his restaurant’s guests and local farmers, ranchers, distillers, and winemakers.

Larks (Pork Chop) - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

My halibut dinner at Larks was succulent and perfectly cooked. So good – I can’t believe I ate the whole thing!

Larks Restaurant {at Ashland Springs Hotel}
212 East Main Street
Ashland, OR 97520
541.488.5558

Out on the Town: Shakespeare & Beyond

I wonder if Angus Bowmer had a glimmer, when he put on Ashland’s first three-day Shakespeare Festival back in 1935, of what his vision would become, and how it would someday shape everything – from pop culture to politics – for his town and far beyond.

“There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”
– from Hamlet

Visiting Ashland during Shakespeare Festival season and not seeing at least one play is like visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. It simply isn’t done. But don’t worry if Shakespeare isn’t your jam, because the Festival puts on a broad selection of productions – everything from classic, long-bearded tragedies to fresh, provocative comedies to political activist dramas, and everything in between. There is sure to be something on the lineup that will bring you to your feet.

With a season that now stretches from February to October, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is the largest repertory theater in the United States. Visit the OSF website for information about tickets and plays.

Allen Elizabethan Theater - A Day in Ashland, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Empty stage, ready for ‘Beauty and the Beast.’ [There are no photos allowed during the actual play.]

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^{Disclosure: My dinner at Larks and ticket to Beauty and the Beast were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail

May 29 By Renée ♥ 11 Comments

Take a drive on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

Whether you are on a quest for the perfect bottle of Oregon wine or just want to take a beautiful drive through Southern Oregon back-country, you’ll find what you’re looking for on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail.

Extending for 50 miles, from the California border to Grants Pass along the Applegate River, the fertile Applegate Valley is home to “fragrant lavender fields, meticulous small family farms growing organic produce, roaming herds of grass-fed cattle, and numerous vineyards and wineries.“[Applegate Valley Wine Trail]

The Applegate Valley Wine Trail includes eighteen unique member wineries that produce a diverse array of wines. Today, we’re sharing some highlights from four of those wineries – a perfect itinerary for a day of sightseeing and wine-tasting!

Wooldridge Creek Winery, Creamery & Charcuterie
Troon Vineyard
Schmidt Family Vineyards
Red Lily Vineyards

Troon Vineyard: Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon Travel} | The Good Hearted Woman

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

Specialties: Small batch estate wines, sustainability and stewardship, congenial conversation, artisan cheeses, and charcuterie.

First established as a “hobby” vineyard back in the ’70’s, Wooldridge Creek has evolved over the decades into a thriving vineyard, winery, creamery and charcuterie business. Owners Ted, Mary, Greg, and Kara adhere to seven-generation principles, a philosophy that is clearly reflected in their dedication to both community and stewardship of the land.

At Wooldridge Creek, their commitment to sustainability is at the heart of everything they do. They take their role as stewards of the land seriously, and have maintained certifications for the Salmon Safe and LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) programs as well as Pacific Power’s Blue Sky Renewable Energy Program for over a decade. They also participate in their local watershed protection association.

On a personal note, this was one of the friendliest, most welcoming tasting rooms we’ve visited – I could have hung out there all day! (I went back twice in one month, if that says anything.) The grounds are beautiful, with broad, sweeping views of the valley; and the entire place has a much less “fussy” vibe than many tasting rooms do… in other words, it very much appealed to my inner hippie.

In a move very much in keeping with their role as “stewards of the land,” Wooldridge Creek opened their CrushPad Creamery in 2015, making it Oregon’s first joint creamery and winery. The creamery is located on the winery’s crush pad and offers visitors a chance to view the entire cheese making process. They currently source cow and goat milk from two local organic dairies, and make many styles of cheese, from fresh and soft to aged, hard cheeses.

In 2017, Wooldridge made another addition: charcuterie – fermenting local vegetables and curing a selection of meats – to their repertoire. They offer three platters to complement their wine flights: a cheese platter, a charcuterie platter, or a combination of the two.

Wooldridge Creek has 56 acres planted in twelve varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo.

When you visit, be sure to say hello to the winery cat!

Wooldridge Creek Winery
818 Slagle Cr. Rd
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541.846.6364
admin@wcwinery.com

Tasting Room Hours: 11-5 Daily
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

Four Scenic Stops on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail {Southern Oregon} #traveloregon #travelsouthernoregon Click To Tweet

TROON VINEYARD

Specialties: Zinfandels, unique blends, and “Good Times & Fine Wines”

In 1972, Dick Troon planted one of the first vineyards in the Applegate Valley. Since that time, the Troon estate has grown to 100 acres with over 40 acres of grapes planted. Known for their signature Zinfandels and unique blends, they are also pioneering varietals such as Vermentino and Tannat. (Their Druid Fluids blend is especially popular.)

The exceptionally well-kept grounds give visitors plenty of options for relaxing, including bocce ball courts, picnic tables, and a giant chess game. Guests can play while they enjoy a plate of cheeses and a glass of wine… or they can just sit back and take in the view.

It has always been my assertion that everything tastes better when served with a smile, and Troon wines definitely support this claim. In the last year, Mr B and I have visited both Troon tasting rooms a couple of times, and found their staff to be enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and exceptionally friendly. (BIG kudos to the team in Carlton – they are amazing!)

Troon Vineyard
1475 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, Oregon 97527
541.846.9900
tastingroom@troonvineyard.com

Troon Carlton Wine Bar
250 N. Kutch Street
Carlton, OR 97111
503.852.3084
carlton@troonvineyard.com

Tasting Room Hours: Open Daily 11 am – 5 pm, June-Aug 11 am – 6 pm
Tasting Fee: $10
(Refunded With Purchase)

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Big reds, country charm, wood-fired pizza, beautiful gardens, and Northwest ambience

Wine and wine making have always been a passion for Cal Schmidt, and in 2000 with the purchase of the old Bennett Ranch on the fertile Kubli Bench, he and his wife Judy realized his lifelong dream of owning a vineyard.

What struck me most about Schmidt Family Vineyards was the care and attention that have been put creating a “complete experience.” In addition to the vineyards themselves, there is a large, picturesque pond, several acres of herb and flower gardens, gazebos, and numerous walking paths for visitors to use as they unwind and enjoy in a beautiful, relaxing setting.

The Craftman-style tasting room at Schmidt Family Vineyards is absolutely stunning.

In addition to their estate wines, Schmidt Family Vineyards offers a quality menu to enhance your wine tasting experience as well, with all food made to order using farm fresh ingredients. We found the wood-fired pizzas to be quite tasty! (Their website also shares recipes, complete with tasting notes!)

Schmidt Family Vineyards

330 Kubli Road
Grants Pass, OR 97527
541-846-9985

schmidt@sfvineyards.com

Tasting Room Hours: 7 days a week from 12-5pm. Open on Fridays from 12-8pm.
Food is served 12-4:30 pm, Thurs-Monday
Tasting Fee: $10 for the Vintner Flight & $12 for the Garden Flight (served in test tubes for easily touring the gardens).
The Vintner’s Flight is complimentary to Wine Club Members. The Garden Flight is 50% off for Wine Club Members.

RED LILY VINEYARDS

Specialties: Spanish Centric Wines, scenic fall color, and cozy conversation.

Red Lily Vineyards is a small, family-owned winery committed to a single goal — producing the finest Spanish-inspired wines possible. Owners Les and Rachael Martin fell in love with Spanish wines years ago, and have “made it their life’s work to cultivate the highest quality wines possible.”

Like all many of the vineyards in the Applegate Valley, you can visit Red Lily Vineyards anytime, but I highly recommend that you put them on your fall wine-tour itinerary when the autumn chill sets the grounds ablaze with vibrant color.

Red Lily’s tasting room is a beautiful example of architectural reclamation. With views of both the valley and the Applegate River, this former feeder barn turned tasting room offers guests both inside and outside seating, an outdoor fireplace, and outdoor heaters to stay warm and cozy. When we visited, we found the prices to be reasonable and the tasting room staff extremely helpful.

Wine flights are served in a test-tube rack, which initially seemed a bit strange, but as it turned out, made a very practical presentation.

Varietals produced by Red Lily Vineyards include Albarino, Grenache, Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional.

Red Lily Vineyards

Les and Rachael Martin, Owners
11777 Hwy. 238
Jacksonville OR 97530

Phone: (541) 846-6800
Fax: (541) 846-0601
info@redlilyvineyards.com

Winter Hours (Nov-Apr) Thursday – Sunday
11:00 am – 5:00 pm

Summer Hours (May-Oct) Daily
11:00 am -5:00 pm

Tasting Fee: $5
(Refunded With Purchase of 2 Bottles of Wine)

THANK YOU so much for being a faithful reader and supporter of The Good Hearted Woman. ❤ Be sure to PIN this post!

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^{Disclosure: My visit to Wooldridge Creek, Schmidt, and Troon Wineries, including tastings, were complimentary as part of a Travel Oregon press trip. As always, all opinions and images are my own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

One Day in Old San Juan {Puerto Rico}

April 20 By Renée ♥ 19 Comments

Old San Juan is replete with amazing history, old world charm, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

^{This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.}
Last month, Mr B and I celebrated our anniversary with a cruise in the eastern Caribbean (she says, casually flipping her hair back, like she takes a cruise every other week). Unlike Mr B, who took a few Caribbean cruises on his own courtesy of the US Navy, I had never even been in the Atlantic Ocean before, much less the Caribbean, so it was a whole new world for me.

Panarama: San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Our week-long cruise took us to ports in Grand Turk, St Thomas, Bahamas, and Puerto Rico, where we had a whole day to wander Old San Juan at our leisure. Coincidentally, our anniversary fell on the day our ship ported in San Juan, and it was a perfect place to celebrate.

Before we go on; a few thoughts on Old San Juan, post-Maria

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I was a little concerned before we departed on our trip about what we might find in Puerto Rico, which is still trying to recover after Hurricane Maria swept through and ravaged the island last fall. The reality is, while clean-up efforts have made great progress, there is plenty of structural damage still in evidence, and things are still not up and running as they should be. For example, just this week, they experienced an island-wide blackout as construction companies worked through technical issues to restore electrical services to residents.

However, much of the island’s economy relies on tourism, and it’s obvious that a great deal of effort and man-hours have gone into rehabilitating the Old San Juan area, which is within easy walking distance of the cruise ship ports. So while it isn’t yet quite as bright and shiny as it once was, Old San Juan is still replete with amazing history – the kind you can literally walk up a touch! – plus charming, colorful architecture, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms. [April, 2018]

One Day in Old San Juan: What to do on Your #Cruise Stop 🌺 #PuertoRico #PuertoRicoTravel #ExploreTheWorld #CruiseStop #Travel Click To Tweet

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour

When we arrived in San Juan, Mr B and I chose to forego all of the shore excursions offered by the cruise, and instead stepped out on our own to explore what Old San Juan had to offer. If you decide to go on a walking tour as we did, all you really need is a pair of comfortable walking shoes, a little cash (for street vendors), some serious sun protection, and your phone or camera.

European history on the island began in 1493, when Christopher Columbus landed there and named the island “San Juan Bautista,” in honor of John the Baptist. Subsequently, in 1508, the Spanish government appointed Juan Ponce de León as the first governor of the island. He founded the original settlement in Caparra (now known as Pueblo Viejo), and city soon became Spain’s most important military outpost in the Caribbean.

A few years later, the original settlement was relocated to a nearby coastal islet and christened Puerto Rico [Rich Port]. At that point, some confusion arose and somehow there was a name switch; from that time forward, the island has been known as Puerto Rico, and the town, San Juan.

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico | The Good Hearted Woman

Monumento al Inmigrante (the Immigrant) stands just west of the cruise port near San Juan Bay.

The first stop on our walking tour was at the Puerto Rico Tourism Company near the end of Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, where we picked up a map of Old San Juan, as well as some very helpful information about getting around the city during the hurricane restoration efforts. (There are also many maps of Old San Juan online: we found this map from Mappery to be particularly helpful.) You can also find large display maps of Old San Juan sprinkled all around the city.

Paseo de La Princesa Promenade

We started our walking tour with a stroll down Paseo de La Princesa Promenade, which was originally built in 1853. When I first heard the name of this relaxing, tree-lined boulevard, I thought to myself, “Oh, how nice… ‘Walkway of the Princess.'” Then I learned that the name has far darker origins.

Paseo de la Princesa is, in fact, named for an infamous prison called La Princesa that was once housed in and beneath what is now the Puerto Rico Tourism Company. During business hours, you can take a free tour of the cells, and even see where prisoners were tortured and shot. However, when the docent at the Tourism Company reception desk mentioned that people often experience “weird things” when they walk through the old prison, we (mostly me) decided to skip it. (Not because I expected to see/hear/feel anything weird, of course. Because that never happens to me. Ever.)

The walk along the promenade takes you by a rather interesting sculpture garden, home to a wide variety of religious and secular sculptures.

Raices Fountain (aka “Roots Fountain”)

The Raíces Fountain [aka “Roots Fountain”] at the end of Paseo de la Pricesa, is considered to be one of the most romantic spots in Old San Juan. I wish we could have gotten closer, because some of pictures I’ve seen of the fountain up close are stunning; unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the street was blocked off while hurricane restoration efforts were being completed on the waterfront. (I took this image while leaning over the barricade. 📷)

The fountain, completed in 1992, was designed by architect Miguel Carlo to commemorate and celebrate the New World’s 500th anniversary. The collection of bronzes honors Puerto Rico’s mixed African, Spanish and Taino/Amerindian heritage.

Cathedral of San Juan Bautista

Built on the site where the body of Ponce de Leon is entombed, the the Cathedral de San Juan Bautista was the first cathedral church in the Americas, and is an authentic example of classic medieval architecture. The original cathedral was constructed from wood in 1521, but was destroyed by a hurricane and rebuilt in 1540, with improvements and renovations taking place over the centuries, the last time being in 1917.

Parks, Plazas, Monuments & Fountains

It seems that everywhere you go in Old San Juan, there’s another park, plaza, monument, or fountain. This little park across the street from Cathedral of San Juan Bautista is populated with some of the most peculiarly whimsical statues in the city.

Old San Juan is only three square miles, with four-hundred Spanish 16th and 17th century colonial-style buildings lining its narrow streets.

Inside the Old City Wall

San Juan is known as La Ciudad Amurallada (the walled city), and is one of the largest natural harbors in the Caribbean. Originally built to protect the city from foreign invaders and ransacking pirates, the fortress-like walls around Old San Juan are up to forty-two feet tall and up to forty-five feet thick at the base. You can see how the wall runs the entire length of the waterfront in the image below.

The views from atop the wall are nearly endless.

If you walk along the topmost part of the wall along Paseo Del Morro, you will find a small, shady plaza that faces the water. There you can see La Rogativa, a sculpture created by Lindsay Daen to mark San Juan’s 450th anniversary. Paying tribute to a legend borne during a siege in 1797, it portrays a bishop and three women carrying torches in a religious procession. It seems, according to the legend, that the light from the torches caused the British invaders to think they were seeing Spanish reinforcements coming, so they turned and fled.

La Puerta de San Juan

La Puerta de San Juan [The San Juan Gate] is the main gate in Old San Juan’s wall. (You can’t miss it – it’s bright red!) The last remaining of Old San Juan’s six original gates, it was for centuries locked each day at sundown to ward off enemy attacks. An inscription (in Latin) above the door reads: “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord.” Today, if you walk through it from inside the city, you’ll be rewarded with a lovely view of the San Juan Bay on the other side.

La Puerta de San Juan ~ “The San Juan Gate”

San Felipe del Morro

Castillo San Felipe del Morro was first constructed back in 1539 as protection for the city of San Juan from seaborne enemies. The uphill walk there is totally worth the effort, as it offers an amazing, panoramic views of the city and coastline.

San Felipe del Morro, as seen from our cruise ship.

Hiking up to Castillo de Cristóbal from Old San Juan | The Good Hearted Woman

Hiking up to San Felipe del Morro from Old San Juan

The symmetry of this shot makes me so happy!

Cats of San Juan

One thing you are sure to see in Old San Juan is cats. Everywhere. Hundreds of feral cats live in the city and roam the streets and the waterfront.

A grass-roots group, Save a Gato (cat), supports the well-being of San Juan’s feral cats. They provide them with food and water, and also trap, neuter, vaccinate, and release them.

A cat needs a name, so I called her Audrey. In a sea of sullied strays, she was poised, regal, and stunning.

As we wandered the side streets of Old San Juan, we saw pans of cat food and lean, lazy cats lying everywhere.

Barrachina: Birthplace of the Piña Coloda

We concluded our day in Old San Juan with a celebratory dinner at Barrachina, the birthplace of the piña colada.

I can’t conclusively verify that Barrachina is really “the first” place on earth where someone was inspired to blend ice, coconut, pineapple, and rum into a heavenly, refreshing beverage, but they have a plaque on the front of the restaurant that says it, so it must be true. Regardless, I can unequivocally testify (from intense personal research) that they serve up a pretty delicious piña colada. 😉

Mr B and I usually try to avoid deep-fried anything, but these Grouper fritters (lightly breaded with coconut) just called out to me from the menu, and once they arrived at our table, we were both extremely happy that we ordered them. Served with a side of tarter sauce and fresh lime, they were sweet, tender, and perfectly fried.

Mofongo was easily the most unique (to us) thing we ate on our trip. A Puerto Rican specialty, mofongo is made with mashed fried green plantain, seasoned with garlic and spices, and formed into a dome or bowl. At Barrachina, it is served with your choice of toppings, which include steak, chicken, vegetables, seafood, or shrimp.

Mr B and I both had the Shrimp Mofongo, which was far more filling than we had anticipated. (I’m sure the two piña coladas we had while we waited for our meal had nothing at all to do with that!) In retrospect, although it was very tasty, a single mofongo plate would have been more than enough. Needless to say, we took a to-go bag home for late night snacking on the ship. Win-win!

All Aboard! 🚢

If you are visiting Old San Juan via cruise ship, be sure to take in the views while you are waiting to for the ship to embark. I captured this stunning sunset while sitting on our balcony.

Although Mr B and I didn’t feel the need to use it when we were there, it’s good to know that Old San Juan provides a free trolley service all around the city. The trolley runs every day Monday through Friday from 7am until 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am until 7pm every 15 minutes. You can also rent a bicycle and helmet near the cruise port for the day for a very reasonable price.

Thank you so much for being a faithful reader and supporter of The Good Hearted Woman. ❤ Be sure to Pin this post!

Click here for more information about Old San Juan.
^{Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they do help keep this site up and running, and at the same time allow us to keep traditional advertising to a minimum. As always, all opinions and images are my own. Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa: Your Perfect Oregon Coast Getaway

April 13 By Renée ♥ 14 Comments

Head Out. Stay In. Whatever you choose, you’ll discover your perfect Oregon coastal getaway at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City.

Sunset at Haystack Rock, Pacific City, Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Pacific City sunsets can be spectacular. {Image taken 2.25.2017}

When I was a little girl, I lived on the Oregon coast for five glorious summers. One of my most enduring memories from that time is of standing on the edge of the world, looking out into the great vastness of the Pacific Ocean and wondering if somewhere out there, there was a little girl on the other side of the water looking out and wondering about me.

Last month, Mr B and I were invited to stay at the newly opened Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City, Oregon, and as I sat outside on our room’s lovely little private balcony enjoying a few moments of splendid solitude, I found myself once again looking out into that great unknown, and listening to the wind race and the waves crash, and remembering those two little girls an ocean and a lifetime away.

^{Many thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. This post may contain affiliate links.}

Headlands Coastal Lodge: Unpretentious Luxury & Oregon Hospitality

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa is a stunningly beautiful destination, expressly designed as a place to relax, recharge, restore, and rediscover. From the moment you walk through the massive glass and wood front doors, you will find yourself surrounded by warm hospitality, rich wood finishings, and unpretentious luxury.

Located adjacent to Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area in Pacific City, Headlands Coastal Lodge has been twenty years in the making. Owners Mary Jones and Jeff Shons spent those years designing and redesigning the lodge, with the goal of creating a luxury destination that takes full advantage of the Oregon Coast’s rugged natural beauty, and highlights the incredible views of Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock.

You can find the personal influences of Mary Jones and Jeff Schons throughout the lodge. For example, the “Haystack Rock Wall“ showcases a rotating collection of the work by local artists – all featuring the iconic rock. Local art lines the halls and adorns room walls as well.

Mary, who teaches cooking classes to lodge visitors, keeps a kitchen garden just off this gorgeous, hardwood hall.

“Stay In”

Each and every one of the 33 oceanfront rooms at Headlands comes with a balcony and an unobstructed view of Haystack Rock (the Pacific City one, not the Cannon Beach one). {Editorial: As a lifetime Oregonian, I have never understood why a state with nearly thirty names for rain cannot come up with two unique names for two geographically distinct monolithic rocks adjacent to the beach. C’mon, people!}

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa | The Good Hearted Woman

The view from our balcony. [Room 111]

Uniquely, Pacific City is one of the few places in Oregon where you can drive right out onto the beach. Automobile beach access is literally right next door to Headlands, making it particularly appealing for those who may have mobility challenges. Mr B and I are seriously considering bringing my 92-year old mom for a stay so that she can enjoy the beach she loves so much one more time.

Mattress firmness is always a personal issue. That being said, Mr B and I sleep on a lot of hotel mattresses, so I can say with some authority that the mattresses at Headlands are some of the most comfortable we’ve ever slept on.

Mr B and I were absolutely fascinated with the glass-walled shower in our room. The cast iron soaking tub is comfortably sloped and long enough to stretch out in, and generously accommodating for both solo or companion bathing. One of us (not naming names or anything) took both a shower and a bath in one night!

Let’s take a closer look at this shower set-up, shall we? I mean, this is so cool! You can stand in the shower and look out onto the beach – while you shower!!

Our room came with a host of luxury amenities. Mr B and I were both intrigued with the high-tech “Do Not Disturb/Make Up This Room” door card system. To alert resort staff that you are away and your room is ready to be made up, guests need only press “Heading Out” on a switch just inside their room’s entry door to light up a small green “go” light on the room number placard in the hall outside. Conversely, pressing “Staying In” lights up a red “stop” light, letting staff know that you’d like some privacy.

Additional room amenities include a gas fireplace, Bonavita brewing system and freshly ground coffee, Smith tea service and tea kettle, bluetooth lantern speaker, in-room safe, iPad for requesting services, and complimentary WiFi. Well-placed bike hooks and surfboard racks can also be found in every room. In fact, I couldn’t think of a single thing they forgot to include, but if I had, I’m pretty sure someone would have gotten it for us!

As if there weren’t already enough to love about this place, the entire lodge, as well as many of the guest rooms, are dog-friendly!

Cackling Geese ~ Spirit of Headlands

Everywhere you turn at Headlands, you will see the subtle influence of the cackling geese: soaring gracefully across the wrought-iron front door pulls, the front entry desk, the room placards and restaurant menus; even the art on the guest room walls. The cackling geese not only provide a striking logo image, but offer a metaphor for the spirit that Headlands espouses: rugged, beautiful, and ready for adventure. We found the background on these exceptional birds quite interesting.

Pacific City is the only wintering spot in the world of the Semidi Island Aleutian Cackling Geese. Each year, the geese fly south more than 2,000 miles from their small Alaskan nesting islands to Oregon’s North Coast. Every evening during their annual Pacific City stay, they leave the grassy pastures in the Nestucca Valley and soar across a mile of ocean to roost on Haystack Rock—the same towering monolith that Headlands guests can see from their rooms and cottage.

~ Headlands Coastal Lodge

Headlands offers guests surprises around every corner. The stunning “live metal” in the image above can be found in the main lobby’s huge, gender-neutral restroom. {The picture simply doesn’t do it justice.}

Each of the lodge’s three floors also has a “honor pantry,” well-stocked with top-shelf snacks and local favorites, like as Tillamook Ice Cream pints and One Fork Farm Caramels. (Oh. My. Goodness. Seriously, if you haven’t tried One Fork Farm Caramels yet, do so immediately! They are amazing! ➢ Not a sponsored plug – just way too good to not share.)

“Head Out”

Most luxury hotels offer complementary concierge service, but Headlands, embracing the adventurous Pacific Northwest spirit, takes the idea to the next level. “Adventure Coaches” help guests plan specialized outdoor adventures – everything from kayaking, clamming, and cooking classes to hiking, biking, and beach bonfires. (Don’t worry if you didn’t bring a bike: you can get a loaner in the lobby.) They’ll even pack you a lunch from the hotel restaurant!

Tidepools Spa & Wellness Center

Whether you’re in the mood for a good workout, a relaxing soak, or just some quality “me-time,” Headlands in-house spa and wellness center can accommodate your needs.

Tidepools offers both indoor and outdoor exercise options, including a well-stoked weight room, Pilates classes, beach yoga, and surf lessons. (Yes folks, we really do surf here in Oregon.)

If you’re in the mood to relax, you can get a massage or facial, or take a soak in the outdoor hot tub and enjoy the striking ocean view.

Meridian

Meridian at Headlands offers guests a Pacific Northwest-focused menu in a casually elegant setting. Ingredients are locally sourced from the ocean, local farmers, and Mary’s Herb Garden. (I’ll be posting more about Meridian, as well as a recipe from Executive Chef Andrew Garrison, in upcoming posts.) Briefly, the meals we had there were fresh, well-composed, and beautifully presented.

Finally, as far as Oregon coastal accommodations go, Headlands has a decidedly high-end price-tag, but Mr B and I both agree that it is well worth it. Headlands Coastal Lodge would be a perfect destination for a special occasion or well-earned getaway… or when you just need to stare out into the ocean for hours on a windy winter evening and wonder who’s on the other side of the world.

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa

33000 Cape Kiwanda Drive
Pacific City, OR 97135
(503) 483-3000

^{Disclosure: Thanks to the Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa for hosting our stay. As always, all opinions and photos (except as noted) are our own. This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that we have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any extra money, they will help us keep this site up and running – and (relatively) ad-free!! Please check out our disclosure policy for more details. Thank you for your support!}

Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon}

March 15 By Renée ♥ 9 Comments

Visitors to Orenco Woods Nature Park can choose from wide variety of activities, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, picnicking, and enjoying the native wildlife. (Oh, and hangin’ out with giant Twig People. Don’t about forget them.)

Last weekend was absolutely Bea-u-tiful here in the Pacific Northwest, so Mr B and I decided to go and explore Orenco Woods Nature Park, a new westside neighborhood park that has been getting a lot of local press attention lately. Here’s just one reason for all the buzz…

But I’ll get back to Hungry Twig Guy later. First, let me take you on a tour around the park.

Orenco Woods Nature Park is a large neighborhood park located in Hillsboro, Oregon, about 30 minutes west of Portland. The 42-acre park is situated on the site of a former nine-hole golf course, between Orchard Park upstream and Noble Woods Park downstream. Rock Creek flows through the park, and Rock Creek Trail snakes through it.

There is a big, open playground near the entrance to the park, with restrooms and drinking fountains for visitors, as well as a large covered picnic area.

This concrete stream channel was one of my favorite features of the playground – it runs downhill alongside one long side of the playground, with strategically placed water pumps set along the “stream bed” that allow kids to feed into the stream with running water during warm weather months, with the water pouring back into Rock Creek after it runs its course. The playground also features sand areas, logs, a large net climber and swings.

The “real” Orenco Apple is a high-quality dessert apple that was introduce to the world c.1840 by the Oregon Nursery Company. The apple is prized for its tender, crisp and juicy flesh, and sweet, piquant flavor.

Rock Creek Trail - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

“The Orenco Apple”

Malcolm McDonald House {Est. 1910}

The McDonald House, which sets inside Orenco Woods Nature Park near the park entrance, was built by Oregon Nursery Company Co-founder Malcolm McDonald. Mr. McDonald erected the sprawling Craftsman-style home in 1912, and his business then sold smaller lots to its employees, who built their own houses nearby.

I had some brief contact with the McDonald house back in the early 2000’s when one of my Girl Scout Troops (I had four) did some volunteer work there. At that time, the house was being used as a shelter and home for young, single mothers. The shelter closed in 2012 when the organization that ran it moved to another location.

Despite the fences, I was glad to see that Hillsboro is taking steps to restore it to its former glory. Planners have proposed exhibiting Orenco’s history in the house and renting it out for private events such as weddings.

In 2015, the McDonald House was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Walking the Rock Creek Nature Trail

A segment of the paved, ADA-accessible Rock Creek Trail runs through the park, connecting to Orchard Park and to the Rock Creek Trailhead at Rock Creek Boulevard just north of Highway 26. You can also walk the much shorter loop around the Orenco Woods Nature Park using the park’s graveled Habitat Trail. Bicycles and on-leash dogs are allowed on the paved trails, but not on the habitat trails [wood chip and gravel].

Arched Bridge - Orenco Woods Nature Park {Hillsboro, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

This is one of my favorite pictures of the day. The little two boys on the bridge were doing their darnest to beat their Dad racing across the bridge, and all three were having so much fun!

At certain times of day, the bridge cast some pretty interesting shadows.

Orenco Woods Nature Park offers visitors a variety of experiences: rolling hills, open meadows, riparian habitat, and forested areas that are home to a variety of birds and wildlife.

As we walked through the park, Mr B reminisced about the times he had golfed there in years past. “That course was always so wet. I remember that there was a par-three hole where you teed off from a box uphill to a mounded green below. When it was rainy, the green would be entirely surrounded by water.” No wonder the golf course didn’t last too long!

Now that we’ve made it around the park, let’s circle back to that giant face made out of twigs…

Woven Willow and Red Twig Dogwood Branch Sculptures

This guy is just one of seven 18-foot tall faces that guard a line of old growth Doug firs along the stretch of main path that runs from the park entrance to the large arched bridge.

Created by artist Patrick Dougherty (along with a battalion of volunteers), the interactive art installation is constructed entirely from locally obtained twigs and branches.

The piece was initially inspired by masks and totems of Northwest indigenous peoples; however, inspirations changed along the way. Says Dougherty, “they morphed during the building process into caricatures of human surprise. The arrangement of elements corrals the trees and creates among them a room of ancient tree trunks, thick and luxurious. Perhaps this invitation to rub shoulders with the craggy bark of such oldsters is the best part of the work. At the last minute, a hint of the heads of Easter Island statuary emerged as we fitted each head with a suitable hat.”

More than 150 volunteers contributed over 1000 hours to create this monumental, interactive sculpture. [Click here to watch the Stickwork Project Time Lapse Video on YouTube.]

In addition to hiking the Rock Creek Trail and hanging out with giant Twig People, visitors can choose from wide variety of activities at the park, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, and picnicking. Or kick back and enjoy the native wildlife: great blue heron, beavers, red-tail hawks, black-tailed deer, and more all make their homes along Rock Creek and in the adjacent wetlands.

Visitor Information

Orenco Woods Nature Park

7100 NE Birch Street

Hillsboro, Oregon

Orenco Woods Field Guide [Oregon Metro]

Orenco Woods Nature Park is open from sunrise to sunset seven days a week.
The park has restrooms and a large picnic area, as well as a number of smaller, more informal gathering spots.
Significant portions of the park are wheelchair accessible, including the Rock Creek Trail.
Pets are allowed on the Rock Creek Trail portions of the park, but must be on-leash at all times and are not allowed anywhere else at the park.
Don’t bring drones, model planes, model boats and other remote-controlled vehicles – they are not allowed. (Neither is hunting, but do I really need to tell you not to hunt in a park filled with dogs and people?) However, you are welcome to do all the geocaching your little heart desires!

Please leave a comment below! 🏞 What unique parks are in your neighborhood?

What We Learned When We Accidentally Stumbled Into the National Basque Festival {Buffalo, Wyoming}

February 28 By Renée ♥ 12 Comments

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

The only real connection to the North American Basque community that I personally have is an impossibly thin thread that runs from me through the amazing woman who taught me to ride horses to the Basque man she was married to for many years.

Rena was a former Miss Rodeo Oregon and beautiful beyond words. I was nine. She taught me to races barrels and jump hay bales and ride faster than the wind. She later married a man from the Nevada Basque community, and once while traveling with my parents to Arizona, we took a side trip to see her. One thing that still stands out to me about our visit – besides seeing Rena and her new baby – was the vast, arid landscape of the Nevada range and the half an hour we had to wait on the dusty dirt road while the largest herd of sheep I have ever seen passed across in front of us.

Ever since that long-ago visit, I’ve had a mild fascination with the unique, mysterious Basque community. So when Mr B and I motored into Buffalo, Wyoming last summer for lunch and saw the “North American Basque Festival” banners hanging across Main Street, I was intrigued and excited to see what was happening.

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basques are an “indigenous ethnic group,” unique unto themselves, and may be the oldest ethnic group in Europe. Neither French nor Spanish, their homeland lies between the base of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, comprised of seven traditional provinces that bridge the border between Spain and France. Likewise, their unique language – which they call Euskara – is like no other language spoken in Europe – or the world.

When I was doing research for this post, I tried to find out how approximately how many people of Basque heritage now live in North America, but reported numbers varied wildly – from less than 100,000 to over a million. What I can tell you is most Basques in North America are descended from 19th century emigrants, and large Basque communities can be found across the western United States and in some Canadian provinces.

Basques began moving to Wyoming in the early 1900s to herd sheep, and the Buffalo continues to celebrate its long history with the Basque community. A small flock of bronze sheep and a bronze herding dog on Main Street remind visitors of Buffalo’s long history with the Basque community. As the plaque that accompanies the bronzes reads:

The heritage of the Basque people runs deep in the history of Johnson County [Wyoming]. Coming from a mountainous, agrarian culture in the area of the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, they took to the open range of Wyoming, bringing colorful traditions and a knowledge of raising sheep. They depended on their dogs, often Border Collies as companions and helper to protect and herd the sheep. The Basque farmers remain influential throughout this community to the present day.

Basques in the North America have embraced their new home, even as they continue to honor their unique heritage. One of the ways they do this is through the many gatherings and festivals that are held in small towns across “Basque country.”

The North American Basque Festival, sponsored by the North American Basque Organization [NABO], has been held annually since 1979, with the location rotating each year. (Buffalo, Wyoming will host the festival and convention again again in 2021.) The three-day festival includes traditional food, music, and dancing; and featured artisans and vendors all celebrating the Basque culture.

If you happen to be a knitter, crocheter, or spinner, you will love attending a Basque Festival! There were skeins and skeins of wool roving and beautiful, hand-dyed yarns for purchase everywhere!

The line for barbecued lamb was ridiculous, stretching for well over a block, to the great disappointment to Mr B. (I don’t eat lamb, so no tears here. It did smell delicious though.)

(Hungry for a traditional Basque meal? Try out this recipe for Basque Braised Chicken With Peppers [Chicken Basquaise].)

Everywhere we turned we saw lauburu motifs. The lauburu (or Basque cross) is a symbol of the Basque Country and the unity of the Basque people.

Basque Sheep Wagons

The coolest thing we saw at the Festival was the collection of “Karro kampos,’ or traditional Basque sheep wagons. Basque sheep wagons, which we learned are an invention of the American West, reached their height of popularity in the 1910’s. They continue to be used by some sheep herders, particularly in Idaho, even today.

No two wagons that we saw were exactly the same; however, as we peeked into each one, we noticed certain consistencies. For example, the door was always at the front of the wagon, and the bed was always at the back. Most vintage wagons (like the one below) had a wash-pan hanging on the door, a wood stove to the left of the door (going in), and a stove pipe coming out the top.

I love the detailing on this little cast iron wood stove. This wagon has a stove-pipe popping out the top.

Other wagons had more contemporary interiors, with gas stoves, up-to-date cabinetry, and tiled floors.

This wagon – proudly displayed by the 4th generation Basque family of George Etchemenoy – was a work of art. The attention to detail and fine craftsmanship on the wagon, along with the matching child-sized wagon and wooden tractor, was outstanding.

Check out the turquoise inlay on the front of the wooden tractor.

If you have the opportunity to attend a Basque festival, we enthusiastically encourage you to go – you will have a great time and probably learn something in the process! Visit the North American Basque Organization website to learn more.

Take a Romantic Winter Getaway to Hood River, Oregon

February 22 By Renée ♥ 10 Comments

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

This post may contain affiliate links, but don’t worry – they won’t bite.

Every year for Valentine’s Day, Mr B and I take a little romantic getaway. It doesn’t matter if the holiday falls in the middle of the week or on a weekend – we always take at least one day off and head for a quiet destination, usually close to home. This year, as we are wont to do, we headed for the Columbia Gorge.

We left for our getaway after work on a Tuesday afternoon, and drove up to the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River, arriving well after dark. Stepping into the lobby, we were promptly greeted by an amazingly friendly, enthusiastic hotel employee named Rick, who would act as our concierge, bell-hop, elevator operator, ice-bucket filler, doorman, and hotel historian during our stay.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel – once known as the “Waldorf of the West” – was built by Portland businessman and philanthropist Simon Benson in 1921. The elegant hotel has a rich history (complete with lots of ghost stories!), and at one time hosted such early film icons as Clara Bow, Rudolph Valentino, and Shirley Temple, as well as dignitaries like Presidents Roosevelt and Coolidge.

Our third floor King room was lovely, with a 180° view of the Columbia River, a large bathroom (by 1921 standards), and a little electric fireplace. Having stayed in a standard room at the Columbia Gorge Hotel the distant past, I can tell you with confidence that our King room was far superior to a standard room. Most notably, it was about twice as big: the space allotted for a standard in 1921 is what realtors like to call “charming” and “cozy.” The King room we stayed was about the same size as a contemporary standard mid-range hotel room.

Travel Tip: Weekday rates at the Columbia Gorge Hotel are often literally half that of weekend rates. If you can find the time during the week, it’s quite a deal!

The next morning when room service delivered our breakfast, we discovered that we had ordered twice as much food as we needed! Our breakfast croissants were huge, and each one came with a generous serving of O’Brien potatoes and an adorable little airplane-size bottle of ketchup. Everything arrived fresh, warm, and delicious. No worries about leftovers, either – after we finished eating, we popped our leftovers into the little room fridge to save for a midnight snack and set out to plan our day.

Mama Bear - Downtown Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Any other Mama Bears out there? 💚 {Sculpture by Ann Fleming; part of Hood River BIG ART Walking Tour}

We had a loose plan to spend the day touring and tasting at a few of the nearby wineries, so we started our tour in downtown Hood River Oregon, where we stopped in at a cool little espresso bar called Ground to enjoy a warm beverage while charted out our route. Being there on a Wednesday in the middle of winter made our choices very easy – only three of the fifteen or so wineries around the city of Hood River were open for us to visit.

Our first stop was Cathedral Ridge Winery, one of the only vineyards in Hood River with tasting room hours every day of the week year-round. The winery is located high above the Columbia on the west end of Hood River, with sweeping views of Mt. Adams to the north and Mt. Hood to the south west. We spent the better part of an hour in the Cathedral Ridge tasting room, where we were greeted warmly and treated like old friends. Pours for our tasting were generous, and extra varieties were introduced as we discussed our preferences with our attentive and knowledgeable host.

Winery - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

The views from Hood River Oregon wine country are tranquil and relaxing.

After we finished our tasting and purchased a few bottles to take home, we wandered outside to enjoy a walk around the grounds, where wooden benches and outdoor tables set up for picnickers dot the property. The middle of February was a little too chilly for a picnic though, so we instead opted for a quick selfie before we got back in the car.

Me & Me B - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Look! We took a selfie!

We next ventured a little farther out into the country, where we found the Phelps Creek tasting room, which like Cathedral Ridge is open daily and year-round. The tasting room is located on the beautiful Hood River Golf Course, the features wines produced from nearby Estate-grown grapes. This small boutique winery focuses on estate grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; annually producing 5,000 cases total of all varietals.

One of the things Mr B and I like best about going out with just a tissue-paper plan is you just never know who or what will happen to surprise you. While we were visiting with the host at Phelps Creek, tasting room associate and sports photographer Brian Robb walked in, sat down at the bar and introduced himself. We were in no hurry, so we spent the next half hour chatting with Brian about some of the events he has shot around the world; in particular his experiences photographing World Skiing Racing Championships and the Olympic Winter Games. We thoroughly enjoyed both the company and the conversation at Phelps Creek.

(I have always to laugh at myself when I meet “action” photographers – I can barely get food to hold still for a good shot. Moving targets are usually way beyond my photography skillset.)

After finishing at Phelps Creek, we made the short drive back into town and grabbed a late lunch at The Trillium Cafe in downtown Hood River before stopping at our last tasting room – Stave & Stone.

Esthetically, Stave & Stone is the poshest of the three tasting rooms we visited, and the newest as well. The space itself is large and open, with lots of warm hues, subdued lighting, and naturally finished woods all lending a cozy feel. Besides the tasting bar, there are plenty of small gathering spots, too – comfy chairs, cozy booths, cafe tables, and a couch or two.

Our tasting room host was upbeat, friendly, and knowledgeable. As she poured our tastings, she enthusiastically shared a little of the history of this five generation winery with us – including the story of “The Old Man” – the last orchard apple tree standing on the family farm. The tree has been immortalized by local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized in an intricate metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

[This Gravenstein tree] symbolizes five generations of Fletchers, a touchstone of the legacy that began with apples and pears. The orchard has been transitioning into a vineyard for awhile now, but we’re keeping this ancient fellow. It is so old, it is nearly hollowed out inside, yet it still manages to produce blossoms and fruit every year. ~ Stave & Stone

Stave & Stone 3 - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Local artist Kelly Phipps immortalized the old family Gravenstein tree in a metal sculpture that now hangs on the tasting room wall.

There was still plenty of daylight left when we left Stave & Stone, so we drove back to the hotel and took a stroll around the grounds, first exploring the south side in the front of the hotel.

Gardens - Columbia River Gorge Getaway {Hood River, Oregon} | The Good Hearted Woman

Columbia Gorge Hotel – Hood River Oregon

The Columbia Gorge Hotel maintains seven acres of beautifully manicured gardens. Phelps Creek (for which the aforementioned winery is named) runs through the property, and natural water features dominate the landscape.

Ducks - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

I tried to get the ducks to pose for a picture, but they weren’t interested. 😉

On the river-side of the Columbia Gorge Hotel, you will find Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, where Phelps Creek flows and falls 207 feet into the Columbia. Once known as Lullaby Falls (apparently for the sleep-inducing properties that its soothing water sounds have on hotel guests) Wah Gwin Gwin now takes its name from a Chinook term meaning “rushing waters.”

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls, behind the Columbia Gorge Hotel – Hood River Oregon

Viewer - Columbia River Gorge Getaway - Hood River Oregon | The Good Hearted Woman

We love the views of the Columbia River from the rear of the hotel. * Hood River Oregon *

Most people on a romantic getaway like ours would probably choose to dine on a fancy dinner in the hotel’s posh restaurant, Simon’s Cliffhouse and Valentino Bar. However, Mr B and I have along-standing tradition of homemade Shepherd’s Pie on our Valentine’s getaway, no matter where we are. Sometimes it takes a little creativity to pull it off, but so far, we’ve always managed to make it happen. This year, our room had a nice refrigerator to keep things cold, but no microwave to warm it up. Our buddy Rick-the-Awesome-Hotel-Guy saved the day by heating it up for us.

The next morning, we packed up and hopped in the car to make our way back to Portland. Which brings me to this – the first time I’ve seen the Gorge in the daylight with my own eyes since “the fire.”

*** * * * ***

FEBRUARY 2018 – Columbia Gorge Recovery: Post Eagle Creek Fire [2017]

If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping you’ll stay with me, because I need to turn a corner and get serious for a moment. I was more than a little anxious about going to the Gorge at all this year. In fact, I’ve consciously avoided driving through it in the daylight ever since September 2, 2017, when a carelessly set wildfire took off and eventually burned 48,831 acres in the heart of the Gorge, changing its landscape for generations.

Columbia River Gorge - Eagle Creek Fire Images | The Good Hearted Woman

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

I wish I had taken some pictures while we were driving home that would illustrate the both the devastation and hope. Unfortunately, when Mr B and I were driving through, I was too busy crying to take any pictures. Many thanks to Staci W. [Crafty Staci] for sharing these images of the fire with us. They were taken on her phone from a moving sheriff’s car shortly after the fire started.

If you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest, you may not understand, but for many of us here, the Columbia River Gorge is far more than just the pretty place we keep our waterfalls. The Gorge is where we root our feet to the earth, and where we search our souls, and where we find our solace. When the Eagle Creek fire rushed through in the fall of 2017, it was as if someone had come in the dark of night and burned down our church. Our synagogue. Our mosque. Our sacred ground.

So, I’m here to report to my PNW brothers and sisters who have not yet visited: what I saw from the highway gave me hope. Now, I know that most of the burn can’t be seen from the road, and we really won’t get a good feel for the whole of the loss until much later, but I did see more trees than I expected still standing tall. The high ridges, particularly on the west end of the Gorge, are lined with blackened evergreen skeletons, but there is far more life happening on the slopes than I imagined, even in the middle of winter. I may not ever see the Gorge in its full majesty again in my lifetime, but my grandchildren might, and that gives me hope.

Image Credit: Staci W [Crafty Staci]

Businesses in the Gorge are waiting for people to return. They need us. If you are thinking of taking a getaway and you live in the Pacific Northwest, consider spending some time in the Gorge. It’s still there, waiting for you.

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Mother Nature is a master sculptor and in no place is that more evident than at Arches National Park.

1. Delicate Arch

2. Giant’s Grin

3. Three Gossips & Sheep Rock

4. Courthouse Tower

5. Balanced Rock

6. The Windows Section

7. Double Arch

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Stretching 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville Tennessee, the historic Natchez Trace Parkway takes travelers on a journey through history; from Native American burial mounds to Civil War sites to lush nature trails and sweeping vistas.

What is the Natchez Trace Parkway?

Mile 266.0 – Parkway Visitor Center and Headquarters

Mile 269.4 – Old Trace & Confederate Gravesites

Mile 275.2 – Dogwood Valley

Mile 278.4 – Twentymile Bottom Overlook

Mile 286.7 – Pharr Mounds

Mile 308.4 – Cave Spring

Mile 308.8 – Bear Creek Mound

Mile 308.9 – Alabama-Mississippi State Line

Mile 317.0 – Freedom Hills Overlook

Mile 320.3 – Buzzard Roost Spring

Learn more about the Natchez Trace

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Looking for a great day trip from Memphis? Check out our real-life itinerary for our day trip from Memphis, Tennessee to Tupelo, Mississippi and back again (including our ridiculously Hobbit-like meal schedule).

DAY TRIP: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

Tupelo Convention & Visitors Bureau

Downtown Tupelo

FairPark

Natchez Trace Parkway

DAY TRIP ITINERARY: Memphis to Tupelo {Roundtrip}

Short Version

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Ashland, Oregon: where culture runs deep, local cuisine is celebrated, creative inspiration is bountiful, and thespians are the coolest kids in town.

Stroll: Lithia Park

Rejuvenate [or maybe not]: Lithia Water

Discover: Downtown Ashland

Nosh: Greenleaf Restaurant

Flashy Photo-op: Guanajuato Mural

Fancy-Pants Eats: Larks

Out on the Town: Shakespeare & Beyond

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Take a drive on the Applegate Valley Wine Trail and experience the best of Southern Oregon wine country: stunning scenic beauty, small-town warmth, uncrowded tasting rooms, and artisan winemakers committed to their craft.

WOOLDRIDGE CREEK WINERY, CREAMERY & CHARCUTERIE

TROON VINEYARD

SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS

RED LILY VINEYARDS

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Old San Juan is replete with amazing history, old world charm, and delectable food and drink – and welcoming tourists with open arms.

Take a Self-Guided Walking Tour

Paseo de La Princesa Promenade

Raices Fountain (aka “Roots Fountain”)

Cathedral of San Juan Bautista

Parks, Plazas, Monuments & Fountains

Inside the Old City Wall

La Puerta de San Juan

San Felipe del Morro

Cats of San Juan

Barrachina: Birthplace of the Piña Coloda

All Aboard! 🚢

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Head Out. Stay In. Whatever you choose, you’ll discover your perfect Oregon coastal getaway at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City.

Headlands Coastal Lodge: Unpretentious Luxury & Oregon Hospitality

“Stay In”

Cackling Geese ~ Spirit of Headlands

“Head Out”

Tidepools Spa & Wellness Center

Meridian

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa

Visitors to Orenco Woods Nature Park can choose from wide variety of activities, including hiking, bicycling, geocaching, picnicking, and enjoying the native wildlife. (Oh, and hangin’ out with giant Twig People. Don’t about forget them.)

Malcolm McDonald House {Est. 1910}

Walking the Rock Creek Nature Trail

Woven Willow and Red Twig Dogwood Branch Sculptures

Visitor Information

Please leave a comment below! 🏞 What unique parks are in your neighborhood?

Every year, the National Basque Festival brings together Basque communities across North America to celebrate and share their heritage and culture.

Basque – a People, a Place & a Language

Basque Sheep Wagons

Nestled into the Columbia River Gorge against a stunning scenic backdrop, Hood River, Oregon offers visitors a perfect romantic getaway.

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FEBRUARY 2018 – Columbia Gorge Recovery: Post Eagle Creek Fire [2017]

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THANK YOU so much for being a faithful reader and supporter
of The Good Hearted Woman. 🌻 Be sure to PIN this post!

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